OLD   MACKINAW; 


OR, 


THE  FORTRESS  OF  THE  LAKES 


AND 


ITS   SURROUNDINGS. 


BY 

W.  P.  STRICKLAND. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

JAMES   CHALLKN   &   SON, 

NEW  YORK:    CARLTON    &    PORTEK.— CINCINNATI:    POE    &    HITCHCOCK. 

CHICAGO:  W.  H.  DOUGHTY.— DETROIT:   PUTNAM,  SMITH  &  CO. 

NASHVILLE:  J.  B.  McFERRIN. 

1860. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year,  1860,  by 
JAMES  CHALLEN  &  SON, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  in  and  for  the 
Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

STEREOTYPED  BY  S.  A.  GEORGE, 
607  SASSOM  STREET. 


PREFACE. 


IN  the  preparation  of  this  volume  a  large 
number  of  works  have  been  consulted,  among 
which  the  author  desires  to  acknowledge  his 
indebtedness  to  the  following :  "  The  Travels 
of  Baron  La  Hontan,"  published  in  English 
and  French,  1705;  "Relations  des  Jesuits," 
in  three  vols.,  octavo  ;  "Marquette's  Journal;  " 
Schoolcraft's  works,  in  three  volumes  ;  "  Shea's 
Catholic  Missions  and  Discovery  of  the  Missis 
sippi  ;"  "American  Annals;"  "Lanman's  His 
tory  of  Michigan;"  "Parkman's  Siege  of  Pon- 
tiac;"  "Annals  of  the  West;"  "Foster  and 
Whitney's  Geological  Report;"  "Ferris'  Great 
West;"  "DisturnelFs  Trip  to  the  Lakes;" 
"  Lanman's  Summer  in  the  Wilderness  ;"  "  Piet- 
zell's  Lights  arid  Shades  of  Missionary  Life ;" 

(3) 

214372 


4  Preface. 

"Life  of  Rev.  John  Clark;"  "Lectures  before 
the  Historical  Society  of  Michigan;"  "Mans 
field's  Mackinaw  City ;"  "Andrews'  Report  of 
Lake  Trade;"  "Heriot's  Canada ;"  "Presbyte 
rian  Missions,"  &c.,&c.  He  desires  particularly 
to  mention  the  works  of  Schoolcraft,  which  have 
thrown  more  light  on  Indian  history  than  the 
productions  of  any  other  author.  He  also 
desires  to  acknowledge  his  indebtedness  to 
Wm.  M.  Johnson,  Esq.,  of  Mackinac  Island, 
for  his  valuable  contributions  to  the  history  of 
that  interesting  locality.  The  statistics  in 
relation  to  that  portion  of  the  country  embraced 
in  the  work  are  taken  from  the  most  recent 
sources,  and  are  believed  to  be  perfectly  re 
liable." 

We  are  indebted  to  J.  W.  Bradley,  of  Phila 
delphia,  the  publisher  of  "  The  North  American 
Indians,"  for  the  beautiful  frontispiece  in  this 
work.  Mr.  Catlin,  the  author,  visited  every 
noted  tribe,  and,  by  residing  among  them,  was 
initiated  into  many  of  their  secret  and  hidden 
mysteries.  It  is  a  valuable  work. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I.  PAGE 

Mackinaw  ana  its  surroundings — Indian  legends — Hiawatna — Ottawas  and 
Ojibwas — Pau-pau-ke-wis — San-ge-man — Kau-be-man — An  Indian  custom 
— Dedication  to  the  spirits — Au-se-gum-ugs — Exploits  of  San-ge-inan — 
Point  St.  Ignatius— Magic  lance— Council  of  peace— Conquests  of  San-ge- 
man 9 

CHAPTER  II. 

Indian  spiritualists — Medicine  men — Legends — The  spirit-world — Difference 
between  Indian  and  modern  spiritualists — Chusco  the  spiritualist — School- 
craft's  testimony  of — Mode  of  communicating  with  spirits — Belief  in  Sa 
tanic  agency — Interesting  account  of  clairvoyance 19 

CHAPTER  III. 

Marquette's  visit  to  Iroquois  Point— Chapel  and  Fort— Old  Mackinaw— The 
French  settlement  in  the  Northwest — Erection  of  chapel  and  Fort — The 
gateway  of  commerce — The  rendezvous  of  traders,  trappers,  soldiers,  mis 
sionaries,  and  Indians — Description  of  fort — Courriers  des  Bois — Expedi 
tion  of  Marquette  and  Joliet  to  explore  the  Mississippi — Green  Bay — Fox 
River — Wisconsin — Mississippi — Peoria  Indians — Return  trip — Kaskaskia 
Indians — St.  Xavier  Missions — Mission  to  "the  Illinois"  —  Marquette's 
health  declines — Starts  out  on  return  trip  to  Mackinaw — Dies  and  is  bur 
ied  at  mouth  of  Marquette  River — Indians  remove  his  remains  to  Macki 
naw — Funeral  cortege — Ceremonies — Burial  in  the  chapel — Changes  of 
time — Schoolcraft  on  the  place  of  Marquette's  burial — Missilimackinac — 
Name  of  Jesuit  missions 39 

CHAPTER  IV. 

La  Salle's  visit  to  Mackinaw— English  traders— La  Hontan's  visit— Macki 
naw  an  English  fort — Speech  of  a  Chippewa  chief — Indian  stratagem — 
Massacre  of  the  English  at  the  fort — Escape  of  Mr.  Alexander  Henry — 
Early  white  settlement  of  Mackinaw — Present  description — Relations  of 
the  Jeimits — Remarkable  Phenomena — Parhelia— Subterranean  river 61 


(5) 


Contents. 


CHAPTER  V.  PAGE 

Islaud  of  the  giant  fairies— Possession  by  the  English— Erection  of  govern 
ment  house — French  remain  at  Old  Mackinaw — Finally  abandoned — Ex 
tent  of  the  island— History— Description— Natural  curiosities— Arch  Rock 
— Sugar  Loaf  Rock — Scull  Rock — Dousman's  farm — Davenport's  farm — 
Robinson's  folly  —  The  Devil's  Punch  Bowl  —  Healthful  atmosphere  — 
Transparency  of  the  waters— Compared  with  Saratoga,  Cape  May,  and 
Mt.  Washington  as  a  point  for  health  and  recreation — Description  of  a 
traveler  in  1854 — Arrival  of  steamers  and  sailing  vessels  at  the  port  during 
the  year — Mr.  Johnson's  reminiscences — Indian  name  of  island — Myth 
ology — Three  brothers  of  the  great  genii — Visit  to  the  subterranean  abode 
of  the  genii — Vision — Apostrophe  of  an  old  Indian  chief — Old  buildings — 
Door  of  Marquette's  chapel — John  Jacob  Astor  and  the  fur  trade — Present 
support  of  the  place — Fort  Mackinaw — Fort  Holmes — Fine  view — Interest 
ing  localities— War  of  1812— Death  of  Major  Holmes— Soil  of  the  island....  83 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Lake  Superior — Scenery — Transparency  of  its  waters — Climate — Isle  Royale 
— Apostles'  Islands — La  Point — Thunder  Cape — Cariboo  Point — A  won 
derful  lake — Romantic  scenery — Pictured  rocks — Rock  Castle — The  Grand 
Portal — The  chapel — Fluctuations  in  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior — Curi 
ous  phenomena — Retrocession  of  the  waters — Mirage — Iron  mountains 
and  mines — Description  of  —  Products — Shipments  —  Copper — Immense 
boulders — Produce  of  the  mines  for  1857 — Shipment  of  copper  from  the 
Lake  for  1858 — Centre  of  the  mining  country — Iron  mountains — Copper 
mines  of  Great  Britain — Coal — Mackinaw  a  great  manufacturing  point — 
Key  to  the  Upper  Lakes — Commerce  of  lakes — Growth  of  cities 105 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Lake  Huron— Eastern  shore  of  Michigan — Face  of  the  country — Picturesque 
view — Rivers — Grand — Saginaw — Cheboy-e-gun — Natural  scenery — Fort 
Gratiot— White  Rock— Saginaw  Bay— Thunder  Bay— Bois  Blanc  Island 
— Drummond's  Island — British  troops — St.  Helena  Island — Iroquois  Wo 
man's  Point— Point  La  Barbe— Point  aux  Sable— Point  St.  Vital— Wreck 
of  the  Queen  City — St.  Martin's  Island — Fox  Point — Moneto  pa-maw — 
Mille  au  Coquin — Great  fishing  places — Cross  village — Catholic  convent...  127 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Three  epochs — The  romantic — The  military — The  agricultural  and  commer 
cial — An  inviting  region — Jesuit  and  Protestant  Missions — First  Protest 
ant  mission — First  missionary — Islands  of  Mackinac  and  Green  Bay — La 
Pointe — Saut  St.  Mary — Presbyterians — Baptists — Methodists — Revival  at 
Fort  Brady — Ke-wee-naw  —  Fon  du  Lac — Shawnees  —  Pottawatimies — 
Eagle  River — Ontonagon — Camp  River — Iroquois  Point — Saginaw  Indians 
— Melancholy  reflections — Number  of  Indians  in  the  States  and  Terri 
tories ,„,.  143 


Contents.  7 

CHAPTER  IX.  PAGE 

Indian  name  of  Michigan— Islands— Lanman's  Summer  in  the  Wilderness 
— Plains — Trees — Rivers — A  traditionary  land — Beautiful  description — 
Official  report  in  relation  to  the  trade  of  the  lakes — Green  Bay — Grand 
Traverse  Bay — Beaver  Inlands  —  L'Arbre  Croche  —  Boundaries  of  Lake 
Michigan — Its  connections — Railroad  from  Fort  Wayne  to  Mackinaw — 
Recent  report  of — Amount  completed — Land  grants 159 

CHAPTER  X. 

Mackinaw,  the  site  for  a  great  central  city— The  Venice  of  the  lakes— Early 
importance  as  a  central  position — Nicolet — Compared  geographically  with 
other  points — Immense  chain  of  coast— Future  prospects — Temperature — 
Testimony  of  the  Jesuit  fathers — Healthfulness  of  the  climate — Dr.  Drake 
on  Mackinaw — Resort  for  invalids — Water  currents  of  commerce — Surface 
drained  by  them — Soil  of  the  northern  and  southern  peninsulas  of  Michi 
gan — Physical  resources — Present  proprietors  of  Mackinaw — Plan  of  the 
city — Streets — Avenues — Park — Lots  and  blocks  for  churches  and  public 
purposes — Institutions  of  learning  and  objects  of  benevolence — Fortifica 
tions — Docks  and  ferries — Materials  for  building — Harbors — Natural  beauty 
of  the  site  fora  city — Mountain  ranges — Interior  lakes — Fish — Game 173 

CHAPTER  XI. 

The  entrepot  of  a  vast  commerce — Surface  drained — Superiority  of  Macki 
naw  over  Chicago  as  a  commercial  point — Exports  and  imports — Michigan 
the  greatest  lumber-growing  region  in  the  world — Interminable  forests 
of  the  choicest  pine — Facilities  for  market — Annual  product  of  the  pineries 
— Lumbering,  mining,  and  fishing  interests — Independent  of  financial 
crises — Mackinaw  the  centre  of  a  great  railroad  system — Lines  terminating 
at  this  point — North  and  South  National  Line — Canada  grants — Growth 
of  Northwestern  cities — Future  growth  and  prosperity  of  Mackinaw — Chi 
cago — Legislative  provision  for  opening  roads  in  Michigan — The  Forty 
Acre  Homestead  Bill — Its  provisions 205 

CHAPTER  XII. 

The  Great  Western  Valley — Its  growth  and  population — Comparison  of  At 
lantic  with  interior  cities — Relative  growth  of  river  and  lake  cities — Cen 
tra  of  population — Lake  tonnage — Progress  of  the  principal  centres  of 
population 228 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Michigan  Agricultural  Reports  for  ]854 — Prof.  Thomas'  report — Report  of 
J.  S.  Dixon — Products  of  States — Climate — Army  Meteorological  Reports.  255 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Agricultural  interest — Means  of  transportation — Railways  and  vessels — 
Lumber — Vessels  cleared — Lake  cities  and  Atlantic  ports — Home-market 


8  Contents. 


PAGB 

— Breadstuffs — Michigan  flour — Monetary  panics — Wheat — Importations 
— Provisions — Fruit — Live  stock — Wool — Shipping  business — Railroads — 
Lake  Superior  trade — Pine  lumber  trade — Copper  interest — Iron  interest 
—Fisheries— Coalmines— Salt— Plaster  beds 272 

CHAPTER  XV. 

lesirableness  of  a  trip  to  the  Lakes— Routes  of  travel— Interesting  localities 
— Scenery — Southern  coast — Portage  Lake — Dr.  Hougliton — Ontonagon — 
Apostles'  Islands — Return  trip — Points  of  interest — St.  Mary's  River — 
Lake  St.  George — Point  de  Tour — Lake  Michigan — Points  of  interest — 
Chicago 39.5 


CHAPTER  I. 

Mackinaw  and  its  surroundings — Indian  legends — Hiawatha 
— Ottawas  and  Ojibwas  —  Paw-pau-ke-wis  —  Sau-ge-man — 
Kau-be-man — An  Indian  custom — Dedication  to  the  spirits — 
Au-se-gum-ugs— Exploits  of  Saii-ge-man — Point  St.  Igna 
tius — Magic  lance — Council  of  Peace — Conquests  of  San-ge- 
man. 

MACKINAW,  with  its  surroundings,  has  an  interest 
ing  and  romantic  history/ going  back  to  the  earliest 
times.  The  whole  region  of  the  Northwest,  with 
its  vast  wildernesses  and  mighty  lakes,  has  been 
traditionally  invested  with  a  mystery.  The  very 
name  of  Mackinaw,  in  the  Indian  tongue,  signifies 
the  dwelling-place  of  the  Great  Genii,  and  many  are 
the  legends  written  and  unwritten  connected  with  its 
history.  If  the  testimony  of  an  old  Indian  chief  at 
Thunder  Bay  can  be  credited,  it  was  at  old  Mack 
inaw  that  Mud-je-ke-wis,  the  father  of  Hiawatha, 
lived  and  died. 

Traditional  history  informs  us  that  away  back  in 

(9) 


io  Old  Mackinaw. 

a  remote  period  of  time,  the  Ottawas  and  the  Ojib- 
was  took  up  their  journey  from  the  Great  Salt 
Lake  towards  the  setting  sun.  These  tribes  were 
never  stationary,  but  were  constantly  roving  about. 
They  were  compared  by  the  neighboring  tribes  to 
Paw-pau-ke-wis,  a  name  given  by  the  Indians  to  the 
light-drifting  snow,  which  blows  over  the  frozen 
ground  in  the  month  of  March,  now  whirling  and 
eddying  into  gigantic  and  anon  into  diminutive 
drifts.  Paw-pau-ke-wis  signifies  running  away.  The 
name  was  given  to  a  noted  Indian  chief,  fully  equal 
in  bravery  and  daring  to  Hiawatha,  Plu-re-busta,  or 
Man-a-bosho. 

The  Ottawas  and  Ojibwas  dwelt  for  a  time  on  the 
Manitoulin  Island  in  Lake  Huron.  While  the 
tribes  dwelt  here,  two  distinguished  Indian  youths, 
by  the  name  of  San-ge-man  and  Kau-be-man,  re 
markable  for  their  sprightliness,  attracted  the  atten 
tion  of  their  particular  tribes.  Both  were  the  young 
est  children  of  their  respective  families.  It  was  the 
custom  of  the  Indians  to  send  their  boys,  when 
young,  to  some  retired  place  a  short  distance  from 
their  village,  where  they  were  to  fast  until  the  mani- 
toes  or  spirits  of  the  invisible  world  should  appear 
to  them.  Temporary  lodges  were  constructed  for 
their  accommodation.  Those  who  could  not  endure 


Old  Mackinaw.  11 

the  fast  enjoined  upon  them  by  the  Metais  or  Medi 
cine-men,  never  rose  to  any  eminence,  but  were  to 
remain  in  obscurity.  Comparatively  few  were  able 
to  bear  the  ordeal ;  but  to  all  who  waited  the  ap 
pointed  time,  and  endured  the  fast,  the  spiritual 
guardian  appeared  and  took  the  direction  and  con 
trol  of  their  subsequent  lives.  San-ge-man  in  his 
first  trial  fasted  seven  days,  and  on  the  next  he 
tasted  food,  having  been  reduced  to  extreme  debility 
by  his  long  abstinence,  during  which  his  mind  be 
came  exceedingly  elevated.  In  this  exaltation  his 
spiritual  guide  appeared  to  him.  He  was  the  spirit 
of  the  serpent  who  rules  in  the  centre  of  the  earth, 
and  under  the  dark  and  mighty  waters.  This  spirit 
revealed  to  him  his  future  destiny,  and  promised 
him  his  guardianship  through  life.  San-ge-man 
grew  up  and  became  remarkably  strong  and  power 
ful.  From  his  brave  and  reckless  daring  he  was 
both  an  object  of  love  and  fear  to  the  Ottawas. 

About  this  time,  as  the  legend  runs,  the  former 
inhabitants  of  the  Manitoulin  Island  and  the  ad 
joining  country,  who  have  the  name  of  the  Au-se- 
gum-a-ugs,  commenced  making  inroads  upon  the 
settlements  of  the  combined  bands,  and  killed 
several  of  their  number.  Upon  this  the  Ojibwas 
and  Ottawas  mustered  a  war  party.  San-ge-man, 


12  Old  Mackinaw. 

though  young,  offered  himself  as  a  warrior;  and, 
full  of  heroic  daring,  went  out  with  the  expedition 
which  left  the  Island  in  great  numbers  in  their 
canoes,  and  crossed  over  to  the  main  land  on  the 
northeast.  After  traveling  a  few  days  they  fell 
upon  the  war  path  of  their  enemies,  and  soon  sur 
prised  them.  Terrified,  they  fled  before  the  com 
bined  forces  ;  and  in  the  chase,  the  brave  and  daring 
youth  outstripped  all  the  rest  and  succeeded  in 
taking  a  prisoner  in  sight  of  the  enemies'  village. 
On  their  return  the  Ojibwas  and  Ottawas  were 
pursued,  and  being  apprised  of  it  by  San-ge-man, 
they  made  good  their  escape,  while  the  young  brave, 
being  instructed  by  his  guardian  spirit,  allowed 
himself  to  be  taken  prisoner.  His  hands  were  tied, 
and  he  was  made  to  walk  in  the  rnidst  of  the  war 
riors.  At  night  they  encamped,  and  after  partaking 
of  their  evening  meal,  commenced  their  Indian 
ceremonies  of  drumming  and  shaking  the  rattle,  ac 
companied  with  war  songs.  San-ge-man  was  asked 
by  the  chief  of  the  party,  if  he  could  che-qwon- 
dum,  at  the  same  time  giving  him  the  rattle.  He 
took  it  and  commenced  singing  in  a  low,  plaintive 
tone,  which  made  the  warriors  exclaim,  "He  is 
weak-hearted,  a  coward,  an  old  woman.  Feigning 
great  weakness  and  cowardice,  he  stepped  up  to  the 


Old  Mackinaw.  13 

Indian  to  whom  he  had  surrendered  his  war  club ; 
and  taking  it,  he  commenced  shaking  the  rattle, 
and  as  he  danced  round  the  watch-fire,  increasing 
his  speed,  and,  gradually  raising  the  tone  of  his 
voice,  he  ended  the  dance  by  felling  a  warrior  with 
his  club,  exclaiming,  "  a  coward,  ugh !"  Then  with 
terrific  yells  and  the  power  of  a  giant,  he  continued 
his  work  of  death  at  every  blow.  Affrighted,  the 
whole  party  fled  from  the  watch-fire  and  left  him 
alone  with  the  slain,  all  of  which  he  scalped,  and 
returned  laden  with  these  terrible  trophies  of  vic 
tory  to  join  his  companions  who  returned  to  the 
Island. 

San-ge-man  having  by  his  valor  obtained  a  chief 
tainship  over  the  Ottawas,  started  out  on  the  war 
path  and  conquered  all  the  country  east  and  north 
of  Lake  Huron.  The  drum  and  rattle  were  now 
heard  resounding  through  all  the  villages  of  the 
combined  forces,  and  they  extended  their  conquests 
to  Saut  St.  Mary.  For  the  purpose  of  bettering 
their  condition  they  removed  from  the  Island  to  the 
Detour,  or  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Mary's  river,  where 
they  occupied  a  deserted  village,  and  there  separated, 
part  going  up  to  the  Saut,  which  had  also  been  de 
serted,  and  the  other  portion  tarrying  in  the  above 
village  for  a  year. 
2 


14  Old  Mackinaw. 

At  the  expiration  of  this  time  San-ge-rnan  led  a 
war  party  towards  the  west,  and  reached  the  present 
point  St.  Ignatius,  on  the  north  side  of  the  straits 
where  he  found  a  large  village.  There  was  also  an 
other  village  a  little  east  of  Point  St.  Ignatius,  at 
a  place  now  called  Moran's  Bay,  and  still  another 
at  Point  Au  Chenes  on  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
Michigan,  northeast  of  the  Island  of  Mackinaw. 
At  these  places,  old  mounds,  ditches,  and  gardens 
were  found,  which  had  existed  from  an  unknown 
period.  From  this  point  a  trail  led  to  the  Saut 
through  an  open  country,  and  these  ancient  works 
can  be  distinctly  traced  to  this  day  though  covered 
with  a  heavy  growth  of  timber. 

After  a  hard  fight  with  the  inhabitants  of  these 
villages,  San-ge-man  at  length  succeeded  in  conquer 
ing  them,  and  after  expelling  them  burned  all  their 
lodges  with  the  exception  of  a  few  at  Point  St.  Ig 
natius.  The  inhabitants  of  this  village  fled  across 
the  straits  southward  from  Point  St.  Ignatius  and 
located  at  the  point  now  known  as  Old  Mackinaw, 
or  Mackinaw  City. 

In  the  mean  time,  San-ge-man  had  returned  to  the 
Detour  and  removed  his  entire  band  to  Point  St.  Ig 
natius.  In  the  following  spring  while  the  Ottawas 
were  out  in  their  fields  planting  corn,  a  party  of 


Old  Mackinaw.  15 

Au-se-gum-ugs  crossed  over  from  Old  Mackinaw,  on 
the  south  side  of  the  straits,  and  killed  two  of  the  Ot 
tawa  women.  San-ge-man  at  once  selected  a  party  of 
tried  warriors,  and  going  down  the  straits  pursued  the 
Au-se-gum-ugs  to  the  Eiver  Cheboy-e-gun,  whither 
they  had  gone  on  a  war  expedition  against  the  Mush- 
co-dan-she-ugs.  On  a  sandy  bay  a  little  west  of  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  they  found  their  enemies'  ca 
noes  drawn  up,  they  having  gone  into  the  interior. 
Believing  that  they  would  soon  return,  San-ge-man 
ordered  his  party  to  lie  in  ambush  until  their  return. 
They  were  not  long  in  waiting,  for  on  tb#  following 
day  they  made  their  appearance,  being  heated  and 
weary  with  their  marches,  they  all  stripped  and 
went  into  the  Lake  to  bathe  previous  to  embarking 
for  Mackinaw.  Unsuspicious  of  danger  they  played 
with  the  sportive  waves  as  they  dashed  upon  the 
shore,  and  were  swimming  and  diving  in  all  direc 
tions,  when  the  terrific  yell  of  armed  warriors  broke 
upon  their  ears.  It  was  but  the  work  of  a  moment 
and  one  hundred  defenseless  Indians  perished  in  the 
waters.  When  the  sad  intelligence  came  to  the  re 
mainder  of  the  tribe  at  Mackinaw,  they  fled  towards 
the  Grand  River  country. 

The  village  now  deserted  possessing  superior  at 
tractions  to  San-ge-man  and  his  warriors,  the  Otta- 


16  Old  Mackinaw. 

was  crossed  the  straits  and  took  possession,  and 
here  he  remained  until  after  he  unfairly  succeeded 
in  obtaining  the  magic  lance. 

It  was  while  here  that  a  large  delegation  of  In 
dians  of  the  Mush-co-dan-she-ugs  from  the  Middle 
village,  Bear  Kiver,  and  Grand  Traverse  came  to 
shake  hands  and  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace  with  him. 
They  had  heard  of  his  fame  as  a  mighty  warrior. 
The  occasion  was  one  of  great  rejoicing  to  the  inha 
bitants  of  Mackinaw,  and  all  turned  out  to  witness 
the  gathering.  San-ge-man  and  his  warriors  ap 
peared  in  council,  dressed  in  richest  furs,  their  heads 
decorated  with  eagle  feathers,  and  tufts  of  hair  of 
many  colors.  Among  all  the  chiefs  there  assembled, 
for  proud  and  noble  bearing  none  excelled  the  Otta 
wa.  A  fur  robe  covered  with  scalp-locks  hung 
carelessly  over  his  left  shoulder  leaving  his  right 
arm  free  while  speaking.  As  the  result  of  these 
deliberations  the  bands  became  united  and  thus 
the  territory  of  the  Ottawa  chief  was  enlarged. 

It  was  from  this  point  that  he  sallied  forth  every 
summer  in  war  excursions  toward  the  south,  con 
quering  the  country  along  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake 
Michigan,  extending  his  conquests  to  Grand  Eiver, 
and  overrunning  the  country  about  the  present  site 
of  Chicago.  It  was  here  that  he  received  reinforce- 


Old  Mackinaw.  17 

merits  from  his  old  allies  the  Ojibwas,  and  ex 
tended  his  conquests  down  the  Illinois  Eiver  until 
he  reached  the  "  father  of  waters." 

From  this  place  he  went  forth  to  the  slaughter  of 
the  Iroquois  at  the  Detour,  and  expelled  them 
from  the  Island  of  Mackinaw  and  Point  St.  Ignatius. 
From  hence  he  went  armed  to  wage  an  unnatural 
war  against  his  relatives  the  Ojibwas,  and  was  slain 
by  the  noble  chief  Kau-be-man,  and  it  was  to  this 
place  that  the  sad  news  came  back  of  his  fate.  Thus 
much  for  the  Indian  history  of  Old  Mackinaw. 

Equally  romantic  is  the  history  of  the  early  mis 
sionaries  and  voyagers  to  this  great  centre  of  the 
Indian  tribes.  On  the  far-off  shores  of  the  north 
western  lakes  the  Jesuit  Missionaries  planted  the 
cross,  erected  their  chapels,  repeated  their  pater  nosters 
and  ave  marias,  and  sung  their  Te  Deums,  before  the 
cavaliers  landed  at  Jamestown  or  the  Puritans  at 
Plymouth.  Among  the  Ottawas  of  Saut  St.  Marie 
and  the  Ojibwas  and  Hurons  of  Old  Mackinaw, 
these  devoted  self-sacrificing  followers  of  Ignatius 
Loyola  commenced  their  ministrations  upwards  of 
two  hundred  years  ago.  They  were  not  only  the 
first  missionaries  among  the  savages  of  this  north 
western  wilderness,  but  they  were  the  first  discov 
erers  and  explorers  of  the  mighty  lakes  and  rivers 
2* 


i8  Old  Mackinaw. 

of  that  region.  In  advance  of  civilization  they 
penetrated  the  dense  unbroken  wilderness,  and 
launched  their  canoes  upon  unknown  rivers,  break 
ing  the  silence  of  their  shores  with  their  vesper 
hymns  and  matin  prayers.  The  first  to  visit  the 
ancient  seats  of  heathenism  in  the  old  world,  they 
were  the  first  to  preach  the  Gospel  among  the  hea 
then  of  the  new. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Indian  Spiritualists — Medicine  men — Legends — The  Spirit- 
world — Difference  between  Indian  and  Modern  Spiritualists 
—  Chusco  the  Spiritualist — Schoolcraft's  testimony  of — Mode 
of  communicating  with  spirits — Belief  in  Satanic  agency — 
Interesting  account  of  Clairvoyance. 

THE  earliest  traditions  of  the  various  Indian 
tribes  inhabiting  this  country  prove  that  they  have 
practiced  jugglery  and  all  other  things  pertaining  to 
the  secret  arts  of  the  old  uncivilized  nations  of  the 
world.  Among  all  the  tribes  have  been  found  the 
priests  of  the  occult  sciences,  and  to  this  day  we 
find  Metais,  Waubonos,  Chees-a-kees  and  others 
bearing  the  common  designation  of  Medicine  men. 
In  modern  parlance  we  would  call  them  Professors 
of  Natural  Magic,  or  of  Magnetism,  or  Spiritualism. 
The  difference  however  between  these  Indian  pro 
fessors  of  magic  and  those  of  modern  date  is,  that 
while  the  latter  travel  round  the  country  exhibiting 
their  wonderful  performances  to  gaping  crowds,  at  a 

(19) 


2O  Old  Mackinaw. 

shilling  a  head,  the  former  generally  shrink  from 
notoriety,  and,  instead  of  being  anxious  to  display 
their  marvelous  feats,  have  only  been  constrained, 
after  urgent  entreaty  and  in  particular  cases,  to  exhi 
bit  their  powers.  The  Indian  magicians  have  shown 
more  conclusively  their  power  as  clairvoyants  and 
spiritualists,  than  all  the  rapping,  table-tipping  me 
diums  of  the  present  day. 

Numerous  interesting  and  beautiful  Indian  le 
gends  show  their  belief  in  a  spiritual  world — of  a 
shadowy  land  beyond  the  great  river.  Whether 
this  was  obtained  by  revelations  from  their  spiritual 
mediums,  or  derived  from  a  higher  source  of  inspi 
ration,  we  know  not ;  but  most  certain  it  is,  that  in 
no  belief  is  the  Indian  more  firmly  grounded  than 
that  of  a  spirit-world. 

The  Indian  Chees-a-kees  or  spiritualists  had  a 
different  and  far  more  satisfactory  mode  of  commu 
nicating  with  departed  spirits  than  ever  modern 
spiritualists  have  attained  to,  or  perhaps  ever  will. 
Forming,  as  they  did,  a  connecting  link  or  channel 
of  communication  between  this  world  and  the  world 
of  spirits,  they  did  not  affect  to  speak  what  the 
spirit  had  communicated ;  or,  perhaps,  to  state  it 
more  fully,  their  organs  of  speech  were  not  em 
ployed  by  the  spirits  to  communicate  revelations 


Old  Mackinaw.  21 

from  the  spirit  world ;  but  the  spirits  themselves 
spoke,  and  the  responses  to  inquiries  were  perfectly 
audible  to  them  and  to  all  present.  In  this  case  all 
possibility  of  collusion  was  out  of  the  question,  and 
the  inquirer  could  tell  by  the  tones  of  the  voice  as 
as  well  as  the  manner  of  the  communication,  whether 
the  response  was  genuine  or  not. 

Chusco,  a  noted  old  Indian  who  died  on  Bound 
Island  several  years  ago,  was  a  spiritualist.  He  was 
converted  through  the  labors  of  Protestant  Mis 
sionaries,  led  for  many  years  an  exemplary  Christian 
life,  and  was  a  communicant  in  the  Presbyterian 
Church  on  the  Island  up  to  the  time  of  his  death. 
Mr.  Schoolcraft  in  his  "  Personal  Memoirs,"  in  which 
he  gives  most  interesting  reminiscences,  running 
through  a  period  of  thirty  years  among  numerous 
Indian  tribes  of  the  northwest,  and  who  has  kindly 
consented  to  allow  us  to  make  what  extracts  we 
may  desire  from  his  many  interesting  works,  says 
that  "  Chusco  was  the  Ottawa  spiritualist,  and  up 
to  his  death  he  believed  that  he  had,  while  in  his 
heathen  state,  communication  with  spirits.  When 
ever  it  was  deemed  proper  to  obtain  this  communi 
cation,  a  pyramidal  lodge  was  constructed  of  poles, 
eight  in  number,  four  inches  in  diameter,  and  from 
twelve  to  sixteen  feet  in  height.  These  poles  were 


22  Old  Mackinaw. 

set  firmly  in  the  ground  to  the  depth  of  two  feet, 
the  earth  being  beaten  around  them.  The  poles 
being  securely  imbedded,  were  then  wound  tightly 
with,  three  rows  of  withes.  The  lodge  was  then 
covered  with  ap-puck-wois,  securely  lashed  on.  The 
structure  was  so  stoutly  and  compactly  built,  that 
four  strong  Indians  could  scarcely  move  it  by  their 
mightiest  efforts.  The  lodge  being  ready,  the  spir 
itualist  was  taken  and  covered  all  over,  with  the 
exception  of  his  head,  with  a  canoe  sail  which  was 
lashed  with  bois-blanc  cords  and  knotted.  This 
being  done,  his  feet  and  hands  were  secured  in  a 
like  firm  manner,  causing  him  to  resemble  a  bundle 
more  than  anything  else.  He  would  then  request 
the  bystanders  to  place  him  in  the  lodge.  In  a  few 
minutes  after  entering,  the  lodge  wrould  commence 
swaying  to  and  fro,  with  a  tremulous  motion,  accom 
panied  with  the  sound  of  a  drum  and  rattle.  The 
spiritualist  then  commenced  chanting  in  a  low,  mel 
ancholy  tone,  gradually  raising  his  voice,  while  the 
lodge,  as  if  keeping  time  with  his  chant,  vibrated 
to  and  fro  with  greater  violence,  and  seemed  at 
times  as  if  the  force  would  tear  it  to  pieces. 

In  the  midst  of  this  shaking  and  singing,  the  sail 
and  the  cords,  with  which  the  spiritualist  was 
bound,  would  be  seen  to  fly  out  of  the  top  of  the 


Old  Mackinaw.  23 

lodge  with  great  violence.  A  silence  would  then 
ensue  for  a  short  time,  the  lodge  still  continuing  its 
tremulous  vibrations.  Soon  a  rustling  sound  would 
be  heard  at  the  top  of  the  lodge  indicating  the 
presence  of  the  spirit.  The  person  or  persons  at 
whose  instance  the  medium  of  the  spiritualist  was 
invoked,  would  then  propose  the  question  or  ques 
tions  they  had  to  ask  of  the  departed. 

An  Indian  spiritualist,  residing  at  Little  Traverse 
Bay,  was  once  requested  to  enter  a  lodge  for  the 
purpose  of  affording  a  neighboring  Indian  an  op 
portunity  to  converse  with  a  departed  spirit  about 
his  child  who  was  then  very  sick.  The  sound  of  a 
voice,  unfamiliar  to  the  persons  assembled,  was 
heard  at  the  top  of  the  lodge,  accompanied  by  sing 
ing.  The  Indian,  who  recognized  the  voice,  asked 
if  his  child  would  die.  The  reply  was,  "  It  will  die 
the  day  after  to-morrow.  You  are  treated  just  as 
you  treated  a  person  a  few  years  ago.  Do  you  wish 
the  matter  revealed."  The  inquirer  immediately  drop 
ped  his  head  and  asked  no  further  questions.  His 
child  died  at  the  time  the  spirit  stated,  and  reports, 
years  after,  hinted  that  it  had  been  poisoned,  as  the 
father  of  the  deceased  child  had  poisoned  a  young 
squaw,  and  that  it  was  this  same  person  who  made 
the  responses. 


24  Old  Mackinaw. 

Old  Chusco,  after  he  became  a  Christian,  could 
not,  according  to  the  testimony  of  Schoolcraft,  be 
made  to  waver  in  his  belief,  that  he  was  visited  by 
spirits  in  the  exhibitions  connected  with  the  tight- 
wound  pyramidal,  oracular  lodge;  but  he  believed 
they  were  evil  spirits.  No  cross-questioning  could 
bring  out  any  other  testimony.  He  avowed  that,  aside 
from  his  incantations,  he  had  no  part  in  the  shaking 
of  the  lodge,  never  touching  the  poles  at  any  time, 
and  that  the  drumming,  rattling,  singing,  and  re 
sponses  were  all  produced  by  these  spirits. 

The  following  account  of  Chusco,  or  Wau-chus-co, 
from  the  pen  of  "William  M.  Johnson,  Esq.,  of  Macki 
naw  Island,  will  be  found  to  be  deeply  interesting : 

"  WAU-CHUS-CO  was  a  noted  Indian  spiritualist 
and  Clairvoyant,  and  was  born  near  the  head  of 
Lake  Michigan — the  year  not  known.  He  was  eight 
or  ten  years  old,  he  informed  me,  when  the  English 
garrison  was  massacred  at  Old  Fort  Missilimacki- 
nac.  He  died  on  Bound  Island,  opposite  the  vil 
lage  and  island  of  Mackinaw,  at  an  advanced  age. 

"  As  lie  grew  up  from  childhood,  he  found  that 
he  was  an  orphan,  and  lived  with  his  uncle,  but 
under  the  care  of  his  grandmother.  Upon  attain 
ing  the  age  of  fifteen  his  grandmother  and  uncle 


Old  Mackinaw.  25 

urged  him  to  comply  with  the  ancient  custom  of 
their  people,  which  was  to  fast,  and  wait  for  the  ma 
nifestations  of  the  Gitchey-monedo, — whether  he 
would  grant  him  a  guardian  spirit  or  not,  to  guide 
and  direct  him  through  life.  He  was  told  that 
many  young  men  of  his  tribe  tried  to  fast,  but  that 
hunger  overpowered  their  wishes  to  obtain  a 
spiritual  guardian ;  he  was  urged  to  do  his  best,  and 
not  to  yield  as  others  had  done. 

"  Wau-chus-co  died  in  1839  or  '40.  He  had,  for 
more  than  ten  years  previous  to  his  death,  led  an 
exemplary  Christian  life,  and  was  a  communicant  of 
the  Presbyterian  Church  on  this  Island,  up  to  the 
time  of  his  death.  A  few  days  previous  to  his 
death,  I  paid  him  a  visit.  '  Come  in,  come  in,  no- 
sis  !"  (grandson)  said  he.  After  being  seated,  and  we 
had  lit  our  pipes ;  I  said  to  him,  '  Ne-me-sho-miss, 
(my  grandfather,)  you  are  now  very  old  and  feeble ; 
you  cannot  expect  to  live  many  days ;  now,  tell  me 
the  truth,  who  was  it  that  moved  your  chees-a-kee 
lodge  when  you  practiced  your  spiritual  art?'  A 
pause  ensued  before  he  answered: — 'Nosis,  as  you 
are  in  part  of  my  nation,  I  will  tell  you  the  truth: 
I  know  that  I  will  die  soon.  I  fasted  ten  days  when 
I  was  a  young  man,  in  compliance  with  the  custom 
of  my  tribe.  While  my  body  was  feeble  from  long 
3 


26  Old  Mackinaw. 

fasting,  my  soul  increased  in  its  powers ;  it  appeared 
to  embrace  a  vast  extent  of  space,  and  the  country 
within  this  space,  was  brought  plainly  before  my 
vision,  with  its  misty  forms  and  beings — I  speak  of 
my  spiritual  vision.  It  was,  while  I  was  thus  lying 
in  a  trance,  my  soul  wandering  in  space,  that  ani 
mals,  some  of  frightful  size  and  form,  serpents  of 
monstrous  size,  and  birds  of  different  varieties  and 
plumage,  appeared  to  me  and  addressed  me  in  hu 
man  language,  proposing  to  act  as  my  guardian 
spirits.  While  my  mind  embraced  these  various 
moving  forms,  a  superior  intelligence  in  the  form  of 
man,  surrounded  by  a  wild,  brilliant  light,  influ 
enced  my  soul  to  select  one  of  the  bird-spirits,  re 
sembling  the  kite  in  look  and  form,  to  be  the 
emblem  of  my  guardian  spirit,  upon  whose  aid  I 
was  to  call  in  time  of  need,  and  that  he  would 
be  always  prepared  to  render  me  assistance  when 
ever  my  body  and  soul  should  be  prepared  to  receive 
manifestations.  My  grandmother  roused  me  to  earth 
again,  by  inquiring  if  I  needed  food  :  I  ate,  and 
with  feeble  steps,  soon  returned  to  our  lodge. 

" '  The  first  time  that  I  ever  chees-a-keed,  was  on 
a  war  expedition  toward  Chicago,  or  where  it  is  now 
located — upon  an  urgent  occasion.  We  were  afraid 
that  our  foes  would  attack  us  unawares,  and  as  we 


Old  Mackinaw.  27 

were  also  short  of  provisions,  our  chief  urged  me 
incessantly,  until  I  consented.  After  preparing  my 
soul  and  body,  by  fasting  on  bitter  herbs,  &c.,  I  en 
tered  the  Chees-a-kee  lodge,  which  had  been  pre 
pared  for  me : — the  presence  of  my  guardian  spirit 
was  soon  indicated  by  a  violent  swaying  of  the  lodge 
to  and  fro.  "  Tell  us  !  tell  us  !  where  our  enemies 
are  ?"  cried  out  the  chief  and  warriors.  Soon,  the 
vision  of  my  soul  embraced  a  large  extent  of  coun 
try,  which  I  had  never  before  seen — every  object 
was  plainly  before  me — our  enemies  were  in  their 
villages,  unsuspicious  of  danger;  their  movements 
and  acts  I  could  plainly  see ;  and  mentally  or  spirit 
ually,  I  could  hear  their  conversation.  Game 
abounded  in  another  direction.  Next  day  we  pro 
cured  provisions,  and  a  few  days  afterward  a  dozen 
scalps  graced  our  triumphant  return  to  the  village 
of  the  Cross.  I  exerted  my  powers  again  frequently 
among  my  tribe,  and,  to  satisfy  them,  I  permitted 
them  to  tie  my  feet  and  hands,  and  lash  me  round 
with  ropes,  as  they  thought  proper.  They  would 
then  place  me  in  the  Chees-a-kee  lodge,  which  would 
immediately  commence  shaking  and  swaying  to  and 
for,  indicating  the  presence  of  my  guardian  spirit: 
frequently  I  saw  a  bright,  luminous  light  at  the  top 
of  the  lodge,  and  the  words  of  the  spirit  would  be 


28  Old  Mackinaw. 

audible  to  the  spectators  outside,  who  could  not  un 
derstand  what  was  said ;  while  mentally,  I  under 
stood  the  words  and  language  spoken. 

"  '  In  the  year  1815,  the  American  garrison  at 
this  post  expected  a  vessel  from  Detroit,  with  sup 
plies  for  the  winter — a  month  had  elapsed  beyond 
the  time  for  her  arrival,  and  apprehensions  of  star 
vation  were  entertained  ;  finally,  a  call  was  made  to 
me  by  the  commanding  officer,  through  the  traders. 
After  due  preparation  I  consented ;  the  Chees-a-kee 
lodge  was  surrounded  by  Indians  and  whites ;  I  had 
no  sooner  commenced  shaking  my  rattle  and  chant 
ing,  than  the  spirits  arrived  ;  the  rustling  noise  they 
made  through  the  air,  was  heard,  and  the  sound  of 
their  voices  was  audible  to  all. 

" '  The  spirits  directed  my  mind  toward  the  south 
ern  end  of  Lake  Huron — it  lay  before  me  with  its 
bays  and  islands;  the  atmosphere  looked  hazy,  re 
sembling  our  Indian  Summer ;  my  vision  terminated 
a  little  below  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Clair  River — 
there  lay  the  vessel,  disabled !  the  sailors  were  busy 
in  repairing  spars  and  sails.  My  soul  knew  that 
they  would  be  ready  in  two  days,  and  that  in  seven 
days  she  would  reach  this  Island,  (Mackinaw,)  by  the 
south  channel,  [at  that  time  an  unusual  route,]  and 
I  so  revealed  it  to  the  inquirers.  On  the  day  I  men- 


Old  Mackinaw.  29 

tioned  the  schooner  hove  in  sight,  by  the  south  chan 
nel.  The  captain  of  the  vessel  corroborated  all  I 
had  stated. 

"  '  I  am  now  a  praying  Indian  (Christian).  I  ex 
pect  soon  to  die,  Nosis.  This  is  the  truth :  I  pos 
sessed  a  power,  or  a  power  possessed  me,  which  I 
cannot  explain  or  fully  describe  to  you.  I  never 
attempted  to  move  the  lodge  by  my  own  physical 
powers — I  held  communion  with  supernatual  beings 
or  souls,  who  acted  upon  my  soul  or  mind,  reveal 
ing  to  me  the  knowledge  which  I  have  related  to 
you.' 

"  The  foregoing  merely  gives  a  few  acts  of  the 
power  exhibited  by  this  remarkable,  half-civilized 
Indian.  I  could  enumerate  many  instances  in  which 
this  power  has  been  exhibited  among  our  Indians. 
These  Chees-a-kees  had  the  power  of  influencing 
the  mind  of  an  Indian  at  a  distance  for  good  or 
evil,  even  to  the  deprivation  of  life  among  them : 
so  also  in  cases  of  rivalship,  as  hunters  or  warriors. 
This  influence  has  even  extended  to  things  mate 
rial,  while  in  the  hands  of  those  influenced.  The 
soul  or  mind — perhaps  nervous  system  of  the  indi 
vidual,  being  powerfully  acted  upon  by  a  spiritual 
battery,  greater  than  the  one  possessed  more  or  less 
by  all  human  beings." 


30  Old  Mackinaw. 

In  Schoolcraft's  "American  Indians"  an  interest 
ing  account  is  given  of  a  woman-spiritualist,  who 
bore  the  name  of  the  "  Prophetess  of  Che-moi-che- 
goi-me-gou."  Among  the  Indians  she  was  called 
"  The  woman  of  the  blue-robed  cloud."  The  account 
was  given  by  herself  after  she  had  become  a  member 
of  the  Methodist  Church  and  renounced  all  con 
nection  with  spirits.  The  following  is  her  narra 
tive  : — 

* 

"When  I  was  a  girl  of  about  twelve  or  thirteen 
years  of  age,  my  mother  told  me  to  look  out  for 
something  that  would  happen  to  me.  Accordingly, 
one  morning  early,  in  the  middle  of  winter,  I  found 
an  unusual  sign,  and  ran  off,  as  far  from  the  lodge  as 
I  could,  and  remained  there  until  my  mother  came 
and  found  me  out.  She  knew  what  was  the  matter, 
and  brought  me  nearer  to  the  family  lodge,  and  bade 
me  help  her  in  making  a  small  lodge  of  branches  of  . 
the  spruce  tree.  She  told  me  to  remain  there,  and 
keep  away  from  every  one,  and  as  a  diversion,  to 
keep  myself  employed  in  chopping  wood,  and  that 
she  would  bring  me  plenty  of  prepared  bass-wood 
bark  to  twist  into  twine.  She  told  me  she  would 
come  to  see  me,  in  two  days,  and  that  in  the  mean 
ti  no  T  mast  not  even  taste  snow. 


Old  Mackinaw.  31 

"I  did  as  directed;- at  the  end  of  two  days  she 
came  to  see  me.  I  thought  she  would  surely  bring 
me  something  to  eat,  but  to  my  disappointment  she 
brought  nothing.  I  suffered  more  from  thirst  than 
hunger,  though  I  felt  rny  stomach  gnawing.  My  mo 
ther  sat  quietly  down  and  said  (after  ascertaining 
that  I  had  not  tasted  anything),  '  My  child,  3^011  are 
the  youngest  of  your  sisters,  and  none  are  now  left 
me  of  all  my  sons  and  children,  but  you.  four'  (allud 
ing  to  her  two  elder  sisters,  herself  and  a  little  son, 
still  a  mere  lad).  '  AVho,'  she  continued,  '  will  take 
care  of  us  poor  women  ?  Now,  my  daughter,  listen 
to  me,  and  try  to  obey.  Blacken  your  face  and  fast 
really,  that  the  Master  of  Life  may  have  pity  on  you 
and  me,  and  on  us  all.  Do  not,  in  the  least,  deviate 
from  my  counsels,  and  in  two.  days  more,  I  will  come 
to  you.  He  will  help  you,  if  you  are  determined  to 
do  what  is  right,  and  tell  me,  whether  you  are 
favored  or  not,  by  the  true  Great  Spirit ;  and  if  your 
visions  are  not  good,  reject  them.'  So  saying,  she 
departed. 

"  I  took  my  little  hatchet  and  cut  plenty  of  wood, 
and  twisted  the  cord  that  was  to  be  used  in  sewing 
ap-puk-way-oon-un,  or  mats  for  the  use  of  the  family. 
Gradually  I  began  to  feel  less  appetite,  but  my  thirst 
continued ;  still  I  was  fearful  of  touching  the  snow 


32  Old    Mackinaw. 

to  allay  it,  by  sucking  it,  as  my  mother  had  told  me 
that  if  I  did  so,  though  secretly,  the  Great  Spirit 
would  see  me,  and  the  lesser  spirits  also,  and  that 
my  fasting  would  be  of  no  use.  So  I  continued  to 
fast  till  the  fourth  day,  when  my  mother  came  with 
a  little  tin  dish,  and  filling  it  with  snow,  she  came 
to  my  lodge,  and  was  well  pleased  to  find  that  I 
had  followed  her  injunctions.  She  melted  the  snow, 
and  told  me  to  drink  it.  I  did  so,  and  felt  refreshed, 
but  had  a  desire  for  more,  which  she  told  me  would 
not  do,  and  I  contented  myself  with  what  she  had 
given  me.  She  again  told  me  to  get  and  follow  a 
good  vision — a  vision  that  might  not  only  do  us 
good,  but  also  benefit  mankind,  if  I  could.  She 
then  left  me,  and  for  two  days  she  did  not  come 
aear  rne,  nor  any  human  being,  and  I  was  left  to  my 
own  reflections.  The  night  of  the  sixth  day,  I  fan 
cied  a  voice  called  to  me,  and  said :  '  Poor  child !  I 
pity  your  condition ;  come,  you  are  invited  this 
way ;'  and  I  thought  the  voice  proceeded  from  a  cer 
tain  distance  from  my  lodge.  I  obeyed  the  sum 
mons,  and  going  to  the  spot  from  which  the  voice 
came,  found  a  thin,  shining  path,  like  a  silver  cord, 
which  I  followed.  It  led  straight  forward,  and,  it 
seemed,  upward.  After  going  a  short  distance  I 
stood  still  and  saw  on  my  right  hand  the  new  moon, 


Old    Mackinaw.  33 

with  a  flame  rising  from  the  top  like  a  candle,  which 
threw  around  a  broad  light.  On  the  left  appeared 
the  sun,  near  the  point  of  its  setting.  I  went  on, 
and  I  beheld  on  my  right  the  face  of  Kau-ge-gag-be- 
qua,  or  the  everlasting  woman,  who  told  me  her 
name,  and  said  to  me,  '  I  give  you  my  name,  and 
you  may  give  it  to  another.  I  also  give  you  that 
which  I  have,  life  everlasting.  I  give  you  long  life 
on  the  earth,  and  skill  in  saving  life  in  others.  Go, 
you  are  called  on  high.' 

"  I  went  on,  and  saw  a  man  standing  with  a  large, 
circular  body,  and  rays  from  his  head,  like  horns. 
He  said,  '  Fear  not,  my  name  is  Monedo  Wininees, 
or  the  Little  man  Spirit.  I  give  this  name  to  your 
first  son.  It  is  my  life.  Go  to  the  place  you  are 
called  to  visit.'  I  followed  the  path  till  I  could  see 
that  it  led  up  to  an  opening  in  the  sky,  when  I 
heard  a  voice,  and  standing  still,  saw  the  figure  of  a 
man  standing  near  the  path,  whose  head  was  sur 
rounded  with  a  brilliant  halo,  and  his  breast  was 
covered  with  squares.  He  said  to  me :  '  Look  at 
me,  my  name  is  0-shau-wau-e-geeghick,  or  the  Bright 
Blue  Sky.  I  am  the  veil  that  covers  the  opening 
into  the  sky.  Stand  and  listen  to  me.  Do  not  be 
afraid.  I  am  going  to  endow  you  with  gifts  of  life, 
and  put  you  in  array  that  you  may  withstand  and 


34  Old  Mackinaw. 

endure.  Immediately  I  saw  myself  encircled  with 
bright  points  which,  rested  against  me  like  needles, 
but  gave  me  no  pain;  and  they  fell  at  my  feet.  This 
was  repeated  several  times,  and  at  each  time  they 
fell  to  the  ground.  Pie  said,  '  wait  and  do  not  fear, 
till  I  have  said  and  done  all  I  am  about  to  do.'  I 
then  felt  different  instruments,  first  like  awls,  and 
then  like  nails  stuck  into  my  flesh,  but  neither  did 
they  give  me  pain,  but,  like  the  needles,  fell  at  my 
feet  as  often  as  they  appeared.  He  then  said,  '  that 
is  good,'  meaning  my  trial  by  these  points.  '  You 
will  see  length  of  days.  Advance  a  little  further,' 
said  he.  I  did  so,  and  stood  at  the  commencement 
of  the  opening.  '  You  have  arrived,'  said  he,  '  at 
the  limit  you  cannot  pass.  I  give  you  my  name, 
you  can  give  it  to  another.  Now,  return!  Look 
around  you.  There  is  a  conveyance  for  you.  Do  not 
be  afraid  to  get  on  its  back,  and  when  you  get  to 
your  lodge,  you  must  take  that  which  sustains  the 
human  body.'  I  turned,  and  saw  a  kind  of  fish 
swimming  in  the  air,  and  getting  upon  it  as  directed, 
was  carried  back  with  celerity,  my  hair  floating  be 
hind  me  in  the  air.  And  as  soon  as  I  got  back,  my 
vision  ceased. 

"  In  the  morning,  being  the  sixth  day  of  my  fast, 
my  mother   came  with  a   little  bit   of  dried  trout. 


Old  Mackinaw.  35* 

But  such  was  my  sensitiveness  to  all  sounds,  and  my 
increased  power  of  scent,  produced  by  fasting,  that 
before  she  came  in  sight  I  heard  her,  while. a  great 
way  off,  and  when  she  came  in,  I  could  not  bear  the 
smell  of  the  fish  or  herself  either.  She  said,  '  I  have 
brought  something  for  you  to  eat,  only  a  mouthful, 
to  prevent  your  dying.'  She  prepared  to  cook  it, 
but  I  said,  '  Mother,  forbear,  I  do  not  wish  to  eat  it 
—the  smell  is  offensive  to  me.'  She  accordingly  left 
off  preparing  to  cook  the  fish,  and  again  encouraged 
me  to  persevere,  and  try  to  become  a  comfort  to 
her  in  her  old  age,  and  bereaved  state,  and  left  me. 

"  I  attempted  to  cut  wood,  as  usual,  but  in  the 
effort  I  fell  back  on  the  snow,  from  weariness,  and 
lay  some  time ;  at  last  I  made  an  effort  and  rose, 
and  went  to  my  lodge  and  lay  down.  I  again  saw 
the  vision,  and  each  person  who  had  before  spoken 
to  me,  and  heard  the  promises  of  different  kinds 
made  to  me,  and  the  songs.  I  went  the  same  path 
which  I  had  pursued  before,  and  met  with  the  same 
reception.  I  also  had  another  vision,  or  celestial 
visit,  which  I  shall  presently  relate.  My  mother 
came  again  on  the  seventh  day,  and  brough  me  some 
pounded  corn  boiled  in  snow-water,  for  she  said  I 
must  not  drink  water  from  lake  or  river.  After 
taking  it,  I  related  my  vision  to  -  her.  She  said  it 


36  Old  Mackinaw. 

was  good,  and  spoke  to  me  to  continue  my  fast  three 
days  longer.  I  did  so  ;  at  the  end  of  which  she  took 
me  home,  and  made  a  feast  in  honor  of  my  success, 
and  invited  a  great  many  guests.  I  was  told  to  eat 
sparingly,  and  to  take  nothing  too  hearty  or  sub 
stantial;  but  this  was  unnecessary,  for  my  absti 
nence  had  made  my  senses  so  acute,  that  all  animal 
food  had  a  gross  and  disagreeable  odor. 

"  After  the  seventh  day  of  my  fast  (she  con 
tinued),  while  I  was  lying  in  my  lodge,  I  saw  a  dark, 
round  object  descending  from  the  sky  like  a  round 
stone,  and  enter  my  lodge.  As  it  came  near,  I  saw 
that  it  had  small  feet  and  hands  like  a  human  body. 
It  spoke  to  me  and  said,  '  I  give  you  the  gift  of  see 
ing  into  futurity,  that  you  may  use  it  for  the  benefit 
of  yourself  and  the  Indians — your  relations  and 
tribes-people.'  It  then  departed,  but  as  it  went 
away,  it  assumed  wings,  and  looked  to  me  like  the 
red-headed  woodpecker. 

"In  consequence  of  being  thus  favored,  I  assumed 
the  arts  of  a  medicine- woman  and  a  prophetess : 
but  never  those  of  a  Wabeno.  The  first  time  I 
exercised  the  prophetical  art,  was  at  the  strong  and 
repeated  solicitations  of  my  friends.  It  was  in  the 
winter  season,  and  they  were  then  encamped  west 
of  the  Wisacoda,  or  Brule  Kiver,  of  Lake  Superior, 


Old  Mackinaw.  37 

and  between  it  and  the  plains  west.  There  were, 
beside  my  mother's  family  and  relatives,  a  consider 
able  number  of  families.  They  had  been  some 
time  at  the  place,  and  were  near  starving,  as  they 
could  find  no  game.  One  evening  the  chief  of  the 
party  came  into  my  mother's  lodge.  I  had  lain 
down,  and  was  supposed  to  be  asleep,  and  he  re 
quested  of  my  mother  that  she  would  allow  me  to 
try  my  skill  to  relieve  them.  My  mother  spoke  to 
me,  and  after  some  conversation,  she  gave  her  con 
sent.  I  told  them  to  build  the  Jee-suk-aun,  or  pro 
phet's  lodge  strong,  and  gave  particular  directions 
for  it.  I  directed  that  it  should  consist  of  ten  posts 
or  saplings,  each  of  a  different  kind  of  wood,  which 
T  named.  When  it  was  finished,  and  tightly  wound 
with  skins,  the  entire  population  of  the  encamp 
ment  assembled  around  it,  and  I  went  in,  taking 
only  a  small  drum.  I  immediately  knelt  down,  and 
holding  my  head  near  the  ground,  in  a  position  as 
near  as  may  be  prostrate,  began  beating  my  drum, 
and  reciting  my  songs  or  incantations.  The  lodge 
commenced  shaking  violently,  by  supernatural 
means.  I  knew  this  by  the  compressed  current  of 
air  above,  and  the  noise  of  motion.  This  being  re 
garded  by  me,  and  by  all  without,  as  a  proof  of  the 
presence  of  the  spirits  I  consulted,  I  ceased  beat- 


38  Old  Mackinaw. 

ing  and  singing,  and  lay  still,  waiting  for  questions 
in  the  position  I  at  first  assumed. 

"  The  first  question  put  to  me  was  in  relation  to  the 
game,  and  where  it  was  to  be  found.  The  response 
was  given  by  the  orbicular  spirit,  who  had  appeared 
to  me.  He  said,  '  How  short-sighted  you  are  !  If 
you  will  go  in  a  west  direction,  you  will  find  game 
in  abundance.'  Next  day  the  camp  was  broken  up, 
and  they  all  moved  westward,  the  hunters,  as  usual, 
going  far  ahead.  They  had  not  proceeded  far  be 
yond  the  bounds  of  their  former  hunting  circle,  when 
they  came  upon  tracks  of  moose,  and  that  day  they 
killed  a  female  and  two  young  moose,  nearly  full- 
grown.  They  pitched  their  encampment  anew,  and 
had  abundance  of  animal  food  in  this  new  position. 

"  My  reputation  was  established  by  this  success, 
and  I  was  afterward  noted  in  the  tribe,  in  the  art  of 
a  medicine-woman,  and  sung  the  songs  which  I  have 
given  to  you." 


CHAPTER  III 

Marquette's  visit  to  Iroquois  Point— Chapel  and  Fort — Old 
Mackinaw — The  French  Settlement  in  the  Northwest — Erec 
tion  of  Chapel  and  Fort — The  Gateway  of  Commerce  -The 
Rendezvous  of  Traders,  Trappers,  Soldiers,  Missionaries, 
and  Indians — Description  of  Fort — Courriers  des  Bois — 
Expedition  of  Marquette  and  Joliet  to  Explore  the  Missis 
sippi —  Green  Bay  —  Fox  River — Wisconsin  —  Mississippi — 
Peoria  Indians — Return  Trip  — Kaskaskia  Indians — St.  Xa- 
vier  Missions  —  Mission  to  "the  Illinois"  —  Marquette's 
Health  declines — Starts  out  on  Return  trip  to  Mackinaw — 
Dies  and  is  Buried  at  mouth  of  Marquette  River— Indians 
remove  his  Remains  to  Mackinaw — Funeral  Cortege  — Cere 
monies — Burial  in  the  Chapel — Changes  of  time  — School- 
craft  on  the  Place  of  Marquette's  Burial — Missilimackinac 
— Name  of  Jesuit  Missions. 

Ix  the  year  1670,  the  devoted  and  self-sacrificing 
missionary,  Jean  Marquette,  with  a  company  of 
Indians  of  the  Huron  tribe,  subsequently  known 
as  the  Wyandots  from  the  Georgian  Bay,  on  the 
northeastern  extremity  of  Lake  Huron,  entered  for 
the  first  time  the  old  Indian  town  on  the  northern 

(39) 


4-O  Old  Mackinaw. 

side  of  the  Mackinaw  Straits.  During  trie  time 
he  was  planting  his  colony,  and  erecting  his 
chapel  at  Iroquois  Point,  which  he  afterward  de 
signated  St.  Ignace,  he  resided  on  the  Mackinaw 
Island.  In  1671,  he  furnished  an  account  of  the 
island  and  its  surroundings,  which  was  published  in 
•'  The  Relations  Des  Jesuits"  He  says  : 

"  Missilimackinac  is  an  island  famous  in  these 
regions,  of  more  than  a  league  in  diameter,  and 
elevated  in  some  places  by  such  high  cliffs  as  to  be 
seen  more  than  twelve  leagues  off.  It  is  situated 
just  in  the  strait  forming  the  communication  be 
tween  Lakes  Huron  and  Illinois  (Michigan).  It  is 
the  key,  and,  and  as  it  were,  the  gate  for  all  the 
tribes  from  the  south,  as  the  Saut,  (St.  Marie)  is 
for  those  of  the  north,  there  being  in  this  section 
of  country  only  those  two  passages  by  water,  for  a 
great  number  of  nations  have  to  go  by  one  or  other 
of  these  channels,  in  order  to  reach  the  French  set 
tlements. 

"  This  presents  a  peculiarly  favorable  opportu 
nity,  both  for  instructing  those  who  pass  here,  and 
also  for  obtaining  easy  access  and  conveyance  to 
their  places  of  abode. 

"  This  place  is  the  most  noted  in  these  regions 
for  the  abundance  of  its  fisheries ;  for.  according  to 


Old  Mackinaw.  41 

the  Indian  saying,  'this  is  the  home  of  the  fishes.' 
Elsewhere,  although  they  exist  in  large  numbers,  it 
is  not  properly  their  'home/  which  is  in  the  neigh 
borhood  of  Missilimackinac. 

11  In  fact,  beside  the  fish  common  to  all  the 
other  tribes,  as  the  herring,  carp,  pike,  gold-fish, 
white-fish  and  sturgeon,  there  are  found  three  varie 
ties  of  the  trout — one  common ;  the  second  of  a 
larger  size,  three  feet  long  and  one  foot  thick ;  the 
third  monstrous,  for  we  cannot  otherwise  describe 
it — it  being  so  fat  that  the  Indians,  who  have  a 
peculiar  relish  for  fats,  can  scarcely  eat  it.  Besides, 
the  supply  is  such  that  a  single  Indian  will  take 
forty  or  fifty  of  them  through  the  ice,  with  a  single 
spear,  in  three  hours. 

"It  is  this  attraction  which  has  heretofore  drawn 
to  a  point  so  advantageous,  the  greater  part  of  the 
savages,  in  this  country  driven  away  by  fear  of  the 
Iroquois.  The  three  tribes  at  present  living  on  the 
Baye  des  Puans  (Green  Bay)  as  strangers,  formerly 
dwelt  on  the  main  land  near  the  middle  of  this 
island — some  on  the  borders  of  Lake  Illinois,  others 
on  the  borders  of  Lake  Huron.  A  part  of  them, 
called  Sauteurs,  had  their  abode  on  the  main  land 
at  the  West,  and  the  others  look  upon  this  place  as 
their  country  for  passing  the  winter,  when  there  are 


42  Old  Mackinaw. 

no  fish  at  the  Saut.  The  Hurons,  called  Etonontath- 
ronnons,  have  lived  for  some  years  in  the  same  island, 
to  escape  the  Iroquois.  Four  villages  of  Ottawas 
had  also  their  abode  in  this  quarter. 

"It  is  worthy  of  notice  that  those  who  bore  the 
name  of  the  island,  and  called  themselves  Missilimack- 
inac,  were  so  numerous,  that  some  of  the  survivors 
yet  living  here  assure  us  that  they  once  had  thirty 
villages,  all  inclosed  in  a  fortification  of  a  league  and 
a  half  in  circuit,  when  the  Iroquois  came  and  de 
feated  them,  inflated  by  a  victory  they  had  gained 
over  three  thousand  men  of  that  nation,  who  had 
carried  their  hostilities  as  far  as  the  country  of  the 
Agnichronnons. 

u  In  one  word,  the  quantity  of  fish,  united  with  the 
excellence  of  the  soil  for  Indian  corn,  has  always 
been  a  powerful  attraction  to  the  tribes  in  these 
regions,  of  which  the  greater  part  subsist  only  on 
fish,  but  some  on  Indian  corn.  On  this  account 
many  of  these  same  tribes,  perceiving  that  the 
peace  is  likely  to  be  established  with  the  Iroquois, 
have  turned  their  attention  to  this  point  so  conve 
nient  for  a  return  to  their  own  country,  and  will 
follow  the  examples  of  those  who  have  made  a  be 
ginning  on  the  islands  of  Lake  Huron,  which  by 
this  means  will  soon  be  peopled  from  one  end  to 


Old  Mackinaw.  43 

the  other,  an  event  highly  desirable  to  facilitate  the 
instruction  of  the  Indian  race,  whom  it  would  not 
be  necessary  to  seek  by  journeys  of  two  or  three 
hundred  leagues  on  these  great  lakes,  with  incon 
ceivable  danger  and  hardships. 

"In  order  to  aid  the  execution  of  the  design, 
signified  to  us  by  many  of  the  savages,  of  taking 
up  their  abode  at  this  point,  where  some  have 
already  passed  the  winter,  hunting  in  the  neighbor 
hood,  we  ourselves  have  also  wintered  here,  in 
order  to  make  arrangements  for  establishing  the 
mission  of  St.  Ignace,  from  whence  it  will  be  easy 
to  have  access  to  all  the  Indians  of  Lake  Huron, 
when  the  several  tribes  shall  have  settled  each  on 
its  own  lands. 

•"  With  these  advantages,  the  place  has  also  its 
inconveniences,  particularly  for  the  French,  who  are 
not  yet  familiar,  as  are  the  savages,  with  the  diffe 
rent  kinds  of  fishery,  in  which  the  latter  are  trained 
from  their  birth ;  the  winds  and  the  tides  occasion 
no  small  embarrassment  to  the  fishermen. 

"The  winds:  For  this  is  the  central  point  be 
tween  the  three  great  lakes  which  surround  it,  and 
which  seem  incessantly  tossing  ball  at  each  other. 
For  no  sooner  has  the  wind  ceased  blowing  from 
Lake  Michigan  than  Lake  Huron  hurls  back  the 


/]/|  Old  Mackinaw. 

gale  it  has  received,  and  Lake  Superior  in  its  turn, 
sends  forth  its  blasts  from  another  quarter,  and  thus 
the  game  is  played  from  one  to  the  other — and  as 
these  lakes  are  of  vast  extent,  the  winds  cannot  be 
otherwise  than  boisterous,  especially  during  the  au 
tumn." 

"  Old  Mackinaw,"  the  Indian  name  of  which  is 
Pe-quod-e-non-ge,  an  Indian  town  on  the  south  side 
of  the  Straits,  became  the  place  of  the  first  French 
settlement  northwest  of  Fort  Frontenac,  or  Cada- 
raeque  on  Lake  Ontario.  The  settlement  was  made 
by  father  Marquette,  in  1671.  Pe-quod-e-non-ge,  as 
we  have  seen  in  a  previous  Chapter,  with  its  coasts 
and  islands  before  it,  has  been  the  theatre  of  some 
of  the  most  exciting  and  interesting  events  in  In 
dian  history,  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  ''white 
man."  It  was  the  Metropolis  of  a  portion  of  the 
Ojibwa  and  Ottawa  nations.  It  was  there  that 
their  Congresses  met,  to  adopt  a  policy  which  ter 
minated  in  the  conquest  of  the  country  south  of  it 
— it  was  there  that  the  tramping  feet  of  thousands 
of  plumed  and  painted  warriors  shook  Pe-quod-e- 
non-ge,  while  dancing  their  war  dances — it  was  from 
there  that  the  startling  sound  of  the  war  yell  of 
these  thousands  was  wafted  to  the  adjacent  coast 
and  islands,  making  the  peaceful  welkin  ring  with 


Old  Mackinaw.  45 

their  unearthly  shouts  of  victory  or  death.  In 
process  of  time  a  Chapel  and  Fort  were  erected, 
and  it  became  a  strong-hold  and  trading  post  of  the 
greatest  importance  to  the  entire  region  of  the 
northwest,  being  the  gateway  of  commerce  between 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Mississippi,  and  also  the 
grand  avenue  to  the  Upper  Lakes  of  the  north,  and 
the  rendezvous  of  the  traders,  merchants,  trappers, 
soldiers,  missionaries  and  Indians  of  the  whole 
northwest.  Villages  of  Hurons  and  Ottawas  were 
located  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Fort  and  Chapel.  The 
Fort  inclosed  an  area  of  about  several  acres,  and  was 
surrounded  with  cedar  pickets.  The  remains  of  the 
fort  and  buildings  can  still  be  seen.  On  an  emi 
nence  not  far  from  the  fort,  the  Ottawas  erected  a 
fortification.  Within  the  inclosure  of  the  Fort  and 
adjoining  the  Chapel,  the  Jesuits  erected  a  College, 
the  first  institution  of  the  kind  in  the  Western 
country.  It  was  also  the  great  depot  for  the  Cour- 
riers  des  Bois,  or  rangers  of  the  woods,  who,  from 
their  distant  excursions,  would  congregate  here. 
The  goods  which  they  had  brought  from  Canada, 
for  the  purpose  of  exchanging  for  furs  with  the  In 
dians  of  Green  Bay  and  Illinois,  and  along  the 
shores  of  Lake  Superior,  and  the  region  lying  be 
tween  that  and  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  had  to 


46  Old  Mackinaw. 

be  deposited  here,  and  they  were  usually  on  hand 
a  long  time  before  they  could  be  disposed  of  and 
transferred  to  the  distant  marts  of  trade. 

In  the  year  1672,  while  Marquette  was  engaged 
in  his  duties  as  priest  at  the  Chapel,  the  site  of 
which  now  bears  the  name  of  St.  Ignatius,  and  also 
employed  in  instructing  the  Indian  youth  of  the 
villages,  he  was  visited  ~by  Joliet,  a  member  of  the 
same  order  who  bore  a  commission  from  Frontenac, 
then  Governor  of  Canada,  empowering  him  to  select 
Marquette  as  a  companion  and  enter  upon  a  voyage 
of  discovery.  The  winter  was  spent  by  these  men 
in  making  preparations  to  carry  out  the  commands 
of  their  superiors.  The  specific  object  of  their  mis 
sion  was  to  explore  the  Mississippi,  which  was  sup 
posed  to  empty  into  the  Gulf  of  California.  That  all 
possible  information  might  be  gained  in  regard  to 
this  unknown  river,  Marquette  held  conversations 
with  all  the  noted  Indian  explorers  and  trappers,  as 
well  as  the  rangers  of  the  woods  within  his  reach. 
From  tbe  information  thus  gained  he  made  out  a  map 
of  the  river,  including  its  source  and  direction,  and 
all  the  streams  known  to  empty  into  it. 

Spring  at  length  came,  and  on  a  bright,  beautiful 
morning  in  the  month  of  May,  having  bid  adieu  to 
his  charge  at  his  mission,  and  commended  his  flock 


Old  Mackinaw.  4/ 

to  God,  Marquette  and  his  companion,  with  five 
others  selected  for  the  purpose,  entered  their  bark 
canoes  with  paddles  in  hand,  and  St.  Ignatius  was 
soon  lost  to  the  sight  of  the  devoted  missionary  for 
ever.  After  sailing  along  the  Straits  they  entered 
Lake  Michigan,  and  continued  their  voyage  until 
they  arrived  at  Green  Bay,  passed  the  mouth  of  the 
Menominee  Eiver,  finally  reaching  that  of  the  Fox 
Kiver.  On  the  7th  of  June,  having  sailed  upwards 
of  two  hundred  miles,  the  voyagers  reached  the 
mission  of  St.  Francis  Xavier.  They  had  now 
reached  the  limit  of  all  former  French  or  English 
discoveries.  The  new  and  unknown  "West  spread 
out  before  them,  and  the  thousand  dangers  and 
hardships  by  river  and  land,  heightened  by  tales  of 
horror  related  to  them  by  the  Indians,  were  pre 
sented  to  their  imagination.  Kesolutely  determined 
to  prosecute  the  enterprise  committed  to  their 
charge,  they  knelt  upon  the  shore  of  Fox  River  to 
renew  their  devotions  and  obtain  the  divine  gui 
dance  and  protection.  Encouraged  by  past  success, 
and  urged  on  by  a  strong  faith,  they  launched  their 
canoes  upon  the  bosom  of  the  Fox  River,  and 
breaking  the  silence  of  its  shores  by  the  dip  of  their 
paddles,  they  sailed  up  its  current.  When  they 
reached  the  rapids  of  that  river,  it  was  with  dim- 


48  Old  Mackinaw. 

culty  they  were  enabled  to  proceed.  There  was  not 
power  enough  in  the  paddles  of  the  two  canoes  to 
stem  the  current,  and  they  were  obliged  to  wade  up 
the  rapids  on  the  jagged  rocks,  and  thus  tow  them 
along.  Having  made  the  voyage  of  the  Fox  they 
arrived  at  the  portage,  and  taking  their  canoes  con 
taining  their  provision  and  clothes  upon  their 
shoulders,  they  reached  the  Wisconsin  and  launched 
them  upon  that  stream.  They  had  no  longer  to 
breast  a  rapid  current,  as  the  waters  of  the  Wiscon 
sin  flowed  west.  With  renewed  courage  they  pro 
secuted  their  voyage,  and  after  ten  days  their  hearts 
were  made  glad  at  the  sight  of  the  broad  and  beau 
tiful  river  which  they  were  entering,  and  which 
they  supposed  would  bear  them  to  the  far-off  west 
ern  sea.  They  had  reached  the  "  father  of  waters." 
No  sight  could  be  more  charming  than  that  which 
presented  itself  to  their  vision  as  they  beheld  on 
either  side,  alternately  stretching  away  to  a  vast 
distance,  immense  forests  of  mountain  and  plain. 

At  length,  on  the  25th  of  June,  as  they  were 
sailing  along  near  the  eastern  shore,  they  disco 
vered  foot-prints  in  the  sand.  At  sight  of  these 
they  landed  and  fastening  their  canoes,  that  they 
might  again  look  upon  the  face  of  .human  beings, 
they  followed  an  Indian  path  which  led  up  the 


Old  Mackinaw.  49 

bank.  They  were  not  long  in  finding  two  Indian 
villages,  which  proved  to  be  those  of  the  "Pewa- 
rias"  and  "  Moing-wenas."  In  answer  to  a  question 
proposed  by  Marquette,  who  addressed  them  in  In 
dian,  and  inquired  who  they  were ;  they  answered, 
"  We  are  Illinois."  After  an  exchange  of  friendly 
greetings  with  these  peaceable  Indians,  the  voyagers 
re-embarked  and  passed  on  down  the  river.  They 
continued  on  their  downward  passage  until  they 
reached  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  which  poured 
its  turbid  flood  into  the  Mississippi;  and  still  fur 
ther  until  they  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and 
then  on  down  until  they  passed  the  Arkansas,  and 
arrived  within  thirty  miles  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Mississippi.  It  was  not  necessary  to  proceed  any 
further  to  satisfy  the  explorers  that  the  river  entered 
into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  instead  of  that  of  Cali 
fornia. 

Having  accomplished  the  end  of  the  expedition, 
the  company  started  out  upon  their  return  trip  on 
the  17th  of  July.  When  they  reached  the  mouth 
of  the  Illinois  river,  they  determined  on  returning 
by  that  route  to  Mackinaw.  Arriving  at  the  por 
tage  of  that  river  they  fell  in  with  a  tribe  of  In 
dians  who  called  themselves  the  Kaskaskias,  who 
kindly  volunteered  to  conduct  them  to  Lake  Michi- 
5 


50  Old  Mackinaw 

gan,  where  in  due  time  they  arrived.  After  sailing 
along  the  western  shore  of  the  lake  they  again 
found  themselves  at  Green  Bay,  and  were  heartily 
welcomed  by  the  brethren  at  the  mission  of  St. 
Francis  Xavier.  "Worn  down  with  fatigue,  Mar- 
quette  determined  to  remain  here  to  recruit  his 
health  before  returning  to  his  missionary  labors. 
He  spent  his  time  at  this  mission  post  in  copying 
his  journal  of  the  voyage  down  the  Mississippi  and 
back,  which  he  accompanied  by  a  map  of  the  river 
and  country,  and  sent  by  the  Ottawa  flotilla  to  his 
superiors  at  Montreal.  The  return  of  this  flotilla 
brought  him  orders  for  the  establishment  of  a  mis 
sion  among  the  Illinois,  with  whom  he  had  so 
friendly  an  interview  on  his  exploring  voyage. 
Having  passed  the  winter  and  succeeding  summer 
at  the  St.  Xavier  mission,  he  started  out  in  the  fall 
for  Kaskaskia.  The  difficulties  of  the  journey  were 
such,  it  having  to  be  accomplished  by  land  and 
water,  that  his  health,  which  had  been  greatly  en 
feebled  by  his  former  voyage,  was  not  sufficient  to 
enable  him  to  endure  the  cold  winds  of  winter 
which  had  set  in  before  the  completion  of  the  jour 
ney.  On  reaching  the  Chicago  Kiver  it  was  found 
closed,  and  he  did  not  consider  it  prudent  to  under 
take  an  over-land  journey.  He  therefore  resolved 


Old  Mackinaw.  51 

to  winter  at  that  point,  and  giving  his  Indian  com 
panions  who  accompanied  him  the  proper  instruc 
tions  and  pious  counsel,  he  sent  them  back  to  Green 
Bay.  Two  Frenchmen  made  an  arrangement  to 
remain  with  him  during  the  winter.  The  nearest 
persons  to  their  lodge  were  fifty  miles  distant.  They 
were  French  trappers  and  traders,  one  of  whom 
bore  the  title  of  a  doctor.  This  latter  person  being 
informed  of  Marquette's  ill-health  paid  him  a  visit, 
and  did  what  he  could  for  his  relief.  He  also  re 
ceived  friendly  offices  from  the  Indians  in  the  neigh 
borhood,  a  party  of  whom  proposed  to  carry  him 
and  all  his  baggage  to  the  contemplated  mission  at 
Kaskaskia.  His  health,  however,  was  such  that  it 
did  not  allow  him  to  accept  their  kind  offer,  and  he 
was  obliged  to  remain  in  his  camp  during  the 
winter. 

Spring  at  length  returned  after  a  long  and  dreary 
winter,  and  Marquette,  with  some  Indian  compa 
nions,  started  out  for  the  upper  waters  of  the  Illi 
nois  River.  In  about  two  weeks  he  reached  Kas 
kaskia,  and  at  once  entered  upon  the  duties  of  his 
mission.  After  having  instructed  the  Indians,  so 
as  to  enable  them  to  understand  the  objects  of  his 
mission  to  them,  he  called  them  all  together  in  the 
open  prairie,  where  he  had  erected  a  rude  altar  sur- 


52  Old  Mackinaw. 

mounted  by  the  cross,  and  adorned  with  pictures 
of  the  Virgin  Mary.  The  chiefs  and  warriors,  and 
the  whole  tribe,  were  addressed  by  him  in  their 
native  tongue.  He  made  a  number  of  presents  to 
them,  the  more  effectually  to  gain  their  affections 
and  confidence,  and  then  related  to  them  the  simple 
story  of  the  cross,  after  which  he  celebrated  mass. 
The  scene  was  truly  impressive,  and  the  effect  upon 
the  sons  of  the  forest  was  all  that  the  missionary 
could  desire.  Bright  and  cheering  were  the  pros 
pects  of  converting  the  Kaskaskias  to  Christianity, 
but  the  devoted  missionary  was  doomed  to  disap 
pointment.  His  former  malady  returned,  and  as 
sumed  a  type  of  so  alarming  a  nature,  that  he  was 
satisfied  his  labors  on  earth  would  soon  come  to  an 
end. 

Thoughts  of  his  beloved  mission  at  Mackinaw, 
where  he  had  spent  so  many  days  in  preaching  to 
Ottawas  and  Hurons,  and  in  teaching  their  youth 
Christian  science,  filled  his  mind ;  and  the  Christian, 
not  to  say  natural,  desire  of  his  heart,  was  again  to 
bow  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  Ignatius,  and  again  behold 
the  parents  and  children  of  his  former  charge. 
Having  received  the  last  rites  of  the  church  he  set 
out  to  the  lake,  accompanied  by  the  Kaskaskias 
who  sorrowed  much  at  his  departure,  but  who  were 


Old  Mackinaw.  53 

comforted  by  the  dying  missionary,  who  assured 
them  that  another  would  soon  be  sent  to  take  his 
place.  When  they  reached  the  shore  of  Lake  Mi 
chigan  the  Indians  returned,  and  with  his  two 
French  companions  Marquette  embarked  in  a  canoe 
upon  its  waters.  As  they  coasted  along  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  lake  the  health  of  Marquette  continued 
to  fail,  and  he  at  last  became  so  weak  that  when 
they  landed  to  encamp  for  the  night  they  had  to 
lift  him  out  of  the  canoe.  Much  further  they  could 
not  proceed,  as  the  journey  of  life  with  the  mis 
sionary  was  rapidly  drawing  to  a  close. 

Conscious  of  his  approaching  dissolution,  as  they 
were  gently  gliding  along  the  shore,  he  directed  his 
companions  to  paddle  into  the  mouth  of  a  small 
river  which  they  were  nearing,  and  pointing  to  an 
eminence  not  far  from  the  bank,  he  languidly  said, 
"Bury  me  there."  That  river,  to  this  day,  bears 
the  name  of  the  lamented  Marquette.  On  landing 
they  erected  a  bark  cabin,  and  stretched  the  dying 
missionary  as  comfortably  as  they  could  beneath  its 
humble  roof.  Having  blessed  some  water  with  the 
usual  ceremonies  of  the  Catholic  Church,  he  gave 
his  companions  directions  how  to  proceed  in  his 
last  moments.  He  instructed  them  also  in  regard 
to  the  manner  in  which  they  were  to  arrange  his 
5* 


54  Old  Mackinaw. 

body  when  dead,  and  the  ceremonies  to  be  per 
formed  when  it  was  committed  to  the  earth.  He 
then,  for  the  last  time,  heard  the  confessions  of  his 
companions,  encouraging  them  to  rely  on  the  mercy 
and  protection  of  God,  and  then  sent  them  away  to 
take  the  repose  they  so  much  needed.  After  a  few 
hours  he  felt  that  he  was  about  taking  his  last 
sleep,  and  calling  them,  he  took  his  crucifix  and 
placing  it  in  their  hands,  pronounced  in  a  clear 
voice  his  profession  of  faith,  thanking  the  Almighty 
for  the  favor  of  permitting  him  to  die  a  Jesuit  Mis 
sionary.  Then  calmly  folding  his  arms  upon  his 
breast  with  the  name  of  Jesus  on  his  lips,  and  his 
eyes  raised  to  heaven,  while  over  his  face  beamed 
the  radiance  of  immortality,  he  passed  away  to  the 
land  of  the  blest. 

In  conformity  with  the  directions  of  the  deceased,  in 
due  time  his  companions  prepared  the  body  for  burial, 
and  to  the  sound  of  his  Chapel  bell  bore  it  slowly  and 
solemnly  to  the  place  designated,  where  they  commit 
ted  it  to  the  dust,  and  erected  a  rude  cross  to  point 
out  to  the  passing  traveler  the  place  of  his  grave. 

James  Marquette  was  of  a  most  ancient  and  hon 
orable  family  of  the  city  of  Laon,  France.  Born 
at  the  ancient  seat  of  his  family,  in  the  year  1637, 
he  was,  through  his  pious  mother,  Eose  de  la  Salle, 


Old  Mackinaw.  y_j 

allied  to  the  venerable  John  Baptist  de  la  Salle,  the 
founder  of  the  institute  known  as  the  Brothers  of 
the  Christian  Schools.  At  the  age  of  seventeen  he 
entered  the  Society  of  Jesus,  and  after  two  years  of 
study  and  self-examination  had  passed  away,  he 
was,  as  is  usual  with  the  young  Jesuits,  employed  in 
teaching,  which  position  he  held  for  twelve  years. 
No  sooner  had  he  been  invested  with  the  priesthood, 
than  his  desire  to  become  in  all  things  an  imitator 
of  his  chosen  patron,  St.  Francis  Xavier,  induced 
him  to  seek  a  mission  in  some  land  that  knew  not 
God,  that  he  might  labor  there  to  his  latest  breath, 
and  die  unaided  and  alone.  His  desire  was  grati 
fied.  For  nine  years  he  labored  among  the  Indians, 
and  was  able  to  preach  to  them  in  ten  different  lan 
guages  ;  but  he  rests  from  his  labors,  and  his  works 
follow  him.  He  died,  May  18,  1675. 

The  Indians  of  Mackinaw  and  vicinity,  and  also 
those  of  Kaskaskia,  were  in  great  sorrow  when  the 
tidings  of  Marquette's  death  reached  them.  Not 
long  after  this  melancholy  event,  a  large  company 
of  Ojibwas,  Ottawas,  and  Hurons,  who  had  been 
out  on  a  hunting  expedition,  landed  their  canoes  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Marquette  river,  with  the  inten 
tion  of  removing  his  remains  to  Mackinaw.  They 
had  heard  of  his  desire  to  have  his  body  interred  in 


56  Old  Mackinaw 

the  consecrated  ground  of  St.  Ignatius,  and  they 
had  resolved  that  the  dying  wish  of  the  missionary 
should  be  fulfilled.  As  they  stood  around  in  silence 
and  gazed  upon  the  cross  that  marked  the  place  of 
his  burial,  the  hearts  of  the  stern  warriors  were 
moved.  The  bones  of  the  missionary  were  dug  up 
and  placed  in  a  neat  box  of  bark  made  for  the  oc 
casion,  and  the  numerous  canoes  which  formed  a 
large  fleet  started  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  with 
nothing  but  the  sighs  of  the  Indians,  and  the  dip 
of  the  paddles  to  break  the  silence  of  the  scene. 
As  they  advanced  towards  Mackinaw,  the  funeral 
cortege  was  met  by  a  large  number  of  canoes  bear 
ing  Ottawas,  Hurons,  and  Iroquois,  and  still  others 
shot  out  ever  and  anon  to  join  the  fleet. 

"When  they  arrived  in  sight  of  the  Point,  and 
beheld  the  cross  of  St.  Ignatius  as  if  painted  against 
the  northern  sky,  the  missionaries  in  charge  came 
out  to  the  beach  clad  in  vestments  adapted  to  the 
occasion.  How  was  the  scene  heightened  when  the 
priests  commenced,  as  the  canoe  bearing  the  re 
mains  of  Marquette  neared  the  shore,  to  chant  the 
requiem  for  the  dead.  The  whole  population  was 
out,  entirely  covering  the  beach,  and  as  the  proces 
sion  marched  up  to  the  Chapel  with  cross  and 
prayer,  and  tapers  burning,  and  laid  the  bark  box 


Old    Mackinaw.  57 

beneath  a  pall  made  in  the  form  of  a  coffin,  the  sons 
and  daughters  of  the  forest  wept.  After  the  fune 
ral  service  was  ended,  the  coffin  was  placed  in  a 
vault  in  the  middle  of  the  church,  where  the  Catholic 
historian  says,  "Marquette  reposes  as  the  guardian 
angel  of  the  Ottawa  missions." 

"  He  was  the  first  and  last  white  man  who  ever 
had  such  an  assembly  of  the  wild  sons  of  the  forest 
to  attend  him  to  his'  grave. 

"So  many  stirring  events  succeeded  each  other 
after  this  period — first,  the  war  between  the  English 
Colonists,  and  the  French ;  then  the  Colonists  with 
the  Indians,  the  Eevolutionary  War,  the  Indian  Wars, 
and  finally  the  War  of  1812,  with  the  death  of  all 
those  who  witnessed  his  burial,  including  the  Fathers 
who  officiated  at  the  time,  whose  papers  were  lost, 
together  with  the  total  destruction  and  evacuation 
of  this  mission  station  for  many  years,  naturally 
obliterated  all  recollections  of  the  transaction,  which 
accounts  for  the  total  ignorance  of  the  present  inha 
bitants  of  Point  St.  Ignatius  respecting  it.  The 
locality  of  his  grave  is  lost;  but  only  until  the 
Archangel's  trump,  at  the  last,  shall  summon  him 
from  his  narrow  grave,  with  those  plumed  and 
painted  warriors  who  now  lie  around  him." 

The   Missionaries  who   succeeded  Marquette,   at 


58  Old  Mackinaw. 

Mackinaw,  continued  their  labors  until  1706,  when, 
finding  it  useless  to  continue  the  mission,  or  struggle 
any  longer  with  superstition  and  vice,  they  burned 
down  their  College  and  Chapel,  and  returned  to 
Quebec.  The  governor,  alarmed  at  this  step,  at 
last  promised  to  enforce  the  laws  against  the  disso 
lute  French,  and  prevailed  on  Father  Marest  to 
return.  Soon  after  the  Ottawas,  discontented  at  De 
troit,  a  French  post,  which  was  served  by  the  Ee- 
collects,  and  where  the  blood  of  a  Recollect  had 
been  shed  in  a  riot,  began  to  move  back  to  Macki 
naw,  and  the  mission  was  renewed.  In  1721,  Char- 
levoix  visited  this  mission,  and  this  is  the  last  we 
hear  of  it. 

Nearly  two  hundred  years  have  passed  away 
since  that  event.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Ignatius  has 
passed  away,  and  with  it  the  Chapel,  and  Fort,  and 
College  at  Old  Mackinaw.  Nothing  is  left  but  the 
stone  walls  and  stumps  of  the  pickets  which  sur 
rounded  them,  and  which  may  be  seen  to  this  day. 
To  the  Catholic,  this  consecrated  spot,  the  site  of 
one  of  their  first  Chapels,  and  their  first  College  in 
the  great  northwest,  must  possess  unusual  interest. 
As  there  is  a  difference  of  opinion  in  relation  to 
the  burial  place  of  Marquette,  whether  it  was  on 
the  north  or  south  side  of  the  Straits,  we  give  the 


Old  Mackinaw.  59 

following  from  "  Schoolcraft's  Discovery  of  the 
Sources  of  the  Mississippi."  He  says  :  "  They  car 
ried  his  body  to  the  Mission  of  Old  Mackinaw,  of 
which  he  was  the  founder,  where  it  was  interred. 
It  is  known  that  the  Mission  of  Mackinaw  fell  on 
the  downfall  of  the  Jesuits.  When  the  post  of 
Mackinaw  was  removed  from  the  peninsula  to  the 
island,  which  was  about  1780,  the  bones  of  the  Mis 
sionary  were  transferred  to  the  old  Catholic  burial 
ground,  in  the  village  on  the  island.  There  they 
remained  till  a  land  or  property  question  arose  to 
agitate  the  Church,  and  when  the  crisis  happened 
the  whole  grave-yard  was  disturbed,  and  his  bones, 
with  others,  were  transferred  to  the  Indian  village 
of  La  Crosse,  which  is  in  the  vicinity  of  L'Arbre 
Croche,  Michigan." 

There  is  a  difference  of  opinion  also  as  to  the  point 
from  whence  Marquette  and  his  companions  started 
for  the  discovery  of  the  Mississippi.  Schoolcraft 
says :  "  Wherever  Missilimackinac  is  mentioned 
in  the  Missionary  letters,  or  in  the  history  of  this 
period,  it  is  the  ancient  Fort  on  the  apex  of  the 
Michigan  peninsula  that  is  alluded  to."  In  his  In 
troduction  to  the  above  work,  he  says,  that  "  Father 
Marquette,  after  laying  the  foundation  of  Missili 
mackinac,  proceeded  in  company  with  Sieur  Joliet, 


6o  Old  Mackinaw. 

up  the  Fox  Eiver  of  Green  Bay,  and  crossing  the 
portage  into  the  Wisconsin,  entered  the  Mississippi 
in  1673." 

It  is  an  established  fact,  that  Marquette  organized 
the  Mission  at  Old  Mackinaw,  in  the  year  1671, 
subsequently  to  that  at  the  opposite  point,  and  that 
he  remained  there  until  the  year  1673,  when  he  em 
barked  with  Joliet  on  his  exploring  tour  of  the  Mis 
sissippi.  Charelvoix  places  the  Mission  of  St.  Ig- 
nace,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Straits,  adjoining  the 
Fort,  and  has  made  no  such  designation  on  the  north 
side,  showing  at  least  that  this  mission  was  more 
modern  than  the  other.  Nearly  all  the  Jesuit  Mis 
sions  bore  the  name  of  St.  Ignatius,  in  honor  of 
their  founder,  as  those  of  the  Franciscans  bore  the 
name  of  St.  Francis.  Ignatius  Loyola  and  Francis 
Xavier  were  the  founders  of  these  sects. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

La  Salle's  visit  to  Mackinaw — English,  traders — La  Hontan's 
visit — Mackinaw  an  English  fort — Speech  of  a  Chippewa 
Chief — Indian  stratagem — Massacre  of  the  English  at  the 
fort — Escape  of  Mr.  Alexander  Henry — Early  white  settle 
ment  of  Mackinaw — Present  description — Relations  of  the 
Jesuits  —  Remarkable  phenomena  —  Parhelia  —  Subterra 
nean  river. 

IN  the  summer  of  1679  the  Griffin,  built  by  La 
Salle  and  his  company  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Erie, 
at  the  present  site  of  the  town  of  Erie,  passed  up 
the  St.  Clair,  sailed  over  the  Huron,  and  entering 
the  Straits,  found  a  safe  harbor  at  Old  Mackinaw. 
La  Salle's  expedition  passed  eight  or  nine  years  at 
this  place,  and  from  hence  they  penetrated  the  coun 
try  in  all  directions.  At  the  same  time  it  continued 
to  be  the  summer  resort  of  numerous  Indian  tribes 
who  came  here  to  trade  and  engage  in  the  wild  sports 
and  recreations  peculiar  to  the  savage  race.  As  a 
city  of  peace,  it  was  regarded  in  the  same  light  that 
«  (61) 


62  Old  Mackinaw. 

the  ancient  Hebrews  regarded  their  cities  of  Refuge, 
and  among  those  who  congregated  here  all  animosi 
ties  were  forgotten.  The  smoke  of  the  calumet  of 
peace  always  ascended,  and  the  war  cry  never  as 
yet  has  been  heard  in  its  streets. 

In  Heriot's  Travels,  published  in  1807,  we  find 
the  following  interesting  item  : 

1  In  1671  Father  Marquette  came  hither  with  a 
party  of  Hurons,  whom  he  prevailed  on  to  form  a 
settlement.  A  fort  was  constructed,  and  it  afterward 
became  an  important  spot.  It  was  the  place  of  general 
assemblage  for  all  the  French  who  went  to  traffic 
with  the  distant  nations.  It  was  the  asylum  of  all 
savages  who  came  to  exchange  their  furs  for  mer 
chandise.  When  individuals  belonging  to  tribes  at 
war  with  each  other  came  thither,  and  met  on  com 
mercial  adventure,  their  animosities  were  sus 
pended." 

Notwithstanding  San-ge-man  and  his  warriors  had 
braved  the  dangers  of  the  Straits  and  had  slain  a 
hundred  of  their  enemies  whose  residence  was  here, 
yet  it  was  not  in  the  town  that  they  were  slain.  No 
blood  was  ever  shed  by  Indian  hands  within  its  pre 
cincts  up  to  this  period,  and  had  it  remained  in 
possession  of  the  French  the  terrible  scenes  subse 
quently  enacted  within  its  streets  would  in  all  prob- 


Old  Mackinaw.  63 

ability  never  have  occurred,  and  Old  Mackinaw 
would  have  been  a  city  of  Refuge  to  this  day. 

The  English,  excited  by  the  emoluments  derived 
from  the  fur  trade,  desired  to  secure  a  share  in  this 
lucrative  traffic  of  the  northwestern  Lakes.  They, 
accordingly,  in  the  year  1686,  fitted  out  an  expedi 
tion,  and  through  the  interposition  of  the  Fox  In 
dians,  whose  friendship  they  secured  by  valuable 
presents  ;  the  expedition  reached  Old  Mackinaw,  the 
"Queen  of  the  Lakes,"  and  found  the  El  Dorado 
they  had  so  long  desired. 

The  following  interesting  description,  from  Park- 
man's  "  History  of  the  Conspiracy  of  Pontiac,"  of  a 
voyage  by  an  English  merchant  to  Old  Mackinaw 
about  this  time,  will  be  in  place  here :  "Passing  the 
fort  and  settlement  of  Detroit,  he  soon  enters  Lake 
St.  Glair,  which  seems  like  a  broad  basin  filled 
to  overflowing,  while  along  its  far  distant  verge  a 
faint  line  of  forests  separates  the  water  from  the  sky, 
He  crosses  the  lake,  and  his  voyagers  next  urge 
his  canoe  against  the  current  of  the  great  river 
above.  At  length  Lake  Huron  opens  before  him, 
stretching  its  liquid  expanse  like  an  ocean  to  the 
furthest  horizon.  His  canoe  skirts  the  eastern  shore 
of  Michigan,  where  the  forest  rises  like  a  wall  from 
the  water's  edge,  and  as  he  advances  onward,  an 


64  Old   Mackinaw. 

endless  line  of  stift'  and  shaggy  fir  trees  hung  with 
long  mosses,  fringe  the  shore  with  an  aspect  of  deso 
lation.  Passing  on  his  right  the  extensive  Island 
of  Bois  Blanc,  he  sees  nearly  in  front  the  beautiful 
Island  of  Mackinaw  rising  with  its  white  cliffs  and 
green  foliage  from  the  broad  breast  of  waters.  He 
does  not  steer  toward  it,  for  at  that  day  the  Indians 
were  its  only  tenants,  but  keeps  along  the  main 
shore  to  the  left,  while  his  voyagers  raise  their  song 
and  chorus.  Doubling  a  point  he  sees  before  him 
the  red  flag  of  England  swelling  lazily  in  the  wind, 
and  the  palisades  and  wooden  bastions  of  Fort  Macki 
naw  standing  close  upon  the  margin  of  the  lake. 
On  the  beach  canoes  are  drawn  up,  and  Canadians 
and  Indians  are  idly  lounging.  A  little  beyond  the 
fort  is  a  cluster  of  white  Canadian  houses  roofed 
with  bark  and  protected  by  fences  of  strong  round 
pickets.  The  trader  enters  the  gate  and  sees  before 
him  an  extensive  square  area,  surrounded  by  high 
palisades.  Numerous  houses,  barracks,  and  other 
buildings  form  a  smaller  square  within,  and  in  the 
vacant  place  which  they  enclose  appear  the  red 
uniforms  of  British  soldiers,  the  grey  coats  of  the 
Canadians,  and  the  gaudy  Indian  blankets  mingled 
in  picturesque  confusion,  while  a  multitude  of  squaws 


Old  Mackinaw.  65 

with  children  of  every  hue  stroll  restlessly  about 
the  place.     Such  was  old  fort  Mackinaw  in  1763." 

La  Hontan,  who  visited  Mackinaw  in  1688,  says: 
"  It  is  a  place  of  great  importance.  It  is  not  above 
half  a  league  distant  from  the  Illinese  (Michigan) 
Lake.  Here  the  Hurons  and  Ottawas  have  each  of 
them  a  village,  the  one  being  severed  from  the  other 
by  a  single  palisado,  but  the  Ottawas  are  beginning 
to  build  a  fort  upon  a  hill  that  stands  but  one  thou 
sand  or  twelve  hundred  paces  off.  In  this  place  the 
Jesuits  have  a  little  house  or  college  adjoining  to  a 
church,  and  inclosed  with  pales  that  separate  it  from 
the  village  of  the  Hurons.  The  Courriers  de  Bois 
have  but  a  very  small  settlement  here,  at  the  same 
time  it  is  not  inconsiderable,  as  being  the  staple 
of  all  the  goods  that  they  truck  with  the  south  and 
west  savages ;  for  they  cannot  avoid  passing  this 
way  when  they  go  to  the  seats  of  the  Illinese  and 
the  Oumamis  on  to  the  Bay  des  Puanto,  and  to  the 
Kiver  Mississippi.  Missilimackinac  is  situated  very 
advantageously,  for  the  Iroquese  dare  not  venture 
with  their  sorry  canoes  to  cross  the  stright  of  the 
Illinese  Lake,  which  is  two  leagues  over;  besides 
that  the  Lake  of  the  Hurons  is  too  rough  for  such 
slender  boats,  and  as  they  cannot  come  to  it  by  water, 
so  they  cannot  approach  it  by  land  by  reason  of  the 


66  Old  Mackinaw. 

marshes,  fens,  and  little  rivers  which  it  would  be 
very  difficult  to  cross,  not  to  mention  that  the  stright 
of  the  Illinese  Lake  lies  still  in  their  way." 

As  rivals  of  the  French,  the  English  were  never 
regarded  with  favor  by  the  various  Indian  tribes. 
Constant  encroachments  by  the  English  from  year 
to  year,  though  they  were  lavish  of  their  gifts  did 
not  tend  to  soften  the  hostility  of  the  tribes.  Thus 
matters  continued  until  Mackinaw  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  English,  which  event  took  place  after 
the  fall  of  Quebec  in  the  year  1759.  This  transfer 
of  jurisdiction  from  a  people  that  the  Indians  loved 
to  one  that  they  experienced  a  growing  hate  for 
during  three-quarters  of  a  century,  filled  them  with 
u  spirit  of  revenge.  Such  was  the  dislike  of  the 
Indians  of  Mackinaw  to  the  English,  that  when 
Alexander  Henry  visited  that  place  in  1761,  he  was 
obliged  to  conceal  the  fact  that  he  was  an  English 
man  and  disguise  himself  as  a  Canadian  voyager. 
On  the  way  he  was  frequently  warned  by  the  Indans 
to  turn  back,  as  he  would  not  be  received  at  Macki 
naw,  and  as  there  were  no  British  soldiers  there  as 
yet,  he  was  assured  that  his  visit  would  be  attend  with 
great  hazard.  He  still  persisted,  however,  and  finally, 
with  his  canoes  laden  with  goods  he  reached  the  fort, 
which,  we  have  before  remarked,  was  surrounded 


Old  Mackinaw.  67 

with  palisades,  and  occupied  the  high  ground  imme 
diately  back  from  the  beach.  When  he  entered  the 
village  he  met  with  a  cold  reception,  and  the  inha 
bitants  did  all  in  their  power  to  alarm  and  dis 
courage  him. 

Soon  after  his  arrival  he  received  the  very  un 
pleasant  intelligence,  that  a  large  number  of  Chippe- 
was  were  coming  from  the  neighboring  villages  in 
their  canoes  to  call  upon  him.  Under  ordinary  cir 
cumstances  this  information  would  not  have  excited 
any  alarm,  but  as  the  French  of  Mackinaw  as  well 
as  the  Indians  were  alike  hostile  to  the  English 
trader,  it  was  no  difficult  matter  to  apprehend  dan 
ger.  At  length  the  Indians,  about  sixty  in  number, 
arrived,  each  with  a  tomahawk  in  one  hand  and  a 
scalping  knife  in  the  other.  The  garrison  at  this 
time  contained  about  ninety  soldiers,  a  commander 
and  two  officers.  Beside  the  small  arms,  on  the  bas 
tions  were  mounted  two  small  pieces  of  brass  can 
non.  Beside  Henry,  there  were  four  English  mer 
chants  at  the  fort.  After  the  Indians  were  intro 
duced  to  Henry  and  his  English  brethren,  their 
chief  presented  him  with  a  few  strings  of  wampum 
and  addressed  them  as  follows : 

"  Englishmen,  it  is  to  you  that  I  speak,  and  I  de 
mand  your  attention.  You  know  that  the  French 


68  Old  Mackinaw. 

King  is  our  father.  He  promised  to  be  such,  and  \v<> 
in  turn  promised  to  be  his  children.  This  promise  \vo 
have  kept.  It  is  you  that  have  made  war  with  this 
our  father.  You  are  his  enemy,  and  how  then  could 
you  have  the  boldness  to  venture  among  us,  his 
children.  You  know  that  his  enemies  are  ours.  We 
are  informed  that  our  father,  the  King  of  France,  is 
old  and  infirm,  and  that  being  fatigued  with  making 
war  upon  your  nation,  he  has  fallen  asleep.  During 
this  sleep  you  have  taken  advantage  of  him  and 
possessed  yourselves  of  Canada.  But  his  nap  is 
almost  at  an  end.  I  think  I  hear  him  already  stir 
ring  and  inquiring  for  his  children,  and  when  he 
does  awake  what  must  become  of  you?  He  will 
utterly  destroy  you.  Although  you  have  conquered 
the  French  you  have  not  conquered  us.  We  are 
not  your  slaves.  These  lakes,  these  woods  and 
mountains  are  left  to  us  by  our  ancestors,  they  are 
our  inheritance  and  we  will  part  with  them  to  none. 
Your  nation  supposes  that  we,  like  the  white  people, 
cannot  live  without  bread,  and  pork,  and  beef,  but 
you  ought  to  know  that  He,  the  Great  Spirit  and 
Master  of  Life,  has  provided  food  for  us  in  these 
spacious  lakes  and  on  these  woody  mountains. 

Our  father,  the  King  of  France,  employed  our 
young  men  to  make  war  upon  your  nation.     In  this 


Old  Mackinaw.  69 

warfare  many  of  them  have  been  killed,  and  it  is 
our  custom  to  retaliate  until  such  time  as  the  spirits 
of  the  slain  are  satisfied.  But  the  spirits  of  the  slain 
are  to  be  satisfied  in  one  of  two  ways ;  the  first  is 
by  the  spilling  the  blood  of  the  nation  by  which 
they  fell,  the  other  by  covering  the  bodies  of  the 
dead,  and  thus  allaying  the  resentment  of  their 
relations.  This  is  done  by  making  presents.  Your 
king  has  never  sent  us  any  presents,  nor  entered 
into  any  treaty  with  us,  wherefore  he  and  we  are 
stil!  at  war,  and  until  he  does  these  things  we 
must  consider  that  we  have  no  other  father  or 
friend  among  the  white  men  than  the  King  of 
France.  But  for  you,  we  have  taken  into  con 
sideration  that  you  have  ventured  among  us 
in  the  expectation  that  we  would  not  molest 
you.  You  tlo  not  come  around  with  the  intention 
to  make  war.  You  come  in  peace  to  trade  with 
us,  and  supply  us  with  necessaries,  of  which  we 
are  in  much  need.  We  shall  regard  you,  therefore, 
as  a  brother.,  and  you  may  sleep  tranquilly  with 
out  fear  of  the  Chippewas.  As  a  token  of  friend 
ship  we  present  you  with  this  pipe  to  smoke." 

Henry  was  afterwards  visited  by  a  party  of  two 
hundred  Ottawa  warriors  from  L'Arbre  Croche,  about 


70  Old  Mackinaw. 

seventy  miles  southwest  of  Mackinaw.     One  of  the 
Chiefs  addressed  him  thus  : — 

"  Englishmen :  We,  the  Ottawas,  were  some  time 
since  informed  of  your  arrival  in  this  country,  and 
of  your  having  brought  with  you  the  goods  we  so 
much  need.  At  this  news  we  were  greatly  pleased, 
believing  that,  through  your  assistance,  our  wives 
and  children  would  be  able  to  pass  another  winter ; 
but,  what  was  our  surprise,  when  a  few  days  ago 
we  were  informed  the  goods  which  we  had  expected 
were  intended  for  us  were  on  the  eve  of  departure 
for  distant  countries,  some  of  which  are  inhabited 
by  our  enemies.  These  accounts  being  spread, 
our  wives  and  children  came  to  us  crying,  and  de 
siring  that  we  should  go  to  the  Fort  to  learn  with 
our  ears  the  truth  or  falsehood.  We  accordingly 
embarked,  almost  naked  as  you  see,  and  on  our 
arrival  here  we  have  inquired  into  the  accounts, 
and  found  them  true.  We  see  your  canoes  ready 
to  depart,  and  find  your  men  engaged  for  the  Mis 
sissippi  and  other  distant  regions.  Under  these  cir 
cumstances  we  have  considered  the  affair,  and  you 
are  now  sent  for  that  you  may  hear  our  determina 
tion,  which  is,  that  you  shall  give  each  of  our  men, 
young  and  old,  merchandise  and  ammunition  to  the 
amount  of  fifty  beaver  skins  on  credit,  and  for  which 


Old  Mackinaw.  71 

I  have  no  doubt  of  their  paying  you  in  the  summer, 
on  their  return  from  their  wintering." 

The  demands  of  the  Indians  upon  the  English, 
and  their  dissatisfaction  arising  therefrom,  had  the 
effect  to  rouse  the  different  tribes,  and  they  were 
noticed  assembling  from  the  surrounding  country  in 
great  numbers,  and  gathering  in  the  vicinity  of 
Mackinaw.  One  night  four  hundred  Indians  lay 
around  the  Fort,  evidently  plotting  mischief.  A 
Chippewa  chief  apprised  Henry  of  the  impending 
danger;  but  when  the  suspicions  were  communi 
cated  to  the  Commandant  of  the  Fort,  Major  Ethe- 
rington,  he  took  no  notice  of  it,  supposing  that  the 
Indians  only  resorted  to  this  for  the  purpose  of  in 
timidation.  The  next  day  being  the  King's  birth 
day,  the  Indians  proposed  to  celebrate  it  by  a  game 
of  laggatiway.  It  was  played  with  bat  and  ball, 
and  the  contestants  were  the  Chippewas  and  Sacs. 
Major  Etherington  was  present  at  the  game,  and  bet 
largely  on  the  side  of  the  Chippewas.  In  the  midst 
of  the  game,  when  all  were  in  a  high  state  of  ex 
citement,  a  warrior  struck  the  ball  and  sent  it  whiz 
zing  over  the  palisade  into  the  Fort.  Instantly  the 
Indian  war  yell  was  heard,  and  the  savages  rushed 
within  the  gate,  not  however  for  the  ball,  but  to 
tomahawk  and  scalp  every  Englishman  within  the 


72  Old  Mackinaw. 

Fort.     The  French  stood  by  as  silent  spectators  of 
the  bloody  scene,  and  were  not  attacked. 

Henry  witnessed  the  dreadful  slaughter  from  his 
window,  and  being  unarmed  he  hastened  out,  and 
springing  over  a  low  fence  which  divided  his  house 
from  that  of  M.  Langlade,  the  French  Interpreter, 
entered  the  latter,  and  requested  some  one  to  direct 
him  to  a  place  of  safety.  Langlade  hearing  the 
request,  replied  that  he  could  do  nothing  for  him. 
At  that  moment  a  slave  belonging  to  Langlade,  of 
the  Pawnee  tribe  of  Indians,  took  him  to  a  door 
which  she  opened,  and  informed  him  that  it  led  to 
the  garret  where  he  might  conceal  himself.  She 
then  locked  the  door  and  took  away  the  key. 
Through  a  hole  in  the  wall  Henry  could  have  a 
complete  view  of  the  Fort.  He  beheld  the  heaps  of 
the  slain,  and  heard  the  savage  yells,  until  the  last 
victim  was  dispatched.  Having  finished  the  work 
of  death  in  the  Fort,  the  Indians  went  out  to  search 
the  houses.  Some  Indians  entered  Langlade's  house 
and  asked  if  there  were  any  Englishmen  con 
cealed  in  it.  He  replied  that  he  did  not  know,  they 
might  search  for  themselves.  At  length  they 
opened  the  garret  door  and  ascended  the  stairs,  but 
Henry  had  concealed  himself  among  a  heap  of 
birch-bark  vessels,  which  had  been  used  in  making 


Old  Mackinaw.  73 

maple  sugar,  and  thus  escaped.  Fatigued  and  ex 
hausted,  he  lay  down  on  a  mat  and  went  to  sleep, 
and  while  in  this  condition  he  was  surprised  by  the 
wife  of  Langlade,  who  remarked  that  the  Indians 
had  killed  all  the  English,  but  she  hoped  he  might 
escape.  Fearing,  however,  that  she  would  fall  a 
prey  to  their  vengeance  if  it  was  found  that  an 
Englishman  was  concealed  in  her  house,  she  at 
length  revealed  the  place  of  Henry's  concealment, 
giving  as  a  reason  therefor,  that  if  he  should  be 
found  her  children  would  be  destroyed.  Unlocking 
the  door,  she  was  followed  by  several  Indians,  who 
were  led  by  Wenniway,  a  noted  chief.  At  sight  of 
him  the  chief  seized  him  with  one  hand,  and  bran 
dishing  a  large  carving  knife,  was  about  to  plunge  it 
into  his  heart,  when  he  dropped  his  arm,  saying,  "  I 
won't  kill  you.  My  brother,  Musinigon,  was  slain 
by  the  English,  and  you  shall  take  his  place  and  be 
called  after  him.''  He  was  carried  to  L'Arbre  Croche 
as  a  prisoner,  where  he  was  rescued  by  a  band  of 
three  hundred  Ottawas,  by  whom  he  was  returned 
to  Mackinaw,  and  finally  ransomed  by  his  Indian 
friend  Wawatam.  At  the  capture  of  the  place 
only  one  trader,  M.  Tracy,  lost  his  life. ,  Captain 
Etherington  was  carried  away  by  some  Indians  from 
the  scene  of  slaughter.  Seventy  of  the  English 
7 


74  Old  Mackinaw. 

troops  were  slain.  An  Englishman,  by  the  name 
of  Solomon,  saved  himself  by  hiding  under  a  heap 
of  corn,  and  his  boy  was  saved  by  creeping  up  a 
chimney,  where  he  remained  two  days.  A  number 
of  canoes,  filled  with  English  traders,  arriving  soon 
after  the  massacre,  they  were  seized,  and  the  tra 
ders,  dragged  through  the  water,  were  beaten  and 
marched  by  the  Indians  to  the  prison  lodge.  After 
they  had  completed  the  work  of  destruction,  the 
Indians,  about  four  hundred  in  number,  entertain 
ing  apprehensions  that  they  would  be  attacked  by 
the  English,  and  the  Indians  who  had  joined  them, 
took  refuge  on  the  Island  of  Mackinac,  Wawatam 
fearing  that  Henry  would  be  butchered  by  the  sa 
vages  in  their  drunken  revels,  took  him  out  to  a  cave, 
where  he  lay  concealed  for  one  night  on  a  heap  of 
human  bones.  As  the  Fort  was  not  destroyed,  it 
was  subsequently  reoccupied  by  British  soldiers, 
and  the  removal  to  the  Island  did  not  take  place 
until  about  the  year  1780. 

Old  Mackinaw,  the  theatre  of  so  many  thrilling 
scenes  and  tragic  incidents,  has  a  history  as  a  white 
settlement,  reaching  back  to  1620,  the  year  of  the 
landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth.  W.  M.  John 
son,  Esq.,  of  Mackinac  Island,  in  describing  its  his 
tory,  says:  "  Mackinaw  City,"  for  such  has  become 


Old  Mackinaw.  75 

the  name  of  this  wonderful  point,  "  with  its  coasts  and 
the  islands  before  it,  has  been  the  theatre  of  some  of 
the  most  exciting  and  interesting  events  in  Indian 
history,  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  'white  man.' 
It  was  the  metropolis  of  a  portion  of  the  Ojibwa  and 
Ottawa  nations.  It  was  there  that  their  Congresses 
met,  to  adopt  a  policy  which  terminated  in  the  con 
quest  of  the  country  south  of  it ;  it  was  there  that 
the  tramping  feet  of  thousands  of  plumed  and 
painted  warriors  shook  Pe-quod-e-nonge — the  In 
dian  name — while  dancing  their  war  dances,  it  was 
from  thence  that  the  startling  sound  of  the  war  yell 
of  these  thousands  was  wafted  to  the  adjacent  coast 
and  islands,  making  the  peaceful  welkin  ring  with 
their  unearthly  shouts  of  victory  or  death. 

"  How  remarkable,  in  reflecting  upon  the  early 
and  sound  judgment  of  the  Indians  in  seizing  upon 
the  points  commanding  all  the  natural  avenues  and 
passes  of  the  Lakes,  when  it  is  considered  that 
there  selections  must  necessarily  have  been  the 
result  of  an  intimate  knowledge  with  the  geogra 
phical  features  of  the  country!  This  has  been 
yearly  proved  by  the  re-occupation  of  posts  and 
places  long  neglected,  but  the  importance  of  which 
has  become  evident  in  proportion  as  we  have  set  a 
just  value  upon  the  Indian's  judgment,  with  the 


j6  Old  Mackinaw. 

natural  advantages  of  the  country.  Perhaps  in  no 
instance,  is  this  more  strikingly  exemplified  than  in 
Mackinaw  City,  the  commanding  position  of  which, 
although  always  known  to  the  Indians,  Traders,  and 
Missionaries,  and  lately  confirmed  by  Military  Sci 
entific  Europeans ;  but  as  yet  not  perceived  by  our  Go 
vernment.  It  is  the  only  point  which  can  control 
the  passage  of  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw,  and  also 
the  Indians  living  in  numerous  villages  south  of  the 
Straits.  The  Island  of  Mackinac  was  merely  occu 
pied  by  the  English  to  escape  a  second  massacre  as 
in  1763  ;  and  which  occupancy  our  Government  has 
blindly  followed,  believing  it,  as  an  evidence  of 
English  military  skill  and  judgment  in  the  selec 
tion  of  commanding  posts,  while  they  at  that  period 
did  not  make  this  selection  with  any  reference  to  a 
future  hostile  maritime  power  who  might  wish  to 
pass,  or  force  a  passage  through  the  Straits. 

"The  land  rises  gradually  from  the  water  at 
Mackinaw  City,  until  it  reaches  an  elevation  of  se 
venty-five  feet,  from  which  beautiful  and  picturesque 
views  are  obtained  of  the  waters  of  the  Straits,  with 
the  numerous  Islands  sleeping  on  its  bosom.  The 
prospect  from  the  City  is  beautiful,  beyond  descrip 
tion — the  Battery  at  New  York  can  only  be  com 
pared  to  it,  which  is  like  it  in  its  location.  The 


SCGAR-LOAF — MACKIXAC. 


MACKIXAC  ISLAND. 

Leap.          2.  Harbor.         3.  Village.         4.  Fort.         5.  Signal.         6.  Sugar  Loaf. 
7.  Mission.         8.  RoUnsou'=  Folly. 


77  Old   Mackinaw. 

visitor  will  enjoy  the  view  presented  of  the  Islands, 
Points,  and  adjacent  shores;  especially  on  a  calm 
day,  for  the  lake,  and  the  green  woods  upon  isle 
and  promontory,  lie  with  a  sleepy  stillness  before 
him,  enhancing  the  beauty  of  the  prospect ;  and 
when  the  mind  contemplates  the  events  of  two 
hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  when  thousands  of  the 
red  sons  of  the  forest  passed  and  repassed  the  site 
upon  which  he  now  stands,  he  will  appreciate  more 
fully  the  rapid  strides  of  civilization. 

"  Two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  bark  canoes 
only  dotted  the  surface  of  the  Lake ;  this  spell  of 
quiet  was  then  broken  a  few  years  afterward  by  the 
boisterous  Canadian  Voyageur  with  his  songs,  as  he 
rowed  or  paddled  his  bateaux  and  large  northwest 
canoe.  Now,  the  roaring  noise  of  the  wheels  of 
steamers,  the  shrill  whistle  of  the  propeller,  and 
the  whitening  sails  of  hundreds  of  vessels  have 
succeeded  to  the  past  age  of  darkness  and  quiet. 
Civilization  and  commerce  have  broken  the  charm 
which  beautified  Indian  scenery  in  years  forever 
gone  by." 

A  work,  published  under  the  auspices  of  the 
Canadian  Government,  in  three  large  octavo  vo 
lumes,  French,  entitled  "Kelations  of  the  Jesuits," 
containing  the  most  remarkable  events  that  tran- 


78  Old  Mackinaw. 

spired  in  the  missions  of  the  Jesuits  in  New  France, 
furnishes  valuable  information  of  the  missions  in 
the  Mackinaw  region.  Among  the  remarkable  phe 
nomena  which  came  under  the  observation  of  the 
Jesuit  Fathers  in  Mackinaw,  was  the  appearance  of 
a  parhelion  on  the  21st  of  January,  1671.  This 
remarkable  phenomenon  occurred  about  two  hours 
before  sunset.  It  presented  the  form  of  a  great  cres 
cent  with  its  points  turned  toward  the  sun.  At  the 
same  time  two  other  suns  appeared,  equidistant 
from  it,  partly  covered  by  a  cloud  having  all  the 
colors  of  the  rainbow,  very  luminous  and  dazzling 
to  the  eye.  The  Indians  said  it  was  a  premonition 
of  great  cold,  which  followed  soon  after.  On  the 
16th  March  the  same  parhelion  appeared,  and  was 
seen  from  three  different  places  more  than  fifty 
leagues  apart.  The  observer  at  the  Mackinaw  mis 
sion  saw  three  suns  distant  some  half  league  from 
each  other.  They  were  seen  twice  the  same  day, 
one  hour  before  sunrise  and  one  hour  before  sunset. 
In  the  morning  they  were  on  the  south  side  of  the 
true  sun,  and  in  the  evening  on  the  west  side.  That 
on  the  south  side  was  so  accurate  that  it  was  difficult 
to  distinguish  it  from  the  true  sun,  excepting  that  it 
was  partly  surrounded  by  a  scarlet  band  on  the  side 
toward  the  sun.  That  on  the  other  side  had  more 


Old  Mackinaw.  79 

the  appearance  of  an  oval  iris  than  a  sun,  neverthe 
less  it  was  an  image  like  those  which  painters  adorn 
with  golden  rays,  giving  it  a  very  magnificent  ap 
pearance. 

The  same  parhelion  was  seen  on  the  island  of 
Manitou  in  Lake  Huron,  and  accompanied  by  a  very 
remarkable  appearance.  Three  suns  appeared  in 
the  west,  parallel  with  the  earth.  They  were  equal 
in  size,  but  not  in  beauty.  The  true  sun  was  west- 
by-southwest,  and  the  false  sun  on  each  side.  At 
the  same  time  were  seen  parts  of  two  circles  parallel 
to  the  horizon,  having  the  colors  of  the  rainbow,  be 
side  a  fourth  part  of  the  circle  perpendicular  to  the 
horizon,  having  nearly  the  same  color,  touched  the 
false  sun,  which  was  in  the  southwest,  and  cutting  the 
half  circle  parallel  to  the  horizon,  was  mingled  and 
lost  in  its  rays.  The  false  suns  disappeared  from 
time  to  time,  and  even  the  true  sun.  Finally,  a 
fourth  sun  was  seen  placed  in  a  right  line.  When 
the  false  suns  disappeared  they  left  after  them  two 
rainbows,  as  beautiful  as  their  own  light.  The  In 
dians,  who  attributed  all  these  signs  to  the  Genii,  and 
who  believe  that  they  are  married,  wanted  to  know 
of  the  missionary  if  these  were  not  the  wives  of 
the  sun.  At  this  question  it  occurred  to  him  that  a 
favorable  opportunity  was  presented  for  explaining 


80  Old  Mackinaw. 

to  them  the  mysteries  of  the  Trinity.  On  the  next 
day  the  Indian  women,  who  before  would  not  come 
to  hear  prayers,  came  and  presented  their  children 
to  be  baptized. 

At  the  Saut  St.  Mary,  seven  false  suns  appeared 
around  the  true  sun.  The  true  sun  was  in  the  centre 
of  a  circle  formed  by  the  colors  of  the  rainbow.  On 
either  side  were  two  false  suns,  and  also  one  above 
and  one  below.  These  four  were  placed  on  the  cir 
cumference  of  the  circle,  and  at  equal  distances  di 
rectly  opposite  from  each  other.  Beside  this,  another 
circle  of  the  same  color  as  the  first,  but  much  larger, 
rested  the  upper  part  of  its  circumference  in  the 
centre  of  the  true  sun,  while  below  and  on  either  side 
were  the  false  suns.  All  these  eight  luminaries  made 
a  grand  spectacle. 

Auroras,  even  in  midsummer,  are  of  frequent  oc 
currence,  and  exhibit  a  brilliancy  and  extent  rarely 
observed  in  lower  latitudes.  The  phenomena  which 
most  frequently  occur  are  the  following:  A  dark 
cloud  tinged  on  the  upper  edge  with  a  pale  lumin 
ous  haze,  skirts  the  northern  horizon.  From  this 
streaks  of  orange  and  blue  colored  light  flash  up, 
and  often  reach  a  point  south  of  the  zenith.  They 
rapidly  increase  and  decrease,  giving  to  the  whole 
hemisphere  the  appearance  of  luminous  waves  and 


Old  Mackinaw.  81 

occasionally  forming  perfect  corona.  They  com 
mence  shortly  after  sunset  and  continue  during  the 
night.  The  voyagers  regard  them  as  the  precursors 
of  storms  and  gales,  a  ad  our  own  observations  have 
confirmed  the  result.  Occasionally  broad  belts  of 
light  are  seen  spanning  the  whole  arc  of  the  heavens, 
of  sufficient  brilliancy  to  enable  one  to  read.  In  the 
winter  these  phenomena  are  much  more  frequent, 
and  the  ground  appears  tinged  with  a  crimson  hue. 

We  find  in  these  relations  of  the  Jesuits  other 
matters  of  equal  interest.  The  fathers  of  the  mis 
sions  in  and  around  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw  gave  it 
as  their  opinion,  that  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior 
entered  into  the  Straits  by  a  subterranean  passage, 
and  in  support  of  it,  mention  the  wonderful  fact 
that  the  current  floats  against  the  wind,  and  not 
withstanding  it  drives  furiously  in  one  direction,  ves 
sels  are  enabled  to  sail  in  a  contrary  direction  as 
rapidly  as  though  the  wind  were  not  blowing.  In 
addition  to  this,  they  refer  to  the  constant  boiling 
up  of  the  waters.  Without  admitting  this  theory, 
they  affirmed  that  it  was  impossible  to  explain  two 
things.  The  first  is,  that  without  such  subterranean 
passage  it  is  impossible  to  tell  what  becomes  of  the 
waters  of  Lake  Superior.  This  vast  lake  has  but 
one  visible  outlet,  namely,  the  river  of  the  Saut, 


82  Old  Mackinaw. 

while  it  receives  into  its  bosom  the  waters  of  a  large 
number  of  rivers,  some  twelve  of  which  are  of 
greater  dimensions  than  the  Saut.  What  then,  they 
ask,  becomes  of  all  these  waters  if  they  do  not  find 
an  issue  through  a  subterranean  river.  The  second 
reason  for  their  belief  in  this  theory  is  the  impossi 
bility  to  explain  from  whence  come  the  waters  of 
Lake  Huron  and  Lake  Michigan  ?  But  very  few 
rivers  flow  into  these  lakes,  and  their  size  is  such  as 
to  justify  the  belief  that  they  must  be  supplied 
through  the  subterranean  river  entering  into  the 
Straits. 


CHAPTER  Y. 

Island  of  the  Giant  Fairies — Possession  by  the  English — Erec 
tion  of  Government  house — French  remain  at  Old  Mackinaw 
— Finally  abandoned — Extent  of  the  Island — History — De 
scription —  Natural  curiosities  —  Arch  Rock — Sugar  Loaf 
Rock — Scull  Rock — Dousman's  Farm — Davenport's  Farm — 
Robinson's  Folly— The  Devil's  Punch  Bowl— Healthful  at 
mosphere — Transparency  of  the  waters — Compared  with  Sa 
ratoga,  Cape  May,  and  Mt.  Washington  as  a  point  for  health 
and  recreation — Description  of  a  traveler  in  1854 — Arrival 
of  steamers  and  sailing  vessels  at  the  port  during  the  year 
Mr.  Johnson's  reminiscences — Indian  name  of  Island — My 
thology — Three  brothers  of  the  great  Genii — Visit  to  the  sub 
terranean  abode  of  the  Genii — Vision — Apostrophe  of  an  old 
Indian  Chief— Old  buildings — Door  of  Marquette's  Chapel — 
John  Jacob  Astor  and  the  fur  trade — Present  support  of  the 
place— Fort  Mackinaw— Fort  Holmes— Fine  view — Interest 
ing  localities— War  of  1812— Death  of  Major  Holmes— Soil 
of  the  Island. 

THE  old  fort  having  been  deserted  by  the  English, 
as  we  have  noticed  in  a  previous  chapter,  and  they 
having  fled  to  the  Island  of  Mackinaw,  which,  in  the 

(83) 


84  Old    Mackinaw 

Indian  name,  signifies  Island  of  the  giant  fairies,  pre 
parations  were  made  for  a  settlement.  Sir  "Wm. 
Johnston  called  a  grand  council  with  those  Indians 
who  had  been  engaged  in  the  massacre  at  Old  Macki 
naw.  By  this  council,  which  was  held  in  1764,  the 
spring  following  the  siege,  a  way  was  opened  for 
St.  Clair  to  negotiate  for  the  island,  and  also  for  the 
grants  previously  made  by  the  Indians  to  the 
French  for  military  purposes.  The  first  thing  done 
after  the  island  had  been  obtained  was  the  erection 
of  a  government  house.  The  French  and  others 
who  still  remained  at  Old  Mackinaw,  amounting 
only  to  about  three  hundred,  continued  a  few  years, 
when  they  finally  left,  and  everything  was  suffered 
to  go  into  decay.  A  desolation  reigned  over  it  for 
many  years,  and,  on  account  of  the  bloody  siege,  that 
point,  which  was  the  most  attractive  as  well  as  the 
most  important  to  Indians,  French,  and  English  in 
all  the  Lake  region  was,  as  if  by  common  consent, 
abandoned. 

The  " New  Mackinaw,"  as  it  is  called,  distant  seven 
miles  from  the  Old,  is  on  an  island  about  nine  miles  in 
circumference,  and  covers  an  area  of  six  thousand 
acres.  Its  extreme  elevation  above  the  lake  is  about 
three  hundred  and  twelve  feet.  The  village  and  for 
tress  are  situated  on  the  southeastern  extremity  of 


AliCH  ROCK. 


ROCK    CASTLE— PICTCRED    ROCKS. 


Old  Mackinaw.  85 

the  island,  where  there  is  a  good  harbor  protected  by 
a  water  battery.  The  island  remained  in  possession 
of  the  British  until  1793,  when  it  was  surrendered  to 
the  United  States.  It  was  retaken  in  1812,  but  re 
stored  again  by  the  treaty  of  Ghent,  in  1814.  It  is  sit 
uated  in  North  lat.  45°  54',  West  Ion.  84°  30'  from 
Greenwich,  being  7°  30'  west  from  Washington.  It 
is  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  north  of  Chicago 
and  about  three  hundred  miles  north  from  Detroit, 
and  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  west  of  Col- 
lings  wood,  Canada.  The  fort  stands  on  an  elevated 
ground  about  two  hundred  feet  above  the  water. 
The  town  contains  at  present  three  hotels,  six  board 
ing  houses,  eight  dry-goods  stores,  and  seven  groce 
ries.  Its  public  buildings  are  a  Court  House,  Jail, 
Custom  House,  Post  Office,  and  Express  Office. 
There  are  two  Churches,  the  Eoman  Catholic  and 
Presbyterian. 

The  first  thing  we  shall  notice  as  a  natural  attrac 
tion  on  the  island,  is  what  is  called  "  The  Arch  Eock." 
This  is  a  natural  arch  projecting  from  the  precipice 
on  the  northeastern  side  of  the  island,  about  a  mile 
from  the  fort,  and  elevated  about  one  hundred  and 
forty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water.  Its  abut 
ments  are  formed  of  calcareous  rock,  and  have  been 
produced  by  the  falling  down  of  great  masses  of 


86  Old  Mackinaw. 

rock,  leaving  a  chasm  of  eighty  or  ninety  feet  in 
height,  and  covered  by  the  arch  which  spans  it  of 
fifty  or  sixty  feet  sweep.  The  scene  presented  by 
cliff  and  chasm  is  one  of  wild  grandeur.  Like  the 
Natural  Bridge  of  Virginia,  it  possesses  an  attraction 
to  all  fond  of  natural  curiosities,  sufficient  of  itself 
to  justify  a  visit  to  the  northern  lakes.  The  view 
from  the  beach  is  particularly  grand.  Before  you  is 
a  magnificent  arch  suspended  in  mid  air.  Indian 
tradition  says  that  this  wonderful  arch  was  formed 
by  the  giant  spirits  who  inhabited  this  island.  Geo 
logical  tradition,  however,  indicates  that  it  was 
formed  by  the  action  of  the  waters,  which  were  at  a 
remote  period  much  higher  than  at  the  present 
time. 

The  next  object  which  strikes  the  attention  of  the 
visitors  is  the  "  Sugar  Loaf  Eock,"  a  high,  isolated, 
conical  rock  which,  resting  upon  the  elevated  pla 
teau  that  forms  the  next  highest  point  of  the  island 
from  that  of  Fort  Holmes,  exhibits  a  rise  of  some 
sixty  to  eighty  feet.  This  is  but  little  less  than  the 
elevation  of  the  ridge  which  forms  the  crowning- 
plan  of  the  island,  and  upon  which  the  dismantled 
post  of  Fort  Holmes  is  seen,  being  separated  there 
from  by  a  distance  not  exceeding  one  hundred  and 
fifty  yards.  By  what  violent  throe  of  nature  it 


Old  Mackinaw.  87 

has  become  severed  from  the  adjacent  ridge,  of 
which  it  no  doubt,  formed  a  part,  is  matter  of  curi 
ous  inquiry.  Has  nature  done  this  by  gradual  re 
cession,  or  by  the  slow  upheaval  of  the  land  ?  On 
inspection,  this  rock  is  found  cavernous,  slightly 
crystalline,  with  its  strata  distorted  in  every  con 
ceivable  direction.  In  its  crevices  grow  a  few  ce 
dars  and  vines.  As  the  visitor  approaches  it  by  the 
road  side  its  effect  is  grand  and  imposing;  still 
more  so,  perhaps,  when  beheld  from  the  top  of  the 
ridge,  where  its  isolated  position  with  its  bold  form, 
breaking  the  outline  of  the  island,  strikes  the  be 
holder  with  wonder  and  admiration. 

Robinson's  Folly  is  a  high  bluff,  northeast  from 
the  village  of  Mackinaw,  half  a  mile  from  the  mis 
sion  house.  Soon  after  the  settlement  of  the  modern 
Mackinaw,  Capt.  Robinson,  of  the  English  army,  then 
commanding  this  port,  had  a  summer  house  built  on 
the  brow  of  this  bluff)  now  called  Robinson's  Folly, 
for  the  purpose  of  enjoying  the  prospect  from  that  cool 
and  elevated  spot.  Often  he  and  his  brother  officers 
resorted  there  during  the  summer  days,  to  while 
away  lonely  and  tedious  hours.  Pipes,  cigars,  and 
wine,  were  brought  into  requisition.  No  Englishman 
at  that  period  was  without  them ;  in  fact,  no  hospi 
tality  or  entertainment  was  complete  without  them. 


88  Old  Mackinaw. 

They  were  indeed  isolated ;  the  nearest  white  settle 
ments  being  then  Detroit,  Green  Bay.  Saut  St. 
Mary,  and  Chicago.  Communications  with  these 
places  were  not  frequent. 

A  few  years  after,  from  the  action  of  the  elements, 
the  brow  of  the  bluff',  where  Robinson's  Folly  stood, 
was  precipitated  to  the  base  of  the  rock,  where  the 
fragments  can  now  be  seen,  which  disastrous  event 
gave  rise  to  its  name. 

The  "  Scull  Rock,"  half  a  mile  or  three  quarters 
northwest  from  the  rear  of  Fort  Mackinaw,  is  chiefly 
noted  for  a  cavern,  which  appears  to  have  been  a 
receptacle  for  human  bones,  many  of  which  were 
still  to  be  observed  about  its  mouth  a  few  years  ago. 
The  entrance  is  low  and  narrow,  and  seems  to  promise 
little  to  reward  the  labors  of  exploration.  It  is 
here  probably  that  Alexander  Henry  was  secreted  by 
the  chief  Wawatam  after  the  horrid  massacre  of  the 
British  garrison  at  Old  Mackinaw. 

Chimney  Rock  well  repays  the  trouble  of  a  visit, 
with  the  other  points  of  interest  on  the  island. 

Dousman's  Farm,  two  miles  west  from  the  Village 
of  Mackinaw,  consists  of  a  section  of  land ;  the  road 
to  the  English  or  British  landing  passes  through 
it,  also  to  Scott's  or  Fl inn's  Cave,  which  is  on  the 
northwestern  portion  of  the  farm.  There  are  three 


Old  Mackinaw.  89 

springs  of  cold  delicious  water  on  this  farm,  two  of 
them  are  shaded  by  beech  and  maple  trees.  This 
farm  yields  yearly  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  tons 
of  hay,  besides  a  large  quantity  of  potatoes  and  other 
farm  produce. 

Davenport's  Farm,  about  one  and  a  half  miles 
from  the  village,  is  situated  on  the  southwestern  por 
tion  of  the  Island.  At  the  base  of  the  bluff,  on  the 
south  part  of  this  farm,  is  the  Devil's  Caves,  and  near 
them  is  a  beautiful  spring  of  clear  cold  water,  shaded 
by  evergreens  and  other  trees.  Half  way  up  the  bluff, 
which  is  nearly,  if  not  fully,  three  hundred  feet  high 
at  this  point ;  stands  out,  detached  from  the  lime 
stone,  an  isolated  rock,  in  appearance  similar  to 
the  Sugar  Loaf  Reck,  which  some  persons  have 
called  the  Lover's  Leap ;  it  is  worth  the  trouble  of 
a  visit,  which  a  few  minutes  walk  from  the  vil 
lage  accomplishes.  There  are  several  points  called 
Lover's  Leap,  so  called  by  romantic  visitors,  within 
the  last  few  years.  A  gentleman  from  Chicago,  has 
purchased  this  farm,  and  report  says  that  several 
summer-houses  are  to  be  built  upon  it,  which  will 
enhance  the  beauty  of  this  locality. 

Wm.  M.  Johnston  Esq.,  furnishes  the  following 
tradition  of  Lover's  Leap : 

"The  huge  rock  called  the  '  Lover's  Leap'  is  situated 
8* 


90  Old  Mackinaw. 

about  one  mile  west  of  the  village  of  Mackinaw.  It 
is  a  high  perpendicular  bluff,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
to  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  rising  boldly  from 
the  shore  of  the  lake.  A  solitary  pine  tree  formerly 
stood  upon  its  brow,  which  some  Vandal  has  cut 
down. 

"  Long  before  the  pale  faces  profaned  this  island 
home  of  the  Genii,  a  young  Ojibwa  girl,  just  ma 
turing  into  womanhood,  often  wandered  there;  and 
gazed  from  its  dizzy  heights  and  witnessed  the  re 
ceding  canoes  of  the  large  war  parties  of  the  com 
bined  bands  of  the  Ojibwas  and  Ottawas  speeding 
south,  seeking  for  fame  and  scalps. 

"It  was  there  she  often  sat,  mused  and  hummed 
the  songs  Ge-niw-e-gwon  loved ;  this  spot  was  en 
deared  to  her,  for  it  was  there  that  she  and  Ge-niw- 
e-gwon  first  met  and  exchanged  words  of  love,  and 
found  an  affinity  of  souls  existing  between  them.  It 
was  there  she  often  sat  and  sang  the  Ojibwa  love 
song— 

'  Mong-e-do-gwain,  iii-de-nain-dum, 
Mong-e-do-gwain,  in-de-nain-dum, 
Wain-sliung-ish-ween,  neen-e-mo-shane, 
Wain-slmng-ish-ween,  neen-e-mo-shane, 
A-nee-wau-wau-sau-bo-a-zode, 
A-iiee-wau-wau-sau-bo-a-zode. ' 

I  give  but  one  verse,  which  may  be  translated  as 
follows : 


Old  Mackinaw.  91 

A  loon,  I  thought  was  looming, 

A  loon,  I  thought  was  looming  : 

Why  !  it  is  he,  my  lover, 

Why  !  it  is  he,  my  lover  ; 

His  paddle,  in  the  waters  gleaming, 

His  paddle  in  the  waters  gleaming. 

"  From  this  bluff  she  often  watched  and  listened 
for  the  return  of  the  war  parties,  for  amongst  them 
she  knew  was  Ge-niw-e-gwon ;  his  head  decorated  with 
war-eagle  plumes,  which  none  but  a  brave  could 
sport.  The  west  wind  often  wafted  far  in  advance 
the  shouts  of  victory  and  death,  as  they  shouted  and 
sang  upon  leaving  Pe-quod-e-nong  (Old  Mackinaw), 
to  make  the  traverse  to  the  Spirit,  or  Fairiy  Is 
land. 

"  One  season,  when  the  war  party  returned,  she 
could  not  distinguish  his  familiar  and  loving  war 
shout.  Her  spirit,  told  her  that  he  had  gone  to  the 
Spirit-Land  of  the  west.  It  was  so :  an  enemy's  ar 
row  had  pierced  his  breast,  and  after  his  body  was 
placed  leaning  against  a  tree,  his  face  fronting  his 
enemies,  he  died ;  but  ere  he  died  he  wished  the 
mourning  warriors  to  remember  him  to  the  sweet 
maid  of  his  heart.  Thus  he  died  far  away  from 
home  and  the  friends  he  loved. 

f<  Me-she-ne-mock-e-nung-o-qua's  heart  hushed  its 


92  Old  Mackinaw. 

beatings,  and  all  the  warm  emotions  of  that  heart, 
were  chilled  and  dead.  The  moving,  living  spirit 
of  her  beloved  Ge-niw-e-gwon,  she  witnessed  con 
tinually  beckoning  her  to  follow  him  to  the  happy 
hunting  grounds  of  spirits  in  the  west — he  appeared 
to  her  in  human  shape,  but  was  invisible  to  others 
of  his  tribe. 

"  One  morning  her  body  was  found  mangled  at  the 
foot  of  the  bluff.  The  soul  had  thrown  aside  its 
covering  of  earth,  and  had  gone  to  join  the  spirit  of 
her  beloved  Ge-niw-e-gwon,  to  travel  together  to  the 
land  of  spirits." 

Another  point  of  interest  and  curiosity  is  the 
Devil's  Punch  Bowl,  situated  south  from  the  gate 
way,  as  you  enter  the  farm  of  the  late  J.  Dousman, 
Esq. 

This  Island  which  rises  like  a  gem  on  the  brow 
of  the  lakes,  is  favored  by  the  clearest  and  most  health 
ful  atmosphere,  and  washed  by  the  purest  and  most 
transparent  water  in  the  world,  imparting  the  most 
pleasurable  sensations  imaginable.  When  this  en 
chanting  region  shall  become  fully  known,  Saratoga, 
Cape  May,  and  Mount  Washington  will  be  forgot 
ten  by  those  who  fly  from  the  heat  and  dust  of  our 
inland  cities,  to  breathe  a  pure  air  and  drink  health- 
giving  waters. 


Old  Mackinaw.  93 

A  traveler  in  1854,  thus  describes  this  interesting 
locality,  "  Everything  on  the  island  is  a  curiosity,  the 
roads  or  streets  that  wind  around  the  harbor  or 
among  the  grove-like  forests  of  the  island,  are  na 
turally  pebbled  and  macadamized,  the  buildings  are 
of  every  style,  from  an  Indian  lodge  to  an  English 
house,  the  island  is  covered  with  charming  natural 
scenery,  from  the  beautiful  to  the  grand,  and  one 
may  spend  weeks  constantly  finding  new  objects  of 
interest,  and  new  scenes  of  beauty.  The  steamers 
all  call  here  on  their  way  to  and  from  Chicago,  and 
hundreds  of  small  sail  vessels  in  the  fishing  trade 
have  here  their  head  quarters.  Drawn  upon  the 
pebbled  beach,  or  gliding  about  the  bay,  are  bark 
canoes,  and  the  far-famed  Mackinaw  boats,  without 
number.  These  last  are  the  perfection  of  light  sail 
boats,  and  I  have  often  been  astonished  at  seeing 
them  far  out  in  the  lake,  beating  up  against  winds 
that  were  next  to  gales." 

We  are  indebted  to  Mr.  Johnston  for  the  following 
official  list,  giving  the  number  of  sail  vessels  and 
steamers  that  have  passed  through  the  Straits  of  Mac 
kinaw  during  the  day  time,  as  reported  to  the  Eeve- 
nue  department,  for  six  months,  ending  September 
30th,  1859. 


94  Old  Mackinaw. 

Barques.  Brigs.  Sclir's.  Steamers. 

April,  14  9  101  47 

May 9  11  177  82 

June, 15  13  221  194 

Next3mon's9S  61  764  353 

136  94  1263  586 

Total,  2079. 

It  would  be  a  pretty  correct  estimate  to  add  at 
least  one-third  more  of  the  total  number  for  those 
that  passed  during  the  night, — which  would  be  a 
very  low  estimate  of  the  shipping  passing  through 
our  straits. 

But  few  of  the  vessels  passing  through  the  straits 
leave  the  main  channel,  and  go  to  the  island  some 
miles  out  of  the  way. 

The  lake  traffic  has  of  late  years  become  per 
fectly  enormous,  the  increase  of  the  western  naviga 
tion  being  unprecedented.  For  example,  three 
thousand  and  sixty-five  steamers  passed  up  from 
Lake  Erie  to  Lakes  Huron  and  Superior,  by  Detroit, 
in  1859,  and  three  thousand  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
one  passed  down.  The  greatest  number  up  in  a  single 
day  was  eighty-five — down  seventy-three.  Detroit 
statistics  show  that  five  steamers,  five  propellers, 
four  barques,  seven  brigs,  and  eighty-five  schooners 
have  been  more  or  less  engaged  in  the  Lake  Supe 
rior  trade  during  the  past  season.  Forty  vessels  left 


Old  Mackinaw.  g$ 

during  the  season  for  European  and  seaboard  ports, 
some  of  which  have  returned,  and  one  has  taken  her 
second  departure.  Navigation  at  Detroit  opened 
March  14th,  and  closed  December  15th. 

"William  Johnston,  Esq.,  who  has  long  resided  on 
the  island,  says :  '  The  Indians,  from  the  earliest 
times,  have  always  regarded  the  Island  of  Mackinaw 
with  veneration.  The  Indian  name  is  '  Moc-che-ne- 
mock-e-nug-gonge,'  which,  as  before  stated,  signifies 
Island  of  Great  or  Giant  Fairies. 

"  Indian  mythology  relates  that  three  brothers  of 
great  or  giant  Fairies,  occupied  different  Islands  in 
this  section  of  the  country.  The  eldest  occupied  the  Is 
land  Missillimackinac,  the  second  lived  on  the  Island 
Tim-au  Rin-ange-onge,  in  Lake  Michigan,  now  called 
Pottawattime  Island,  the  youngest  inhabited  an 
Island  called  Pe-quoge-me-nis,  in  Lake  Huron.  The 
heathen  Indians,  to  this  day,  look  upon  them  with 
awe  and  veneration,  and  in  passing  to  and  fro, 
by  their  shores,  still  offer  to  the  Great  Spirits  to 
bacco  and  other  offerings,  to  propitiate  their  good 
will.  The  stories  they  relate  of  these  Great  Fairies, 
are  very  interesting  and  worthy  of  record. 

"The  present  southern  gate  of  Fort  Mackinac 
overlooks  the  spot,  where  in  olden  times  a  door  ex 
isted,  to  the  entrance  of  the  subterraneous  abode  of 


96  Old  Mackinaw. 

these  Giant  Fairies.  An  Indian  Chees-a-kee,  or 
spiritualist,  who  once  encamped  within  the  limits  of 
the  present  garrison,  related,  that  some  time  during 
the  night,  after  he  had  fallen  asleep,  a  fairy  touched 
him  and  beckoned  him  to  follow.  He  obeyed  and 
his  spirit  went  with  the  fairy ;  they  entered  the  sub 
terraneous  abode,  through  an  opening  beneath  the 
present  gate  near  the  base  of  the  hill.  He  there 
witnessed  the  giant  spirits  in  solemn  conclave  in 
what  appeared  to  be  a  large  beautiful  wigwam. 
After  being  there  some  time,  lost  in  wonder  and 
admiration,  the  chief  spirit  directed  one  of  the  lesser 
ones,  to  show  the  Indian  spirit  out  and  conduct  him 
back  to  his  body.  This  Indian  could  never  be  in 
duced  to  divulge  the  particulars  of  what  he  witnessed 
in  his  mysterious  visit. 

An  old  Indian  chief  upon  leaving  this  island,  to 
visit  his  friends  in  Lake  Superior,  thus  soliloquized, 
as  he  sat  on  the  deck  of  McKnight's  splendid  steamer, 
the  Illinois,  while  the  darkness  began  dimly  to 
shadow  forth  the  deep  blue  outlines  of  the  island : 

"  '  Moc-che-ne-mock-e-nug-gonge,  thou  Isle  of  the 
clear,  deep-water  Lake,  how,  soothing  it  is  from  amidst 
the  curling  smoke  of  my  opawgun  (pipe),  to  trace  thy 
deep  blue  outlines  in  the  distance ;  to  call  from 
memory's  tablets  the  traditions  and  stories  connected 


Old  Mackinaw.  97 

with  thy  sacred  and  mystic  character,  how  sacred 
the  regard,  with  which  thou  hast  been  once  clothed 
by  our  Indian  seers  of  gone-by  days  ;  how,  pleasant 
in  imagination  for  the  mind  to  picture  and  view,  as 
if  now  present,  the  time  when  the  Great  Spirit  al 
lowed  a  peaceful  stillness  to  dwell  around  thee,  when 
only  light  and  balmy  winds  were  permitted  to  pass 
over  thee,  hardly  ruffling  the  mirror  surface  of  the 
waters  that  surrounded  thee.  Nothing  then  dis 
turbed  thy  quiet  and  deep  solitude,  but  the  chip- 
peri  ng  of  birds,  and  the  rustling  of  the  leaves  of  the 
silver-barked  birch ;  or  to  hear,  by  evening  twilight 
the  sound  of  the  giant  Fairies  as  they  with  rapid 
step,  and  giddy  whirl,  dance  their  mystic  dance 
on  thy  lime-stone  battlements.' 

•'Several  old  buildings  are  now  standing,  the  frames 
of  which  were  brought  from  old  Mackinaw  in  the 
year  1764,  which  gives  an  odd  and  venerable  appear 
ance  to  the  village.  Mr.  Schoolcraft  had  the  door  of 
Marquette's  Chapel  pointed  out  to  him,  which  had 
been  brought  over  from  Mackinaw,  and  hung  to 
one  of  the  edifices  of  the  town. 

"  The  village  formely  received  its  greatest  support 
from  the  fur  trade,  when  in   the  hands  of  the  late 
John  Jacob  Astor,  Esq.,  being,  at  that  time,  the  out 
fitting  and  furnishing  place  for  the  Indian  trade.  His 
9 


98  Old  Mackinaw. 

outfits  extended  then  to  the  head  waters  of  the 
Mississippi;  on  the  northwest,  south  to  Chicago, 
southwest  by  the  way  of  Green  Bay,  to  the  Mis 
sissippi,  and  Missouri  Eivers,  in  fact  his  business  was 
carried  on  throughout  all  the  then  northwest  Indian 
country.  This  trade  became  extinct  in  1834,  when 
Mr.  Astor,  sold  out  to  Eamsey  Crooks,  Esq.,  of  New 
York,  and  others,  but  it  lacked  the  energy  and  con 
trolling  influence  which  had  been  characteristic  of 
Mr.  Astor's  business,  and  after  languishing  a  few 
years,  the  new  company  became  involved  and  their 
outposts  were  discontinued. 

"  The  place  since  then  has  been  mostly  supported 
from  the  fisheries,  which  are  excellent  and  exten 
sive.  It  is  estimated  that  twenty  thousand  barrels 
of  white  fish  and  trout  are  exported  from  this  coun 
try  alone  annually,  estimated  worth,  at  this  point, 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars.  A 
material  support  is  also  derived  from  the  immense 
amount  of  trade. 

"  The  population  is  fluctuating,  owing  to  the  influx 
of  strangers  seeking  health,  traders,  and  Indians ;  but 
the  permanent  inhabitants  of  the  village  are  about 
one  thousand  and  fourteen,  as  per  census  of  1854. 

"Fort  Mackinac  stands  on  a  rocky  eminence  im 
mediately  above  the  town,  and  is  at  present  gar- 


Old  Mackinaw.  99 

risoned  by  a  company  of  United  States  troops  :  a 
chaplain  (Episcopalian)  is  attached  to  the  garrison, 
and  services  are  held  there  every  Sabbath.  Fort 
Holmes  occupies  the  highest  bluff'  of  the  island,  and 
is  not  at  present  occupied :  this  fortress  was  erected 
by  the  English,  while  they  held  possession  of  the 
island,  during  the  last  war,  and  by  them  named 
Fort  George.  But  after  the  surrender  of  the  island 
in  1814,  the  name  was  altered  in  compliment  to  the 
memory  of  Major  Holmes  of  the  United  States  Army, 
who  fell  in  the  unfortunate  attack  upon  the  island 
by  Col.  Croghan.  The  gallant  Holmes  was  killed  a 
little  below  the  rise  of  ground,  as  you  descend  to 
ward  the  Dousman  farm-house,  on  your  way  to  the 
British  landing.  On  Fort  Holmes  is  a  triangular 
station  for  the  government  engineers,  who  have  been 
at  work  some  years  in  the  straits. 

"Visitors  mounting  the  station  on  a  still  clear  day, 
have  a  view  of  this  island,  the  straits  with  its  curves, 
islands  and  points,  and  the  adjacent  shores,  which 
well  repays  them,  especially  on  a  calm  day,  for  the 
lake  and  green  woods  lie  in  stillness  before  them, 
taking  the  mind  for  hundreds  of  years  back,  to  the 
time  when  thousands  of  warriors  occupied  the  pro 
minent  points  brought  within  view. 

"  Off'  to  the  northwest,  some  four  or  five  miles,  lies 


100  Old  Mackinaw. 

the  mixed  Canadian  and  Indian  settlement  of  Point 
St.  Ignace  and  Moran  Bay,  with  a  few  farms,  which 
give  a  more  agreeable  view  to  the  otherwise  same 
ness  of  wood  and  water.  There  the  Indians,  called 
the  Au-se-gum-ugs,  lived  until  driven  away  by  the 
Ojibwas  and  Ottawas,  as  they  extended  their  con 
quests  south  and  west.  There  also  the  Iroquois 
were  permitted  to  locate  and  live  before  the  French 
reached  and  settled  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  there 
some  of  the  Iroquois  were  massacred  and  driven  off 
by  the  Ojibwas  and  Ottawas.  North  of  this  can  be 
seen  the  outlines  of  the  bluff  called  "  Eabbit  Sitting," 
northeasterly  the  St.  Martin  Islands,  the  entrance 
of  the  Chenoux,  and  the  dividing  ridge  between  this 
and  the  Saut  St.  Mary.  On  the  northeast  can  be 
seen  the  Detour,  and  to  the  south,  Bois  Blanc  Light- 
House,  and  the  Cheboy-e-gun  ;  and  on  the  west  the 
Straits  of  Lake  Michigan,  with  Waugoohance  Point 
and  Light-House. 

"  To  the  northwest  of  the  ridge,  where  the  woods 
slope  by  a  gradual  descent  to  the  shores  of  the  Island, 
is  the  place  at  which  the  English  in  the  last  war 
(1812),  from  six  to  eight  hundred  strong,  composed 
of  a  few  English,  Canadians,  the  majority  being  In 
dians,  landed  at  night,  and  having  secured  Michael 
Dousman's  cattle,  at  his  farm  adjoining  the  landing, 


Old  Mackinaw.  101 

and  succeeded  during  the  night  in  reaching  the  hol 
low,  which  may  be  seen  on  the  way  from  Fort 
Mackinac  to  Fort  Holmes,  a  little  northwest  of  the 
present  parade-ground,  or  nearly  opposite  the  north 
west  rear  gate  of  the  present  fort,  with  their  cannon, 
which  by  daylight,  was  placed  in  battery  on  the 
knoll  south  of  the  hollow  before  alluded  to,  which  by 
its  position  completely  commanded  the  western  gate 
and  the  garrison  itself,  took  their  station. 

"At  dawn  the  citizens  of  the  village  were  roused, 
and  told  to  flee  to  a  place  called  the  Distillery,  west 
of  the  present  village,  as  the  English  troops  were 
about  to  attack  the  American  fort,  and  that  the 
English  commanding  officer  had  pledged  his  word  for 
the  safety  of  the  lives  of  those  citizens  who  would 
flee  to  the  place  designated.  This  was  the  first  inti 
mation  the  citizens  had  of  war  being  declared  be 
tween  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  Soon 
a  cannon  shot  was  fired  over  the  fort,  its  booming 
being  also  the  first  intimation  the  American  garri 
son  had  of  the  country  being  in  a  state  of  war.  An 
English  officer  appeared  with  a  flag  to  summon  the 
garrison  to  surrender,  stating  the  overwhelming 
force  they  had  in  command.  The  American  garri 
son,  being  short  of  one  full  company  of  men,  was 
surrendered,  and  the  few  troops  taken  and  sent  to 
9* 


102  Old  Mackinaw. 

Detroit  on  parole.  After  this  the  English  built  and 
occupied  Fort  George,  (now  called  Fort  Holmes)  be 
tween  the  years  1812  and  1814.  The  English  gov 
ernment  paid  ten  thousand  pounds  as  prize-money 
to  the  volunteers  and  soldiers,  and  merchandise  and 
arms  to  the  Indians.  In  the  year  1836  I  examined 
the  list  or  pay-roll  for  this  prize-money ;  the  names 
of  all  those  who  participated  in  the  taking  of  Fort 
Mackinac  were  there  enrolled,  the  money  was  di 
vided  according  to  rank,  and  each  person  receipted 
for  his  individual  share. 

"  It  is  worth  knowing,  that  by  the  treaty  of  Paris,  of 
1783,  acknowledging  the  independence  of  the  United 
States,  and  fixing  its  boundaries,  Fort  Mackinac 
fell  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  United  States,  and 
was  surrendered,  according  to  McKenzie,  in  1794. 
In  1812  it  was  taken,  as  before  stated,  by  the  English 
and  their  Indian  allies.  It  resisted  an  attack  from 
a  strong  detachment  of  the  American  army  and 
navy  in  1814,  under  Col.  Croghan,  and  was  finally 
restored  to  the  United  States  by  the  treaty  of 
Ghent. 

"In  1814  Col. Croghan  landed  at  the  English  Land 
ing,  under  cover  of  the  guns  of  the  American  ves 
sels.  The  troops  moved  from  the  landing,  arid  had 
reached  Mr.  M.  Dousman's  farm-house.  The  skirm 


Old  Mackinaw.  103 

ishing  with  the  English  and  Indians  had  already 
commenced.  East  from  the  house  is  a  ridge  over 
which  the  road  lay.  On  this  ridge  and  back  of  it, 
also  on  each  side  of  the  road,  the  English  were 
posted  in  force.  The  gallant  Major  Holmes,  on 
reaching  the  clearing  near  the  house,  formed  his 
men  for  a  charge  upon  the  enemy  posted  on  the 
ridge.  To  encourage  his  troops  he  led  the  charge. 
The  English  and  Indians,  seeing  the  strong  force, 
had  commenced  retreating,  when  an  English  ser 
geant  thought  he  might  as  well  discharge  the  cannon 
before  retreating  with  his  comrades,  so  accordingly 
applied  the  match.  At  this  instant,  Major  Holmes 
was  either  killed  by  a  grape  shot,  or  by  an  acciden 
tal  musket  ball.  His  death  threw  the  Americans 
into  a  panic,  and  they  immediately  commenced  a 
retreat,  which  ended  in  confusion. 

11  When  the  fleet  first  appeared  before  the  island, 
there  was  only  one  company  of  troops  in  the  fort — 
had  Col.  Croghan  then  summoned  it  to  surrender,  it 
would  have  been  given  up ;  but  he  sailed  away, 
went  and  burnt  the  trading-houses  at  Old  St.  Jo 
seph's  Island,  and  from  thence  sent  an  expedition  to 
the  Saut  St.  Mary,  under  Major  Holmes,  who  burned 
the  North  "West  Fur  Company  Houses  on  the  Canada 
side,  and  carried  away  all  the  personal  property  of 


104  Old  Mackinaw. 

individuals  on  the  American  side.  Thus  ten  or 
twenty  days  were  lost.  In  the  mean  time,  the  In 
dians  had  come  to  the  defense  of  Fort  Mackinac, 
and,  on  the  second  appearance  of  Col.  Croghan, 
they  were  prepared,  and  our  troops  shamefully  de 
feated. 

"  This  island,  although  the  bluffs  present  the  ap 
pearance  of  sterility,  is  covered  with  a  strong  soil, 
which  is  continually  renovated  by  the  spontaneous 
decomposition  of  calcareous  rock.  The  common 
growth  of  trees  on  the  island  are  the  sugar-maple, 
beech,  birch,  white  and  yellow  pine,  white  and  red 
spruce,  balsam  fir,  white  cedar,  iron  wood,  and  the 
poplar ;  the  trees  now  seen  are  the  second  and  third 
growth.  On  the  northwestern  part  of  Mr.  Doasman's 
farm,  a  few  of  the  old  patriarchs  of  the  forest  are 
still  standing." 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Lake  Superior — Scenery — Transparency  of  its  waters — Cli 
mate — Isle  Royale  —  Apostles'  Islands — La  Point — Thunder 
Cape — Cariboo  Point — A  wonderful  lake — Romantic  scenery 
—Pictured  Rocks— Rock  Castle— The  Grand  Portal— The  Cha 
pel — Fluctuations  in  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior — Curious 
phenomena — Retrocession  of  the  waters  —  Mirage — Iron 
mountains  and  mines — Description  of— Products — Shipments 
— Copper — Immense  boulders  —  Produce  of  the  mines  for 
1857— Shipment  of  copper  from  the  Lake  for  1858 — Centre 
of  the  mining  country — Iron  Mountains — Copper  mines  of 
Great  Britain — Coal — Mackinaw,  a  great  manufacturing  point 
—  Key  to  the  Upper  Lakes  —  Commerce  of  Lakes  —  Growth 
of  cities. 

LAKE  SUPERIOR,  though  it  possesses  not  all  the 
vastness  of  the  ocean,  is  yet  equal  in  sublimity.  In 
gazing  upon  its  surface,  whether  spread  out  like  a 
vast  mirror  reflecting  the  varying  tints  of  the  sky, 
or  ruffled  by  gently  curling  waves,  or  lashed  into 
fury  by  the  tempest,  one  is  impressed  with  the  idea 
of  the  Infinite.  It  is  known  to  be  the  largest  body 
of  fresh  water  on  the  globe,  being  nearly  four  hun 
dred  miles  long  from  east  to  west,  and  one  hundred 

(105) 


106  Old  Mackinaw. 

and  thirty  wide.  It  is  the  grand  reservoir  from 
whence  proceed  the  waters  of  Michigan,  Huron,  and 
Erie.  It  gives  birth  to  Niagara,  the  wonder  of  the 
world,  fills  the  basin  of  Ontario,  and  rolls  a  mighty 
flood  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Atlantic. 

This  lake  lies  in  the  bosom  of  a  mountainous  re 
gion,  where  the  Indian  yet  reigns  and  roams  in  his 
wonted  freedom.  Except  an  occasional  picketed 
fort  or  trading  house,  it  is  yet  a  perfect  wilderness. 
The  entire  country  is  rocky  and  covered  with  a 
stunted  growth  of  vegetation  such  as  is  usual  in 
high  latitudes.  The  waters  of  this  lake  are  mar- 
velously  clear,  and,  even  at  midsummer,  are  exceed 
ingly  cold.  Mr.  Charles  Lanman,  who  has  written  a 
most  admirable  book,  entitled  " Summer  in  the  Wil 
derness,"  says,  "In  passing  along  its  rocky  shores, 
in  my  frail  canoe,  I  have  often  been  alarmed  at  the 
sight  of  a  sunken  boulder,  which  I  fancied  must  be 
near  the  top,  and  on  further  investigation  have 
found  myself  to  be  upward  of  twenty  feet  from  the 
danger  of  a  concussion.  I  have  frequently  lowered 
a  white  rag  to  the  depth  of  one  hundred  feet  and 
been  able  to  discern  its  every  fold  or  stain.  The 
color  of  the  water  near  the  shore  is  a  deep  green ; 
but  off  soundings  it  has  all  the  dark  blue  of  the 


Old  Mackinaw.  107 

Speaking  of  the  climate,  he  says :  "  In  midsum 
mer  it  is  beyond  compare,  the  air  is  soft  and  bracing 
at  the  same  time.  A  healthier  region  does  not  exist 
on  the  earth,  an  assertion  corroborated  by  the  fact, 
that  the  inhabitants  usually  live  to  an  advanced  age, 
notwithstanding  the  many  hardships.  The  common 
diseases  of  mankind  are  here  comparatively  unknown, 
and  I  have  never  seen  an  individual  whose  breast 
did  not  swell  with  a  new  emotion  of  delight  as  he 
inhaled  the  air  of  this  northern  wilderness." 

The  largest  island  in  Lake  Superior  is  Isle  Koy- 
ale.  It  is  forty  miles  in  length  and  from  six  to  ten 
miles  in  width.  Its  hills  reach  an  altitude  of  four  hun 
dred  feet.  During  the  winter  season  it  is  entirely 
uninhabited,  but  in  the  summer  it  is  frequently 
visited,  particularly  by  copper  speculators.  Near 
the  western  extremity  of  the  lake  are  the  Apostles' 
Islands,  which  are  detachments  of  a  peninsula  run 
ning  out  in  the  same  direction  with  Keweenaw, 
which  is  known  as  La  Point.  The  group  consist  of 
three  islands,  which  rise  like  gems  from  the  water. 
There  is  a  dreamy  summer  about  them  which  make 
them  enticing  as  the  Hesperides  of  the  ancients. 

The  two  most  prominent  peninsulas  are  Thunder 
Cape  and  Cariboo  Point.  Thunder  Cape  is  about 
fourteen  hundred  feet  high.  It  looms  up  against  the 


io8  Old  Mackinaw. 

sky  in  grandeur,  and  is  a  most  romantic  spot.  Ca 
riboo  Point  is  less  lofty  and  grand  in  its  appearance, 
but  is  celebrated  for  its  unknown  hieroglyphics 
painted  upon  its  summits  by  a  race  which  has  long 
since  passed  away.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  bluff  are 
found  the  most  beautiful  agates  in  the  world. 

In  the  northeastern  part  of  the  lake  is  an  island 
situated  about  twenty  miles  from  the  Canadian 
shore,  which  has  a  wonderful  lake  in  its  centre, 
about  one  mile  in  length.  It  is  as  beautiful  as  it  is 
wonderful.  It  is  irnbosomed  in  the  fastnesses  of 
perpendicular  cliffs,  which  rise  to  a  height  of  seven 
hundred  feet.  It  has  but  one  outlet  and  is  impass 
able  even  to  a  canoe.  At  the  opening  of  this  nar 
row  chasm  stands  a  column  of  solid  rock  which  has 
a  base  of  about  one  hundred  feet  in  diameter.  The 
column  rises,  gradually  tapering  until  it  reaches  a 
height  of  eight  hundred  feet.  A  solitary  pine  sur 
mounts  the  summit  of  this  wonderful  column.  There 
it  stands  like  the  sentinel  of  this  calm,  deep  lake, 
whose  silence  and  solitude  are  rarely  ever  broken, 
and  whose  tranquil  bosom  has  never  been  ruffled  by 
the  slightest  breeze. 

The  scenery  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior  is  in 
some  places  of  the  most  romantic  character.  About 
one  hundred  miles  west  of  Saut  St.  Mary,  a  range 


THE  CASTLES. 


Old  Mackinaw.  109 

of  cliffs  are  to  be  seen,  what  has  been  called  the  "  Pic 
tured  Rocks."  They  are  a  series  of  sandstone  bluffs 
extending  along  the  shore  of  the  lake  for  about  five 
miles,  and  rising,  in  most  places  vertically  from  the 
water,  from  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  in  height. 
These  towering  cliffs  have  been  worn  away  by  the 
action  of  the  lake,  which  for  centuries  has  dashed 
an  ocean-like  surf  against  their  base.  The  surface 
of  these  rocks  has  been,  in  large  portions,  strangely 
colored  by  bands  of  brilliant  hues,  which  present  to 
the  eye  of  the  voyager  a  singularly  pleasing  appear 
ance.  One  of  these  cliffs  resembles  so  much  the 
turreted  entrance  and  arched  portal  of  some  old  feu 
dal  castle  that  it  has  been  called  "Rock  Castle." 
Beyond  this  is  another  architectural  curiosity,  deno 
minated  "  The  Grand  Portal,"  which  consists  of  an 
arched  opening  in  the  rocks.  The  cliff  is  composed  of 
a  vast  mass,  of  a  rectilinear  shape,  projecting  out  into 
the  lake  six  hundred  feet,  and  presenting  a  front  of 
three  hundred  feet,  and  rising  to  a  height  of  two 
hundred  feet.  An  entrance  has  been  excavated  from 
one  side  to  the  other,  opening  out  into  large  vaulted 
passages  which  communicate  with  the  great  dome, 
some  three  hundred  feet  from  the  front  of  the  cliff. 
The  Grand  Portal,  which  opens  out  on  the  lake,  is 
of  magnificent  dimensions,  being  one  hundred  feet 
10 


no  Old  Mackinaw. 

high;  and  one  hundred  and  sixty- eight  feet  wide 
at  the  water  level.  The  distance  from  the  verge 
of  the  cliff;  over  the  arch  to  the  water,  is  one  hun 
dred  and  thirty-three  feet,  leaving  three  feet  for  the 
thickness  of  the  rock  above  the  arch  itself.  The  ex 
treme  height  of  the  cliff  is  about  fifty  feet  more, 
making  in  all  one  hundred  and  eighty-three  feet.  It 
is  impossible,  adequately,  to  describe  this  wonderful 
scene.  The  vast  dimensions  of  the  cavern,  the 
vaulted  passages,  the  rare  combination  of  colors,  the 
varied  effects  of  the  light  as  it  streams  through  the 
great  arch  and  falls  on  the  different  objects;  the 
deep,  emerald  green  of  the  water,  the  unvarying 
swell  of  the  lake,  keeping  up  a  succession  of  musi 
cal  echoes ;  the  reverberation  of  one's  voice  coming 
back  with  startling  effect,  must  all  be  seen  and  heard 
to  be  fully  appreciated. 

Not  far  from  this  point  is  "  The  chapel"  of  the  voy 
agers  which  nature  has  cut  out  of  the  cliff  thirty  or 
forty  feet  above  the  lake.  The  interior  consists  of  a 
spacious  vaulted  apartment.  An  arched  roof  from 
ten  to  twenty  feet  in  thickness  rests  on  four  gigantic- 
columns  of  rock.  These  columns  consist  of  finely 
stratified  rock,  and  have  been  worn  into  curious 
shapes.  At  the  base  of  one  of  these  pillars  an 
arched  cavity  or  niche  has  been  out,  access  to  which 


Old  Mackinaw.  ill 

is  had  by  a  flight  of  steps  formed  by  the  project- 
ins;  strata.  The  arrangement  of  the  whole  resembles 

O  O 

very  much  the  pulpit  of  a  church,  while  the  arched 
canopy  in  front,  opening  out  to  the  voluted  interior, 
with  a  flat  tabular  mass  rising  to  a  convenient  height 
for  a  desk,  and  an  isolated  block  resembling  an  altar, 
all  fashioned  as  appropriately  as  if  formed  by  the 
hand  of  man,  constantly  impresses  one  that  he  is 
within  the  walls  of  a  church. 

In  the  Geological  Eeport,  made  by  Foster  and 
Whitney,  to  Congress,  we  find  the  following  remark : 
"  It  is  a  matter  of  surprise,  that  so  far  as  we  know, 
none  of  our  artists,  have  visited  this  region,  and 
given  to  the  world  representations  of  scenery, 
so  striking  and  so  different  from  any  which  can  be 
found  elsewhere.  We  can  hardly  conceive  of  any 
thing  more  worthy  of  the  artist's  pencil,  and  if  the 
tide  of  pleasure-travel  should  once  be  turned  in  this 
direction,  it  seems  not  unreasonable  to  suppose,  that 
a  fashionable  hotel  may  yet  be  built  under  the 
shade  of  the  pine  groves  near  the  chapel,  and  a 
trip  thither  become  as  common  as  one  to  Niagara 
now  is." 

Beyond  the  grand  portal,  the  rock,  being  less 
exposed  to  the  force  of  the  waves,  bears  fewer  marks 
of  their  destructive  action.  The  entrance  to  Chapel 


112  Old  Mackinaw. 

river  is  at  the  most  easterly  extremity  of  a  sandy 
beach,  which  extends  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and 
affords  a  convenient  landing  place,  while  the  drift 
terrace  elevated  about  thirty  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  lake,  being  an  open  pine  plain,  affords  ex 
cellent  camping  ground,  and  is  the  most  central  and 
convenient  spot  for  the  traveler  to  pitch  his  tent, 
while  he  examines  the  most  interesting  localities  in 
the  series  which  occur  in  the  vicinity,  particularly 
the  Castle  and  the  Chapel. 

One  who  had  resided  upon  the  shores  of  Lake 
Superior  for  several  summers  says,  "  Our  attention 
has  been  directed  to  the  fluctuations  in  the  level  of 
its  waters,  and  while  we  have  failed  to  detect  any 
ebb  and  flow  corresponding  .with  the  tidal  action,  we 
have  on  the  other  hand  noticed  certain  extraordi 
nary  swells,  which  appear  to  be  independent  of  the 
action  of  the  sun  and  moon."  The  Jesuit  Fathers  in 
1670-1,  had  their  attention  called  to  these  extraordi 
nary  swells.  In  their  "  Eelations,"  they  say,  "  We 
found  at  one  time  the  motion  of  the  waters  to  be  re 
gular  and  at  others  extremely  fluctuating.  We  have 
noticed  however,  that  at  full  moon  and  new  moon, 
the  tides  change  once  a  day  for  eight  or  ten  days, 
while  during  the  remainder  of  the  time  there  is 
hardly  any  change  perceptible.  The  currents  set 


Old  Mackinaw.  113 

almost  invariably  in  one  direction,  namely  toward 
Lake  Michigan,  and  they  almost  invariably  set  against 
the  wind,  sometimes  with  great  force." 

Mackenzie  who  wrote  in  1789,  relates  a  very 
curious  phenomenon,  which  occurred  at  Grand  Port 
age,  on  Lake  Superior,  and  for  which  no  obvious 
cause  could  be  assigned.  He  says,  "the  water  with 
drew,  leaving  the  ground  dry,  which  had  never  be 
fore  been  visible,  the  fall  being  equal  to  four  per 
pendicular  feet,  and  rushing  back  with  great  velo 
city  above  the  common  mark.  It  continued  thus 
rising  and  falling  for  several  hours,  gradually  increa 
sing  until  it  stopped  at  its  usual  height." 

Professor  Mather,  who  observed  the  barometer 
at  Copper  Harbor  during  the  prevalence  of  one  of 
these  fluctuations,  remarks,  uAs  a  general  thing, 
fluctuations  in  the  barometer  accompanied  the  fluc 
tuations  in  the  level  of  the  water,  but  sometimes  the 
water  level  varied  rapidly  in  the  harbor,  while  no 
such  variations  occurred  in  the  barometer  at  the 
place  of  observation.  The  variations  in  the  level  of 
the  water  may  be  caused  by  varied  barometric  pres 
sure  of  the  air  on  the  water,  either  at  the  place  of 
observation  or  at  some  distant  points.  A  local  in 
creased  pressure  of  the  atmosphere  at  the  place  of 
observation  would  lower  the  water  level,  where 
10* 


114  Old  Mackinaw. 

there  is  a  wide  expanse  of  water ;  or  a  diminished 
pressure,  under  the  same  circumstances,  would  cause 
the  water  to  rise  above  its  usual  level." 

In  the  summer  of  1834,  according  to  the  report 
of  Foster  and  Whitney,  made  to  Congress,  in  1850, 
an  extraordinary  retrocession  of  the  waters  took 
place  at  Saut  St.  Mary.  The  river  here  is  nearly  a 
mile  in  width,  and  the  depth  of  the  water  over  the 
sandstone  rapids  is  about  two  and  a  half  feet.  The 
phenomenon  occurred  at  noon.  The  day  was  calm 
but  cloudy  ;  the  water  retired  suddenly,  leaving  the 
bed  of  the  river  bare,  except  for  the  distance  of 
about  twenty  rods  where  the  channel  is  deepest,  and 
remained  so  for  the  space  of  an  hour.  Persons  went 
out  and  caught  fish  in  the  pools  formed  in  the  rocky 
cavities.  The  return  of  the  waters  was  sudden  and 
presented  a  sublime  spectacle.  They  came  down  like 
an  immense  surge,  roaring  and  foaming,  and  those 
who  had  incautiously  wandered  into  the  river  bed, 
had  barely  time  to  escape  being  overwhelmed.  A 
similar  event  occurred  in  1842,  when  the  current 
set  back  from  the  rapids,  and  the  water  rose  upward 
of  two  feet  above  the  usual  mark. 

In  1845,  Foster  and  Whitney,  while  coasting  in 
an  open  boat  between  Copper  Harbor  and  Eagle 
Eiver,  observed  the  water  rise  up,  at  a  distance  of  a 


Old  Mackinaw.  115 

fourth  of  a  mile  to  the  northwest,  to  the  height  of 
twenty  feet.  It  curled  over  like  an  immense  surge, 
crested  with  foam  and  swept  toward  the  shore.  It 
was  succeeded  by  two  or  three  swells  of  less  mag 
nitude,  when  the  lake  resumed  its  former  tranquillity. 
At  the  same  time  the  mirage  was  beautifully  dis 
played,  and  imaginary  islands  were  seen  along  the 
horizon.  In  1849,  they  witnessed  at  Kock  Harbor, 
Isle  Eoyale,  the  ebbing  and  flowing  of  the  water, 
recurring  at  intervals  of  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes, 
during  the  entire  afternoon. 

The  difference  between  the  temperature  of  the  air 
and  the  lake,  gives  rise  to  a  variety  of  optical  illu 
sions  known  as  mirage.  Mountains  are  seen  with 
inverted  cones,  headlands  project  from  the  shore 
where  none  exist.  Islands  clothed  with  verdure  or 
girt  with  cliffs  rise  up  from  the  bosom  of  the  lake. 
On  approaching  Keweenaw  Point,  Mount  Houghton, 
is  the  first  object  to  greet  the  eye  of  the  mariner. 
In  peculiar  stages  of  the  atmosphere,  its  summit  is 
seen  inverted  in  the  sky  long  before  the  mountain  it 
self  is  visible.  On  the  north  shore  the  Paps,  two  ele 
vated  mountains  near  the  entrance  of  Neepigon  Bay, 
at  one  time  appear  like  hour  glasses,  and  at  another 
like  craters,  emitting  long  columns  of  smoke,  which 
gradually  settles  around  their  cones. 


li6  Old  Mackinaw. 

The  mines  and  minerals  of  the  northwest  consti 
tute  the  most  striking  feature  of  the  country,  and  at 
the  present  time  one  of  the  great  sources  of  its  wealth. 

The  centre  of  the  mining  country  is  called  the  Supe 
rior  country,  or  the  northern  peninsula  of  Michigan, 
but  there  is  no  reason  to  believe  it  is  confined  to  this 
region.  Coal  and  iron,  the  most  valuable  of  all  mine 
rals  are  found  in  various  places  in  the  northwest.  The 
principal  and  most  valuable  minerals  found  west 
of  Mackinaw,  are  iron,  copper,  and  lead.  A  gene 
ral  view  of  the  mineral  region  may  be  found  in 
Owen's  Geological  Survey  of  Iowa,  Wisconsin,  Min 
nesota,  and  Superior.  Great  beds  of  iron  are  found 
in  ridges  or  cliffs,  some  of  which  rise  up  to  an  im 
mense  height.  Some  of  these  ore-beds  of  Lake  Super 
ior  are  fifteen  feet  in  thickness,  and  one  of  them  con 
tains  iron  enough  to  supply  the  world  for  ages. 
Above  them  are  immense  forests,  suitable  for  char 
coal. 

The  discovery  of  the  iron  mountains  and  mines 
of  Lake  Superior  was  made  in  1846,  but  they  were 
not  fully  developed  until  the  year  1855,  when  the 
ship  canal  at  Saut  St.  Mary  was  completed.  The 
mines  are  from  three  to  sixteen  miles  from  Mar- 
quette,  a  thriving  village  of  upward  of  one  thousand 
inhabitants,  overlooking  the  lake,  about  one  hundred 


Old  Mackinaw.  117 

and  forty  miles  above  the  Saut.  The  mine  nearest 
the  lake  is  about  two  and  a  half  miles  distant  from 
Marquette,  and  bears  the  name  of  Eureka.  The  ore 
is  said  to  be  of  surpassing  richness,  and  yields  an 
iron  of  the  best  quality,  adapted  to  cutlery.  The  Jack 
son  iron  mountain,  and  the  Cleveland  iron  moun 
tain,  are  fourteen  and  sixteen  miles  distant.  They 
send  to  Marquette  an  aggregate  of  one  thousand  tons 
per  week.  These  mountains  rise  gradually  to  the 
height  of  six  or  seven  hundred  feet,  and  are  a  solid 
mass  of  iron  ore,  yielding  from  50  to  60  per  cent,  of 
the  best  iron.  The  New  England  iron  mountain  is 
two  and  a  half  miles  beyond  the  Cleveland  moun 
tain,  and  abounds  with  ore  of  equal  richness.  A 
mile  or  two  further  is  the  Burt  mountain,  and  the 
same  may  be  said  of  this,  both  as  it  regards  quantity 
and  quality,  as  of  the  others.  A  railroad  has  been 
constructed  from  Marquette  to  the  iron  regions,  and 
immense  quantities  of  ore  and  iron  are  transported 
over  it  daily. 

All  the  hills  and  mountains  surrounding  Lake 
Superior,  abound  in  valuable  minerals  of  which  cop 
per  is  the  most  abundant.  It  exists  in  every  variety 
of  form.  According  to  the  opinion  of  the  lamented 
Houghton,  this  region  contains  the  most  extensive 
copper  mines  in  the  known  world.  The  native  cop- 


ii8  Old  Mackinaw. 

per  boulder  discovered  by  the  traveler  Henry  in 
the  bed  of  the  Ontonagon  river,  and  now  in  Wash 
ington,  originally  weighed  thirty-eight  hundred 
pounds.  A  copper  mass  of  the  same  material,  found 
near  Copper  Harbor,  weighed  twelve  hundred 
pounds.  At  Copper  Falls,  there  is  a  vein  of  solid 
ore  which  measures  nine  feet  in  depth,  and  seven 
and  a  half  inches  in  thickness.  At  Eagle  river  a 
boulder  was  found  weighing  seventeen  hundred 
pounds.  The  number  of  mining  companies  in  opera 
tion  on  the  American  shore  is  upward  of  a  hundred. 

The  Minnesota  mine,  fifteen  miles  from  Ontonagon, 
during  the  year  ending  January  1,  1857,  produced 
3,718,403  pounds  of  copper.  The  Cliff  mine  during 
the  year,  produced  3,291,229  pounds  of  copper.  The 
Portage  Lake  District,  including  Isle  Eoyale,  Por 
tage,  Huron,  Quincy  and  Pewabic  shipped  539  tons 
of  copper  in  1857. 

The  Lake  Superior  miners  estimate  the  total  ship 
ment  of  copper  mineral  from  the  lake  during  the 
year  1858,  at  6,008  tons,  of  an  average  purity  of  67 
per  cent — making  the  product  of  ingot  copper  about 
4,000  tons,  worth  in  the  market  at  present  $1,840,000. 
Estimating  the  population  of  the  copper  region  at 
6,500  persons,  this  gives  an  annual  product  of  about 
$280  for  each  man,  woman  and  child.  The  ship- 


Old  Mackinaw.  119 

ments  were  as  follows:  From  Keweenaw  Point 
2,180  tons:  from  Portage  Lake  1,152  tons;  from 
Ontonagon  District  2,676  tons;  total  6,008  tons. 

The  extent  and  importance  of  the  copper  mines 
of  Superior,  in  relation  to  the  general  trade  in  that 
metal,  may  be  estimated  by  the  following  account  of 
the  amount  of  pure  copper  produced  in  other  parts 
of  the  world.  The  United  Kingdom  of  Great  Bri- 
tian  14,465  tons,  Norway  7,200  tons,  Eussia  4,000, 
Mexico  500,  Hesse  Cassel  500,  Hartz  Mountains  212, 
Sweden  2,000,  Hungary  2,000,  East  Germany  443 ; 
making  a  total,  out  of  America,  of  30,820  tons.  The 
single  District  of  Ontonagon  can  produce  as  much 
copper  as  the  entire  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain.  The 
copper  mines  of  the  United  States,  are  doing  their 
part  as  effectually  in  adding  to  the  solid  wealth  of 
the  country,  as  the  gold  mines  of  California,  or  the 
silver  mines  of  the  Arizonia.  The  copper  mining 
countries  are  another  illustration  of  the  principle 
upon  which  success  is  based,  namely,  that  concen 
trated  talent,  effort  and  capital  are  necessary  to  a 
development  of  the  resources  of  a  country. 

When  we  look  into  the  manufacture  of  this  arti 
cle,  we  shall  find  a  new  element  in  the  future  growth 
of  towns  to  arise  in  this  region.  At  present,  a  large 
portion  of  this  copper  is  shipped  abroad  to  be  smelted. 


12O  Old  Mackinaw. 

But  is  there  not  every  reason,  as  well  of  economy  as 
of  material,  for  carrying  on  smelting,  and  all  other 
manufacturing  processes,  at  the  point  of  production  ? 
The  cost  of  transporting  the  raw  material  is  greater 
than  that  of  carrying  the  manufactured  product. 
But  when  all  the  elements  of  successful  manufactur 
ing  exist  where  the  raw  material  is  found,  then  the 
economy  of  the  process  is  doubled.  Of  metals,  of 
navigation,  of  food,  we  have  shown  there  is  an  inex 
haustible  supply.  But  there  is  also  coal  near  enough 
to  supply  the  last  and  only  material  which  might  be 
supposed  wanting.  Coal  is  found  in  the  Southern 
Peninsula  of  Michigan,  in  abundance  and  of  good 
quality.  This  coal  is  found  at  Jackson  and  at  Lan 
sing.  This  was  a  matter  of  so  much  importance 
that  Prof.  Douglas,  of  the  State  University,  pro 
ceeded  immediately  to  analyze  it. 

The  following  are  the  principal  results  of  his 
analysis.  It  was  made  chiefly  in  reference  to  the 
manufacture  of  gas  : — 

"  The  coal  was  of  the  bituminous  variety,  having 
a  jet  black  color  and  slaty  structure.  It  was  readily 
ignited,  burning  with  a  dull  flame  and  smoke,  the 
fragments  comminuting  more  or  less  by  the  heat. 
It  had  a  specific  gravity  of  about  1.25. 

100  parts   gave  violatile  matter  50.780,  sulphur 


Old   Mackinaw.  121 

4.028,  iron  4.400,  ash  8.400,  carbon  (not  volatilized) 
41.600. 

The  value  of  coal  for  the  manufacture  of  gas  is 
usually  estimated  by  the  amount  of  volatile  matter 
it  yields  at  a  full  red-heat." 

Of  ten  samples  of  English  coal,  this  had  more 
volatile  matter  than  six.  Of  American  coals,  it  had 
more  of  the  burning  principle  than  any,  except  one. 
The  quality  of  this  coal  is  unquestionably  good,  and 
its  distance  from  Mackinaw  is  no  objection,  since  ac 
cess  can  be  obtained  both  by  water  and  railroad. 
Both  the  coal  and  iron  used  in  the  manufactures  of 
Cincinnati  are  brought  from  places  distant  from  one 
hundred  to  five  hundred  miles;  and  yet  scarcely 
any  place  in  America  has  prospered  more  by  manu 
factures  than  the  Queen  of  the  West.  Mackinaw 
has  more  than  the  advantages  of  Cincinnati  for  ma 
nufactures.  It  not  only  has  iron  and  coal,  but  cop 
per  and  lead,  near  enough  for  all  the  purposes  of 
successful  manufacture.  Favorable  indications  of 
coal  exist  within  fifty  miles  south  of  the  Straits,  and 
indications  also  exist  of  lead.  When  we  consider 
these  facts,  and  the  vast  extent  of  country,  of  inland 
oceans,  and  of  streams  around  it,  why  should  not 
Mackinaw  be  a  point  of  concentration  for  manufac 
tures,  as  well  as  of  distribution  for  commerce  ? 
11 


122  Old  Mackinaw. 

Mackinaw  is  centrally  situated  in  the  mineral  re 
gion,  and  with  coal  and  hard  wood  for  charcoal  in 
perpetual  abundance,  and  the  cheapest  possible  mode 
of  transportation,  will  become  a  great  manufacturing 
point,  and  be  able  to  manufacture  innumerable  ar 
ticles,  which  are  now  made  in  Europe,  and  which 
our  people  have  been  compelled  to  import  for  use, 
simply  because  the  material  hitherto  employed  has 
been  of  a  quality  unsuitable  for  such  purposes.  Be 
sides  the  healthful  and  bracing  temperature  of  this 
locality,  when  compared  with  Ohio  and  Pennsyl 
vania,  whose  summers  are  found  to  be  exceedingly 
enervating,  especially  to  those  employed  in  the 
manufacture  of  iron,  affords  advantages,  and  offers 
inducements  which  cannot  be  overlooked,  since  in 
the  physical  strength  and  comfort  of  the  workmen, 
is  involved  the  all-important  question  of  economy. 
If  it  should  be  asked,  is  the  site  such  that  a  great 
city  can  be  built  upon  it,  without  imperial  wealth, 
like  to  that  of  St.  Petersburg,  or  with  the  artificial 
foundations  like  to  those  of  Chicago,  or  bankrupting 
successive  companies  like  Cairo  on  the  Ohio, — the 
answer  is  at  hand  and  decisive.  At  Mackinaw  there 
are  no  marshes  to  fill  up  or  drain,  no  tide  sands,  no 
flood-washed  banks,  no  narrow  and  isolated  rocks  or 
ridges,  to  intercept  the  progress  of  commercial 


Old  Mackinaw.  123 

growth  and  activity.  On  the  contrary,  the  lake 
rises  under  the  heaviest  rains  but  little,  and  breaks 
its  waves  on  a  dry  shore  rising  gradually  far  above 
its  level.  There  is  no  better  natural  site  for  the 
foundation  of  a  city  in  the  world,  nor  one  possessing 
more  inviting  or  beautiful  surroundings,  and  when 
we  consider  its  available  resources,  it  is  evident  that 
nothing  can  prevent  its  rise  and  progress.  The 
straits  are  so  completely  the  key  of  the  Upper  Lakes, 
Mackinaw  must,  as  in  the  days  of  the  fur  trade,  un 
lock  the  vast  treasures  of  the  entire  northwest.  The 
shore  of  Lake  Superior,  being  but  about  fifty  miles 
north  of  Mackinaw  and  dependent  on  a  canal 
navigation,  annually  navigable  sixty  days  less  than 
the  straits,  on  account  of  ice,  to  say  nothing  of  break 
age,  it  is  perfectly  obvious  that  there  can  be  no  com 
peting  city  further  north. 

The  following  from  the  Toledo  Blade  shows  the 
immense  importance  of  this  point  as  a  key  position : 

"  The  immense  commerce  of  the  lakes,  the  growth 
of  which  has  been  unparalleled  by  anything  in  the 
the  history  of  the  world,  and  the  vast  mineral,  timber 
and  agricultural  resources  of  their  shores,  which  are 
even  now,  only  beginning  to  attract  attention,  may 
well  awaken  a  desire  on  the  part  of  enterprise  to  get 
possession  of  the  key  position  which  is  to  command 


124  Old  Mackinaw. 

and  unlock  the  future  treasures  of  this  vast  empire. 
Already,  six  important  commercial  cities,  with  an  ag 
gregate  population  of  about  350,000  inhabitants, 
have  sprung  up  on  these  island  waters,  and  are  the 
most  flourishing  of  any  away  from  the  Atlantic  coast. 
Others  are  struggling  into  notoriety  on  the  borders 
of  Lake  Superior,  and  must,  at  no  very  distant  time, 
become  important  and  active  places  of  business.  But 
the  place  of  all  others,  where  we  would  expect  a  city 
to  spring  up  and  grow  rapidly  into  importance,  is 
still  undeveloped. 

"  The  Straits  of  Mackinaw,  four  and  a  half  miles 
wide,  make  the  only  natural  ferry  communication 
between  the  great  peninsula,  enclosed  by  the  lakes 
and  the  rich  mineral  region  lying  on  the  southern  bor 
der  of  Lake  Superior ;  and  must,  hence,  be  the  ter 
minus  of  all  the  great  railroad  lines  that  traverse 
Michigan  longitudinally  and  compete  for  the  trade 
north  of  the  straits,  now  rapidly  growing  up  into  im 
portance.  It  must  therefore  be  the  point  of  radiation, 
eastward,  through  Canada;  westward  through  the 
mineral  region ;  and  southward,  through  Michigan. 
Canada  has  already  made  grants  of  land  for  several 
important  roads  which  must  ultimately  reach  the 
straits ;  and  lines  are  also  provided  for  by  govern 
ment  grants,  from  the  straits  through  the  Northern 
Peninsula,  and  from  the  straits  southward  to  Fort 


Old  Mackinaw.  125 

Wayne  by  the  way  of  Grand  Eapids,  and  to  Toledo, 
through  Lansing.  The  culminating  point  being  thus 
settled  for  several  roads,  all  others  will  naturally 
centre  at  the  same  crossing,  even  if  the  coast  line  had 
not  made  such  a  thing  inevitable. 

"  The  point  which  projects  northward  into  the  lake, 
from  the  Michigan  Peninsula,  to  form  this  strait,  is 
admirably  located  for  a  great  city.  It  is  the  site  of 
old  Fort  Mackinaw,  and  in  health  and  commercial 
position,  can  have  no  rival  in  those  southern  waters. 
This  point  has  been  selected  by  a  company  of  capi 
talists,  on  which  to  plant  the  commercial  city  of  the 
north  ;  the  Venice  of  the  Lakes,  foreshadowed  in  the 
extract  which  we  have  placed  at  the  head  of  the  arti 
cle.  This  new  city  is  to  bear  the  name  of  the  an 
cient  fort  and  strait,  and  to  be  called  Mackinaw.  It 
will  hold  the  key  of  all  the  northern  lakes ;  and 
should  its  growth  be  marked  by  energy  and  enter 
prise,  will  command  the  trade  of  the  greatest  mining 
region  in  the  world  ;  be  the  chief  depot  of  the  north 
ern  fisheries ;  the  outlet  of  an  immense  lumber 
trade ;  and  the  focus  of  a  great  network  of  railways, 
communicating  with  tropics  on  the  south,  and  stretch 
ing  out  its  iron  arms,  at  no  distant  day,  to  the  Atlantic 
on  the  east,  and  Pacific  on  the  west. 

The  proposed  city  will  have  the  advantage  of  the 
11* 


126  Old  Mackinaw. 

most  salubrious  climate  to  be  found  in  the  temperate 
zone,  and  will  be  the  resort  of  those  seeking  health, 
as  well  as  those  seeking  wealth.  It  has  a  northern 
position,  being  on  the  same  parallel  as  Montreal ; 
but  the  winters  are  equable,  and  the  summers 
though  short,  are  mild  and  pleasant,  being  modi 
fied  by  the  great  body  of  water  which  stretches 
out  on  every  side,  except  at  the  south.  As  a  manu 
facturing  point  it  may  well  command  universal  at 
tention.  The  Lake  Superior  iron  is  known  to  be  the 
best  in  the  world,  and  coal  and  wood  are  at  hand  in 
the  greatest  abundance ;  while  communication  by 
water  is  so  wide  as  to  leave  nothing  to  desire  on  that 
head.  It  should  be  as  famous  for  smelting  as  Swan 
sea,  in  England,  for  it  must  have  unbounded  supplies 
of  iron  and  copper  ore. 

"  But  we  have  no  space  to  speak  of  its  commercial 
position.  It  must  be  seen  at  a  glance  that,  as  all  the 
produce  which  flows  through  Chicago,  Milwaukee, 
and  the  great  West  must  sweep  by  on  its  way  to  the 
East,  and  all  the  goods  and  merchandise  of  the  East, 
must  be  borne  by  its  wharves  on  their  way  to  the 
West,  that  it  cannot  fail  to  be  a  point  which  must 
spring  at  once  into  importance.  The  government, 
too,  must  have  a  fort,  a  light-house,  and  custom 
house  there,  which  with  the  fisheries,  must  supply  a 
large  profitable  business  to  its  earlier  population." 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Lake  Huron — Eastern  shore  of  Michigan — Face  of  the  country 
— Picturesque  view — Rivers  —  Grand — Saginaw — Cheboy-e- 
gun — Natural  scenery — Fort  Gratiot — White  Rock — Saginaw 
Bay — Thunder  Bay — Bois  Blanc  Island — Drurnmond's  Island 
—  British  Troops  —  St.  Helena  Island  —  Iroquois  Woman's 
Point— Point  La  Barbe— Point  aux  Sable— Point  St.  Vital- 
Wreck  of  the  Queen  City— St.  Martin's  Island— Fox  Point 
— Moneto  pa-maw — Mille  au  Coquin — Great  fishing  places — 
Cross  Village — Catholic  Convent. 

LAKE  HURON,  which,  with  Lake  Erie  and  St. 
Clair,  washes  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  southern 
peninsula  of  Michigan,  is  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  long  and  its  average  width  is  about  one  hun 
dred  miles.  Its  depth  is  about  eight  hundred  feet. 
The  southeastern  shore  of  Michigan  presents  a  level 
surface  covered  with  a  dense  forest,  at  points  meet 
ing  the  edge  of  the  bank.  The  trees  of  this  heavily- 
timbered  land,  with  their  massive  shafts  standing 
close  together,  "  cast  a  gloomy  grandeur  over  the 
scene,  and  when  stripped  of  their  foliage  appear  like 

(127) 


128  Old  Mackinaw. 

the  black  colonnade  of  a  sylvan  temple."  In  advanc 
ing  into  the  interior,  a  picturesque  and  rolling  coun 
try  opens  to  view,  covered  with  oak-openings  or 
groves  of  white  oak  thinly  scattered  over  the  ground, 
having  the  appearance  of  stately  parks.  The  appear 
ance  of  the  surface  of  the  country  is  as  if  it  was 
covered  with  mounds,  arranged  without  order,  some 
times  rising  from  thirty  to  two  hundred  feet  in 
height,  producing  a  delightful  alternation  of  hill  and 
dale,  which  is  sometimes  varied  by  a  rich  prairie  or 
burr- oak  grove. 

The  principal  rivers  of  the  State  are  the  Grand, 
St.  Joseph's,  Kalamazoo,  the  Eaisin,  the  Clinton,  the 
Huron,  and  the  Rouge.  The  Grand  is  two  hundred 
and  seventy  miles  in  length,  and  has  a  free  naviga 
tion  for  steamboats  which  ply  regularly  between 
Lake  Michigan  and  Grand  Eapids,  a  distance  of 
forty  miles.  The  Saginaw  empties  into  Lake  Huron 
and  is  navigable  for  sixty  miles.  These,  with  the 
others  we  have  named,  interlock  their  branches  run 
ning  through  different  parts  of  southern  Michigan, 
and  while  they  beautify  the  landscape  they  afford 
water-power  and  fertilize  the  soil. 

The  river  Cheboy-e-gun  is  the  largest  stream  in 
the  northern  portion  of  the  lower  peninsula  and 
empties  into  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw  opposite  Bois 


Old    Mackinaw.  1 29 

Blanc  Island.  At  its  mouth  is  a  village  containing 
two  steam  saw  mills  and  one  water  saw  mill.  A 
light-house  stands  a  mile  or  two  east  from  this  point. 
Brook-trout,  bass,  pike,  pickerel,  and  perch,  are 
caught  at  the  entrance  of  the  river.  In  the  fall  and 
spring  numerous  water-fowl  resort  to  the  upper  forks 
of  the  river  and  to  the  small  lakes  forming  its 
sources.  These  lakes  also  abound  with  a  great 
variety  of  fish,  which  can  be  taken  by  spearing. 

The  natural  scenery  of  Michigan  is  imposing.  The 
extensive  tracts  of  dense  forests,  clothed  with  the 
richest  verdure,  fresh  as  when  it  first  came  from  the 
hands  of  the  Creator ;  the  prairies  and  lakes  which 
abound,  the  wide  parks,  whose  soil  is  entirely  cov 
ered  for  miles  with  large  and  rich  flowers,  present 
a  striking  and  agreeable  contrast.  The  beech  and 
black  walnut,  the  elm,  the  maple,  the  hickory,  and 
the  oaks  of  different  species  and  large  size,  the  lind 
and  the  bass-wood,  and  various  other  kinds  of  forest 
trees,  plainly  indicate  the  fertility  of  the  soil  from 
whence  they  spring.  Grape  vines  often  hang  from 
the  branches  a  foot  in  circumference,  clustering 
around  their  trunks,  or  thickening  the  undergrowth 
along  the  banks  of  rivers;  and,  while  the  glades 
open  to  the  sun  like  cultivated  grounds,  the  more 
thickly-timbered  forests,  shut  out  from  the  sky  by 


130  Old  Mackinaw. 

the  mass  of  vegetation,  present  in  summer  a  gloomy 
twilight. 

In  traveling  along  the  main  roads  of  Michigan, 
splendid  tracts  of  park-like  lawns  sweep  along  the 
path  for  miles  covered  with  flowers,  broken  by 
prairies,  thick  forests,  and  lakes. 

Fort  Gratiot  stands  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Huron  and 
commands  the  entrance  to  the  upper  lakes.  Ad 
vancing  along  the  western  shore  of  this  lake  the 
voyager  sees  a  long,  alluvial  bank  covered  with  a 
forest  of  pine,  poplar,  beech,  and  hemlock. 

On  advancing  further  the  banks  become  more  ele 
vated  until  they  rise  to  forty  feet  in  height.  About 
fifty  miles  from  Fort  Gratiot,  a  large  rock  rises  to 
the  surface  of  the  lake,  a  mile  or  so  from  the  shore, 
which  is  called  the  "  White  Eock."  From  the  ear 
liest  period  this  rock  has  been  regarded  as  an  altar 
or  a  landmark.  It  was  to  the  early  voyagers  a  bea 
con  to  guide  them  in  their  course ;  but  to  the  In 
dians  it  was  a  place  of  oblation,  where  they  offered 
sacrifices  to  the  spirits  of  the  lakes. 

Saginaw  Bay  is  a  large  indentation  of  the  shore 
line  like  to  that  of  Green  Bay  in  Lake  Michigan, 
but  not  so  large.  Near  its  centre  are  a  number  of 
small  islands.  Twenty  miles  from  its  mouth  stands 
the  thriving  town  of  Saginaw.  From  the  north- 


Old  Mackinaw.  131 

westerly  cape  of  Saginaw  Bay  to  Flat  Rock  Point, 
the  shore  of  Lake  Huron  presents  a  bank  of  alluvial 
soil,  with  a  margin  of  sand  along  its  border  inter 
sected  with  frequent  masses  of  limestone  rock,  in 
some  places  ground  to  fragments  by  the  surging  of 
the  waves. 

Thunder  Bay  is  also  another  indentation  made 
by  the  Lake.  It  was  thus  called  from  the  impres 
sion  that  at  this  point  the  air  was  more  than  ordina 
rily  charged  with  electricity. 

Bois  Blanc  Island,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Huron, 
stretches  in  the  form  of  a  crescent  between  the 
Island  of  Mackinac  and  the  lower  peninsula  of  Mi 
chigan.  It  is  from  ten  to  twelve  miles  in  length  by 
three  or  four  in  breadth.  The  lower  part  of  this 
island  is  sandy,  but  the  larger  portion  of  it  is 
covered  with  a  fertile  soil  bearing  a  forest  of  elm, 
maple,  oak,  ash,  white-wood  and  beech.  It  has  been 
surveyed  and  a  government  light-house  stands  on  its 
eastern  point. 

In  the  northern  part  of  Lake  Michigan  are  located 
Beaver  Islands.  There  are  five  or  six  of  this  group 
bearing  different  names.  Big  Beaver  is  the  most 
considerable,  and  contains  perhaps  forty  square 
miles.  These  islands  all  lie  in  the  vicinity  of  each 
other,  and  within  a  few  miles  northwest  of  Grand 


132  Old  Mackinaw. 

and  Little  Traverse  Bays  in  Lake  Michigan.  The 
Big  Beaver  was,  up  to  July,  1856.  in  possession 
of  the  Mormons,  who  claimed  it  as  a  gift  from  the 
Lord. 

Another  interesting  locality  is  Drummond's  Island, 
between  the  Detour  and  the  False  Detour.  It  was 
taken  possession  of  by  the  British  troops  when  they 
surrendered  Fort  Mackinaw  in  1814.  On  this  island 
they  built  a  fort  and  formed  quite  a  settlement. 
Upon  an  examination  of  the  boundary  line  between 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  it  was  ascer 
tained  that  this  island  was  within  the  jurisdiction 
of  the  former,  and  it  was  accordingly  evacuated  by 
the  British  in  1828.  The  British  subjects  living  on 
the  island  followed  the  troops,  and  the  place  was 
soon  deserted  and  became  a  desolation. 

St.  Helena  Island  is  a  small  island  near  the 
Straits  of  Mackinaw,  not  far  from  the  shore  of  the 
northern  peninsula,  containing  a  few  acres  over  a 
section  of  land.  It  is  a  great  fishing  station,  and 
enjoys  a  good  harbor  protected  from  westerly 
winds.  Its  owner,  who  has  exiled  himself  a  la  Na 
poleon,  spends  his  time  in  fishing,  and  other  pursuits 
adapted  to  his  mind. 

In  addition  to  the  numerous  islands  constituting 
the  surroundings  of  Mackinaw  there  are  a  number 


Old  Mackinaw.  133 

of  interesting  localities  denominated  "  Points,  that 
rve  must  not  omit  to  mention.  The  first,  because  the 
most  important,  and  one  which  is  connected  with 
many  historic  associations  which  we  shall  direct 
attention  to,  is  the  "  Iroquois  Woman's  Point,"  the 
Indian  name  for  Point  St.  Ignatius  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  straits  from  Mackinaw,  distant  between 
fchree  and  four  miles,  about  the  same  as  from  the 
Battery  at  New  York  to  Staten  Island.  The  origi 
nal  inhabitants  with  their  descendants  have  long 
since  passed  away.  Its  present  occupants  are  prin 
cipally  Canadians.  It  has  a  Catholic  chapel. 

Point  La  Barbe,  opposite  to  Green  Island  Shoals 
and  Mackinaw,  is  a  projection  of  the  upper  penin 
sula  into  the  straits.  It  is  four  miles  distant  from 
Gross  Cape,  and  derives  its  name  from  a  custom 
which  prevailed  among  the  Indian  traders  in  olden 
time  on  their  annual  return  to  Mackinaw  of  stop 
ping  here  and  putting  on  their  best  apparel  before 
making  their  appearance  among  the  people  of  that 
place. 

About  half  way  between  Mackinaw  and  Cheboy- 
e-gun,  a  projection  from  the  lower  peninsula  into 
the  straits,  is  Point  aux  Sable.  Point  St.  Vital  is  a 
cape  projecting  into  Lake  Huron  from  the  south 
eastern  extremity  of  the  upper  peninsula.  There  is 
12 


134  C^d  Mackinaw. 

a  reef  of  rocks  off  this  point  where  the  steamer 
Queen  City  was  wrecked.  On  a  clear  day  this  point 
may  be  seen  from  Fort  Holmes,  and  it  presents  an 
enchanting  view.  The  St.  Martin's  Islands  are  also 
in  full  view  from  this  point. 

In  the  southwestern  part  of  the  straits,  about 
twenty  miles  distant  from  Mackinaw,  is  Fox  Point. 
A  light-house  has  been  erected  on  a  shoal  extending 
out  two  miles  into  the  lake.  Moneto-pa-maw  is  a 
high  bluff  still  further  west,  on  the  shore  of  Michi 
gan,  where  there  are  fine  fisheries,  and  is  a  place  of  con 
siderable  resort.  Further  west,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Mille  au  Coquin  river  which  empties  into  Michi 
gan,  there  are  also  excellent  fisheries,  and  to  those 
who  are  fond  of  this  kind  of  sport  apart  from  the 
profit  connected  with  it,  there  is  no  place  in  the 
world  possessing  half  the  attractions  as  Mackinaw 
and  its  surroundings,  while  the  "  Mackinaw  trout," 
with  the  "  Mackinaw  boat"  and  the  "  Mackinaw 
blanket,"  are  famous  over  the  world. 

Between  Little  Traverse  and  Mackinaw-is  the  vil 
lage  of  Cross,  or  La  Crosse.  The  following  interest 
ing  account  of  a  visit  to  that  place  is  taken  from  the 
Mackinaw  Herald  in  1859  : 

"  The  name  of  this  village — '  Cross,'  recalls  to  one's 
mind,  some  reminiscences  connected  with  the  early 


Old  Mackinaw.  135 

history  of  the  Indian  Missions.  Suffice  it  to  observe, 
that  it  derives  its  name  from  the  circumstance  of  a  large 
cross  having  stood  for  many  years  on  the  brow  of 
the  hill,  on  which  the  present  Indian  village  stands, 
planted  there  by  some  of  the  followers  of  James 
Marquette,  during  their  explorations  and  missions 
in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  old  cross  was  of 
oak,  and  was  still  standing  about  forty-five  years 
ago.  Recently  it  has  been  replaced  by  another.  An 
old  Indian,  called  The  Short- Arm,  over  whose  head 
some  eighty  winters  had  passed,  was  still  living  in 
1836,  and  who,  when  a  little  boy,  recollected  to  have 
seen  the  last  Missionary  of  this  place.  '  I  am  old, 
my  children,'  said  the  aged  Missionary,  '  and  I  wish 
to  die  among  my  own  people — I  must  leave  you.' 
He  left ;  and  in  the  course  of  time  the  Arbre-Croche 
Indians  relapsed  into  Paganism.  They  continued  in 
this  state  until  a  young  Christian  Ottawa,  named 
Aw-taw-weesh,  who  had  just  returned  from  among  the 
Catholic  Algonquins  in  Canada,  appeared  among 
them  and  taught  religion.  He  became  also,  in  some 
respects,  what  Cadmus  was  of  old,  or  Guess  among 
the  Cherokees — the  first  teacher  of  letters,  among 
his  people.  As  writing  paper  was  then  scarce,  at 
least  among  the  Indians,  he  taught  them  to  write  on 
birch  bark,  with  sharpened  sticks,  instead  of  pens. 


136  Old  Mackinaw. 

This  man  is  still  living.  He  is  now  old,  poor,  al 
most  entirely  blind ;  and  although  having  been  a 
real  benefactor  to  his  people,  he  may  go  down  to  his 
grave,  unpitied,  and  unknown. 

"But  awakened  by  his  teachings,  the  Indians  after 
ward  called  loudly  on  Missionaries  to  come  among 
them,  and  they  have  had  them  during  the  past 
thirty  or  forty  years. 

"  At  this  day  two  Catholic  Clergymen  and  a  Con 
vent  of  four  Brothers  and  twelve  Sisters — being 
a  religious  community,  of  the  Third  Order  of  St. 
Francis — are  stationed  at  this  place.  But,  to  return  : 
As  rough  voyaging  generally  gives  keen  appetite, 
so  the  party  did  ample  justice  to  the  eatables,  which 
had  been  prepared  by  the  Indians.  Perhaps  some 
reader  at  a  distance  might  suppose  this  supper  to  have 
been  taken  in  a  wigwam;  with  the  fire-place  in  the 
centre,  a  hole  above  for  the  escape  of  smoke ;  and 
the  party  squatting  down  upon  the  ground,  with 
legs  crossed  in  tailor  fashion,  around  a  single  dish  : 
no,  no ;  but  it  was  prepared  in  a  good,  substantial 
house ;  on  a  table  with  a  table-cloth,  with  crockery, 
dishes,  tea-cups  and  saucers,  and  knives  and  forks, 
such  as  are  used  by  common  white  folks.  Then 
there  stood  the  waiters,  ready  to  assist  the  double- 
handed  manipulations  going  on  at  the  table.  At 
a  convenient  hour,  the  party  separated  for  the  night ; 


Old   Mackinaw.  137 

the  agent  was  put  in  possession  of  the  clergyman's 
house,  then  temporarily  absent  on  a  mission,  by  the 
Eev.  Mr.  Weikamp,  the  Superior  of  the  Convent. 

''  The  next  day,  after  the  forenoon  services  of  the 
church  at  the  village,  the  agent  and  party,  according 
to  previous  invitation,  went  to  the  Convent  for 
dinner.  Arrived  there,  they  were  introduced  first 
into  a  log  cabin,  situated  at  some  distance  in  the  rear 
of  the  convent,  occupied  by  the  four  Brothers,  be 
longing  to  the  order,  and  the  Rev.  Superior.  He 
occupies  a  single  room,  in  real  new-settler  style. 
This  is  his  sitting-room,  library,  study  and  bed-room. 
He  has  traveled  in  Europe,  and  some  parts  of  Asia ; 
he  has  various  objects  of  curiosity ;  and  among  these 
is  a  silver  coin  of  about  the  size  and  value  of  a  Mexi 
can  quarter  of  a  dollar,  which  he  brought  with  him 
from  Jerusalem.  This  piece  of  money  is  said  to  be 
one  of  the  kind  of  which  Judas  received  thirty  pieces, 
from  the  chief  priests  and  magistrates,  the  price  for 
which  he  sold  his  Divine  Master.  Another  thing,  is 
a  Turkish  pipe,  with  its  long,  pliable  stem,  with 
which  the  lover  of  the  '  weed'  could  regale  himself 
without  being  annoyed  by  the  smoke,  as  usual ;  for 
the  pipe,  which  is  made  somewhat  in  the  shape  and 
of  the  size  of  a  small  decanter  and  half  filled  with 
water  is  so  arranged  that  while  the  wet  tobacco  ..> 
12* 


138  Old  Mackinaw, 

burning  in  the  cup  on  the  top,  the  smoke,  during 
suction  at  the  stem,  descends  through  a  tube  into 
the  water,  and  none  of  it  escapes  visibly,  into  the 
open  air.  The  Kev.  Mr.  Weikamp,  the  Superior,  is 
a  German,  and  speaks  English  fluently.  He  is  in 
the  prime  o'f  life,  and  is  full  of  energy  and  persever 
ance.  He  is  not  one  of  those  who,  from  the  fact  of  be 
longing  to  a  religious  order,  may  be  supposed  to  be 
gloomy,  with  head  bowed  down,  not  hardly  daring 
to  cast  his  eyes  up  into  the  beautiful  light  of  the 
heavens;  but  he  converses  with  freedom,  ease  and 
assurance ;  and  he  relishes  a  joke  as  well  as  any  man, 
when  it  comes  a  propos.  A  fanciful  peculiarity, 
though  nothing  strange  in  it,  attends  his  steps  wher 
ever  he  goes,  in  the  shape  of  a  small  black  dog 
called  "  Finnic,"  with  a  string  of  small  horse-bells 
round  his  neck.  "Finnic"  has  two  black,  watery 
and  glistening  spots  in  his  head  for  eyes,  which  seem 
ready  to  shoot  out  from  their  sockets,  especially 
when  spoken  to.  When  told  in  German,  to  speak, 
'Finnic'  begins  to  tremble — he  shakes  his  head — 
jingles  his  bells;  and  utters  a  kind  of  guttural  snuff 
ling,  and  half-suppressed  growl  or  bark.  But,  as  we 
are  not  acquainted  with  the  German  language,  we 
cannot  say,  that  "  Finnic"  pronounces  it  well ! 

"Dinner  being  announced  at  the  convent,  the  party 


Old  Mackinaw. 

went  over  with  the  Superior  to  partake  of  it.  Every 
thing  about  the  table  was  scrupulously  neat — an 
abundance  of  the  substantial  of  good  living  had 
been  prepared  by  the  Sisters.  Some  time  after 
dinner  the  vesper  bell  rang  at  the  convent;  and  by 
special  permission,  the  party  were  shown  into  the 
choir  usually  occupied  by  the  Brothers  alone  during 
the  services  of  the  church.  This  was  on  one  side  of 
the  altar ;  and  on  the  other,  was  a  similar  choir  for 
the  sisters.  In  the  body  of  the  church,  the  Indians 
or  others  are  admitted.  For  a  few  moments  after 
entering,  all  was  silence ; — but  the  priest  having  in 
toned  the  vespers,  the  sweet  tones  of  a  large  melo- 
deon  suddenly  swelled  through  the  sanctuary,  ming 
ling  with  the  voices  of  the  sisters.  This  for  a  time 
had  a  singular  effect.  To  hear  music  in  these  wild 
woods,  far  away  from  civilized  society  where  instru 
mental  music  forms  part  of  the  ordinary  pleasures 
and  amenities  of  life,  served  to  recall  to  one's  memory 
other  days  and  other  climes.  After  vespers,  the 
Superior  of  the  convent  conducted  the  party  through 
the  building  to  view  it.  The  dimensions  are :  160 
feet  long,  80  wide,  and  28  feet  high.  There  are  two 
court  yards,  each  40  by  40  feet,  and  the  church  also 
40  by  40,  placed  between  them.  When  finished,  this 
building  will  contain  108  bedrooms,  a  large  school- 


140  Old  Mackinaw. 

room,  carpenter  and  blacksmith  shops,  dining-rooms, 
kitchen,  store-rooms,  halls,  corridors,  &c.  It  will  be 
separated  into  two  parts ;  one  to  be  occupied  exclu 
sively  by  the  Sisters,  and  the  other  by  the  Brothers. 
At  the  time  of  this  visit,  there  were  some  cultivated 
flowers  yet  in  bloom  in  the  court-yard.  So  much 
for  the  material  building :  and  now  a  hasty  sketch 
of  this  religious  order  may  not  be  unacceptable  to 
some  of  our  readers. 

"This  religious  community,  is  the  Third  Order  of 
St.  Francis,  of  Assisi,  instituted  in  Europe  by  this 
saint  in  1221.  It  was  established  for  persons  mar 
ried  or  single  living  in  the  world,  united  by  certain 
pious  exercises,  compatible  with  a  secular  state.  It 
soon  spread  over  all  Europe,  and  even  kings  and 
queens  on  their  thrones  vied  with  the  poorest  pea 
sants  in  eagerly  entering  this  order,  to  share  the 
labors  of  the  mission  within  its  sphere,  and  to  parti 
cipate  in  its  spiritual  benefits.  Among  the  persons 
of  this  order,  who  were  expelled  from  their  cloister 
homes  during  the  revolution  which  agitated  Europe 
in  1848,  was  Sister  Teresa  Hackelmayer.  This  nun, 
at  the  proposal  of  a  missionary  father  in  America, 
and  by  permission  of  her  Superior,  came  to  New 
York  in  the  winter  of  1851,  to  establish  a  com 
munity  of  her  order  in  that  State.  But  meeting 


Old  Mackinaw.  141 

with  disappointment  there,  she  finally  established  a 
convent  at  Oldenburg,  in  the  State  of  Indiana.  In 
1851,  a  second  convent  of  this  order  was  founded  at 
Nojoshing,  four  miles  from  Milwaukee,  on  Lake 
Michigan.  In  1853,  the  Kev.  J.  B.  Weikamp 
founded,  in  West  Chicago,  the  third  convent  of  this 
order,  and  also  formed  a  community  of  Brothers ; — 
and  in  October  1855,  with  the  understanding  of 
Bishop  Baraga,  then  Vicar  Apostolic  of  Upper  Michi 
gan,  he  transferred  those  two  communities  to  '  Cross 
Village' — his  present  location. 

The  company  having  ranged  through  the  building, 
as  observed,  took  a  walk  outside.  From  the  south 
side  of  the  convent,  a  broad  walk  is  laid  out  reaching 
to  an  inclosure  of  some  forty  feet  square,  at  the  dis 
tance  of  about  fifteen  rods.  Another  and  narrower 
walk  through  the  centre  of  this  inclosure  leads  to  a 
small  square  building,  on  the  opposite  side,  having 
a  four-sided  roof  meeting  in  a  point,  and  surmounted 
by  a  cross.  On  entering  this  building,  a  lounge  or 
settee,  stands  in  front,  and  on  the  wall  above  it,  hangs  a 
piece  of  board  or  canvass,  painted  black,  on  which  are 
human  skulls  of  different  sizes,  each  with  two  cross 
bones  painted  in  white.  A  trap-door  is  raised  from 
the  floor,  and  a  deep,  spacious  vault  is  opened  to 
view :  this  is  the  place  of  burial  for  the  Superior  of 


142  Old  Mackinaw. 

the  convent.  On  the  outside,  the  spaces  on  either  side 
of  the  little  walk  are  intended  to  be  the  last  resting- 
places  of  the  brothers  and  sisters.  It  is  a  solemn 
thought  to  see  men  thus  prepare  deliberately  for 
Death  !  But  as  the  party  retraced  their  steps  in  such 
cheerful,  good  humor,  loitering  toward  the  convent, 
one  might  have  supposed  that  the  beautiful  weather, 
the  bright  sunshine,  and  the  bracing  air  had,  for  the 
time,  scattered  away  all  thoughts  of  death.  Among 
the  questions  proposed  to  the  Superior  was,  '  Whe 
ther  at  any  time  the  brothers  and  sisters  were  al 
lowed  to  have  social,  familiar  intercourse  with  each 
other?'  The  Superior  answered,  in  substance,  that 
they  were  not ;  nor  even  allowed  to  speak  to  each 
other,  without  permission  of  the  Superior.  '  Then 
according  to  your  principle,'  some  one  rejoined,  '  the 
world  would  soon  come  to  an  end !'  The  remark 
raised  a  general  laugh,  in  which  the  Superior  him 
self  joined  heartily." 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Three  epochs — The  romantic — The  military — The  agricultural 
and  commercial — An  inviting  region — Jesuit  and  Protestant 
missions  —  First  Protestant  mission  —  First  missionary  — 
Islands  of  Mackinac  and  Green  Bay — La  Pointe — Saut  St. 
Mary — Presbyterians  —  Baptists  —  Methodists  —  Revival  at 
Fort  Brady  —  Ke-wee-naw — Fon  du  Lac — Shawnees — Potta- 
watimies — Eagle  River— Ontonagon— Camp  River — Iroquois 
Point — Saginaw  Indians — Melancholy  reflections — Number 
of  Indians  in  the  States  and  Territories. 

THE  history  of  this  region,  in  the  language  of  one, 
exhibits  three  distinct  and  strongly  marked  epochs. 
The  first  may  be  properly  denominated  the  romantic, 
which  extends  to  the  year  1760,  when  its  dominion 
passed  from  the  hands  of  the  French  to  the  English. 
This  was  the  period  when  the  first  beams  of  civiliza 
tion  had  scarcely  penetrated  its  forests,  and  the  pad 
dles  of  the  French  fur  trader  swept  the  lakes,  and 
the  boat  songs  of  the  voyageurs  awakened  the  tribes 
on  their  wild  and  romantic  shores. 

(143) 


144  Old  Mackinaw. 

The  second  epoch  is  the  military,  which  com 
menced  with  the  Pontaic  war,  running  down  through 
the  successive  struggles  of  the  British,  the  Indians, 
and  the  Americans,  to  obtain  dominion  of  the  coun 
try,  and  ending  with  the  victory  of  Commodore  Perry, 
the  defeat  of  Proctor,  the  victory  of  General  Harrison 
and  the  death  of  Tecumseh,  the  leader  of  the  Anglo- 
savage  conspiracy  on  the  banks  of  the  Thames. 

The  third  may  be  denominated  the  enterprising, 
the  hardy,  the  mechanical,  and  working  period,  com 
mencing  with  the  opening  of  the  country  to  emi 
grant  settlers,  the  age  of  agriculture,  commerce,  and 
manufactures,  of  harbors,  cities,  canals,  and  railroads, 
when  the  landscapes  of  the  forest  were  meted  out  by 
the  compass  and  chain  of  the  surveyor,  when  its 
lakes  and  rivers  were  sounded,  and  their  capacity, 
to  turn  the  wheel  of  a  mill  or  to  float  a  ship,  were 
demonstrated,  thus  opening  up  avenues  of  commerce 
and  industry.  Its  wild  and  savage  character  has 
passed  away,  and  given  place  to  civilization,  religion, 
and  commerce,  inviting  the  denizens  of  over-crowded 
cities  to  its  broad  lakes  and  beautiful  rivers,  its  rich 
mines  and  fertile  prairies,  and  promising  a  rapid  and 
abundant  remuneration  for  toil. 

"We  have  alluded  to  the  labors  and  sacrifices  of 
the  Jesuit  missionaries  in  the  early  period  of  the 


Old  Mackinaw.  145 

history  of  the  northwest,  and  it  is  right  and  proper 
that  the  labors  of  the  Protestant  missionaries,  though 
of  a  much  later  period,  should  not  be  forgotten. 
The  Jesuit  fathers  were  not  alone  in  sacrifice  and 
toil  in  introducing  the  Gospel  among  the  tribes  of 
the  northwest.  The  first  Protestant  missions  estab 
lished  in  this  region,  as  far  as  we  have  been  able  to 
learn,  were  those  of  the  Presbyterian  Church  on  the 
Island  of  Mackinac  and  at  Green  Bay. 

The  first  missionary  who  visited  Mackinaw  was 
the  Kev.  David  Bacon,  father  of  the  Kev.  Leonard 
Bacon,  D.  D.,  of  New  Haven.  He  was  sent  out  by 
the  Connecticut  Missionary  Society  in  1800,  and 
commenced  his  mission  in  Detroit,  where,  after  re 
maining  a  year  or  two,  he  relinquished  his  field  to 
a  Moravian  missionary,  Rev.  Mr.  Denky,  and  visited 
the  Indians  on  the  Maumee.  From  this  he  returned 
to  Detroit,  and  from  thence  went  to  Mackinac,  where 
he  remained  until  the  missionary  society  was  com 
pelled,  from  want  of  funds,  to  recall  their  mis 
sionary. 

The  following  interesting  account  was  given  by 
C.  J.  "Walker,  Esq.,  before  the  Historical  Society  of 
Detroit : 

"  The  Connecticut  Missionary  Society  is,  I  believe, 
the  oldest  Missionary  Association  in  America.  It 
13 


146  Old  Mackinaw. 

was  organized  in  June,  1795,  the  General  Associa 
tion  of  Connecticut,  at  its  annual  meeting  that  year, 
having  organized  itself  into  a  society  of  that  name. 
Its  object  was  < to  Christianize  the  heathen  in  North 
America,  and  to  support  and  promote  Christian 
knowledge  in  the  new  settlements  within  the  United 
States.'  For  some  years  its  efforts  were  principally 
directed  to  sending  missionaries  '  to  the  new  settle 
ments  in  Vermont,  New  York,  and  Pennsylvania,' 
and  subsequently  'New  Connecticut,'  or  the  West 
ern  Reserve  of  Ohio,  became  an  important  field  of 
its  operations.  The  trustees,  in  June,  1800,  deter 
mined  '  that  a  discreet  man,  animated  by  the  love  of 
God  and  souls,  of  a  good  common  education,  be 
sought  for,  to  travel  among  the  Indian  tribes  south 
and  west  of  Lake  Erie,  to  explore  their  situation 
and  learn  their  feelings  with  respect  to  Christianity, 
and  so  far  as  he  has  opportunity  to  teach  them  its 
doctrines  and  duties.'  A  very  sensible  letter  of 
'Instructions'  was  adopted  and  a  long  message  'to 
the  Indian  tribes  bordering  on  Lake  Erie'  prepared, 
showing  very  little  knowledge  of  Indian  mind  and 
character.  Mr.  David  Bacon  presented  himself  as  a 
candidate  for  this  somewhat  unpromising  field  of 
labor.  His  son  says  he  was  one  of  those  men  who 
are  called  visionary  and  enthusiasts  by  men  of  more 


Old  Mackinaw.  147 

prosaic  and  plodding  temperament.  He  had  not  a, 
liberal  education,  but  was  a  man  of  eminent  intellec 
tual  powers  and  of  intensely  thoughtful  habits,  and 
beside  a  deep  religious  experience,  he  had  endeavored 
dilligently  to  fit  himself  for  a  missionary  life,  the 
self-denying  labors  of  which  he  ardently  coveted. 
On  examination  Mr.  Bacon  was  accepted. 

"  On  the  8th  of  August,  1800,  Mr.  Bacon  left  Hart 
ford  on  foot  with  his  pack  upon  his  back,  and  on  the 
4th  of  September  he  was  at  Buffalo,  having  walked 
most  of  the  distance.  On  the  8th,  he  left  on  a 
vessel  for  this' city,  which  he  reached  after  a  quick 
and  pleasant  voyage  on  the  llth.  He  was  made 
welcome  at  the  house  of  the  commandant,  Major 
Hunt,  where,  I  believe,  his  first  religious  services 
were  held.  Gen.  Uriah  Tracy,  of  Litchfield,  Conn., 
General  Agent  of  the  United  States  for  the  Western 
Indians,  was  then  here,  and,  together  with  the  local 
Indian  agent,  Jonathan  Schieffelin,  took  an  active 
interest  in  the  mission  of  Mr.  Bacon.  John  Askin, 
Esq.,  the  same  liberal-minded  merchant,  who  so  es 
sentially  befriended  the  Moravians  twenty  years  be 
fore,  and  Benjamin  Huntington,  a  merchant  here, 
formerly  of  Norwich,  Conn.,  rendered  him  valuable 
information  and  assistance.  Learning  from  these 
sources  that  the  Delawares  at  Sandusky,  were  about 


148  Old  Mackinaw. 

to  remove,  that  the  Wyandottes  were  mostly  Catho 
lics,  and  that  there  were  no  other  Indians  'south 
and  west  of  Lake  Erie/  among  whom  there  was  an 
inviting  field  of  labor,  his  attention  was  turned  to 
the  north,  and,  with  the  advice  of  these  judicious 
friends,  on  the  13th  of  September,  he  took  passage 
with  General  Tracy  in  a  government  vessel  bound 
for  Mackinac,  and  went  to  Harson's  Island,  at  the 
head  of  Lake  St.  Clair,  near  which  there  was  quite 
an  Indian  settlement.  Although  only  forty  miles 
distant,  he  did  not  reach  there  until  the  17th,  being 
four  days  upon  the  voyage.  Jacob  Harson  or  Hars- 
ing,  as  it  was  originally  spelled,  the  proprietor  of 
this  island,  was  an  Albany  Dutchman,  who,  in  1766, 
on  appointment  of  Sir  Win.  Johnson,  came  to  Nia 
gara  as  Indian  blacksmith  and  gunsmith,  and  his 
original  commission  or  letter  of  appointment,  written 
by  Sir  William,  is  now  before  me.  On  the  breaking 
out  of  the  Eevolution,  finding  Mr.  Harson  friendly 
to  the  Americans,  the  British  stripped  him  of  his 
property  and  sent  him,  sorely  against  his  will, 
to  this  frontier.  He  established  himself  upon  the 
island  as  early  as  1786,  where  his  descendants 
now  reside,  acquired  great  influence  with  the  In 
dians,  and  lived  in  a  very  comfortable  manner.  He 
received  Mr.  Bacon  in  this  beautiful  retreat,  with 


Old  Mackinaw.  149 

great  kindness  and  hospitality,  and  he  thanks  the 
Lord  that  he  is  provided  a  comfortable  house,  a  con 
venient  study,  and  as  good  a  bed  and  as  good  board 
as  I  should  have  had  if  I  had  remained  in  Connecti 
cut.  I  know  of  no  place  in  the  State  of  New  York 
so  healthy  as  this,  I  believe  the  water  and  the  air  as 
pure  here  as  in  any  part  of  New  England,  and  I 
have  never  been  before  where  venison  and  wild 
geese  and  ducks  were  so  plenty,  or  where  there  was 
such  a  rich  variety  of  fresh-water  fish.  There  were 
many  Indians  in  the  vicinity.  Mr.  Harson  encour 
aged  the  establishment  of  a  mission,  and  Mr.  Bacon 
deemed  it  a  most  favorable  opening.  Bernardus 
Harson,  a  son  of  Jacob,  was  engaged  as  interpreter. 
He  returned  to  Detroit  on  the  same  vessel  with 
General  Tracy,  Sept.  30th,  to  attend  an  Indian  Coun 
cil  which  was  held  here  on  the  7th  of  October,  when 
he  was  formally  introduced  to  the  Indians  by  General 
Tracy,  and  was  most  favorably  received.  He  re 
turned  to  the  island  and  remained  until  the  Indians 
departed  for  their  winter  hunting  grounds,  when  he 
left  for  Connecticut,  where  he  arrived  about  the 
middle  of  December.  He  was  soon  ordained  to  the 
ministry,  and  I  believe  married,  for  he  returned  with 
a  young  wife  of  whom  nothing  is  heard  previously. 
"Late  in  January  1801,  Mr.  Bacon  commenced  his 


150  Old  Mackinaw. 

return  journey  with  his  wife  and  her  brother,  Beau 
mont  Parks.  Esq.,  now  of  Springfield,  Illinois,  a 
young  man  who  came  with  him  to  learn  the  Chip- 
pewa  language  and  to  become  a  teacher.  The 
sleighing  leaving  them  they  remained  at  Bloomfield, 
Ontario  county,  New  York,  until  spring,  and  did  not 
reach  here  until  May  9th.  Mr.  Bacon's  plan  was  to 
remain  at  Detroit,  until  he  became  so  familar  with 
the  Indian  language  that  he  could  successfully  pro 
secute  his  mission.  He  remained  here  until  the 
spring  of  1802,  holding  regular  religious  services  in 
the  Council  House.  For  a  time  he  preached  twice 
upon  the  Sabbath,  but  the  afternoon  attendance  be 
ing  thin,  he  accepted  a  call  from  the  settlement  on  the 
river  Eouge  to  preach  to  them  half  a  day.  To  aid  in 
defraying  expenses  he  commenced  keeping  a  school  in 
the  house  where  he  lived  on  St.  James  street,  just  in 
the  rear  of  the  Masonic  Hall,  and  in  this  he  was  as 
sisted  by  his  wife.  One  at  least  of  our  present  fel 
low  citizens  was  a  pupil  of  Mr.  Bacon,  and  has  plea 
sant  memories  of  that  little  school.  Amid  many 
discouragements  the  study  of  the  Chippewa  was 
pursued  by  this  missionary  family,  and  although  they 
made  '  but  slow  progress'  and  it  was  '  hard  work  to 
commit  their  words  to  memory'  and  'extremely  dif 
ficult  to  construct  a  sentence  according  to  the  idioms 


Old  Mackinaw.  151 

of  their  language,'  they  '  hope  and  expect  we  shall 
be  able  to  surmount  every  difficulty.' 

"  While  thus  toilfully  but  hopefully  preparing  for 
his  anticipated  work,  getting  acquainted  with  Indians, 
their  life  and  character,  and  as  yet  uncertain  at  what 
precise  point  to  commence  his  mission,  Mr.  Denhey, 
a  Moravian  missionary,  desired  to  occupy  the  field 
upon  the  St.  Glair  Eiver,  which  Mr.  Bacon  in  some 
measure  occupied  the  year  before,  and  to  this  Mr. 
Bacon  assented.  His  attention  had  been  called  to 
Mackinac  and  L'Arbre  Croche,  but  he  resolved  to 
visit  the  Indians  upon  the  Maumee,  and  ascertain  by 
personal  interviews  and  examination  what  encourage 
ment  there  was  for  a  mission  in  that  vicinity.  For 
this  purpose,  with  his  brother-in-law  and  a  hired 
man,  on  29th  of  April,  1802,  he  left  in  a  canoe  for 
the  'Miami,' as  the  Maumee  was  then  called.  He 
found  most  of  the  Indian  chiefs  engaged  in  a  drunken 
debauch,  and  it  was  not  until  the  14th  of  May, 
and  after  repeated  efforts,  that  he  succeeded  in 
gathering  a  full  council,  and  addressing  them  upon 
the  subject  of  establishing  a  mission  among  them. 
He  felt  it  his  duty  to  have  translated  the  message  sent 
to  the  Indians  by  the  Missionary  Society.  The  poor 
savages  listened  courteously  to  this  long  piece  of 
abstruse  theological  narrative  and  argument,  but 


152  Old  Mackinaw. 

they  must  have  been  terribly,  bored,  notwithstand 
ing  Mr.  Bacon's  efforts  to  '  express  the  ideas  in  lan 
guage  better  adapted  to  the  capacity  and  more 
agreeable  to  their  ways  of  speaking.'  No  wonder 
that  Little  Otter  was  '  too  unwell  to  attend  in  the 
afternoon.'  After  this  translation.  Mr.  Bacon  made 
a  well  conceived  speech  of  considerable  length,  set 
ting  forth  the  advantages  which  the  Indians  would 
derive  from  a  mission.  There  was  no  little  point  in 
the  polished  reproof  of  Little  Otter,  in  the  commence 
ment  of  his  speech,  who  said :  'Now  brother,  if  you 
will  listen  to  us  we  will  give  you  an  answer.  But  it 
is  our  way  to  be  very  short.  Our  white  brothers, 
when  they  make  speeches,  are  very  lengthy.  They 
read  and  write  so  much  that  they  get  in  a  great 
many  little  things.  But  it  is  not  so  with  your  red 
brothers.  When  we  go  on  any  great  business  and 
have  any  great  things  to  say,  we  say  them  in  a  few 
words.'  With  no  little  ingenuity,  but  with  apparent 
courtesy,  these  sons  of  the  forest  declined  a  mission 
in  their  midst.  The  gist  of  the  reply  is  contained  in 
the  following  sentence :  '  Brother,  your  religion  is 
very  good ;  but  it  is  only  good  for  white  people. 
It  will  not  do  for  Indians,  they  are  quite  a  different 
sort  of  people.' 

"  On  the  following  day  Mr.  Bacon  started  for  De- 


Old  Mackinaw.  153 

troit,  and  remained  here  until  June  2d,  when,  with 
his  family,  he  removed  to  Missilimackinac,  then  the 
great  centre  of  Indian  population  in  our  Territory. 
Here  he  remained  until  August  1804,  perfecting 
himself  in  the  language,  teaching,  preaching  and 
pursuing  the  other  labors  incident  to  his  mission. 
He  very  clearly  saw  that  a  successful  Indian  mission 
involved  no  inconsiderable  expenditure  in  establishing 
schools  and  in  educating  the  Indians  in  agriculture 
and  the  ruder  arts  of  civilization.  These  expendi 
tures  were  too  large  for  the  means  of  the  Missionary 
Society,  and  in  January,  1804,  they  directed  the 
mission  to  abandoned,  and  that  Mr.  Bacon  should 
remove  to  the  Western  Eeserve.  The  intelligence 
of  this  reached  Mr.  Bacon  in  July,  and  in  August  he 
removed  and  became  the  first  founder  of  the  town  of 
Tallmadge,  Ohio.  Thus  ended  this  first  Protestant 
effort  to  convert  the  Indians  of  Michigan  to  the  faith 
of  the  cross.  It  was  while  Mr.  Bacon  was  residing 
here  that  Rev.  Dr.  Bacon  was  born.  We  may  there 
fore,  with  pride,  claim  him  as  a  native  of  our  beau 
tiful  city." 

Sometime  after  a  mission  was  established  at  La 
Pointe  near  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake  Supe 
rior.  The  Mission  at  Mackinac  was  subsequently 
revived  and  continued  until  1837,  when  the  popu- 


154  Old    Mackinaw. 

lation  had  so  entirely  changed,  and  the  Indians  had 
discontinued  their  visits  for  purposes  of  trade, 
that  it  was  deemed  best  to  abandon  it,  which  was 
done,  and  the  property  sold.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Pitezel, 
in  his  "  Lights  and  Shade  of  Missionary  Life,"  who 
visited  the  island  in  1843,  thus  speaks  of  this  mis 
sion  :  •''  We  visited  the  mission  establishment  once 
under  the  care  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  but  now 
abandoned.  It  is  a  spacious  building,  and  was  once 
thronged  with  native  and  half-bred  children  and 
youth,  there  educated  at  vast  expense.  Little  of  the 
fruit  of  this  self-sacrificing  labor  is  thought  now  to 
be  apparent,  but  the  revelations  of  eternity  may 
show  that  here  was  a  necessary  and  a  very  impor 
tant  link  in  the  chain  of  events,  connected  with  the 
Christianization  of  benighted  pagans."  During  the 
time  of  Mr.  Pitezel's  visit,  a  large  number  of  Indians 
of  different  tribes  had  assembled  at  the  island,  for 
the  purpose  of  receiving  their  annuity,  among  which 
were  several  Christian  Indians,  from  Saut  St.  Mary, 
Grand  Traverse,  and  elsewhere.  The  Rev.  Mr. 
Daugherty,  a  Presbyterian  minister,  from  the  latter 
place,  accompanied  his  Indians,  and  had  his  tent 
among  them  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  his  sheep 
from  the  hands  of  the  woolfish  white  man,  who 


Old  Mackinaw.  155 

would  first  rob  him  of  his  religion,  and  then  of  his 
money. 

In  1828,  the  Baptists  established  a  mission  at 
Saut  St.  Mary.  This  mission  was  opened  under  the 
most  favorable  auspices  by  the  Kev.  A.  Bingham, 
and  continued  in  a  state  of  prosperity  for  many 
years.  In  1843  it  was  still  under  the  superintend 
ence  of  the  Eev.  Mr.  Bingham,  who  for  twenty  years 
had  been  laboring  to  bring  the  Indians  under  Chris 
tian  influence.  Indian  children  were  boarded  in 
the  mission  establishment,  and  a  school  was  kept  up, 
which,  in  the  language  of  one,  would  have  been  a 
credit  to  any  land.  The  Eev.  Mr.  Porter,  a  Congre- 
gationalist  missionary,  also  labored  here.  The  la 
bors  of  these  missionaries  were  greatly  blessed,  and 
numbers  of  officers  and  soldiers  at  the  fort  and  gar 
rison,  as  well  as  Indians,  were  converted. 

The  Baptist  missionaries  extended  their  labors  to 
various  points  on  the  northern  peninsula  and  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Superior. 

The  Methodists  commenced  a  mission  at  Saut  St. 
Mary,  under  the  labors  of  "John  Sunday."  a  con 
verted  Indian,  soon  after  that  established  by  the 
Baptists.  In  1831  a  portion  of  the  Oneida  Indians 
removed  to  Green  Bay,  and  the  Eev.  John  Clark  was 
sent  out  as  a  missionary  among  them  the  following 


156  Old  Mackinaw. 

year.  In  a  report  made  by  the  missionary  to  the 
Board,  he  thus  describes  his  field  of  labor :  "  The 
white  settlement  is  located  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Fox  Biver,  extending  up  the  river  about  five  miles 
from  the  head  of  the  bay.  The  population  is  about 
one  thousand,  but  greatly  amalgamated  with  the  Me- 
nominee  Indians,  over  whom  it  is  said  they  have 
great  influence.  The  Indian  settlement  is  about 
twenty -five  miles  from  this  place,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Fox  river."  Mr.  Clark  preached  at  this  set 
tlement  and  at  Green  Bay  on  alternate  Sabbaths. 
Messrs.  Marsh  and  Stevens,  of  the  Presbyterian 
church,  were  located  here,  laboring  among  the  Stock- 
bridge  Indians  and  kindly  welcomed  Mr.  Clark 
among  them.  These  Indians  emigrated  from  Stock- 
bridge,  Mass.,  and  were  at  one  time  under  the  pas 
toral  care  of  Jonathan  Edwards.  While  this  distin 
guished  divine  was  missionary  among  these  Indians, 
at  Stockbridge,  he  wrote  his  famous  ''Treatise  on 
the  Will."  Mr.  Clark  was  cordially  received  by  the 
Indian  agent,  Mr.  Schoolcraft. 

In  1833,  he  visited  Saut  St.  Mary,  and  found  a  revi 
val  in  progress.  Nearly  all  the  officers,  and  thirty  or 
forty  soldiers,  in  Fort  Brady  had  been  converted. 
The  command  was  soon  after  removed  to  Chicago, 
and  was  succeeded  by  another.  A  gracious  revival 


Old  Mackinaw.  157 

followed  his  labors  at  the  fort,  and  officers  and  sol 
diers  were  seen  bowing  at  the  same  altar,  happy  in 
the  enjoyment  of  a  common  salvation.  Still  holding 
his  connection  with  Green  Bay,  he  visited  that  place 
and  preached  in  Fort  Howard  and  also  among  his 
Indians  who  had  removed  to  Duck  Creek. 

At  Ke-wee-naw,  John  Sunday  commenced  a  mis 
sion  among  the  Chippewas,  and  in  1834  Mr.  Clark 
visited  that  interesting  field.  He  continued  to  su 
perintend  the  missions  in  this  region,  until  he  volun 
teered  as  a  missionary  for  Texas,  and  the  superin 
tendence  of  the  Indian  mission  was  given  to  the 
Eev.  W.  H.  Brockway.  The  Eev.  Mr.  Pitezel  la 
bored  at  Ke-wee-naw  with  great  success  for  several 
years,  preaching  at  the  different  mines  on  the  shores 
of  Lake  Superior.  The  Methodists  also  established 
a  mission  at  Fon  du  Lac  near  the  east  shore  of 
the  Winnebago  Lake.  In  the  year  1830,  a  branch 
mission  was  organized  among  the  Wyandottes  and 
Shawnees  on  the  Huron  river,  and  also  one  among 
the  Pottawatimees  at  Fort  Clark  on  the  Fox  river,  at 
which  place,  in  1837,  upward  of  one  hundred  were 
converted. 

In  1847  a  mission  was  established  at  the  Cliff 
Mine,  on  Eagle  River,  a  stream  which  empties  into 
Lake  Superior,  about  twenty  miles  west  of  Copper 


158  Old  Mackinaw. 

Harbor.  The  Methodists  have  missions  also  at  On- 
tonagon  and  Carp  Kiver,  all  of  which  are  more  or 
less  prosperous. 

At  present  this  church  has  maintained  mis 
sions  and  schools  among  small  bands  of  Indians 
collected  on  reserves  in  Isabella  and  Oceana 
counties  in  the  lower  peninsula  of  Michigan.  The 
Indians  at  the  old  mission  in  the  vicinity  of  Saut 
St.  Mary,  are  assembling  at  Iroquois  Point  at  the 
lower  end  of  Lake  Superior,  and  are  supplied  with 
a  missionary.  A  mission  was  also  established  in 
the  Bay  Shore  Keservation,  among  the  Saginaw  In 
dians,  which  still  exists. 

It  is  a  matter  of  melancholy  reflection,  that  the 
immense  tribes,  each  of  which  could  muster  thou 
sands  of  warriors  in  this  vast  region,  have  dwindled 
down  to  small  and  feeble  bands.  The  same  re 
mark  will  apply  to  all  the  tribes  in  North  America- 
The  race  is  rapidly  passing  away,  and  the  nation, 
like  that  of  Edom,  will  at  no  distant  clay  become 
entirely  extinct.  The  last  report  of  the  Secretary  of 
the  Interior,  states,  that  the  whole  number  of  Indians 
within  the  limits  of  the  States  and  Territories  of  the 
Union,  does  not  now  exceed  three  hundred  and 
twenty-five  thousand. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Indian  name  of  Michigan — Islands — Lanmaii's  Summer  in  the 
wilderness —  Plains — Trees— Rivers — A  traditionary  land — 
Beautiful  description — Official  report  in  relation  to  the  trade 
of  the  lakes  —  Green  Bay  —  Grand  Traverse  Bay — Beaver 
Islands — L'Arbre  Croche — Boundaries  of  Lake  Michigan  — 
Its  connections — Railroad  from  Fort  Wayne  to  Mackinaw — 
Recent  report  of — Amount  completed — Land  grants. 

THE  Indian  name  of  the  State  of  Michigan,  is 
Michi-sawg-ye-gan.  the  meaning  of  which  in  the 
Algonquin  tongue  is  the  Lake  country.  Surrounded 
as  it  is  almost  entirely  by  water,  it  possesses  all  the 
advantages  of  an  island.  It  has  numerous  streams 
which  are  clear  and  beautiful,  abounding  in  fish. 
The  surface  of  the  western  half  (we  allude  now  to 
the  lower  or  southern  peninsula)  is  destitute  of  rocks, 
and  undulating.  In  the  language  of  Lanman  in  his 
"  Summer  in  the  "Wilderness,"  "  It  is  here  that  the 
loveliest  of  lakes  and  streams  and  prairies  are  to  be 
found.  No  one  who  has  never  witnessed  them 

(159) 


160  Old  Mackinaw. 

can  form  any  idea  of  the  exquisite  beauty  of  the 
thousand  lakes  which  gem  the  western  part  of  Michi 
gan.  They  are  the  brightest  and  purest  mirrors  the 
virgin  sky  has  ever  used  to  adorn  herself.  On  the 
banks  of  these  lakes,  grow  in  rich  profusion,  the 
rose,  the  violet,  the  lily  and  the  sweet  brier. 

"  A  great  proportion  of  Michigan  is  covered  with 
white-oak  openings.  Standing  on  a  gentle  hill,  the 
eye  wanders  away  for  miles  over  an  undulating  sur 
face,  obstructed  only  by  the  trunks  of  lofty  trees, — 
above  you  a  green  canopy,  and  beneath,  a  carpet 
of  velvet  grass,  sprinkled  with  flowers  of  every  hue 
and  form. 

"  The  prairies  are  another  interesting  feature  of 
Michigan  scenery.  They  meet  the  traveler  at  every 
point,  and  of  many  sizes,  seeming  often  like  so  many 
lakes,  being  often  studded  with  wooded  islands,  and 
surrounded  by  shores  of  forests.  This  soil  is  a  deep 
black  sand.  Grass  is  their  natural  production,  al 
though  corn,  oats  and  potatoes  flourish  upon  them. 
Never  can  I  forget  the  first  time  I  entered  White 
Pigeon  Prairie.  Sleeping  beneath  the  shadows  of 
sunset,  as  it  was,  the  effect  upon  me  was  like  that 
which  is  felt  on  first  beholding  the  ocean, — over 
powering  awe.  All  that  the  poet  has  said  about  these 
gardens  of  the  desert  is  true. 


Old  Mackinaw.  161 

"Burr  Oak  Plains.  The  only  difference  be 
tween  these  and  the  oak  openings,  is  the  character  of 
the  trees  and  the  evenness  of  their  surface.  The  soil 
is  a  mixture  of  sand  and  black  loam.  They  have 
the  appearance  of  cultivated  orchards,  or  English 
parks ;  and  on  places  where  the  foot  of  the  white 
man  has  never  trod,  a  carriage  and  four  could  easily 
pass  through.  They  produce  both  wheat  and 
corn. 

"  The  wet  prairies  have  the  appearance  of  sub 
merged  land.  In  them  the  grass  is  often  six  or  seven 
feet  high.  They  are  the  resort  of  water-fowl,  musk- 
rats,  and  otters. 

"But  the  best  and  most  fertile  soil  in  Michigan  is 
that  designated  by  the  title  of  timbered  land.  It  costs 
more  to  prepare  it  for  the  plough,  but  when  once 
the  soil  is  sown  it  yields  a  thousand-fold.  And 
with  regard  to  their  beauty  and  magnificence,  the 
innumerable  forests  of  this  State  are  not  surpassed 
by  any  in  the  world,  whether  we  consider  the  va 
riety  or  grandeur  of  their  production.  This  timber 
is  needed  for  prairie  States,  Lake  cities,  and  exports. 

"  A  friend  of  mine,  now  residing  in  western  Michi 
gan,  and  who  once  spent  several  years  in  Europe, 
thus  writes  respecting  this  region : 

"  '  Oh,  such  trees  as  we  have  here !  Magnificent, 
14* 


162  Old  Mackinaw. 

tall,  large-leafed,  umbrageous.  Vallombrosa,  the 
far-famed  Yallombrosa  of  Tuscany,  is  nothing  to 
the  thousand  Yallombrosas  here !  A  fig  for  your 
Italian  scenery  !  This  is  the  country  where  nature 
reigns  in  her  virgin  beauty ;  where  trees  grow,  where 
corn  grows ;  where  men  grow  better  than  they  do 
anywhere  else  in  the  world.  This  is  the  land  to 
study  nature  in  all  her  luxuriant  charms,  under 
glorious  green  branches,  among  singing  birds  and 
laughing  streams  ;  this  is  the  land  to  hear  the  cooing 
of  the  turtle-dove,  in  far,  deep,  cool,  sylvan  bowers; 
to  feel  your  soul  expand  under  the  mighty  influences 
of  nature  in  her  primitive  beauty  and  strength.' 

"  The  principal  inland  rivers  of  Michigan,  are  the 
Grand  Eiver,  the  Kalamazoo,  the  St.  Joseph,  the 
Saginaw,  and  the  Raisin.  The  first  three  empty  into 
Lake  Michigan,  and  are  about  seventy  miles  apart. 
Their  average  length  is  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles,  and  they  are  about  thirty  or  forty  rods  in 
width.  At  present,  they  are  navigable  about  half 
their  length  for  small  steamboats  and  bateaux. 
Their  bed  is  of  limestone,  covered  with  pebbles.  I 
was  a  passenger  on  board  the  Matilda  Barney,  on 
her  first  trip, — the  first  steamer  that  ever  ascended 
the  St.  Joseph,  which  I  consider  the  most  perfectly 
beautiful  stream  that  I  ever  have  seen.  I  remember 


Old  Mackinaw.  163 

well  the  many  flocks  of  wild  turkeys  and  herds  of 
deer  that  the  '  iron  horse'  frightened  in  his  winding 
career.  The  Indian  canoe  is  now  giving  way  to  the 
more  costly  but  less  beautiful  row-boat,  and  those 
rivers  are  becoming  deeper  and  deeper  every  day. 
Instead  of  the  howl  of  the  wolf,  the  songs  of  husband 
men  now  echo  through  their  vales,  where  may  be 
found  many  comfortable  dwellings. 

"The  Saginaw  runs  toward  the  north  and  empties 
into  Lake  Huron, — that  same  Huron  which  has  been 
celebrated  in  song  by  the  young  poet,  Louis  L.  Noble. 
This  river  is  navigable  for  sixty  miles.  The  river 
Raisin  is  a  winding  stream,  emptying  into  Lake 
Erie,  called  so  from  the  quantity  of  grapes  that 
cluster  on  its  banks.  Its  Indian  name  is  Numma- 
sepee,  signifying  River  of  Sturgeons.  Sweet  river ! 
whose  murmurs  have  so  often  been  my  lullaby, 
mayst  thou  continue  in  thy  beauty  forever.  Are 
there  not  streams  like  thee  flowing  through  the  para 
dise  of  God  ? 

"  Notwithstanding  the  comparative  newness  of 
Michigan,  its  general  aspect  is  ancient.  The  ruin  of 
many  an  old  fort  may  be  discovered  on  its  borders, 
reminding  the  beholder  of  wrong  and  outrage,  blood 
and  strife.  This  was  once  the  home  of  noble  but 
oppressed  nations.  Here  lived  and  loved  the  Al- 


164  Old  Mackinaw. 

gonquin  and  Shawnese  Indians ;  the  names  of  whose 
warrior  chiefs — Pontiac  the  proud,  and  Tecumseh 
the  brave — will  long  be  treasured  in  history.  I 
have  stood  upon  their  graves,  which  are  marked  only 
by  a  blighted  tree  and  an  unhewn  stone,  and  have 
sighed  deeply  as  I  remembered  their  deeds.  But 
they  have  gone — gone  like  the  lightning  of  a  summer 
day ! 

"  It  is  traditionary  land.  For  we  are  told  that  the 
Indian  hunters  of  old  saw  fairies  and  genii  floating 
over  its  lakes  and  streams,  and  dancing  through  its 
lonely  forests.  In  these  did  they  believe,  and  to 
please  them  was  their  religion. 

"The  historian,  James  H.  Lanning,  Esq.,  of  this 
State,  thus  writes,  in  alluding  to  the  olden  times : 
4  The  streams  rolled  their  liquid  silver  to  the  lake, 
broken  only  by  the  fish  that  flashed  in  their  current, 
or  the  swan  that  floated  upon  their  surface.  Vege 
tation  flourished  alone.  Hoses  bloomed  and  died, 
only  to  be  trampled  by  the  deer  or  savage ;  and 
strawberries  studded  the  ground  like  rubies,  where 
the  green  and  sunny  hillsides  reposed  amid  the 
silence,  like  sleeping  infants  in  the  lap  of  the  forest. 
The  rattlesnake  glided  undisturbed  through  its  prai 
ries  ;  and  the  fog  which  hung  in  clouds  over  its  stag 
nant  marshes  spread  no  pestilence.  The  panther, 


Old  Mackinaw.  165 

the  fox,  the  deer,  the  wolf,  and  bear,  roamed  fearless 
through  the  more  remote  parts  of  the  domain,  for 
there  were  none  to  dispute  with  them  their  inherit 
ance.  But  clouds  thickened.  In  the  darkness  of  mid 
night,  and  silence  of  the  wilderness,  the  tomahawk  and 
scalping  knife  were  forged  for  their  work  of  death. 
Speeches  were  made  by  the  savages  under  the  voice 
less  stars,  which  were  heard  by  none  save  God  and 
their  allies  ;  and  the  war-song  echoed  from  the  banks 
of  lakes  where  had  never  been  heard  the  footsteps 
of  civilized  man.' 

"  Then  followed  the  horrors  of  war ;  then  and  there 
were  enacted  the  triumphs  of  revenge.  But  those 
sounds  have  died  away ;  traced  only  on  the  page  of 
history,  those  deeds.  The  voice  of  rural  labor,  the 
clink  of  the  hammer,  and  the  sound  of  Sabbath-bells 
now  echo  in  those  forests  and  vales.  The  plough  is 
making  deep  furrows  in  its  soil,  and  the  sound  of 
the  anvil  is  in  every  part.  A  well-endowed  Univer 
sity,  and  seminaries  of  learning  are  there.  Railroads 
and  canals,  like  veins  of  health,  are  gliding  to  its 
noble  heart.  The  red  man,  in  his  original  grandeur 
and  state  of  nature,  has  passed  away  from  its  more 
fertile  borders  ;  and  his  bitterest  enemy,  the  pale 
face  is  master  of  his  possessions." 

From  a   report   made,  by  order  of  Congress,  by 


166  Old  Mackinaw. 

Israel  D.  Andrews,  in  1853,  in  relation  to  the  trade 
of  the  great  lakes  and  rivers,  we  extract  the  follow 
ing  : — "  Michigan  is  the  second  of  the  great  lakes  in 
size,  being  inferior  only  to  Lake  Superior,  and  in 
regard  to  situation  and  the  quality  of  the  surround 
ing  soil  and  the  climate  is,  in  many  respects,  prefer 
able  to  them  all.  Its  southern  extremity,  rising 
south  in  fertile  regions,  nearly  two  degrees  to  the 
south  of  Albany,  and  the  whole  of  its  great  southern 
peninsula  being  imbosomed  in  fresh  waters,  its  cli 
mate  is  mild  and  equable,  as  its  soil  is  rich  and  pro 
ductive.  The  lake  is  three  hundred  miles  long  by 
sixty  in  breadth,  and  contains  sixteen  thousand  nine 
hundred  and  eighty-one  square  miles,  having  a  mean 
depth  of  nine  hundred  feet.  On  the  western  shore 
it  has  the  great  indentation  of  Green  Bay  ;  itself  equal 
to  the  largest  lakes  in  England,  being  one  hundred 
miles  long  and  thirty  broad.  It  is  well  sheltered 
at  its  mouth  by  the  Traverse  Islands,  and  has  for  its 
affluent  the  outlet  of  Winnebago  and  the  Fox.  River. 
"  Grand  Traverse  Bay  is  a  considerable  inlet  of  Lake 
Michigan,  which  sets  up  into  the  lower  peninsula, 
one  hundred  miles  south  from  the  Island  of  Macki- 
nac.  It  is  a  good  farming  and  lumbering  country. 
There  are  two  mission  stations  and  six  or  seven 
steam  and  water  mills  located  at  this  point.  It  is 


Old  Mackinaw.  167 

now  an  organized  county  called  Grand  Traverse. 
The  county  seat  is  at  Grand  Traverse  City,  West 
Bay,  where  they  have  a  court-house  and  jail. 

"  L'Arbre  Croche  Village  is  an  old  Indian  town, 
situated  about  twenty-five  miles  southwest  from 
Mackinaw,  on  the  lower  peninsula.  It  is  composed 
mostly  of  Indians.  It  has  a  Catholic  Church  and  a 
Home  Mission  Station,  with  a  teacher  and  other 
assistants  to  instruct  the  Indians  in  the  English  lan 
guage.  It  has  extensive  clearings  for  miles,  along 
the  banks  of  the  lake  shore,  and  extending  from  one 
to  six  miles  back  into  the  interior,  indicating  that 
once  a  large  population  must  have  inhabited  this 
section  of  the  country. 

"  The  principal  tributaries  of  Lake  Michigan  are  the 
Manistee,  Great  Kalamazoo,  and  St.  Joseph's  rivers, 
from  the  southern  peninsula  of  Michigan,  the  Des- 
Plaines,  the  O  Plaines  and  Chee  rivers,  from  Indiana, 
Illinois,  and  from  the  northern  peninsula,  the  Meno- 
minee,  Escambia,  Noquet,  White  Fish  and  Manistee 
rivers.  The  lake  is  bounded  to  the  eastward  by  the 
rich  and  fertile  land  of  the  southern  peninsula,  send 
ing  out  vast  quantities  of  all  the  cereal  grains,  equal 
if  not  superior  in  quality  to  any  raised  in  the  United 
States.  It  is  bounded  on  the  south  and  southwest  by 
Indiana  and  Illinois,  which  supply  corn  and  beef  of 


168  Old  Mackinaw. 

the  finest  quality,  in  superabundance,  for  exporta 
tion.  On  the  west  it  is  bounded  by  the  productive 
grain  and  grazing  lands  and  lumber  district  of  Wis 
consin,  and  on  the  northwest  and  north  by  the  invalu 
able  and  not  yet  half-explored  mineral  district  of 
northern  Michigan. 

"  The  natural  outlet  of  its  commerce,  as  of  its  wa 
ters,  is  by  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw  into  Lake  Huron, 
thence  by  the  St.  Clair  Eiver  down  to  the  lower 
marts.  Of  internal  communications  it  already  pos 
sesses  many,  both  by  canal  and  railroad,  equal  to 
those  almost  of  any  of  the  older  States,  in  length 
and  availability,  and  inferior  to  none  in  importance. 
First,  it  has  the  Green  Bay,  Lake  Winnebago,  and 
Fox  River  improvement  connecting  it  with  the  Wis 
consin  Eiver,  by  which  it  has  access  to  the  Missis 
sippi  River,  and  thereby  enjoys  the  commerce  of  its 
upper  valleys,  and  its  rich  lower  lands  and  prosper 
ous  States ; — and  second,  the  Illinois  and  Michigan 
canal,  rendering  the  great  commercial  valley  of  the 
Illinois  tributary  to  its  commerce.  By  railways, 
perfected  and  projected,  it  has,  or  will  soon  have, 
connection  with  the  Mississippi  in  its  upper  tributa 
ries  and  lead  regions  by  way  of  the  Milwaukee  and 
Mississippi,  and  Chicago  and  Galena  lines.  To  the 
eastward,  by  the  Michigan  Central  and  Southern 


Old  Mackinaw.  169 

Railroad,  it  communicates  with  the  lake  shore  road, 
and  thence  with  all  the  eastern  lines  from  Buffalo  to 
Boston.  To  the  southward  it  will  speedily  be  united 
by  the  great  system  of  projected  railroads. 

"  A  road  is  now  in  progress  extending  from  Fort 
Wayne,  Indiana,  to  Mackinaw.  From  a  recent  re 
port  made  of  this  road,  which  will  prove  of  vast 
importance  in  developing  the  immense  resources  of 
Michigan,  we  extract  the  following  :— 

"  The  distance  from  point  to  point,  as  measured  by 
the  engineers,  are  as  follow : 

"From  Fort  Wayne  to  the  'Air-line  Railroad,  In 
diana,  28  miles;  the  Air-line  railroad,  to  Wolcottville, 
6  ;  Wolcottville  to  Lagrange,  10  ;  Lagrange  to  Lima, 
5 ;  Lima  to  Sturgis,  Mich.,  5J ;  Sturgis  to  Mendon, 
14 ;  Mendon  to  Brady,  8  ;  Brady  to  Kalamazoo,  12  ; 
Kalamazoo  to  Grand  Rapids,  47  ;  Grand  Rapids  to 
Laphamville,  13 ;  Laphamville  to  Little  Traverse  Bay, 
169 ;  Little  Traverse  to  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw,  27. 
Total ;  344. 

"  The  work  of  construction  now  performed,  is 
mostly  between  Wolcottville  and  Kalamazoo.  Be 
tween  Lagrange  and  Sturgis  the  earth-work  and 
bridges  are  nearly  done — $1,500  will  complete  it  for 
the  ties.  About  one-fourth  of  the  earth-work,  bridges 
and  ties,  of  the  remainder  of  the  line  from  Wolcott- 
15 


I  jo  Old  Mackinaw. 

ville  to  Kalamazoo,  is  done.  Between  Kalamazoo  and 
Grand  Rapids,  work  to  the  amount  of  $8,000  has 
been  done. 

"  The  construction  of  the  road  bed,  bridging,  ties, 
ballasting,  &c.,  from  Kalamazoo  to  the  north  bank 
of  the  Muskegon  River,  one  hundred  and  three  miles, 
is  let  to  Daniel  Beckel,  Esq.,  of  Dayton,  Ohio.  Near 
two  hundred  hands  are  engaged  on  the  work — on 
the  twenty  miles  north  of  Grand  Rapids.  It  is  the 
intention  of  the  company,  as  we  are  informed,  to 
complete  this  twenty  miles  early  the  coming  sum 
mer. 

"  We  are  informed  by  the  annual  report,  that  on 
July  21st,  $216,316  18  had  been  collected  and  ex 
pended. 

"  The  land  grant  made  by  Congress  is  of  great 
value.  The  portion  of  the  road  to  which  it  attaches, 
extends  from  Grand  Rapids  to  Little  Traverse  Bay ; 
the  precise  length  of  which  is,  as  adopted  by  the 
proper  departments  at  Washington,  one  hundred 
and  eighty-two  miles  and  three  thousand  and  sixty- 
seven  feet.  Under  the  rules  of  adjustment  adopted 
by  the  department,  the  quantity  of  lands  granted 
will  be  somewhere  from  600,000  to  674,164  acres. 

"  These  lands  are  generally  timbered  farm  lands— 
of  the  best  quality,  in  timber,  soil  and  water.  Some 


Old  Mackinaw.  171 

are  pine  lands,  some  pine  and  hard  wood  mixed ;  and 
a  small  portion  are  cedar  swamp  lands.  But  there 
is  none  too  much  of  either  description  for  the  value 
of  the  lands  and  the  prosperity  of  the  country. 
Nature  has  distributed  and  interspersed  them  in  such 
proportions  as  will  best  contribute  to  the  support 
of  a  populous  and  well  improved  agricultural 
country.  The  great  bulk  of  these  lands  are  what  are 
generally  denominated  '  beech  and  sugar-tree  lands.' 
The  soil  is  generally  rich  sandy  loam.  The  estimated 
value  of  the  lands,  when  the  road  is  completed,  has 
been  put,  by  different  parties,  from  $4  to  $10  per 
acre. 

"  The  lands  granted  are  the  odd  numbered  sections 
within  six  miles  of  the  line ;  and  if  any  such  sections 
are  sold  or  pre-empted,  then  the  company  has  the  right 
to  select  other  sections  outside  of  the  six  miles  and 
within  fifteen  miles  of  the  road,  to  make  up  such 
deficit. 

"  The  odd  numbered  sections,  outside  of  the  six- 
mile  limits,  and  within  the  fifteen-mile  limits,  are 
set  apart  to  this  company,  out  of  which  to  select 
lands  to  make  up  any  deficit  that  may  occur  in  the 
six  miles. 

"  By  those  best  acquainted  with  the  value  of  these 
lands — and  who  are  familiar  with  that  portion  of  the 


172  Old  Mackinaw. 

State — they  are  estimated  at  $10  per  acre,  on  the 
completion  of  the  road.  This  will  give  the  company 
the  sum  of  $6,600,000.  And  if  the  road  when  fully 
equipped  costs  $30,000  per  mile,  then  the  gross  cost 
will  be  $10,500,000  ;  which  by  the  proceeds  of  the 
land  grant  will  be  reduced  to  the  sum  of  $3,900,000, 
and  will  reduce  the  actual  cost  of  the  road  to  $11, 
142,85  per  mile.  Anything  like  fair  success  in  the 
construction  of  the  road  will  enable  the  company  to 
do  it,  after  applying  the  proceeds  of  the  land  grant,  for 
about  eleven  thousand  dollars  per  mile.  Such  a  result 
will  not  only  give  to  the  country  all  the  advantages 
of  this  much-needed  work ;  but  when  done  the  capi 
tal  stock  must  prove  to  be  a  good  paying  invest 
ment." 


CHAPTEK  X. 

Mackinaw,  the  site  for  a  great  central  city — The  Venice  of 
the  lakes — Early  importance  as  a  central  position — Nicolet 
— Compared  geographically  with  other  points  —  Immense 
chain  of  coast  —  Future  prospects  —  Temperature  —  Testi 
mony  of  the  Jesuit  fathers — Healthfulness  of  the  climate 
— Dr.  Drake  on  Mackinaw  —  Resort  for  invalids — Water 
currents  of  commerce — Surface  drained  by  them — Soil  of 
the  northern  and  southern  peninsulas  of  Michigan — Physi 
cal  resources — Present  proprietors  of  Mackinaw — Plan  of  the 
city — Streets — Avenues — Park — Lots  and  blocks  for  churches 
and  public  purposes — Institutions  of  learning  and  objects 
of  benevolence — Fortifications — Docks  and  ferries — Mate 
rials  for  building — Harbors — Natural  beauty  of  the  site  for 
a  city — Mountain  ranges — Interior  lakes — Fish — Game. 

FERKIS,  in  his  "  States  and  Territories  of  the  Great 
West,"  says  :  "If  one  were  to  point  out,  on  the  map 
of  North  America,  a  site  for  a  great  central  city  in 
the  lake  region,  it  would  be  in  the  immediate  vicini 
ty  of  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw.  A  city  so  located 
would  have  the  command  of  the  mineral  trade,  the 
fisheries,  the  furs,  and  the  lumber,  of  the  entire 
15*  (173) 


174  Old  Mackinaw. 

North.  It  might  become  the  metropolis  of  a  great 
commercial  empire.  It  would  be  the  Venice  of  the 
Lakes."  Mackinaw,  both  straits  and  peninsula, 
was  so  naturally  the  key  point  of  the  great  system 
of  northern  lakes  and  their  connection  with  the  Mis 
sissippi,  that  while  the  New  England  colonies  were 
yet  but  infant  and  feeble  settlements,  the  Indians 
of  the  northwest,  the  Jesuit  missionaries,  the  French 
voyagers,  all  made  Mackinaw  the  point  from  whence 
they  diverged — in  all  directions.  When  Philadel 
phia  and  Baltimore  had  not  begun,  and  when  the 
sites  of  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  and  St.  Louis  were 
unknown  places  in  the  wilderness,  Nicolet  took  his 
departure  from  Quebec  in  search  of  the  mysterious 
river  of  the  west.  In  passing  to  meet  the  Indians 
at  Green  Bay,  he  was  the  first  to  notice  the  Straits 
of  Mackinaw.  About  thirty  years  after,  James  Mar- 
quette  established,  on  the  northern  shore  of  the 
straits,  the  Mission  of  St.  Ignace.  Here,  amidst 
the  wilds  and  solitudes  of  the  North  American  for 
ests,  and  on  the  shores  of  its  great  inland  seas, 
Marquette  and  Joliet  planned  their  expedition  as  we 
have  already  described,  and  it  was  Mackinaw  and 
not  New  Orleans  or  New  York  that  the  lines  ra 
diated  from  to  the  earliest  settlements  of  the  west. 
Mackinaw  presents  one  of  the  most  remarkable 


Old  Mackinaw.  175 

geographical  positions  on  the  earth.  Constantinople 
on  the  Bosphorus,  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  Singa 
pore  on  the  Strait  of  Malacca,  and  the  Isthmus  of  V 

sy^  Panama,  are  the  only  ones  which  seem  to  present  a 
parallel.  The  two  former  have  been  for  ages  re 
nowned  as  the  most  important  in  the  commercial 
world.  Singapore  has  rapidly  become  the  key  and 
centre  of  Asiatic  navigation,  at  which  may  be  found 
the  shipping  and  people  of  all  commercial  nations, 

^L  and  Panama  is  now  the  subject  of  negotiation  among 
the  most  powerful  nations  with  a  view  to  the  ex 
ceeding  importance  of  its  commercial  position. 
Geographically,  Mackinaw  is  not  inferior  to  either. 
From  the  northwest  to  the  southeast,  midland  of  the 
North  American  continent,  there  stretches  a  vast 
chain  of  lakes  and  river  dividing  the  continent  nearly 
midway.  This  chain  of  Lakes  and  rivers  is  in  the 
whole  nearly  three  thousand  miles  long.  At  the 
Straits  of  Mackinaw  the  whole  system  of  land  and 
water  centres.  The  three  greatest  lakes  of  this  sys 
tem,  Superior,  Huron,  and  Michigan,  are  spread 
around,  pointing  to  the  straits,  while  between  them 
three  vast  peninsulas  of  land  press  down  upon  the 
waters  until  they  are  compressed  into  a  river  of 
four  miles  in  width.  On  the  north  is  the  peninsula 
of  Canada,  on  the  south  that  of  Michigan,  and  on  the 


176  Old    Mackinaw. 

west  that  of  the  copper  region,  all  of  which  are 
divided  only  by  the  narrow  Straits  of  Mackinaw. 
Here  are  three  inland  seas  of  near  eighty  thousand 
square  miles  and  about  five  thousand  miles  of  coast. 
From  coast  to  coast  and  isle  to  isle  of  this  immense 
expanse  of  waters,  navigation  must  be  kept  up,  in 
creasing  with  the  ever-increasing  population  on 
their  shores  till  tens  of  millions  are  congregated 
around.  Of  all  this  vast  navigation  and  increasing 
commerce,  Mackinaw  is  the  natural  centre  around 
which  it  exists,  and  toward  which  it  must  tend  by 
an  inevitable  law  of  necessity.  Superior,  Huron, 
and  Michigan  have  no  water  outlet  to  each  other 
but  that  which  flows  through  the  Straits  of  Macki 
naw,  and  its  geographical  position  is  unrivaled  in 
America.  Whoever  lives  twenty  years  from  this 
time  will  find  Mackinaw  a  populous  and  wealthy 
city,  the  Queen  of  the  Lakes. 

If  any  serious  objection  be  made  to  the  site  of  a 
city  at  this  place,  it  can  only  be  that  the  climate  is 
supposed  to  be  cold.  But,  what  is  climate?  Climate 
is  relative  and  composed  of  many  elements.  The 
first  is  temperature,  as  determined  by  latitude.  The 
Straits  of  Mackinaw  are  in  the  latitude  of  45° 
46'.  North  of  this  lies  a  part  of  Canada,  containing 
at  least  a  million  of  inhabitants.  North  of  this  lati- 


Old  Mackinaw.  177 

tude  lies  the  city  of  Quebec  in  America;  London, 
Paris,  Amsterdam,  Berlin,  Vienna,  Wa'rsaw,  Copen 
hagen,  Moscow,  and  St.  Petersburg,  in  Europe ; 
Odessa  and  Astracan,  in  Asia.  North  of  it,  are  in 
Prussia,  Poland,  and  Russia,  dense  populations,  and 
a  great  agricultural  production.  The  latitude  of 
Mackinaw,  therefore,  is  in  the  midst  of  that  temperate 
zone,  where  commerce,  population,  cities,  and  the 
arts  have  most  flourished.  The  climate,  however, 
is  actually  milder  than  the  latitude  represents.  The 
isothermal  line,  which  passes  through  Mackinaw, 
also  passes  in  Wisconsin,  nearly  as  low  as  43°,  and 
in  the  east  also  deflects  south.  This  is  the  true  line 
of  vegetation ;  and  thus  it  appears  that  the  actual 
climate  of  Mackinaw  is  about  that  of  43°  30'.  The 
same  isothermal  line,  passes  through  Prussia  and 
Poland,  the  finest  grain  countries  of  Europe.  The 
climate  of  the  straits  is,  therefore,  as  favorable  as 
that  of  most  civilized  States,  either  for  the  produc 
tion  of  food  or  the  pursuits  of  commerce. 

The  Marquette  Journal  gives  some  items  relative 
to  the  winter  of  that  locality.  The  mercury  was  not 
below  zero  until  the  evening  of  January  8th,  and 
then  only  2°  below.  The  highest  point  reached  in 
January,  was  20°  above,  and  lowest  16°  below  zero. 
In  February,  the  highest  point  was  55°  above,  the 


178  Old  Mackinaw. 

lowest  20°  below  zero.  The  average  temperature 
for  the  three  winter  months  had  been  about  15° 
above  zero.  In  the  "  Relations  of  the  Jesuits,"  3d.  vol 
ume,  1671,  it  is  stated  that  that  the  "winter in  Macki 
naw  is  short,  not  commencing  until  after  Christinas 
and  closing  the  middle  of  March,  at  which  time 
spring  begins." 

The  Lake  Superior  Journal  for  February  23,  1859, 
says  :— 

"  We  are  now  within  five  days  of  the  first  spring 
month,  and  have  scarcely  had  a  brush  of  winter  yet. 
But  very  few  days  has  the  thermometer  been  below 
zero,  and  but  a  single  day  as  low  as  ten  degrees  be 
low.  Most  of  the  time  it  has  been  mild.  For  two 
weeks  past,  there  has  been  a  blandness  and  mellow 
ness  in  the  atmosphere,  which  was  enough  to  cause 
the  moodiest  heart  to  sing  for  joy.  There  was  a 
flare-up,  however,  for  a  single  day  (the  20th),  when 
the  storm  descended,  the  wind  blew,  and  there  was 
great  commotion  in  the  elements,  but  the  next  day 
all  was  calm  and  delightful  as  before.  We  have 
quite  a  depth  of  snow  on  the  ground,  have  had  fine 
sleighing  since  the  10th  of  November.  But  our  bay 
has  not  been  closed  more  than  a  week  at  a  time  this 
winter,  and  but  a  few  days  in  all.  It  is  open  now, 


Old  Mackinaw.  179 

and  'the  stern  monarch  of  the  year,'  seems  to  be 
melting  away  into  spring. 

"  In  regard  to  the  healthfulness  of  Mackinaw,  it 
may  be  remarked  that  the  northern  regions  of  the 
earth  are  everywhere  the  most  healthy.  Yet  there 
are  differences  in  situation  and  exposure  which  make 
differences  in  health.  Mackinaw  has  now  been  known 
and  settled  for  two  hundred  years,  a  period  long 
enough  to  have  both  tested  its  healthiness,  and  created 
a  permanent  reputation.  The  Jesuit  Missionaries, 
the  frontier  traders,  and  the  French  voyageurs,  have 
lived  and  died  there ;  yet  we  have  never  heard  of  any 
prevalent  disease,  or  local  miasm.  It  seems  to  have 
been  the  favorite  resort  of  all  the  frontiers  men,  who 
inhabited  or  hunted  in  the  region  of  the  Northern 
Lakes.  In  recent  years,  it  has  been  visited  by  men 
of  science,  and  accomplished  physicians,  and  their 
report  has  been  uniformly  in  favor  of  its  superior 
healthiness.  Dr.  Drake,  who  visited  Mackinaw  in 
1842,  for  the  express  purpose  of  examining  the  cli 
mate  and  topography,  says,  "From  this  description, 
it  appears,  that  the  conditions  which  are  held  to  be 
necessary  to  the  generation  of  autumnal  fever,  are 
at  their  minimum  in  this  place  ;  and  when  we  consider 
this  fact,  with  its  latitude  nearly  46°,  and  its  altitude 
above  the  sea,  from  six  to  eight  hundred  feet,  we  are 


180  Old  Mackinaw. 

prepared  to  find  it  almost  exempt  from  that  disease ; 
and  such  from  the  testimony  of  its  inhabitants  is  the 
fact,  especially  in  reference  to  the  intermittent  fevers, 
which,  I  was  assured  by  many  respectable  persons, 
never  originated  among  the  people,  and  would  cease 
spontaneously  in  those  who  returned,  or  came  with 
it  from  other  places.' 

"Speaking  of  this  region  as  a  place  of  resort  for 
invalids,  the  same  writer  says  : 

" '  The  three  great  reservoirs  of  clear  and  cold 
water,  Lakes  Huron,  Michigan,  and  Superior,  with  the 
Island  of  Mackinac  in  their  hydrographical  centre, 
offer  a  delightful  hot-weather  asylum  to  all  invalids 
who  need  an  escape  from  the  crowded  cities,  paludal 
exhalations,  sultry  climates  and  officious  medication. 
Lake  Erie  lies  too  far  south,  and  is  bordered  by  too 
many  swamps  to  be  included  in  the  salutiferous 
group.' 

"  '  On  reaching  Mackinaw,  an  agreeable  change  of 
climate  is  at  once  experienced.'  '  To  his  jaded 
sensibilities  all  around  him  is  fresh  and  invigorating." 
Dr.  Drake  looked  upon  Mackinaw  as  one  of  the 
healthiest  portions  of  the  whole  Northwest,  and  to 
which,  in  time,  tens  of  thousands  of  persons,  even 
from  the  furthest  south,  would  resort  to  be  reinvi- 
gorated  in  body,  refreshed  in  mind,  and  delighted 
with  the  contemplation  of  the  sublime  and  beautiful 


Old  Mackinaw.  181 

scenery  in  that  region  of  expansive  waters,  of  rocky 
coasts,  of  forest-bearing-  lands,  and  distant  islands. 

'  O 

"  Here  the  great  currents,  which  are  the  natural  lines 
of  movement  for  the  people,  commerce,  and  produc 
tions  of  half  North  America,  concentrate  around  a 
single  point.  JSTo  other  place  has  the  same  advan 
tage  of  radial  lines.  Quebec  is  relatively  on  the  At 
lantic.  The  upper  end  of  Lake  Superior  is  compara 
tively  on  an  inhospitable  land.  Chicago  is  at  a 
lateral  point  on  the  south  end  of  Lake  Michigan, — 
three  hundred  miles  from  the  main  channel  of  com 
merce.  At  Mackinaw  concentrate  all  the  radial 
lines  of  water  navigation  in  the  upper  lakes.  Which 
will  be  seen,  if  we  take  the  following  distances  of 
direct  navigation  from  this  point  to  the  principal 
points  on  the  upper  lakes : 

"  From  Mackinaw  to  Fon  du  Lac  (west  end  of  Lake 
Superior),  550  miles ;  to  Chicago,  350  ;  to  east  end 
of  Georgian  Bay,  300  ;  to  Detroit,  300  ;  to  Buffalo, 
700;  to  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  1,600. 

"  Here  are  two  important  points  to  be  observed. 
Any  city  which,  by  competition,  or  the  rivalry  of 
production,  or  the  power  of  wealth,  can  be  supposed 
to  interfere  with  the  growth  of  Mackinaw,  must  arise 
on  Lakes  Michigan  or  Superior;  for  there  only  can 
be  any  commercial  mart  to  receive  and  distribute 
16 


182  Old  Mackinaw. 

the  products  around  those  immense  bodies  of  water. 
But  in  consequence  of  the  form  and  surface  of  those 
lakes,  no  lines  of  transit  to  the  waters  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  can  be  made  so  short  or  cheap  as  the 
water  transit  through  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw.  The 
concentration  of  products  will,  therefore,  be  ultima 
tely  made  at  Mackinaw,  for  all  that  immense  dis 
trict  of  country  which  lies  around  the  upper  lakes. 
Again,  it  will  be  seen  that  as  the  water  transporta 
tion  to  that  point  is  the  best,  so  the  radial  line  from 
that  point  to  the  Atlantic  by  water,  is  much  the 
shortest.  A  steam  propeller,  leaving  any  one  of  the 
principal  points  on  the  upper  lakes  for  either  Buffalo 
or  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  must,  as  compared  with 
Mackinaw,  pass  over  the  following  lines  of  transit, 
viz.,  From  Fon  du  Lac  (west  end  of  Lake  Superior)  to 
Buffalo,  1,250  miles;  Chicago,  111.,  1,000;  Mackinaw, 
Michigan,  700 ;  Fon  du  Lac  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law 
rence,  2,150;  Chicago  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
1,900  ;  Mackinaw  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  1,600. 
"  It  must  be  granted,  at  once,  that  for  any  water 
communication  with  the  ports  of  the  Atlantic,  Mack- 
naw  has  greatly  the  advantage  over  any  commercial 
point  in  Minnesota,  Wisconsin,  Northern  Illinois, 
Northern  Michigan,  or  Northwest  Canada.  How 
great  this  advantage  is,  we  shall  see  from  the  con- 


Old  Mackinaw.  183 

sideration  of  the  surface  drained  by  the  water  cur 
rent  of  Mackinaw.  An  inspection  of  the  map  will 
show  that  from  Long  Lake,  above  latitude  50°, 
to  the  south  end  of  Lake  Michigan,  below  latitude, 
40°,  and  from  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  longitude 
95°,  to  Saginaw  Bay,  longitude  83 °,  the  country  is 
entirely  within  the  drainage  of  lakes  and  river  whose 
currents  concentrate  at  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw. 
This  surface  comprehends  a  square  of  over  six  hun 
dred  miles  on  the  side,  or  nearly  four  hundred  thousand 
square  miles.  Deducting  the  surface  of  the  lakes,  it  is 
enough  to  make  eight  States  as  large  as  Ohio.  In 
that  whole  surface,  there  is  not  a  single  point  which 
can  rival  Mackinaw  as  a  point  of  distribution  for  the 
products  of  that  country.  That  the  advantage  by 
water  lines  is  in  favor  of  Mackinaw,  we  have  shown. 
That  it  will  be  equally  so  by  railroad,  is  evident,  from 
the  fact  that  Mackinaw  city  to  Port  Huron,  and 
thence  to  Buffalo,  need  not  exceed  four  hundred  miles, 
while  that  from  Chicago  to  Buffalo,  in  a  direct  line 
is  five  hundred  and  fifteen  miles. 

"  From  any  other  point  of  Lakes  Michigan  or  Supe 
rior,  where  a  city  can  be  built,  it  is  further.  Mack 
inaw  is,  therefore,  the  natural  centre  of  drainage  and 
distribution  for  a  surface  equal  to  that  of  eight  large 
States,  and  whose  products,  whether  of  field,  fruit, 


184  Old  Mackinaw. 

or  mines,  are  superabundant  in  whatever  creates 
commerce,  sustains  population,  or  affords  the  ma 
terials  of  industry. 

"  We  are  now  considering  Mackinaw  in  a  state  of 
nature,  and  must  look  to  its  natural  products  as  the 
first  and  greatest  elements  of  success.  We  have  con 
sidered  its  climate,  its  water  currents,  its  lines  of 
navigation,  and  the  surface  drainage  for  its  support. 
The  latter  within  a  space  where  there  can  be  no  com 
petition,  we  have  found  to  be  but  little  less  than  400,- 
000  square  miles.  Yast  as  this  is,  it  could  not  support 
a  great  commercial  city,  if  that  were  a  barren  plain. 
"  Hence,  we  must  now  consider  how  far  the  products 
of  the  earth  will  sustain  the  city,  which  such  lines  of 
navigation,  such  means  of  commerce,  and  such  an 
extensive,  surface  leads  us  to  anticipate. 

"  The  soil  is  the  first  thing  to  be  examined.  The 
peninsula  of  Michigan — that  of  Wisconsin  and  the 
Copper  region — of  Minnesota  and  Canada,  which 
make  up  the  larger  portion  of  surface  drained  by  the 
currents  of  Mackinaw,  has  been  supposed  to  be  cold 
and  wet.  But  is  it  more  so  than  northwestern  Ohio 
or  northern  Illinois,  which,  but  twenty  years  since, 
were  scarcely  inhabited,  but  now  are  found  to  afford 
some  of  the  richest  lands  in  the  country  ?  On  this 
point,  we  have  numerous  and  competent  witnesses, 


Old  Mackinaw.  185 

and  whatever  character  they  give  to  the  country,  we 
shall  adopt  as  the  true  criterion  of  its  producing  re 
sources. 

"  First  of  the  Superior  Country,  the  least  agricul 
tural  portion  of  this  district,  we  have  the  concur 
rent  testimony  of  geologists,  miners,  settlers,  and 
travelers,  that  it  is  one  of  the  richest  mining  districts 
in  the  world.  But  in  the  midst  of  it  are  found  some 
fertile  sections.  Of  these,  Mr.  Ferris,  in  his  account 
of  the  Great  West,  says :  '  The  surveyors  report 
some  good  agricultural  lands  (of  which  many 
townships  are  specially  enumerated),  and  these  tracts 
of  fertile  land  will  become  of  great  value,  when  the 
rivers  shall  have  been  opened  and  a  mining  popula 
tion  introduced,  creating  a  sure  and  convenient  home 
market  for  the  productions  of  the  farm.' 

"  Dislurnell,  an  accurate  authority,  speaking  of  the 
Superior  region,  says  :  '  The  traveler -finds  the  whole 
district  to  within  a  few  miles  of  Lake  Superior, 
abounding  in  every  resource  which  will  make  a 
country  wealthy  and  prosperous.  Clear,  beautiful 
lakes  are  interspersed,  and  these  have  plenty  of  large 
trout  and  other  fish.  Water  and  water  powers  are 
everywhere  to  be  found,  and  the  timber  is  of  the 
best  kind — maple  groves,  beech,  oak,  pine,  etc.  No 
thing  is  now  wanted  but  a  few  roads  to  open  this 
16* 


i86  Old  Mackinaw. 

rich  country  to  the  settler,  and  it  will  soon  teem 
with  villages,  schools,  mills,  farming  operations,  and 
every  industrial  pursuit,  which  the  more  southern 
portion  of  our  State  now  exhibits.' 

"  Turning  to  the  immense  territory  north  and  north 
west  of  Superior  and  the  Straits,  now  constituting  a 
portion  of  the  British  Dominions,  and  every  part  of 
which  must  be  tributary  to  Mackinaw,  we  find  that 
it  affords,  like  Prussia  and  Poland,  a  fine  agricultural 
region  for  all  the  breadstuff's  and  vegetables  which. 
are  raised  in  the  northern  part  of  Europe.  A  writer 
in  the  Toronto  Globe,  exhibiting  the  value  of  a  canal 
from  Georgian  Bay  to  Toronto — (a  canal,  the  whole 
commerce  of  which  coming  from  the  northwest,  must 
first  have  passed  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw)  says : 
'Westward  we  possess  vast  and  fertile  countries 
adapted  to  all  the  pursuits  of  agriculture  life,  countries 
susceptible  to  the  highest  cultivation  and  improve 
ment.  Between  Lake  Superior  and  the  Lake  of  the 
Woods  (above  49°  of  latitude),  'we  possess  a  country 
of  this  description,  in  soil  and  character  inferior  to 
no  part  of  Minnesota,  and  bordering  upon  this  ter 
ritory  lies  the  valley  of  the  Assinibone,  or  the  Red 
River,  as  it  is  sometimes  called.  As  a  wheat  grow 
ing  country,  it  will  rival  Canada.  It  does  so  now  in 
soil  and  climate.'  The  writer  is  here  speaking  of 
British  possessions  north  of  Lake  Superior,  and 


Old  Mackinaw.  187 

several  degrees  north  of  Mackinaw.  He  says  they 
are  as  fertile  and  grain-growing  as  Canada,  and 
Canada  we  know  already  produces  not  only  its  own 
breadstuff's,  but  large  quantities  for  exportation.  The 
valley  of  the  Assinibone,  referred  to,  and  the  whole 
region  west  of  Superior  to  the  Lake  of  the  Woods 
and  the  Red  River,  can  have  no  market  outlet  ex 
cept  through  Lake  Superior,  and  thence  near  the 
Straits  of  Mackinaw.  The  writer  sees  this,  and  says  : 
1  The  future  products  of  these  immense  countries 
must  seek  the  seaboard,  and  all  the  canals  and  rail 
roads  which  can  be  constructed  will  scarce  suffice  to 
afford  facilities  for  the  products  of  the  West.' 

"  Let  us  next  examine  the  Southern  Peninsula  of  Mi 
chigan.  If  the  country  far  north  of  it  is  so  productive, 
it  can  scarcely  happen  that  this  can  be  very  deficient, 
although  not  ranked  among  the  most  fertile  districts. 
On  this  point,  we  need  only  cite  the  same  accurate  au 
thority  to  which  we  have  referred.  He  says :  '  The 
numerous  streams  which  penetrate  every  portion  of 
the  peninsula,  some  of  which  are  navigable  for  steam 
boats  a  considerable  distance  from  the  lake,  being 
natural  outlets  for  the  products  of  the  interior,  ren 
der  this  whole  region  desirable  for  purposes  of  set 
tlement  and  cultivation.'  Even  as  far  north  as  the 
Straits  of  Mackinaw,  the  soil  and  climate,  together 


188  Old  Mackinaw. 

with  the  valuable  timber,  offer  great  inducements  to 
settlers  ;  and  if  the  proposed  railroads  under  the  re 
cent  grant  of  large  portion  of  these  lands  by  Con 
gress,  are  constructed  from  and  to  the  different  points 
indicated,  this  extensive  and  heavily  timbered  re 
gion  will  speedily  be  reclaimed,  and  become  one  of 
the  most  substantial  and  prosperous  agricultural  por 
tions  of  the  West.'  After  speaking  of  the  timber  in 
that  country,  the  same  writer  adds  :  '  But  as  the  tim 
ber  is  exhausted,  the  soil  is  prepared  for  cultivation, 
and  a  large  portion  of  the  northern  part  of  the  south 
ern  peninsula  of  Michigan  will  be  settled  and  culti 
vated,  as  it  is  the  most  reliable  wheat-growing  portion 
of  the  Union.'' 

The  Detroit  Daily  Tribune  of  1857,  says:  "  Michi 
gan  is  greatly  undervalued  because  greatly  unknown. 
The  tide  of  emigration  sweeps  past  us  to  Illinois, 
Wisconsin,  Iowa  and  Minnesota,  because  the  public 
do  not  know — what  is  but  the  sober  truth — that 
Michigan  possesses  advantages  unrivaled  by  any 
sister  State  in  the  Northwest,  and  an  undeveloped 
wealth  that  will  far  exceed  any  one  of  those  named. 
This  is  not  a  random  statement,  originating  in  State 
pride  or  self-interest,  but  the  simple  truth  which  is 
slowly  being  found  out  by  the  shrewd  among  men. 
We  propose  to  speak  of  some  of  the  advantages 


Old  Mackinaw.  189 

which  we  possess  in  the  northern  half  of  our  lower 
peninsula,  as  yet  almost  uninhabited  and  unknown. 

"  '  No  other  State  can  boast  of  such  valuable 
forests  of  such  perfect  timber.  Already  our  lumber 
trade  exceeds  in  value  and  importance  that  in  any 
other  staple  products,  not  excepting  wheat,  while  if 
it  were  to  increase  in  the  ratio  of  the  past  five  years, 
in  five  years  more  it  would  exceed  all  the  other  staples 
united,  excepting  only  copper.  But  such  a  rate  of 
increase  would  exhaust  the  pine  timbefr  to  a  great  ex- 
ten  fc  within  ten  years'  time.  Yet  the  demand  for 
pine  lumber  is  absolutely  unlimited,  and  cannot  be 
met. 

"  Look  for  a  moment  at  the  vast  region  depend 
ing  upon  the  pineries  of  Michigan  for  its  supply  of 
lumber  for  building  purposes  of  every  kind — houses, 
fence  and  shelter  of  every  description.  The  great 
States  of  Illinois,  Iowa,  and  Missouri,  and  the  Terri 
tory  of  Minnesota,  depend  almost  solely  upon  Michi 
gan,  and  must  do  so.  The  present  season,  lumber 
has  been  taken  from  the  forest  of  southwestern  New 
York  and  northern  Pennsylvania,  and  sold  in  the 
market  of  St.  Louis,  so  urgent  is  the  demand  and  so 
entirely  inadequate  are  the  present  or  prospective 
rates  of  supply  for  that  demand.  We  have  before  us 
the  statistics  of  the  lumber  trade  of  the  different 


190  Old  Mackinaw. 

States  and  the  principal  markets  in  the  country,  but 
of  what  use  is  a  parade  of  figures  when  a  simple  fact 
will  show  that  the  value  of  the  pine  forest  of  Michi 
gan  must  be  ?  Take  the  State  Iowa  alone.  If  every 
quarter  section  were  to  be  enclosed  with  a  common 
post  and  board  fence,  it  would  take  every  foot  of 
pine  on  the  soil  of  Michigan!  Leave  out  of  sight 
the  great  Territory  of  Minnesota,  which  can  find  but 
a  mere  drop  of  supply  from  the  pineries  of  the  Up 
per  Mississippi.  Leave  out  of  sight  the  great  State 
of  Illinois,  which  depends  upon  us  wholly.  Forget 
entirely  that  villages  are  springing  up  like  magic  all 
along  the  lines  of  a  dozen  railroads  running  from 
Lake  Michigan  to  the  Mississippi ;  that  cities  are 
growing  and  spreading  with  unprecedented  rapidity 
— and  that  every  town  and  village,  and  city,  and 
farm,  must  have  its  dwellings,  and  that  the  cheapest 
and  best  material  for  construction  is  pine.  Leave  all 
these  out  of  the  calculation,  and  remember  only  that 
one  of  these  States  would  consume  all  our  vast  forests 
of  pine  in  fence  boards  alone,  and  the  dullest  compre 
hension  can  perceive,  with  all  these  other  demands 
of  which  we  have  spoken,  in  all  those  other  regions, 
the  value  of  the  pine  region  is  as  certain  as  though 
it  were  a  gold  mine.  And  when  we  consider 
the  pressing  need  for  material  whereof  to  build 


Old  Mackinaw.  191 

over  all  the  western  prairies,  the  wealth  of 
northern  Michigan  cannot  be  put  at  any  low  amount. 
It  must  be  immense — untold. 

"After  the  timber  shall  have  been  removed  in 
obedience  to  the  pressing  demands  of  a  cash  market 
and  high  prices,  the  value  of  northern  Michigan  will 
just  begin  to  be  developed.  The  soil  possesses  riches 
of  which  the  heavy  growth  of  timber  is  the  outcrop 
ping.  Eich  as  any  prairie  land,  even  more  substan 
tial  in  the  elements  of  fertility,  with  a  genial  climate, 
southern  Michigan,  itself  a  garden,  we  predict  will 
have  to  yield  the  palm  of  productive  wealth  to  this 
portion  of  the  State.  Any  one  who  will  take  the 
trouble  to  examine  a  map  of  this  half  of  the  State, 
projected  on  an  extended  scale,  cannot  fail  to  be 
struck  with  the  superabundant  water  privileges  that 
exist.  It  is  literally  covered  with  navigable  rivers, 
and  their  tributaries,  large  streams,  like  the  veins  in 
the  human  system.  These  waters  reach  the  remotest 
part  and  thread  every  portion,  affording  unfailing 
supplies  and  thousands  of  valuable  sites  for  mills  of 
every  description  and  of  all  magnitudes.  The  State 
is  divided  near  its  geographical  centre  by  a  slight 
ridge,  sufficient  to  divide  the  course  of  its  streams. 
Two  of  the  largest  rivers  of  the  State,  the  Manistee 
and  the  Eastern  Au  Sauble,  rise  within  about  three 


Old  Mackinaw.  192 

miles  of  each  other,  run  parallel,  southward,  for 
twenty  iniles  or  more,  approaching  then  within  half 
a  mile  of  each  other,  then  turning  abruptly  almost 
due  east  and  west,  emptying  into  Lakes  Michigan 
and  Huron  respectively  on  almost  the  same  parallel 
of  latitude. 

"  The  Grand  Traverse  region,  embracing  the  val 
ley  of  the  Manistee,  is  also  one  of  the  finest  agricul 
tural  regions  of  the  State  ;  lying  in  the  northerly 
portion,  this  region  still  has  a  mild  climate,  and  the 
finest  grains  and  fruits  are  raised  at  the  settlements, 
as  far  north  as  the  bay. 

"  Much  might  be  said  of  other  counties  throughout 
this  region.  The  whole  slope  of  the  peninsula  em 
bracing  the  courses  of  the  Muskegon  and  Manistee 
.Rivers,  and  from  Grand  Kiver  to  Mackinaw,  is  a  re 
gion  of  rich  soil  excellent  timber  of  all  kinds,  good 
climate,  and  of  easy  access. 

'•'  The  counties  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  State, 
Alpena,  Alcona,  losco,  Arrenac,  and  others  north  of 
Saginaw  Bay,  well  situated,  having  a  large  extent  of 
coast  on  Lake  Huron,  are  not  so  well  adapted  for 
agricultural  purposes,  there  is  much  good  farming- 
land  in  them  all ;  but  the  forests  of  pine  extending 
to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  coast,  render  them  very 
desirable.  Alcona'county,  watered  by  Thunder  Bay 


Old  Mackinaw.  193 

River,  with  some  smaller  streams  emptying  into  Lake 
Huron,  is  almost  wholly  a  pine  region.  Some  of  the 
finest  specimens  of  yellow,  or  Norway  pine,  in  the 
whole  State  are  found  in  this  country.  The  white 
and  yellow  pine  is  nearly  equally  distributed  in  this 
region,  extending  also  into  the  counties  south,  and 
reaching  Rifle  River  in  Saginaw  and  Arrenac  coun 
ties,  having  an  outlet  on  Saginaw  Bay. 

"  This  part  of  the  State,  upon  whose  advantages 
we  have  not  space  to  particularize  as  we  would  like, 
will  be  very  soon  penetrated  by  railroads. 

"  There  are  three  roads  contemplated  by  the  Act  of 
Congress  granting  lands  to  this  State  at  its  last  ses 
sion.  These,  if  built,  will  add  more  to  the  develop 
ment  of  the  natural  wealth  of  Michigan  than  any 
thing  heretofore  proposed  in  the  way  of  public  im 
provement. 

''The  different  routes  pass  through  some  of  the 
best  counties  in  the  State,  and  the  opening  of  such 
thoroughfares  will  induce  a  tide  of  emigration,  such 
as  will  soon  render  northern  Michigan  what  it  ought 
to  be,  one  of  the  most  important  point  in  the  West. 

"  The  State  of  Michigan  is  in  all  respects  more  fa 
vorably  situated  than  any  of  the  Western  States, 
being  surrounded  by  the  lakes  and  with  railroads 
extending  in  every  direction,  affording  the  most  ex- 
17 


194  Old  Mackinaw. 

traordinary  opportunities  to  reach  markets  of  every 
class,  great  or  small. 

"  With  these  natural  advantages  of  transportation 
considered  with  the  immense  natural  resources  of 
this  region  (soil  and  timber)  no  one  will  doubt  the 
very  great  value  of  Michigan  lands. 

"  Fruit  of  all  kinds  is  abundant  in  every  part  of 
this  State.  All  our  exchanges  from  the  interior  are 
acknowledging  presents  of  luscious  peaches,  plums, 
pears,  apples,  etc.,  etc.  This  is  as  it  should  be.  May 
they  all,  each  succeeding  year,  be  remembered  in 
like  manner. 

"  What  is  here  said  of  the  northern  part  of  Michi 
gan,  is  directly  applicable  to  Wisconsin,  the  north 
ern  half  of  which  must  contribute  directly  to  Mack 
inaw.  Of  the  agricultural  capacity  of  this  new  State, 
we  need  say  no  more,  than  that  it  has  already  at 
tained  half  a  million  of  inhabitants,  and  pours  forth 
its  surplus  products  though  the  ports  of  Lake  Michi 
gan. 

"Of  Minnesota,  and  its  productiveness,  less  is 
known.  As  three-fourths  of  that  rich  and  beautiful 
country,  and  the  regions  around  the  heads  of  the  Mis 
sissippi,  must  contribute  to  the  commercial  importance 
of  Mackinaw,  let  us  glance  at  its  agricultural  capacity 
and  prospects.  Minnesota,  of  which  we  heard  but 


Old  Mackina\v.  195 

yesterday,  has  now  two  hundred  thousand  inhabi 
tants,  produces  this  year  two  millions  of  bushels  of 
wheat.  St.  Paul,  its  principal  town  has  fourteen 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  far  to  the  northwest 
from  St.  Peters  to  the  Eed  River,  and  Assinibone, 
the  settlers  are  crowding  in  to  till  farms  and  create 
towns,  where  but  recently  the  wild  wolf  and  the 
wilder  savage,  alone  possessed  the  face  of  the  earth. 
In  latitudes  higher  than  that  of  Mackinaw,  Michigan 
or  Canada  West,  settlements  are  forming,  and  it  re 
quires  no  flight  of  imagination  to  see  that  beautiful 
land  of  lakes,  rivers,  forests,  and  prairies, — cold  as  it 
may  be  in  winter — settled,  tilled,  and  civilized.  The 
fact  of  its  rapid  progress  in  population,  is  sufficient 
proof  of  its  agricultural  capacity  ;  but  we  shall  again 
refer  to  the  testimony  of  actual  observers.  Turning 
to  Mr.  Ferris's  first  description  of  the  Northwest,  we 
rind  his  summing  of  the  climate,  and  agricultural 
advantages  of  Upper  Minnesota.  '  Minnesota  is  de- 
tined  to  become  a  great  agricultural,  and  grazing  re 
gion.  Its  upland  and  lowland  plains  would  support 
a  dairy  that  would  enrich  an  empire.  All  the  prin 
cipal  grains,  and  roots  thrive  there  in  great  vigor, 
as  high  toward  the  north  as  Pernbina,  below  the 
dividing  line  between  the  United  States  and  British 
America.  Latitude  does  not  always  indicate  the 


196  Old  Mackinaw. 

climate  as  has  already  been  shown.  The  character 
of  the  soil  has  great  influence  upon  the  temperature 
of  the  air.  A  quick  warm  soil  makes  a  warm  at 
mosphere.  The  autumns  of  Minnesota  are  greatly 
lengthened  out  by  the  Indian  summer,  that  smoky, 
dreary,  balmy  season,  which  protects  the  surface 
from  frost,  like  a  mantle  flung  upon  the  earth. 
The  cold  nips  the  vegetation,  about  as  early  along 
the  Ohio,  as  along  the  St.  Peters.  The  winters  of 
Minnesota  are  cold ;  but  then  they  are  still  and  calm, 
and  the  icy  air  does  not  penetrate,  as  it  does  in  a, 
windy  climate.' 

"  In  the  brief  review  of  the  agricultural  advantages 
of  that  great  northwestern  region,  whose  centre  of 
commerce  must  ever  be  at  Mackinaw ;  we  have  ar 
rived  at  the  certain  fact,  that  except  small  portions 
of  the  Superior  country,  where  mining  and  mines 
absorb  all  other  interests,  no  country  in  the  northern 
part  of  America  or  Europe,  has  greater  advantages. 
It  is  filled  with  inexhaustible  springs,  and  streams ; 
fertile  in  soil,  rich  in  production,  and  only  needs  the 
cultivating  hand  of  man,  to  render  it  capable  of  sus 
taining  such  dense  populations  as  now  inhabit  the 
same  isothermal  parallel  in  Prussia  and  Poland. 

"Let  as  now  turn  to  its  forests,  mines,  fisheries 
and  resources,  which  though  not  bread,  are  those 


Old  Mackinaw.  197 

from  which  the  implements,  conveniences,  and  much 
of  the  wealth  of  civilization  is  derived.  Of  forests, 
furnishing  almost  illimitable  quantities  of  timber  and 
lumber — this  is  the  very  centre.  Of  this,  we  have 
evidence  in  the  wharves  of  Chicago,  Milwaukee, 
Detroit,  and  far  down  the  lakes.  The  testimony  of 
actual  observers  on  this  point,  is  so  strong  as  to  seem 
almost  incredible.  We  shall  cite  but  two  or  three 
unquestionable  authorities.  The  peninsula,  of  Michi 
gan  is  at  the  present  moment,  one  of  the  greatest 
depositories  of  lumber  in  the  world.  Mr.  Ferris 
says  :  '  On  going  toward  the  north,  the  lumber  be 
comes  more  and  more  plentiful.  Beeches  begin  to 
mingle  with  the  oaks,  and  in  a  day  or  two  beeches  and 
maples  will  predominate  over  other  varieties  of  tim 
bers  ;  large  white-woods  and  bass-woods  will  be  seen 
towering  above  the  forest.  The  white  ash,  the  shag 
bark,  the  black  cherry,  will  have  become  abundant. 
The  woods  will  seem  to  have  been  growing  deeper 
and  denser  every  mile  of  the  way.  Soon  the  travel 
er  will  doubt,  whether  Omnipotence  himself  could 
have  planted  the  trees  larger,  taller,  and  thicker  to 
gether,  than  they  are.' 

"Pressing  still  forward,  the  emigrant  will  enter 
the  great   pine  woods  of  the  north.     For  a  while, 
however,  before  reaching  them,  he  will  have  been 
17* 


198  Old   Mackinaw. 

wandering  through  groves  of  oak,  and  along  the 
borders  of  natural  meadows,  and  through  clumps 
of  beech  and  maple.  But  soon,  as  with  a  single  step, 
the  timber  has  become  all  pine — yellow  pine,  moan 
ing  overhead,  darkening  all  the  ground,  shutting  out 
the  sun,  shutting  out  the  wind."  The  tall  trunks 
support  the  dark  green  canopy  full  fifty  feet  above 
the  earth.  This  belt  of  pine  woods,  stretches  across 
the  peninsula  of  Michigan  from  Saginaw  Bay.  After 
a  while  as  you  proceed  further  to  the  north,  the 
pine  grows  thinner,  and  is  succeeded  by  other  tim 
ber.  "  The  level  lands  again  become  covered  with 
beech  and  maple,  of  a  full  and  convenient  growth, 
with  here  and  there  a  gigantic  Norway  pine,  six 
feet  through  without  limb,  till  it  begins  to  stretch  up 
half  its  length  above  the  surrounding  trees. 

In  northern  Wisconsin,  we  find  another  great 
pinery,  in  which,  in  one  year,  was  sawed  not  less 
than  two  hundred  millions  of  feet  of  pine  timber. 
The  same  authority  to  which  we  have  frequently  re 
ferred,  says :  "  Still  further  north  and  northwest,  is 
one  of  the  finest  tracts  of  pine  land  in  America, 
through  which  the  streams  tumbling  down  frequent 
falls,  afford  an  incalculable  amount  of  water-power, 
just  where  it  is  most  needed  for  the  manufacture  jf 
lumber.  The  Wisconsin  forest  of  ever-greens  i$& 


Old  Mackinaw.  199 

perfectly  immense,  covering  one-third  the  State. 
The  prairies  of  the  Upper  Wisconsin  and  its  tribu 
taries,  are  at  the  present  most  extensive,  and  those 
are  distinguished  still  more  for  the  fine  quality, 
than  for  the  inexhaustible  quantities  of  the  tim 
ber." 

In  the  same  manner,  an  immense  forest  extends 
over  the  upper  part  of  Minnesota,  while  far  to  the 
northwest  in  the  British  possessions,  extend  deep 
forests  of  pine,  spruce,  and  hemlock.  It  is  evident, 
therefore,  that  on  the  great  current  of  the  Straits  of 
Mackinaw,  there  will  float  for  generations  to  come, 
all  the  timber  and  lumber,  which  are  necessary  for 
the  markets  of  commerce,  or  the  uses  of  a  growing 
population. 

Nor  are  the  fisheries  to  be  neglected,  in  any  right 
estimate  of  the  natural  resources  of  that  region. 
Not  only  do  the  one  hundred  thousand  square  miles 
of  lakes  and  streams,  furnish  illimitable  quantities 
of  fish :  but  they  furnish  varieties,  which  are  no 
where  else  to  be  found,  and  which  an  epicurean  taste 
has  long  since  pronounced  among  the  richest  luxu 
ries  of  the  palate.  The  lake  trout,  the  Mackinaw 
trout,  the  Muskeluuge,  and  the  white  fish,  are  cele 
brated  throughout  America.  Good  fishing  grounds 
occur  all  along  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior; 


2oo  Old  Mackinaw. 

affording  a  bountiful  supply.  On  the  south  shore, 
there  are  fisheries  at  White  Fish  Point,  Grand 
Island  near  the  Pitcairn's  Bodes,  Keweenaw  Point, 
La  Point,  and  Apostles'  Islands,  and  at  differ 
ent  stations  on  Isle  Royal,  where  large  quan 
tities  are  taken  and  exported.  Mackinac  Island 
alone  exports  yearly  a  quarter  million  of  dollars' 
worth. 

The  site  of  Old  Mackinaw,  now  the  county  seat 
of  Emmet  county,  and  its  surroundings,  belonged  to 
the  Government  of  the  United  States  until  the  year 
1853,  when  Edgar  Conkling,  Esq.,  of  Cincinnati,  real 
izing  its  importance  as  a  vast  commercial  centre,  and 
one  of  the  finest  positions  for  a  great  city,  formed 
a  company  consisting  of  seven  persons,  and  entered 
at  the  Land  Office  in  Ionia,  Michigan,  near  one  thou 
sand  eight  hundred  acres.  In  1857  that  portion  em 
bracing  the  ancient  site  of  Old  Mackinaw  was  sur 
veyed  and  divided  into  lots.  Mr.  Conkling  has,  re 
cently,  become  the  sole  proprietor  of  the  city,  and 
intends  devoting  his  energies  to  its  development. 
A  pamphlet,  published  some  time  since,  describes  it 
as  follows : 

"The  streets  of  the  city  are  laid  out  eighty  feet  in 
width,  and  the  avenues  from  a  hundred  to  a  hun 
dred  and  fifty  feet  respectively.  In  the  deed  of 


Old   Mackinaw.  201 

dedication  to  the  public,  of  these  streets  and  avenues, 
provision  is  made  for  side-walks  fifteen  feet  in  width 
on  each  side,  to  be  forever  unobstructed  by  improve 
ments  of  any  kind,  shade  trees  excepted,  thus  secur 
ing  a  spacious  promenade  worthy  of  a  place  destined 
to  become  a  principal  resort  for  health  and  pleasure. 
Provision  is  also  made  for  the  proper  use  of  the 
streets  and  avenues  by  railroad  companies  adequate 
to  the  demands  of  the  business  of  a  city.  The  lots, 
with  the  exception  of  those  in  fractional  blocks,  are 
fifty  by  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  thus  affording 
ample  room  for  permanent,  convenient,  and  orna 
mental  improvement. 

The  park,  now  laid  off  and  dedicated  to  the  city, 
embraces  the  grounds  of  Old  Fort  Mackinaw,  sacred 
in  the  history  of  the  country.  These  grounds,  now 
in  their  natural  condition,  are  unequaled  for  beauty 
of  surface,  location,  soil,  trees,  etc.,  by  any  park  in 
any  city  in  the  country,  and  when  the  skillful  hand 
of  the  horticulturist  has  marked  its  outline  and 
threaded  it  with  avenues  and  paths,  pruned  its  trees, 
and  carpeted  its  surface  with  green,  it  will  present 
the  very  perfection  of  all  that  makes  a  park  delight 
ful.  The  character  of  the  soil,  being  a  sandy  loam, 
with  sand  and  gravel  underlying  it,  renders  it  cap 
able  of  the  easiest  and  most  economical  improve- 


2O2  Old    Mackinaw. 

merit,  securing  walks  always  dry,  hard,  and  smooth. 
The  park,  with  suitable  blocks  and  lots  for  county 
and  city  purposes,  such  as  public  buildings,  school- 
houses,  etc.,  will  be  duly  appropriated  to  those  uses, 
whenever  the  proper  authorities  are  prepared  to  select 
suitable  sites ;  and  lots  for  churches,  institutions  of 
learning,  and  charity,  will  be  fully  donated  to  parties 
contemplating  early  improvements.  Thus  the  proprie 
tor  proposes  to  anticipate,  by  avoiding  the  errors  of 
older  cities,  the  wants  of  Mackinaw  city  in  perpe 
tuity,  and  free  forever  its  citizens  from  taxation  for 
any  grounds  required  for  the  public  good.  He  also 
designs  to  place  it  in  the  power  of  the  General 
Government,  to  secure,  by  like  donation  at  an  early 
day,  the  grounds  necessary  for  such  fortifications  as 
the  wants  of  the  country  and  commerce  may  require, 
on  the  simple  condition  of  speedy  improvement. 
This  liberal  policy  will  best  promote  the  true  inter 
ests  of  the  city  and  country,  and  at  the  same  time 
be  productive  of  pecuniary  profit  to  the  proprietors 
and  all  who  may  make  investments  at  that  point. 

The  proprietor  intends  also  to  expend  a  large  por 
tion  of  the  income  from  sales  in  providing  for  the 
public  wants  by  the  construction  of  docks  at  the 
most  important  points,  and  the  establishment  of 
ferries,  for  which  he  has  purchased  the  land  on 


Old  Mackinaw.  203 

the  opposite  'side  of  the  straits.  He  intends  to 
make  loans  also,  as  his  means  will  justify,  to  aid 
parties  in  the  establishment  of  manufactories. 

Building  materials  of  great  variety  and  in  abund 
ance  are  at  hand.  Lumber  can  be  had  for  the  mere 
cost  of  preparation,  and  the  soil,  at  no  distant  point, 
is  suitable  for  making  bricks ;  while  for  immediate 
use,  Milwaukee  can  furnish  the  articles  of  the  best 
kind  in  any  quantities.  The  shores  of  Lake  Supe 
rior  abound  with  exhaustless  quantities  of  granite, 
sandstone  and  marble ;  the  limestone  and  sand  are 
on  the  spot. 

Three  fine  harbors  adjoin  Mackinaw ;  the  one  on 
the  east  being  the  most  spacious,  and  the  best  pro 
tected.  The  new  United  States  charts  show  the 
depth  of  water  sufficient  for  vessels  of  the  largest 
size  navigating  the  lakes.  As  many  as  thirty  ves 
sels  have  been  at  anchor  in  this  harbor.  The  coun 
try  in  the  rear  of  Mackinaw  rises  gradually  until,  at 
the  distance  of  a  mile  or  two,  it  rises  into  an  eleva 
tion  of  high  table  land,  from  points  of  which  there 
is  a  fine  view  of  the  straits  and  surrounding  islands. 
A  mountainous  ridge  extends  up  to  within  two 
miles  of  Mackinaw,  covered  with  a  dense  forest  of 
hard  wood.  The  southern  extremity  of  this  range 
reaches  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Grand  and  Sagi- 


204  Old  Mackinaw. 

naw  rivers.  From  two  to  ten  miles  south  of  Macki 
naw  are  several  beautiful  lakes,  surrounded  by  a 
rich,  warm  soil  of  great  fertility  and  covered  with 
a  heavy  forest  of  hard  wood,  some  of  which  has 
attained  a  gigantic  growth.  These  lakes  abound 
with  fish  of  different  varieties.  Turtles  have  been 
taken  from  them,  measuring  from  one  and  a  half  to 
two  feet  in  diameter.  Almost  every  kind  of  game 
can  be  found  in  the  woods  bordering  upon  these 
lakes,  such  as  the  black  bear,  raccoon,  martin,  fox, 
lynx,  rabbit,  ducks,  partridges  and  pigeons. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

The  entrepot  of  a  vast  commerce — Surface  drained — Superi 
ority  of  Mackinaw  over  Chicago  as  a  commercial  point — 
Exports  and  imports — Michigan  the  greatest  lumber-grow 
ing  region  in  the  world  —  Interminable  forests  of  the 
choicest  pine — Facilities  for  market — Annual  product  of  the 
pineries — Lumbering,  mining  and  fishing  interests — Inde 
pendent  of  financial  crises — Mackinaw,  the  centre  of  a  great 
railroad  system — Lines  terminating  at  this  point — North 
and  South  National  Line — Canada  grants — Growth  of  north 
western  cities — Fuiure  growth  and  prosperity  of  Mackinaw — 
Chicago — Legislative  provisions  for  opening  roads  in  Michi 
gan—The  Forty  Acre  Homestead  Bill — Its  provisions. 

THE  physical  resources  of  this  region  are  of 
such  a  nature  and  variety  as  to  make  Mackinaw 
city  the  entrepot  of  a  vast  commerce.  This  will 
appear,  if  we  consider  that  it  is  the  nearest  point  of 
that  extensive  district,  including  the  entire  north  of 
the  lakes  inaccessible  to  Chicago.  When  all  the 
lines  of  internal  communication  are  completed,  and 
the  different  points  on  the  lakes  settled  down  upon, 
18  (205) 


206  Old  Mackinaw. 

then  the  real  limits  of  Mackinaw  will  drain  a  geo 
graphical  surface  of  three  hundred  thousand  square 
miles;  deducting  the  surface  of  the  lakes  from 
which,  there  will  remain  two  hundred  and  eighty 
thousand  square  miles  of  country,  with  all  the  re 
sources  of  agriculture  and  mining  in  the  most  ex 
traordinary  degree.  It  will  be  nearly  three-fold 
that  which  can  be  drained  by  Chicago,  and  in  point 
of  territory,  whether  of  quantity  or  quality,  Macki 
naw  is  vastly  superior,  as  a  commercial  point.  With 
the  exception  of  a  small  portion  of  the  mineral  re 
gion,  the  agricultural  advantages  of  Michigan,  Up 
per  Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  Canada  West,  and  the 
Superior  country,  are  at  least  equal,  at  the  present 
time,  to  the  district  shipping  at  Chicago,  while  it  is 
more  extensive,  and  will  have  a  large  home  market 
in  a  country  affording  diversity  of  employment. 
Nothing  can  be  more  obvious,  than  the  superior  ad 
vantages  of  Mackinaw,  as  a  manufacturing  point, 
over  any  other  on  the  lake  coast. 

The  value  of  exports  and  imports  which  flow 
through  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw  and  the  Saut 
St.  Mary  was  estimated  a  year  or  two  since  at 
over  one  hundred  millions  of  dollars.  But,  who  can 
estimate  a  commerce  which  every  year  increases  in 
many  fold?  Tn  1856,  there  were  sent  through  the 


Old  Mackinaw.  207 

St.  Mary  Canal  11,000  tons  of  raw  iron,  1,040  tons 
of  blooms,  and  10,452,000  Ibs.  of  copper  ;  and  the 
commercial  value  of  what  passed  through  the  canal 
amounted  to  upward  §5,000,000.  But  perhaps  the 
most  correct  idea  of  the  rapid  increase  of  commerce 
in  Lake  Superior  may  be  taken  from  the  arrivals 
at  Superior  City  for  the  last  three  years,  taken  from 
the  Superior  Chronicle  of  January,  1857. 

In  1854  there  were  two  steamboats  and  five  sail 
vessels.  In  1855  there  were  twenty-three  steamers, 
and  ten  sail  vessels ;  and  in  1856  forty  steamers  and 
sixteen  sail  vessels. 

We  thus  see  that  in  three  years  the  increase  was 
seven-fold.  It  is  scarcely  possible  to  imagine  the 
limits  of  northwestern  commerce  on  the  lake,  when 
a  few  years  shall  have  filled  up  with  inhabitants  the 
surrounding  territories. 

According  to  the  testimony  of  Senator  Hatch, 
made  on  the  floor  of  Congress  on  the  25th  of  Feb- 
rury,  1859,  there  were  over  one  thousand  six  hun 
dred  vessels  navigating  the  northwestern  lakes,  of 
which  the  aggregate  burden  was  over  four  hundred 
thousand  tons.  They  were  manned  by  over  thirteen 
thousand  seamen,  navigating  over  five  thousand 
miles  of  lake  and  fiver  coast,  and  transporting  over 
six  hundred  millions  of  exports  and  imports,  being 


208  Old  Mackinaw. 

greater  than  the  exports  and  imports  of  the  United 
States. 

The  State  of  Michigan  is  the  greatest  lumber- 
growing  region  in  the  world,  not  only  on  account  of 
its  interminable  forests  of  the  choicest  pine,  but  in 
the  remarkable  facilities  for  getting  it  to  market. 
With  a  lake  coast,  on  the  lower  peninsula  alone,  of 
over  one  thousand  miles — with  numberless  water 
courses  debouching  at  convenient  distances  into  her 
vast  inland  seas — she  enjoys  advantages  which 
mighty  empires  might  envy.  Her  white- winged 
carriers  are  sent  to  almost  every  point  of  the  com 
pass  with  the  product  of  her  forests,  which,  wherever 
it  may  go,  is  the  sign  of  improvement  and  progress, 
while  by  the  large  expenditures  involved  in  the  ma 
nufacture,  and  the  employment  of  thousands  of 
hardy  laborers,  the  general  prosperity  is  materially 
enhanced,  and  a  market  opened  within  her  own  bor 
ders  for  a  considerable  share  of  the  surplus  produc 
tion  of  her  own  soil. 

The  annual  product  of  the  pineries  alone  amount 
to  the  sum  of  ten  and  a  half  millions  of  dollars.  The 
lumbering,  mining,  and  fishing  interest  combine  to 
furnish  by  far  the  best  home  market  in  the  Union, 
and  one  which  in  seasons  when  "a  large  surplus  is 
not  compelled  to  seek  a  market,  can  boast  its  inde- 


Old  Mackinaw  209 

pendence  of  the  "  bulls"  and  "  bears"  of  the  great 
commercial  metropolis.  The  dense  forests  in  the  inte 
rior  of  the  State  have  not  yet  been  reached,  and  when 
the  contemplated  roads  are  made,  a  field  will  be  pre 
sented  for  the  investment  of  capital  of  a  most  remu 
nerative  character 

The  government  has  already  taken  such  steps  as 
will  soon  make  Mackinaw  the  centre  of  a  great  rail 
road  system.  We  need  only  refer  to  the  actual  facts 
in  order  to  make  this  clear.  Congress,  by  an  act 
passed  in  1-855-6,  granted  to  the  State  of  Michigan 
a  large  body  of  land  for  railroad  purposes,  designat 
ing  four  routes.  1.  From  Little  Noquet  Bay  to  Mar* 
quette,  in  the  Superior  country.  2.  From  Amboy, 
on  the  State-line  of  Ohio,  through  Lansing  to  or 
near  Mackinaw.  3.  From  Grand  Eapids  to  Macki 
naw.  4.  From  Grand  Haven  to  Port  Huron.  It 
will  be  seen  that  this  plan  is  formed  on  the  basis  of 
a  direct  line  from  Lake  Superior  through  the  mine 
ral  regions  to  Lake  Michigan.  The  law  fortunately 
permitted  the  last  two  companies  to  make  their  lines 
at  or  near  Traverse  Bay,  and  as  Mackinaw  is  but 
comparatively  a  short  distance,  both  companies  have 
wisely  concluded  to  terminate  their  lines  at  Macki 
naw.  It  is  at  once  evident  that  the  Michigan  line, 
centering  at  Mackinaw,  must  be  met  there,  by  rail- 
18* 


2io  Old  Mackinaw. 

roads  penetrating  various  sections  of  the  northern 
peninsula.  This  is  evident,  and  we  understand  is 
already  foreseen,  and  measures  will  be  adopted  to 
accomplish  that  end.  In  the  mean  time,  let  us  ex 
amine  the  prospects  and  influence  of  the  two  long 
lines  of  Michigan  railway  terminating  at  Mackinaw. 
The  whole  amount  of  land  granted  to  the  Michigan 
railways  is  estimated  to  be  about  3,880,000  acres. 
From  this,  however,  there  will  be  some  deduction  in 
consequence  of  lands  already  selected,  and  which  may 
not  be  supplied  by  the  quantity  within  the  limited 
distance.  The  deficiency  will  not  be  great,  and  we 
understand  that  the  amount  estimated  for  the  two 
Mackinaw  roads  will  scarcely  be  less  than  two  rinil- 
lions  of  acres.  Of  the  quantity  and  value  of  these 
lands,  we  give  the  estimate  made  by  these  roads,  as 
well  as  the  cost  of  construction.  The  estimate  made 
by  the  Grand  Ra,pids  and  Indiana  Railroad  is  as 
follows : 

"The  proximity  to  lake  navigation;  having  sev 
eral  navigable  rivers  passing  through  them,  the 
abundance  of  hydraulic  power,  the  healthfullness 
of  the  climate,  the  fertility  of  the  soil;  and  lying 
immediately  on  the  line  of  this  road,  are  facts  which 
contribute  to  enhance  the  value  of  these  lands. 

"The  length  of  this  road  from  the  Straits  of  Macki- 


Old  Mackinaw.  211 

naw  to  Fort  Wayne,  will  be  about  three  hundred 
and  fifty  miles.  If  the  company  meet  with  as  good 
success  as  the  merits  of  the  enterprise  deserve,  the 
entire  cost  of  the  road  should  not  be  over  §25,000 
per  mile,  which  makes  an  aggregate  sum  of  §8- 
759,000." 

On  the  supposition  that  the  minimum  amount  of 
land  is  obtained  and  sold,  at  half  the  price  above 
stated,  there  will  yet  be  broad  enough  basis  to  se 
cure  the  construction  of  the  work. 

The  Amboy  and  Lansing  Company  are  equally 
confident  of  success.  They  have  also  located  a  large 
quantity  of  land,  and  expect  their  value  to  be  equi 
valent  to  the  construction  of  their  road.  Accord 
ingly,  they  have  put  a  portion  of  their  road  under 
contract,  and  have  obtained  large  local  subscrip 
tions. 

Both  these  lines  of  railroad  will  terminate  at 
Mackinaw,  on  the  north,  and  Cincinnati  on  the 
south ;  hence  they  will  be  carried  south  till  they  ter 
minate  at  Norfolk,  Charleston,  Savannah,  and  Pen- 
sacola,  thus  forming  the  grandest  and  most  exten 
sive  system  of  railroads  on  the  continent.  Nothing 
in  America  equals  it — nothing  in  Europe  can  com 
pare  with  it !  When  all  the  links  shall  have  been 


212  Old  Mackinaw. 

completed,  it  will  stand  out  the  greatest  monument 
to  human  labor  and  genius  which  the  world  presents. 

The  single  line  from  Mackinaw  to  Pensacola  has 
been  looked  upon  as  one  of  the  most  important  un 
dertakings  of  the  age.  We  extract  from  the  "  Ex- 
positon  of  its  Plan  and  Prospects,"  by  E.  D.  Mans 
field,  Esq.,  some  of  the  facts,  which  exhibit  its 
importance,  and  bearing,  and  influence  on  Mackinaw 
City. 

"To  illustrate,"  says  the  Exposition,  "the  value 
of  this  North  and  South  National  Line,  by  its  power 
of  producing  commerce,  mark,  in  a  tabular  form, 
the  natural  products  of  each  degree  of  latitude, 
thus : — 

States.         Latitude.  Productions. 

Florida,  -    -  31  deg.     -     -  Oranges. 
"        -    -  31     "  -  Sugar. 

-  -  31     "  -  Cotton. 
Alabama,   -  32     " 

"        -   -  33     "       -     -         " 

-  -  34     "  -  Cotton,  Corn. 
Tennessee,  -  35     " 

"  -  36  "  -  -  Cotton,  corn,  tobac.,  iron. 

Kentucky,  -  37  "  -  -  Corn,  tobac.,  coal,  iron. 

"  -  -  38  "  -  Corn,  wh't,  cat.  tob.  h'mp. 

Ohio,  -  -  -  39  "  -  -  Corn,  wh't.  cat.  h'gs, wine. 


Old  Mackinaw.  213 

States.  Latitude.  Productions. 

-  -    -  40     "  -  Wli't,  c'rn,  h'gs,  cat.,  flax. 

-  41     "  -  Wheat,  corn,  cattle. 
Michigan,   -  42     "       -     -  Wheat,  cattle,  hay,  wool. 

-  43     ''       -     -  Pine,  cedar,  coal. 
"     -  -    -  44     "       -     -  Pine,  cedar,  coal. 

-  45     "  -  Pine,  .hemlock,  cedar. 

-  -    -  46     "  -  Pine,  copper,  lead,  fish. 
This  statement  is  enough   to  show  an   extraordi 
nary  stimulus  to   commerce,  on  a  line   of  railway. 
The  length  of  the  entire  line  will  be  less  than  half 
that  which  is  proposed  to  be  made  from  Cincinnati 
and   other   cities  to    San  Francisco ;    yet,  will  pass 
through    varieties   of  production,   which    that   line 
cannot  have.     In  two  days,  every  inhabitant  on  that 
line  may  be  supplied,  from  their  native  source,  with 
sugar,  cotton,  corn,  wheat,  tobacco,  iron,  coal,  lead, 
copper,    pine,    cedar,   with  wool,   flour,    hemp,  and 
fruits  of  every  description ;  with  fish  of  the  sea  and 
fish  of  the  lakes ;  with  bread,  and  oil,  and  wine ;  in 
fine,  with  everything  that  supports,  clothes,  or  houses 
man;  with    everything  that  supplies  his  wants,  or 
contributes  to  his  material  happiness." 

It  is  obvious,  that  such  a  line  of  railroad  as  this — 
peculiar  in  its  resources,  vast  in  its  comprehensions, 
and  embracing  in  its  grasp  all  the  products  of  tro- 


214  ^^  Mackinaw. 

pic  or  of  temperate  climes — must,  of  itself,  rear,  at 
its  termini,  commercial  towns  of  great  importance. 
But,  this  is  not  all.  The  road  from  Grand  Haven 
to  Port  Huron  will  intersect  the  Amboy  and  Lans 
ing  line  about  mid-way,  and  then  a  railroad  will  at 
once  be  made  in  the  direction  of  the  Canada  lines 
and  Buffalo — completing  the  radii  from  the  far 
northwest  through  Mackinaw,  to  the  eastern  Atlantic. 
The  natural  point  of  termini  for  the  Northern  Pa 
cific  and  Canada  Railroads  is  also  at  the  Straits  of 
Mackinaw.  The  one  giving  financial  strength  and 
business  to  the  other,  connecting  Portland  with  the 
mouth  of  Columbia  by  the  nearest  possible  route. 

Canada  has  already  granted  four  million  acres  of 
land  to  railroads  running  to  Saut  St.  Mary.  Those 
having  the  management  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
railroad  will  do  well  to  consider  the  propriety  of 
co-operating  and  uniting  with  the  Canada  and  Pacific 
Railroad  at  the  Straits. 

The  following  from  the  New  York  Daily  News 
is  valuable  in  this  connection.  It  is  from  the  pen 
of  E.  Conkling,  Esq.  :— 

"You  will  please  excuse  me  for  calling  your  at 
tention,  not  to  the  importance  of  a  Pacific  railroad, 
for  that  is  conceded,  and  our  country  is  suffering  from 
want  of  it,  but  to  the  mode  of  getting  the  means  to 


Old  Mackinaw.  215 

construct  the  Northern  Pacific  railroad.  I  don't  re 
member  to  have  noticed  as  yet  any  allusion  to  this 
method,  or  any  other  practical  one,  aud  I  trust  you 
will  consider  the  suggestions,  and  add  thereto  any 
other  methods.  . 

"  The  railroads  now  provided  for  and  made  to  St. 

t 

Paul,  and  Crow  Wing  from  Chicago  and  Milwaukee 
will  have  exhausted  local  means,  State  aid  and  avail 
able  land  grants.  However  desirable  it  may  be  to 
sustain  those  roads  by  a  business  beyond  that,  and 
to  the  country  beyond  that,  by  extending  the  North 
ern  Pacific  Railroad,  yet  for  want  of  means  it  cannot 
be  done,  unless  foreign  capitalists  can  be  induced  by 
land  grants,  at  least  to  invest  sufficient  to  make  the 
road  finally,  and  be  made  to  see  that  their  present  large 
unproductive  investments  in  Canada  railroads  can 
be  made  productive  in  the  use  of  more  of  their 
capital. 

Canada  railroads  lie  too  far  North  to  receive  any 
benefit  in  business  from  railroads  terminating  from 
the  northwest  as  far  south  as  Chicago,  and  but  little 
from  the  railroads  terminating  at  Milwaukee,  as  the 
cost  of  transhipment  and  delay  to  cross  by  steam 
ferry  eight  months  yearly  at  Milwaukee  with  eighty- 
five  miles  ferriage,  must  divert  the  trade  and 
travel  either  to  the  north  or  south  end  of  Lake  Mi- 


21 6  Old  Mackinaw. 

chigan,  and  every  year  will  render  that  delay  and 
cost  more  unpopular.  And  yet  to  get  that  trade  the 
Great  Western  Eailroad  of  Canada  have  permanently 
invested  $750,000,  in  the  Detroit  and  Milwaukee 
Railroad,  and  recently  loaned  a  half  a  million  more, 
demonstrating  the  idea  I  shall  advance,  that  to  make 
good  present  investments  more  means  can  bo  had. 
The  State  of  Michigan  itself  will  furnish  a  good 
trade  to  roads  through  it  and  to  roads  east  of  it. 

"The  Straits  of  Mackinaw  is  the  great  natural 
ferry  of  about  four  miles  wide  for  roads  of  Michigan 
and  Canada  to  centre,  the  point  necessarily  for  the 
passage  of  lake  commerce,  and  for  a  large  population 
north  of  it  to  cross,  naturally  attracting  and  com 
bining  elements  of  great  importance  to  railroads. 

"  Land  grants  are  now  made  to  the  straits  from  the 
south.  The  Grand  Trunk  and  Great  Western  Rail 
roads  of  Canada  can  go  to  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw, 
aided  by  those  grants.  The  Ottawa  and  Huron 
Railroad  to  Saut  St.  Mary,  may  also  go  to  the  Straits, 
aided  by  land  grants  from  Saut  St.  Mary.  From 
there  the  three  Canadian  railroads,  aided  by  land 
grants  yet  to  be  made,  can  go  to  Crow  Wing  or  near 
there,  and  there  form  a  junction  with  the  Chicago 
roads — thence  to  the  Pacific,  aided  by  land  grants. 

"  By  affording  the  Canada  interest  a  chance  for  a 


Old  Mackinaw.  217 

portion  of  the  Pacific  trade,  and  thus  making  present 
Canada  investments  profitable,  it  is  made  the  in 
terest  of  foreign  capitalists  to  make  our  Northern 
Pacific  railroad. 

"This  protective  interest  to  Canada  railroads  is 
the  greatest  inducement  to  be  offered  them. 

"  They  will  not  invest  in  the  road  beyond  Crow 
Wing,  simply  for  the  sake  of  grants  of  lands,  made 
valuable  only  by  the  outlay  of  their  money;  even 
should  the  lands  finally  redeem  the  previous  outlay 
for  the  road,  that  is  no  object,  because  the  road  will 
not  pay  more  than  cost  of  running  and  sustaining  it, 
and  if  it  should  some  beyond  that,  it  will  be  frittered 
away  by  bad  management  and  stealing.  At  least  it 
is  fair  to  suppose  so,  and  hence  they  must  be  assured 
of  enough  of  land  grants  to  finally  make  the  road, 
which  of  itself  will  pay  nothing,  only  in  the  way  of 
affording  the  roads  east  of  Crow  Wing,  owned  by 
them,  fair  dividends.  This  consideration  will  of  it 
self  induce  them  to  furnish  capital  to  the  Pacific,  and 
it  is  in  the  power  of  the  government  thus  to  interest 
them.  No  other  proposed  route  can  claim  foreign 
aid  because  of  such  good  reasons.  Our  government 
can  aid  only  in  lands;  in  valueless  lands  she  is  or 
may  be  wealthy.  No  bill  can  pass  Congress,  only 
by  affording  equal  aid  in  lands  to  the  Northern, 
19 


21 8  Old  Mackinaw. 

Central  and  Southern  routes,  each  standing  on  their 
commercial  merits  before  capitalists. 

"The  chance  for  us  thus  to  enlist  them,  is  but  for 
a  limited  time.  Soon  they  will  become  committed 
to  the  North  Canada  Pacific  Koad,  north  of  Lake 
Superior,  when  they  will  not  help  ours,  and  thus 
protract  ours  for  want  of  means  and  competing  road. 
At  present,  two  of  the  most  important  Canada  roads 
can  be  enlisted  in  the  above  views,  because  if  the 
Canada  road  north  of  Lake  Superior  is  made,  it  will 
divert  the  trade  from  them,  they  being  too  far  south 
to  be  benefited.  But  by  going  to  the  Straits  of 
Mackinaw,  they  secure  a  division  of  the  Western 
trade — among  the  three  roads.  The  road  through 
the  mineral  regions  will  develop  that  country  and 
afford  a  good  market  for  the  produce  of  the  country 
west  of  it. 

"  Chicago  is  no  more  on  the  direct  route  from  the 
East  to  Iowa,  than  is  Mackinaw  city  on  the  direct 
route  to  the  northwest  from  New  York. 

"  Lake  Michigan  naturally  forces  such  a  division 
of  the  Western  and  Northwestern  trade,  and  the 
Strait  of  Mackinaw  is  most  favorably  situated  for 
crossing.  Cars  can  be  transferred  by  ferry  boat 
from  point  to  point,  without  delay  or  cost  of  trail 
shipment. 


Old  Mackinaw.  219 

That  country  is  nearer  to  market  than  any  other 
Western  State ;  cheaper  lands  and  good  soil,  and 
healthy  climate,  and  a  superior  wheat  country,  af 
fording  employment  in  lumbering,  fishing,  mining, 
manufacturing,  &c.,  offering  great  inducements  to 
foreigners,  and  of  interest  to  New  York,  to  be  set 
tled." 

The  history  of  the  West  has  presented  some  re 
markable  facts,  contrary  to  the  ordinary  experience 
of  human  progress.  It  is  assumed,  as  an  historical 
fact,  in  European  or  Asiatic  progress,  that  the  growth 
of  towns  and  states  must  be  slow.  It  requires  gene 
rations  to  bring  them  to  maturity,  and  even  imperial 
power  has  failed  to  create  cities,  without  the  aid  of 
time  and  gradual  increase.  But,  this  has  been  re 
versed  in  America.  We  cannot  take  it  for  granted 
that  because  the  natural  site  of  a  town  is  now 
clothed  with  the  forest,  and  remote  from  habitations, 
that  it  will  not  become  a  prosperous  city,  within  a 
half-dozen  years.  For,  we  know  that  in  the  North 
west,  cities  have  arisen  on  a  substantial  basis,  to  a 
numerous  population,  in  a  space  so  brief  that  history 
has  no  record  of  their  existence,  and  the  school  maps 
no  name  for  the  place  of  their  being. 

Chicago  which  commenced  its  growth  in  1834, 
had  a  population  in  1857,  of  100,000,  Milwaukee  in 


22O  Old  Mackinaw. 

twenty-one  years  rose  to  50.000,  St.  Paul  in  fifteen 
years  to  15;000 ;  Keokuk  in  eighteen  years  to  15.000, 
Grand  Rapids  in  twelve  years  to  8000  ;  Saginaw  city 
in  twenty-two  year  4000,  and  Superior  city  in  the 
short  space  of  two  years  to  4000. 

We  thus  see,  that,  in  the  Northwest,  cities  do  grow 
up,  in  the  midst  of  the  wilderness,  and  the  wilderness 
itself  soon  blooms  as  the  rose.  To  say,  then,  that  a 
point  affording  every  natural  and  commercial  ad 
vantage  for  the  growth  of  a  large  city  is  not  now  a 
city,  is  to  say  nothing  against  its  position  or  pro 
spects.  Within  the  memory  of  a  generation  the  five 
great  States,  (which  have  heretofore  been  termed  the 
Northwest,)  contained  less  then  a  half  a  million  of 
people,  and  Cleveland,  Toledo,  Chicago,  Milwaukee, 
and  St.  Paul,  were  not  even  dots  on  the  map  of 
States.  A  mission  or  a  military  fort  was  all  they 
could  boast.  These  States  now  contain  six  millions 
of  inhabitants,  and  the  towns  on  the  lake  shore  two 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand.  But  to  present  the 
point  of  growth,  in  the  clearest  point  of  view,  let  us 
consider  it  dependent  wholly  on  that  of  the  surround 
ing  country.  This  we  can  tell  almost  precisely. 
We  know  the  rate  of  growth  in  Michigan,  Wisconsin, 
Minnesota  and  Canada  West. 

Canada  West  in  1840,  had  a  population  of  640,000, 


Old   Mackinaw.  221 

in  1850,  of  982,000,  and  in  1857,  1,100,000,  Michi 
gan  in  1840,  was  212,000,  in  1850,  397,000,  and  in 
1857,  700,000.  The  population  of  Wisconsin  in 
1840,  was  30,000,  in  1850,  it  was  305,991,  and  in 
1857,  it  was  600.000.  The  increase  in  Minnesota  in 
seventeen  years  was  200,000. 

The  annual  increment  from  1840  to  1850,  was 
50,000  per  annum,  or  about  six  per  cent.  The  an 
nual  increment  from  1850  to  1857,  was  172,000,  or 
about  twelve  per  cent.  The  ratio  of  increase  is, 
therefore,  increasing,  and  we  in  ay  assume  it  will  not 
be  less  than  ten  per  cent,  per  annum  till  1860.  This 
will  give  3,380,000  for  1860,  or  fourfold  the  popula 
tion  of  1840 !  At  a  diminishing  ratio  the  territory 
round  Mackinaw  will  contain  5,400,000  in  1870, 
and  (8,000,000)  eight  millions  in  1880.  The  princi 
pal  city  of  the  district  (wherever  it  may  be)  must 
then  contain  about  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants. 

Of  the  cities  and  towns  we  have  above  enume 
rated,  the  greatest  and  most  rapid  in  its  development 
is  Chicago,  whose  first  warehouse  lot  was  sold  in 
1834,  and  which,  in  1857,  is  said  to  contain  near  one 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  Let  us,  for  a  moment, 
compare  the  material  advantages  and  resources  of  that 
place,  with  those  of  Mackinaw  city.  Dean  Swift 
said,  that  a  large  city  must  combine  the  resources  of 


222  Old   Mackinaw. 

agriculture;  "commerce  and  manufactures.  Cities 
have  risen,  however,  to  large  size  almost  exclusively 
on  commerce.  Witness  Tyre  and  Palmyra.  But 
commerce,  we  concede,  when  left  to  itself,  is  so  fluc 
tuating,  that  the  cities  it  builds,  like  Tyre  and  Pal 
myra,  may,  in  the  decay  of  commerce,  be  left  to  ruin 
and  desolation.  Cities  may,  likewise,  be  built  up 
almost  exclusively  on  manufactures,  such  as  Bir 
mingham  and  Sheffield ;  and  it  is  quite  remarkable 
that  the  oldest  and  most  stable  cities  have  depended 
largely  on  manufactures.  Damascus,  the  oldest  his 
torical  city — which  has  resisted  all  the  destructive 
influences  of  time  and  revolution — has  always  been 
a  manufacturing  town.  Paris,  Lyons,  Lisle,  the 
great  interior  towns  of  France,  depend  very  largely 
on  the  manufacture  of  fine  and  fashionable  articles, 
distributed  throughout  Europe  and  America,  Of  the 
great  elements  of  civic  success,  we  consider  manufac 
tures  the  most  important ;  but,  to  make  a  city  of 
the  first  magnitude,  it  is  obviously  necessary  to  have 
all  the  resources  of  food,  industry  and  commerce. 
Chicago  is  remarkable  chiefly  as  a  grain  city — like 
Odessa,  on  the  Baltic.  But,  whence  is  the  grain  de 
rived?  By  the  construction  of  railroads,  at  that 
point,  from  Indiana,  Illinois.  Missouri,  Wisconsin 
and  Iowa,  the  whole  mass  of  surplus  grain  in  that 


Old  Mackinaw.  223 

region — amounting  to  more  than  twenty  millions  of 
bushels  per  annum — has  been  exported  from  Chicago. 
But,  this  is  the  drainage  of  three  hundred  thousand 
square  miles,  two-thirds  of  which  will  not  export 
through  Chicago  when  railroads  extend  directly  east 
to  Milwaukee,  Superior  and  Mackinaw,  from  Wis 
consin  and  Iowa,  and  connect,  from  the  south,  at 
Cairo,  with  Missouri  and  Illinois.  Reduced  to  its 
own  proper  limits,  the  agricultural  resources  of 
Chicago  must  be  confined  to  half  the  surface  of  Il 
linois,  Missouri  and  Iowa,  or  about  one  hundred 
thousand  square  miles.  This  is  but  little  over  one- 
third  the  surface  drained  of  agricultural  products  to 
ward  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw.  Will  it  be  said  that 
this  new  region  of  the  Northwest  is  less  productive 
in  agriculture  ?  The  contrary,  for  the  great  element 
of  breadstuffs,  is  likely  to  be  true.  Attentive  ob 
servers  of  agricultural  production  have  remarked, 
that  the  different  grains  produced  most  on  the  northern 
edge  of  the  belt,  in  which  they  will  grow  at  all.  Is  it 
not  so  in  Europe?  The  isothermal  line  of  Mackinaw 
pass.es  in  the  midst  of  those  countries  which  alone 
produce  the  surplus  grain  of  Europe,  viz.,  Prussia, 
Pomerania,  Poland,  Southern  Russia.  As  if  to  place 
this  beyond  a  doubt,  the  crops  of  Canada  West  have, 
in  fact,  failed  much  less  frequently  than  those  of 


224  Old  Mackinaw. 

Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois.  In  regard  to  agricul 
tural  production,  it  will  be  difficult  to  show  that  the 
country  drained  by  Chicago,  has  any  advantage  over 
that  which  will  be  drained  by  the  Straits  of  Mack 
inaw. 

In  regard  to  commerce — the  natural  position  of 
Mackinaw  is  far  superior  to  Chicago.  Mackinaw  is 
at  the  head  of  Lake  Michigan — Chicago,  at  the  foot. 
Mackinaw  is  at  the  junction  of  three  great  lakes; 
Chicago  at  the  foot  of  one.  Mackinaw  will  concen 
trate  the  navigation  of  eighty  thousand  square  miles 
of  water  surface;  Chicago  of  twenty-four  thousand. 
Mackinaw  is  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  nearer 
the  Atlantic  by  water ;  three  hundred  miles  nearer  the 
upper  extremity  of  the  lakes,  and  as  much  nearer 
any  of  the  Eastern  Lake  ports  which  are  points  of 
distribution.  The  comparison  need  be  made  no  fur 
ther,  for  whoever  looks  upon  the  map  will  see,  that, 
while  Chicago  touches  one  end  of  a  single  lake,  a 
world  of  waters  gather  round  Mackinaw.  For  an 
internal  water  commerce,  it  has  no  equal. 

It  will  be  said,  that  railroads  now  carry  commerce. 
This  is  true,  but,  railroads  do  not  carry  commerce 
over  the  surface  of  lakes,  and  the  multiplication  of 
vessels  on  the  lakes  proves  that  that  commerce  will 
ever  be  great  and  increasing.  But  what  railroad 


Old  Mackinaw.  22 5 

commerce  can  be  greater  than  that  which  will  con 
centrate  at  Mackinaw,  when  it  connects,  in  a  direct 
line,  not  only  with  the  cities  of  the  Ohio  Valley,  but 
with  those  of  the  far  South.  To  Cincinnati,  to 
Louisville,  to  Charleston,  Savannah,  and  Pensacola, 
will  the  cars  move,  laden  with  the  people  and  pro 
ducts  of  the  North.  Lastly,  neither  Chicago  nor 
any  other  point  can  be  superior  to  Mackinaw  in  the 
elements  necessary  to  support  manufactures,  the 
great  support  of  cities,  these  elements  we  have  already 
exhibited  in  detail.  Copper,  iron,  lead,  coal,  wood, 
timber,  bread,  in  fine,  everything  which  can  feed 
machinery,  give  material  for  its  work,  or  feed  the 
people  who  gather  in  the  great  workshops  of  indus 
try,  and  distribute  the  products  of  labor.  Here  ma 
terials  all  lie  near  enough  for  the  purposes  of  either 
work  or  distribution.  Birmingham,  Manchester, 
Lyons,  and  Cincinnati,  have  their  materials  no  nearer. 
There,  if  anywhere,  is  a  site  peculiarly  proper  for  a 
manufacturing  town. 

But,  neither  agriculture,  commerce,  nor  manufac 
tures  are  the  only  things  necessary  to  build  up  a 
large  city.  Healthiness  is  more  important  than  either. 
Here  again,  Mackinaw  has  more  advantage  over 
Chicago.  Mackinaw  has  been  proved  by  two  hun 
dred  years  experience  to  be  one  of  the  healthiest 


226  Old  Mackinaw. 

points  in  America.  Chicago  is  generally  healthy, 
but  is  subject  to  more  severe  epidemics.  The  cholera 
visited  it  in  in  1832  and  in  1849,  with  fearful  force ; 
while  its  very  low  position  and  muddy  streets  ex 
pose  its  inhabitants  to  those  diseases  which  arise 
from  damps. 

The  Legislature  of  Michigan,  recently  passed  a 
bill  to  provide  for  the  drainage  and  reclamation  of 
the  swamp  lands  of  the  State  by  a  system  of  State 
roads,  accompanied  by  a  lengthy  and  able  report. 
The  bill  provides  among  others,  a  road  from  Ionia 
north  to  the  straits,  and  thence  to  Saut  St.  Mary. 

They  also  passed  a  bill  entitled  the  "  Forty  Acre 
Homestead  Act."  This  act  requires  the  commis 
sioners  of  the  State  Land  office  to  issue  a  certificate 
of  purchase  to  every  settler  on  the  swamp  lands  be 
longing  to  the  State,  for  forty  acres  of  said  lands, 
whenever  such  settler  shall  have  resided  upon  it  for 
five  continuous  years,  and  when  he  has  drained  the 
same  so  as  to  comply  with  the  provisions  of  the  Act 
of  Congress  making  this  grant  to  the  State.  Before 
the  settler  can  acquire  the  right  thus  to  occupy  and 
drain  any  of  the  swamp  lands,  he  is  required  to  file 
with  the  commissioner  his  application,  accompanied 
by  an  oath  of  his  intention  to  nettle  upon  and  drain 
it  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  a  title  thereto.  And 


Old  Mackinaw.  227 

he  must  also  make  oath  that  he  is  not  already  the 
owner  of  forty  acres  of  land  in  any  State  of  the 
United  States.  It  is  also  expressly  provided  that  he 
shall  not  cut  or  carry  away  any  timber  from  said 
land,  unless  it  be  to  clear  it  for  cultivation,  under 
such  penalties  as  are  now  prescribed  for  trespassing 
upon  State  lands.  It  will  be  seen,  therefore,  that 
the  object  of  the  law  is  to  provide  homes  for  the 
homeless,  and  at  the  same  time  promote  the  actual, 
permanent  settlement  of  the  northern  portion  of  the 
State.  No  man  who  possesses  forty  acres  of  land 
either  in  Michigan  or  anywhere  else,  is  entitled  to 
the  benefits  of  the  act.  It  is  emphatically  a  law  for 
the  poor  man.  To  all  such  it  secures  a  home,  with 
out  money  and  without  price.  All  it  requires  of  him 
is  to  settle  upon  and  cultivate  it.  How  many  are 
there  in  Detroit  and  other  portions  of  the  State,  who 
will  avail  themselves  of  this  beneficent  republican 
measure  ?" 


CHAPTER  XII. 

The  Great  Western  Valley — Its  growth  and  population— Com 
parison  of  Atlantic  with  interior  cities — Relative  growth  of 
river  and  lake  cities  — Centre  of  population — Lake  tonnage 
— Progress  of  the  principal  centres  of  population. 

THE  following  chapter  on  the  population  and 
growth  of  the  Great  Western  Valley  is  taken  from 
De  Bow's  Review : — 

The  westward  movement  of  the  Caucasian  branch 
of  the  human  family  from  the  high  plains  of  Asia, 
first  over  Europe,  and  thence,  with  swelling  tide, 
pouring  its  multitudes  into  the  New  World,  is  the 
grandest  phenomenon  in  history.  What  American 
can  contemplate  its  results,  as  displayed  before 
him;  and  as  promised  in  the  proximate  future,  with 
out  an  emotion  of  pride  and  exultation  ? 

Our  nation  has  the  great  middle  region  of  the  best 
continent  of  the  world,  and  our  people  are  descend 
ants  from  the  most  vigorous  races.  Western  Europe, 
(228) 


Old  Mackinaw.  229 

over-peopled,  sends  us  her  most  energetic  sons  and 
daughters,  in  numbers  augmenting  with  each  suc 
ceeding  decade.  Asia  is  beginning  to  send  forth  a 
portion  of  her  surplus  population  to  our  shores. 
Though  of  inferior  race,  the  Eastern  Asiatics  are 
industrious  and  ingenious  cultivators  and  artisans. 
A  large  influx  of  these  laborers,  though  it  may 
lower  the  average  character  of  our  people,  will,  it  is 
hoped,  in  a  greater  degree  elevate  theirs ;  and  thus, 
while  adding  to  the  wealth  and  power  of  a  nation, 
do  something  toward  the  general  amelioration  of 
the  race.  While,  then,  we  contemplate  with  patri 
otic  pride  the  position  which,  as  a  nation,  we  hold 
in  the  world's  affairs,  may  we  not  indulge  in  pleasant 
anticipations  of  the  near  approach  of  the  time,  when 
the  commercial  and  social  heart  of  our  empire 
will  occupy  its  natural  place  as  the  heart  of  the 
continent,  near  the  centre  of  its  natural  capabili 
ties? 

New  York  has  long  been,  and  for  some  decades 
of  years  it  will  continue  to  be,  the  necessary  chief 
focal  point  of  our  nation.  But,  in  all  respects,  it  is 
uot  the  true  heart.  In  its  composition  and  dealings, 
it  is  almost  as  much  foreign  as  American.  Located 
on  our  eastern  border,  fronting  the  most  commercial 
and  the  richest  transatlantic  nations,  and  of  easy  ac- 
20 


230  Old  Mackinaw. 

cess  to  extensive  portions  of  our  Atlantic  coast,  it 
is  the  best  point  of  exchange  between  foreign  lands 
and  our  own,  and  for  the  cities  of  the  sea  border  of 
our  Republic.  As  Tyre,  Alexandria,  Genoa,  Venice, 
Lisbon,  and  Amsterdam,  in  their  best  days,  flour 
ished  as  factors  between  foreigners  and  the  people 
of  the  interior  regions,  whose  industries  were  repre 
sented  in  their  markets,  so  New  York  grows  rich  as 
the  chief  agent  in  the  exchange-commerce  between 
the  ocean  shores  and  the  interior  regions  of  our  con 
tinent.  As  our  numbers  have  swelled,  since  we  be 
came  a  nation,  from  three  and  a  half  millions 
to  thirty  millions,  so  New  York,  including  Brooklyn 
and  other  suburbs,  has  increased  in  population  and 
wealth  still  more  rapidly,  to  wit,  from  twenty -five 
thousand  to  more  than  one  million.  While  the  na 
tion  has  increased  less  than  tenfold,  New  York  has 
grown  more  than  four  times  tenfold.  In  1790  the 
city  of  New  York  contained  thirty-three  thousand, 
and  the  State  of  New  York  three  hundred  and  forty 
thousand — the  city  having  less  than  one-tenth  of  the 
people  of  the  State. 

Believing  that  this  most  prosperous  of  the  Atlan 
tic  cities  will  be  eclipsed  in  its  greatness  and  glory 
by  one  or  more  of  the  interior  cities  of  the  great 
plain,  Ave  have  selected  it  as  the  champion  of  the 


Old  Mackinaw.  231 

Atlantic  border,  to  bold  up  its  progress  during  the 
thirty  years  from  1830  to  I860,  the  most  prosperous 
years  of  its  existence,  in  comparison  with  the  pro 
gress,  during  the  same  period,  of  the  aggregate  cities 
and  towns  of  the  plain.  The  result  of  our  investi 
gation,  the  summing  up,  will  be  found  in  the  follow 
ing  table.  It  will  be  seen  that  many  of  the  items 
are  put  down  in  round  numbers — no  document  be 
ing  accessible  or  in  existence  to  furnish  the  exact 
number  of  many  of  the  new  towns,  in  1830.  The 
estimate  for  1860  may,  in  some  instances,  be  above 
the  figures  which  the  census  will  furnish,  but  the 
over-estimate  for  1830  is  believed  to  be  in  a  larger 
proportion  to  actual  numbers  at  that  time.  Making 
a  liberal  allowance  for  errors,  the  result  of  the  ag 
gregate  cannot  be  materially  varied  from  that  at 
•which  our  figures  bring  us : 

1830.  1860  Est.  Increase. 

New  York,  including  Brook 
lyn  and  other  suburbs  ....  234,438 ....  1,170,000. .  5  times. 

Cities  and  chief  towns  of  the 
great  plain 270,094 ....  2,706,300 . .  10  "  nearly 

Leaving  out  the  exterior  cities  of  the  plain,  to 
wit,  New  Orleans,  Mobile,  Galveston,  Quebec  and 
Montreal,  the  comparison  between  New  York  and 


232  Old  Mackinaw. 

suburbs,  and  the  interior  cities  of  the  plain  will  be 
shown  by  the  following  figures : 

1830.  ISGOEst.  Increase. 

New  York  and  accessories ....  234,448 ....  1,170,000 ....  5  fold 
Interior  cities  and  town  of 

the  plain 172,000 2,346,000. .  .13  " 

The  five  largest  cities  of  the  Atlantic  border  ex 
hibit  a  growth,  as  compared  with  the  five  largest 
cities  of  the  plain,  as  follows : 

1830.  1860£st. 

New  York  and  dependencies 235,000 1,170,000 

Philadelphia  170,000 700,000 

Baltimore  83,000 250,000 

Boston  80,000     , .    200,000 

Charleston  "  31,000 60,000 

599,000....  2,380,000 

Cincinnati  and  suburbs 28,000 250,000 

New  Orleans         "         47,000 170,000 

St.Louis  "         6,000....  170,000 

Chicago  "         100....  150,000 

Pittsburg  "         17,000....  145,000 


98,000         885,000 

This  table  shows  the  five  Atlantic  cities  to 
have  quadrupled,  and  the  five  cities  of  the  interior 
plain  have  increased  nine  times.  Is  this  relative 
rate  of  increase  of  the  exterior  and  interior  cities 
to  be  changed,  and,  if  it  is  to  be  changed,  when  is 


Old  Mackinaw.  233 

the  change  to  commence  ?  We  can  foresee  no  cause 
adequate  to  that  effect,  or  tending  toward  it.  On 
the  contrary,  it  seems  to  us  certain  as  any  future 
event,  that  the  rate  of  growth  of  the  interior  cities, 
compared  with  those  on  the  Atlantic  border,will  be 
increased. 

The  proportion  which  their  present  numbers  bear 
to  the  numbers  of  the  rural  population  does  not  ex 
ceed  one  to  six,  whereas  the  urban  population  of  the 
Atlantic  border  is  not  less  than  one  to  three  of  the 
rural.  This  disproportion  of  city  and  rural  popula 
tion  will  hereafter  change  more  rapidly  in  favor  of 
the  interior  than  the  Atlantic  cities,  because  of  the 
greater  fertility  of  soil  producing  more  food  from 
an  equal  amount  of  labor ;  and  also,  by  reason  of  the 
more  rapid  growth  of  the  general  population,  of 
which  an  increasing  proportion  will  prefer  city  to 
country  life.  Will  it  not  be  so  ?  Will  not  the  gene 
ral  increase  of  population  be  greater  in  the  interior 
States?  Will  not  the  productions  of  the  soil  in 
crease  faster  ?  And  can  there  be  a  doubt  that  the 
large  disproportion  in  the  distribution  of  the  popu 
lation  between  city  and  country,  in  the  interior,  will 
be  lessened,  so  that,  instead  of  being,  as  now,  only 
one  to  five  or  six,  they  will  rapidly  approach  the 
proportion  of  one  to  two  or  three  ?  Here,  then,  are 
20* 


Old  Mackinaw. 

,the  sources  of  superior  increase   so  obviously  true, 
as  to  need  only  to  be  stated  to  insure  conviction. 

Let  us  now  compare  the  growth,  for  the  thirty 
years  since  1830,  of  the  five  largest  Atlantic  cities, 
with  the  five  largest  cities  of  the  plain,  and,  by  its 
side,  extend  the  comparison  to  10,  15,  and  20  of  the 
largest  city  of  each  section  : 


1830.  I860  Est. 

New  York  and  accessories 235,000 1,170,000 

Philadelphia  170,000....    700,000 

Baltimore  "         83,000 250,000 

Charleston  "         31,000 ....      60,000 

599,000        2,380,000 
Increase  4  times. 


New  Orleans 
St.  Louis 
Chicago 
Pittsburg 


1830. 

I860  Est. 

28,000. 

...250,000 

47,000. 

...270,000 

6,000. 

...170,000 

100, 

..150.000 

.17,000....  145,000 

98,000      2,885,000 
Increase  9  times. 


Let  us  now  compare  the  ten  largest  of  each  sec 
tion. 


Old  Mackinaw. 


235 


Atlantic. 

1830.  1860  Est. 

The  aggregate  of  the  five  largest 

as    above 579,000 2,370,000 

Providence 17,000 55,000 

Lowell 6,500....  40,000 

Washington 19,000. . . .  60,000 

Albany 24,000 ....  65,000 

Richmond 16,000....  35,000 

661,000        2,625,000 
Increase  4  times. 

Interior. 

1839.  I860  Est. 

Aggregate  as  above 98,000 885,000 

Buffalo 9,000 ....  100,000 

Louisville 10,500....   80,000 

Milwaukee 50. ...   75,000 

Detroit 2,000. . . .   80,000 

Cleveland 1,000....   70,000 


120,550     1,290,000 
Increase  10  7-10. 

Aggregate  of  the  ten,  with  five  more  of  each  sec 
tion  added,  added,  to  wit : 

1830. 

Aggregate  as  above 661,000 

Troy 11,500. . . . 

Portland 12,500. . . . 

Salem 14,000.... 

New  Haven 10,000 

Savannah , 7,500 


St. 

2,625,000 
35,000 
30,000 
25,000 
30,000 
15,500 

716,500        2,760.500 
Increase  3  8-10  times. 


236  Old  Mackinaw. 

1830.  1860  Est. 

Aggregate  as  above 120,550 1,290,000 

Toronto 1,700....      65,000 

Rochester 9,000 50,000 

Mobile 3,000. . . .      30,000 

Memphis 1,500 25,000 

Hamilton 1,500....      25,000 

137,000....  1,485,000 
Increase  16  7-10  times. 

Aggregate  of  the  fifteen,  with  five  more  added  in 
each  section : 

1830.  I860  Est. 

Aggregate  as  above 716,500 2,760,500 

Springfield,  Mass 7,000....      24,000 

Worcester,      "      4,500 24,000 

Bangor,  Me 3,000....      23,000 

Patterson,  N.  J 5,000....      22,000 

Manchester,  N.  H 50....      22,000 


736,500....  2,875,500 
Increase  3  8-10  times. 

1830.  I860  Est. 

Aggregate  as  above 137,250. . . .  1,485,000 

Dayton 3,000....      24,000 

Indianapolis 1,500....       22,000 

Toledo 30. ...      20,000 

Oswego 3,200 20,000 

Quincy 1,500....      20,000 

149,700....  1,591,000 
Increase  10  6-10  times. 

From  the  above  tables,  we  see  that  the  city  of 


Old  Mackinaw.  237 

New  York,  with  its  neighboring  dependencies,  will 
have  made  in  growth  in  thirty  years,  between  1830 
and  1860,  increasing  its  population  5  times.  During 
the  same  period, 

The  5  largest  Atlantic  cities  and  suburbs,  in 
cluding  New  York,  increased 4  1-10  times, 

The  10  largest  Atlantic  cities  and  suburbs,  in 
cluding  New  York,  increased 4 

The  15  largest  Atlantic  cities  and  suburbs,  in 
cluding  New  York,  increased 3  8-10  " 

The  20  largest  Atlantic  cities  and  suburbs,  in 
cluding  New  York,  increased 3  8-10  " 

And  that  the  5  largest  cities  of  the  great  plain, 

during  the  same  period,  increased 9  " 

And  the  10  largest  cities  of  the  great  plain, 

during  the  same  period,  increased 107-10  " 

And  the  15  largest  cities  of  the  great  plain, 

during  the  same  period,  increased 10  7-10  " 

And  the  20  largest  cities  of  the  great  plain, 

during  the  same  period,  increased 10  6-10       " 

If  the  number  of  cities  and  towns  of  each  section 
were  increased  to  twenty-five,  thirty,  and  thirty-five 
of  each  section,  the  disparity  would  increase  in  favor 
of  the  interior  cities,  most  of  these  to  be  brought 
into  comparison,  having  come  into  existence  since 
1830. 

We  commend  the  comparison  between  the  old 
and  the  new  cities  so  far  back  as  1830,  to  give  the 


238  Old  Mackinaw. 

former  a  better  chance  for  a  fair  showing.  If  a  later 
census  should  be  chosen  for  a  starting  point,  the 
advantages  would  be  more  decidedly  with  the  inte 
rior  cities. 

In  the  article  on  the  great  plain,  in  the  May  num 
ber  of  this  Review,  we  gave  prominence  to  the  two 
great  external  gateways  of  commerce  offered  to  its 
people  in  their  intercourse  with  the  rest  of  the 
world  :  that  is  to  say,  the  Mississippi  river  entrance 
into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  the  outlet  of  the  lakes 
through  St.  Lawrence  and  Hudson  rivers.  These 
constitute  the  present  great  routes  of  commerce  of 
the  people  of  the  plain,  and  draw  to  the  cities  on 
the  borders  of  the  great  lakes  and  rivers  the  trade 
of  the  surrounding  country.  Between  the  cities  of 
the  great  rivers  and  lakes  there  has  of  late  sprung 
up  a  friendly  rivalry,  each  having  some  peculiar  ad 
vantages,  and  all,  in  some  degree,  drawing  business 
into  their  laps  for  the  benefit  of  their  rivals.  That 
is  to  say :  river  cities  gather  in  productions  from 
the  surrounding  districts  which  seek  an  eastern  mar 
ket  through  lake  harbors ;  and  lake  cities  perform 
the  same  office  for  the  chief  river  cities.  Each  year 
increases,  to  a  marked  extent,  the  intercourse  which 
these  two  classes  of  cities  hold  with  each  other ;  and 
it  may  be  safely  anticipated  that  no  long  period  will 


Old  Mackinaw.  239 

elapse  before  this  intercourse  will  become  more  im 
portant  to  them  than  all  their  commerce  with  the 
world  beside. 

In  comparing  the  interior  cities  of  the  great 
plain,  situated  on  the  navigable  rivers,  with  those 
located  on  the  borders  of  the  lakes,  two  considera 
tions  bearing  on  their  relative  growth  should  be 
kept  in  view.  The  river  cities  were  of  earlier 
growth,  the  settement  from  the  Atlantic  States  hav 
ing  taken  the  Ohio  river  as  the  high-road  to  their 
new  homes,  many  years  before  the  upper  lakes 
were  resorted  to  as  a  channel  of  active  emigration. 

This  gave  an  earlier  development  to  country  bor 
dering  the  central  rivers,  the  Ohio,  Wabash,  Illinois, 
and  Lower  Missouri.  The  States  of  Kentucky  and 
Tennessee,  also,  had  been  pretty  well  settled,  in  their 
more  inviting  portions,  before  any  considerable  in 
road  had  been  made  on  the  wilderness  bordering  011 
the  upper  lakes.  Owing  to  these  and  other  circum 
stances,  the  river  cities,  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  Louis 
ville,  and  others  of  less  note,  were  well  advanced  in 
growth,  before  the  towns  on  the  lakes  had  begun,  in 
any  considerable  degree,  to  be  developed.  Another 
advantage  the  river  cities  possessed  in  their  early 
stage,  and  which  they  still  hold ;  that  of  manufactur 
ing  for  the  planting  States  bordering  the  great  rivers. 


240  Old  Mackinaw. 

For  many  years,  in  a  great  variety  of  articles  of  ne 
cessity,  they  possessed  almost  a  monopoly  of  this 
business.  Of  late,  transportation  has  become  so 
cheap,  that  the  planters  avail  themselves  of  a  greater 
range  of  choice  for  the  purchase  of  manufactured  ar 
ticles,  and  the  lake  cities  have  commenced  a  direct 
trade  with  the  plantation  States,  which  will  doubt 
less  increase  with  the  usual  rapidity  of  industrial 
development  in  the  fertile  West. 

If  we  claim  for  the  upper  lake  country  some  supe 
riority  of  climate  for  city  growth  over  the  great  river 
region,  we  do  not  doubt  that  the  future  will  justify 
the  claim.  More  labor  will  be  performed  for  the 
same  compensation,  in  a  cool,  bracing  atmosphere, 
such  as  distinguishes  the  upper  lake  region,  than  on 
the  more  sultry  banks  of  the  central  affluents  of  the 
Mississippi,  where  are  the  best  positions  for  the 
chief  river  cities. 

Refraining  from  further  comment,  let  us  bring  the 
actual  development  of  the  interior  cities— on  the 
navigable  rivers  and  on  the  lakes — into  juxtaposition 
for  easy  comparison.  As  our  comparison  of  Atlantic 
cities  with  the  cities  of  the  plain  has  been  made  for 
thirty  years,  from  1830  to  1860,  we  continue  it  here 
for  the  same  period,  between  the  river  cities  and  lake 
cities.  We  select  twenty  cities,  now  the  largest,  of 


Old  Mackinaw.  241 

each  region,  and  put  down  the  population  in  round 
numbers  as  nearly  accurate  as  practicable.  That  for 
1860,  is  of  course,  an  estimate  only,  but  it  is  cer 
tainly  near  enough  to  the  truth  to  illustrate  the 
growth,  positive  and  comparative,  of  our  interior 
cities. 

This  table  exhibits  a  growth  of  the  interior  cities 
on  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Mississippi  and  its 
affluents,  which  brings  their  population,  in  1870,  up 
to  11  4-10  that  of  1830.  This  is,  unquestionably, 
much  beyond  the  expectation  of  their  most  sanguine 
inhabitants,  at  the  commencement  of  that  period,  be 
ing  three  times  that  of  the  chief  cities  of  the  Atlantic 
border.  Yet  even  this  rapid  development  is  seen, 
by  our  figures,  to  fall  far  behind  that  which  has 
characterized  the  cities  created  by  lake  commerce 
during  the  same  period. 

Interior  River  Cities  1830.  1860. 

Cincinnati  and  dependencies 25,500 250,000 

Pittsburg,  "  15,500 155,000 

St.  Louis,  6,000 180,000 

Louisville,  11,000 80,000 

Memphis,  "  2,500 25,000 

Wheeling,  "  6,000 20,000 

New  Albany  1,500 20,000 

Quincy,  1,000 19,000 

Peoria,  800 18,000 

Galena,  2,000 18,500 

Keoknk,  50 16,000 

21 


242 


Old  Mackinaw. 


Dubuque,                                 100 16,000 

Nashville,  "           6,000 15,000 

St.  Paul,                                  15,000 

Madison,  Tnd.,  "            2,500 13,000 

Burlington,  Ind.,  "            12,000 

La  Fayette,  Ind.  "            300 13,000 

Hock  Island,  "            8,000 

Jeffersonville,  "            800 8,000 

81,550  914,000 

Lake  Cities.  1830.  1860. 

Chicago  and  dependencies 100 150,000 

Buffalo,  "       8,663.., -100,000 

Detroit,  "       2,222 80,000 

Milwaukee,  •"       50 75,000 

Cleveland,  "       1,047.' 70,000 

Toronto,  C.  W.  '•       1,667 65,000 

Kochester,  "       9,269 50,000 

Hamilton,  C.  W.  "       5,500 25.000 

Kingston,  C.  W.  "       2,500 20,500 

Oswego,  "       3,200 20,500 

Toledo,  "       30 20,000 

Sandusky  City,  "       350 14,000 

Erie,  "       1,000 10,000 

G.  Rapids,  Mich.,  "       300 10,000 

Kenosha,  "       10,000 

Eacine,  "       10,000 

St.  Catharine's,C. W.  "       400 10,000 

Waukegan,  "       8,000 

Port  Huron,  "       100 8,000 

FonduLac,  "       20: 8,000 


32,408 


764,000 


Old  Mackinaw.  243 

These,  according  to  the  table,  exhibit  a  growth 
which  makes  them,  in  1860,  more  than  twenty-three 
times  as  populous  as  they  were  in  1830.  This  is 
double  the  progress  of  the  river  cities,  and  more  than 
five  times  that  of  the  cities  of  the  Atlantic  coast.  In 
the  face  of  these  facts,  how  can  intelligent  men  con 
tinue  to  hold  the  opinion  that  New  York  is  to  con 
tinue  long  to  be,  as  now,  the  focal  point  of  North 
American  commerce  and  influence  ?  Yet  well  in 
formed  men  do  continue  to  express  the  opinion  that 
New  York  will  eve?-  hold  the  position  of  the  chief 
city  of  the  continent.  Every  one  at  all  familiar  with 
the  location  and  movement  of  our  population,  knows 
that  the  central  point  of  its  numbers  is  moving  in  a 
constant  and  almost  unvarying  direction  west  by 
north.  An  able  investigator,  now  Professor  of  Law 
in  the  University  of  Michigan,  Thomas  M.  Cooley, 
five  years  ago,  entered  into  an  elaborate  calculation 
to  ascertain  where  the  centre  of  population  of  the 
United  States  and  Canadas  was,  at  that  time.  The 
result  showed  it  to  be  very  near  Pittsburg.  It  is 
generally  conceded  that  it  travels  in  a  direction  about 
west  by  north,  at  a  rate  averaging  not  less  than  seven 
miles  a  year.  In  1860,  it  will  have  crossed  the  Ohio 
River,  and  commenced  its  march  through  the  State 
of  Ohio.  As  our  internal  commerce  is  more  than 


244  Old  Mackinaw. 

ten  times  as  great  as  our  foreign  commerce,  and 
is  increasing  more  rapidly,  it  is  plain  that  it  will 
have  the  chief  agency  in  building  the  future  and  per 
manent  capital  city  of  the  continent.  If  the  centre 
of  population  were,  likewise  the  centre  of  wealth 
and  industrial  power,  other  things  being  equal,  it 
would  be  the  position  of  the  chief  city,  as  it  would 
be  the  most  convenient  place  of  exchange  for  dealers 
from  all  quarters  of  the  country.  But  this  centre 
of  wealth  and  industrial  power  does  not  keep  up,  in 
its  western  movement,  with  the  centre  of  population  ! 
nor,  if  its  movement  were  coincident,  would  it  be  at 
or  near  the  right  point  for  the  concentration  of  our 
domestic  and  foreign  trade,  while  traversing  the  in 
terior  of  Ohio.  If  we  suppose  our  foreign  commerce 
equal  to  one  fifteenth  of  the  domestic,  we  should  add 
to  the  thirty- three  millions  of  the  States  and  Canadas, 
upward  of  two  millions  of  foreigners,  to  represent 
our  foreign  commerce.  These  should  be  thrown 
into  the  scale  rep  resented  by  New  York.  This,  with 
the  larger  proportion  to  population  of  industrial 
power  remaining  in  the  old  States,  would  render  it 
certain  that  the  centre  of  industrial  power  of  our 
nation  has  not  traveled  westward  so  far  as  to  endan 
ger,  for  the  present,  the  supremacy  of  the  cities  cen 
tral  to  the  commerce  of  our  Atlantic  coast.  Until 


Old  Mackinaw.  245 

the  centre  of  industrial  power  approaches  a  good 
harbor  on  the  lakes,  New  York  will  continue  the 
best  located  city  of  the  continent  for  the  great  ope 
rations  of  its  commerce.  That  the  centre  of  wealth 
and  consequent  industrial  power  is  moving  westward 
at  a  rate  not  materially  slower  than  the  centre  of 
population,  might  be  easily  proved;  but,  as  those  who 
read  this  article  with  interest  must  be  cognizant  of 
the  great  flow  of  capital  from  the  old  world  and  the 
old  States  to  the  New  States,  and  the  rapid  increase 
of  capital  on  the  fertile  soil  of  the  new  States,  no 
special  proof  seems  to  us  to  be  called  for.  The  cen 
tre  of  power,  numerical,  political,  economical,  and 
social,  is  then,  indubitably,  on  its  steady  march  from 
the  Atlantic  border  toward  the  interior  of  the  conti 
nent.  That  it  will  find  a  resting  place  somewhere, 
in  its  broad  interior  plain,  seems  as  inevitable  as  the 
continued  movement  of  the  earth  on  its  axis.  The 
figures  we  have  submitted  of  the  growth  of  the  prin 
cipal  lake  cities  plainly  show  great  power  in  lake 
commerce,  so  great  as  to  carry  conviction  to  our 
mind  that  the  principal  city  of  the  continent  will 
find  its  proper  home  and  resting-place  on  the  lake 
border,  and  become  the  most  populous  capital  of  the 
earth.  A  full  knowledge  of  the  geography  of  North 
America  will  tend  to  confirm  this  conviction  in  the 
21* 


246  Old    Mackinaw. 

mind  of  the  fair  inquirer.  The  lakes  penetrate  the 
continent  to  its  productive  centre.  They  afford, 
during  eight  or  nine  months  of  the  year,  pleasant  and 
safe  navigation  for  steam-propelled  vessels.  Their 
waters  are  pure  and  beautifully  transparent,  and  the 
air  which  passes  over  them  exceedingly  invigorating 
to  the  human  system.  Their  borders  are  replete 
with  materials  for  the  exercise  of  human  industry 
and  skill.  The  soil  is  fertile  and  very  productive 
in  grains  and  grasses.  Coal  in  exhaustless  abund 
ance  crops  out  on  or  near  their  waters,  to  the  extent  of 
nearly  one  thousand  miles  of  coast.  The  richest 
mines  of  iron  and  copper,  convenient  to  water  trans 
port,  exist,  in  aggregate  amount,  beyond  the  power 
of  calculation.  Stone  of  lime,  granite,  sand,  and 
various  other  kinds  suitable  for  the  architect  and  the 
artist,  are  found  almost  everywhere  convenient  to 
navigation.  Gypsum  of  the  best  quality  crops  out  on 
the  shores  of  three  of  the  great  lakes,  and  salt  springs 
of  great  strength  are  worked  to  advantage,  near 
lakes  Ontario  and  Michigan.  Timber  trees  in  great 
variety  and  of  valuable  sorts,  give  a  rich  border  to 
the  shores  for  thousands  of  miles.  Of  these,  the 
white  oak,  burr  oak,  white  pine,  white  wood  or  tulip 
tree,  white  ash,  hickory  aid  black  walnut,  are  the 
most  valuable.  They  are  of  noble  dimensions,  and 


Old  Mackinaw.  247 

clothe  millions  of  acres  with  their  rich  foliage.  No 
where  else  on  the  continent  are  to  be  seen  such 
abundance  of  magnificent  oak,  and  the  immense 
groves  of  white  pine  are  not  excelled.  Heretofore 
little  esteemed,  the  great  tracts  of  timber  convenient 
to  lake  navigation  and  to  the  wide  treeless  prairies 
of  the  plain,  are  destined  soon  to  take  an  important 
place  in  the  commercial  operations  of  the  interior. 
Already,  oak  timber,  for  ship-building  and  other 
purposes,  finds  a  profitable  market  In  New  York  and 
Boston.  The  great  Eussian  steamship  "  General 
Admiral,''  was  built  in  part  from  the  timber  of  the 
lake  border.  A  great  trade  is  growing  up,  based  on 
the  products  of  the  forest.  Whitewood  (Dirioden- 
dron  tulipifera)  oak  staves,  black  and  white  walnut 
plank,  and  other  indigenous  timber,  are  shipped,  not 
only  to  the  Atlantic  cities,  but  to  foreign  ports.  The 
lumber  yards  of  Albany,  New  York,  Philadelphia, 
as  well  as  those  of  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  Detroit, 
Toledo,  Cleveland  and  Buffalo,  receive  large  sup 
plies  from  the  pineries  bordering  the  great  lakes. 
Cincinnati  and  other  Ohio  river  cities,  receive  an  in 
creasing  proportion  of  pine  lumber  from  the  same 
source.  These  great  waters  are  also,  as  is  well  known, 
stocked  with  fish  in  great  variety,  whose  fine  gas 
tronomic  qualities  have  a  world-wide  reputation. 


248  Old  Mackinaw. 

As  before  stated,  these  lakes  penetrate  the  conti 
nent  toward  the  northwest  as  far  as  its  productive 
centre.  They  now  have  unobstructed  connection 
with  the  Atlantic  vessels  of  nine  feet  draft  and  three 
hundred  tons  burden,  by  the  aid  of  sixty-three  miles 
of  canals  overcoming  the  falls  of  the  St.  Mary,  Nia 
gara  and  St.  Lawrence  Eivers,  with  a  lockage  of  less 
than  six  hundred  feet.  By  enlarging  some  of  the  locks 
and  deepening  the  canals,  at  a  cost  of  a  very  few  mil 
lions,  navigation  for  propellers  of  from  one  thousand 
to  two  thousand  tons  may  be  secured  with  the  whole 
world  of  waters.  The  cost  is  much  within  the  power 
of  the  Canadas  and  the  States  bordering  the  lakes, 
and  will  be  but  a  light  matter  to  these  communities 
when,  within  the  next  fifteen  years,  they  shall  have 
doubled  their  population  and  trebled  their  wealth. 
The  increase  of  the  commerce  of  the  lakes,  during 
the  last  fifteen  years,  is  believed  to  be  beyond  any 
example  furnished  by  the  history  of  navigation.  A 
proportionate  increase  the  next  fifteen  years,  would 
give  for  the  yearly  value  of  its  transported  articles, 
thousands  of  millions.  According  to  the  best  authori 
ties  it  is  now  over  four  hundred  millions.  In  1855,  that 
portion  of  the  tonnage  belonging  to  the  United  States 
was  one  fifteenth  of  the  entire  tonnage  of  the  Union. 
During  the  same  year  the  clearances  of  vessels  from 


Old  Mackinaw.  249 

ports  of  the  United  States  to  the  Canadas,  and  the 
entrance  of  vessels  from  the  Canadas  to  ports  of  the 
United  States,  as  exhibited  in  the  following  table, 
show  a  greater  amount  of  tonnage  entered  and  cleared 
than  between  the  United  States  and  any  other  foreign 
country  : 

Clearances  from  ports  in  the  United  States  to  ports 
in  Canada  in  1855  : 

Number  of  American  vessels    -  2,369 

Canadian       "  6,638 

Whole  number  9,067 

Tonnage  American  -     890,017 

"       Canadian  -  903,502 

Total  cleared  from  the  States,  -  -  1,793,519 

The  registered  tonnage  of  all  the  States,  the  same 
year,  was  2,676,864;  and  the  registered  and  enrolled 
together,  5,212,000. 

The  value  of  lake  tonnage  was,  in  1855,  $14,835,- 
000.  The  total  value  of  the  commerce  of  the  lakes, 
the  same  year,  was  estimated,  by  high  authority,  (in 
cluding  exports  and  imports)  at  twelve  hundred  and 
sixteen  millions  ($1,216,000,000.)  This  seems  to  us 
an  exaggerated  estimate,  though  based  principally 
on  official  reports  of  collectors  of  customs.  Eight 


250  Old  Mackinaw. 

hundred  millions  would,  probably,  be  near  to  the 
true  amount.  It  will  surprise  many  persons  to  learn 
that  the  trade  between  the  United  States  and  Canadas, 
carried  on  chiefly  by  the  lakes  and  their  connecting 
waters,  ranks  third  in  value  and  first  in  tonnage,  in 
the  table  of  our  foreign  commerce  ;  being,  in  value, 
only  below  that  of  England  and  the  French  Empire, 
and  in  tonnage  above  the  British  Empire. 

American  goods  to  Canada       -  $9,950,764 

Foreign  goods  8,769,580 

$18,720,344: 
Canadian  goods  to  the  States,    -         -         12,182,314 


$30,902,658 

We  here  append  a  table  showing  the  progress, 
from  decade  to  decade,  of  the  principal  centres  of 
population  of  the  plain  since  1820.  It  has  been  made 
with  all  the  accuracy  which  our  sources  of  informa 
tion  enable  us  to  attain.  There  are  in  it,  no  doubt, 
many  errors,  but  it  will  be  found,  in  the  main,  and 
for  general  argument,  substantially  correct.  For 
future  reference,  it  will  be  valuable  to  persons  who 
take  an  interest  in  the  development  of  our  new  ur 
ban  communities.  Included  in  each  city  are  its  out- 


Old  Mackinaw. 


251 


lying  dependencies — such  as  Newport  and  Coving- 
ton  with  Cincinnati,  and  Lafayette  with  New  Or 
leans. 


1830. 

1840. 

1850. 

I860. 

New  Orleans  

..  46,310 

90,000 

130,565 

180,000 

..   21,831 

47,000 

130,739 

250,000 

St  Louis  

...   5,852 

16,469 

82,000 

180,000 

Chicago  

...      100 

4,650 

29,963 

150,000 

...12,568 

25,000 

71,595 

125,000 

Buffalo  

.  .     8,653 

18,213 

42,265 

100,000 

Montreal  

...30,000 

40,000 

55,000 

90,000 

Louisville  

...10,341 

21,210 

43,194 

89,000 

Detroit  

...   2,222 

9,162 

21,019 

80,000 

Milwaukee  

50 

1,730 

20,061 

75,000 

Cleveland  

...   1,047 

6,071 

19,377 

70,000 

Toronto  

...  1,677 

13,500 

27,500 

70,000 

Rochester  

...  9,269 

20,191 

36,409 

50,000 

Quebec  

...26,250 

32,500 

41,200 

55,000 

Columbus,  0  

...   2,450 

6,671 

17,882 

40,000 

Mobile  

...   3,194 

12,672 

20,515 

35,000 

Hamilton,  C.  W. 

...   1.500 

4,200 

13,000 

25,000 

Memphis  

.  ..    1,500 

3,500 

8,839 

25,000 

Nashville  

.  .  .   5,566 

6,929 

10,478 

25;000 

Dayton  

...   2,954 

6,067 

10,977 

25,000 

Indianapolis  

...   1,000 

2,692 

8,034 

22,000 

Wheeling,  Va  

...   5,221 

7,885 

11,435 

20,000 

Kingston,  C.  W. 

...   2,500 

5,500 

10,000 

20,000 

Lockport,  N.  Y.  . 

...   3,800 

6,500 

12,323 

20,000 

Oswego  

...   3,200 

4,665 

12,205 

20,000 

Toledo  

30 

1,229 

3,829 

20,000 

Zanesville  

...  3,000 

6,000 

12,355 

20,000 

est. 

est, 

New  Albany  

...   1,500 

4,000 

9,895 

20,000 

est. 

est. 

252 


Old  Mackinaw. 


1830. 

1840. 

1850. 

I860. 

Peoria  

800 

2,000 

5,095 

20,000 

est. 

est. 

1,000 

3,000 

6,902 

20,000 

Galena  

2,000 

4,000 

6,004 

20,000 

Dubuque  

200 

1,500 

3,108 

16,000 

Keokuk  

1,000 

2,478 

16,000 

Davenport  

500 

2,478 

12,000 

Burlington,  la  

1,000 

1,848 

12,000 

Columbus,  Ga  

1,000 

4,000 

5,052 

10,000 

Alton,  111  

250 

2,500 

3,585 

10,000 

Steubenville  

2,964 

5,203 

6,140 

9,000 

Chillicothc  

2,840 

3,977 

7,100 

9,000 

Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

300 

1,500 

3,148 

9,000 

Huntsville.   Ala  

1,200 

1,500 

2,863 

6,000 

Adrian,  Mich  

200 

1,800 

3,006 

9,000 

Ann  Arbor  

200 

2,000 

4,868 

9,000 

Sandusky  City  

350 

2,000 

8,500 

13,000 

Fort  Wayne,  la  

100 

1,600 

4,282 

13,000 

Madison,  la  

2,500 

4,500 

8,508 

13,000 

St.  Paul  

.  .  . 

1,012 

15,000 

Lafavette,  la  

200 

2,000 

6,129 

13,000 

Mays  ville,  Ky  

1,800 

2,741 

4,256 

9,000 

Terre  Haute,  la  

600 

2,000 

4,900 

9,000 

Evansville,  la  

300 

1,500 

3,235 

9,000 

Jefferson  ville,  la  

500 

2,000 

3,487 

9,000 

Portsmouth,  Ohio..  .  . 

1,000 

2,000 

4,011 

9,000 

Marietta,  0  

1,200 

1,815 

5,254 

9,000 

Springfield,  111  

800 

2,579 

4,553 

9,000 

Rock  Island  City  

400 

1,711 

8,000 

Chattanooga,  Ten  

500 

1,000 

3,500 

8,000 

By  town,  or           j 
Ottawa,  C.  W.    j    ' 

500 

2,000 

5,000 

10,000 

London,  C.  W  

500 

2,000 

5,000 

10,000 

St.  Catherines,  do.... 

200 

soa 

4,000 

10,000 

Galveston,  Texas  

1,200 

2,000 

4,177 

10,000 

Old  Mackinaw. 


253 


1S30. 

Houston,       " 

Erie,  Pa 1,260 

Lexington,  Ky 4,500 

Ogdensburg 1,500 

Natchez,  Miss 2,000 

Three  Rivers,  0.  E.          800 

Racine,  Wis 

Waukesha 

Marshall,  Mich 200 

Pontiac,      "    150 

P't  Huron  "   100 

Jackson       "   150 

Kalamazoo "   150 

Mineral  Pt,,  Wis 500 

Kenosha          " 

Pon  du  Lac,     " 

Janesville         " 

Beloit  " 

Madison  " 

Elgin  " 

Oshkosh,          " 

Monroe.  Mich.. 400 

Lansing    " 

Columbus,  Miss 800 

Jacksonville,  111 800 

Waukegan        " 

Lasalle  " 50 

Joliet 

Jefferson  City,  Mo...   1,000 

St.  Joseph        " 

Independence  "  

Iowa  City,  Iowa 

Muscatine     "     

Springfield,  Ohio 1,080 

Newark  "    1,000 

22 


1840. 

1850. 

I860. 

500 

3,000 

10,000 

3,500 

5,858 

10,000 

6,997 

9,180 

10,000 

3,000 

6,500 

10,000 

3,001. 

4,434 

9,000 

2,000 

4,000 

8,000 

1,000 

5,111 

9,000 

200 

2,313 

8,000 

1,200 

2,822 

8,000 

1,300 

2,820 

8,000 

400 

2,313 

8,000 

1,000 

3,051 

6,000 

900 

2,363 

6,000 

800 

2,584 

6,000 

500 

3,055 

8,000 

1,000 

3,451 

6,000 

1,200 

2,782 

7,000 

500 

2,732 

6,000 

100 

1,500 

7,000 

100 

2,359 

5,000 

.  .  . 

2,500 

6,000 

2,000 

2,813 

5,000 

100 

1,229 

5,000 

1,500 

2,611 

5,000 

1,500 

2,745 

5,000 

800 

2,949 

6,000 

1,000 

3,201 

6,000 

1,000 

2,659 

6,000 

2,000 

3,000 

5,000 

1,000 

2,557 

5,000 

500 

3,500 

6,000 

.  .  . 

1,582 

5,000 

400 

2,540 

6,000 

2,094 

5,108 

8,000 

2,705 

3,654 

7,000 

254 


Old  Mackinaw. 


Hamilton 
Lancaster 


1830. 

••'  800 

1840. 

1,409 

1850. 

3,210 

I860. 

7,000 

<  1,000 

2,120 

3,483 

5,000 

'        800 

1  664 

3  266 

6000 

'  800 

2,363 

3,711 

7,000 

400 

728 
1  070 

2,718 
3414 

7,000 
6000 

600 

1  300 

2  697 

5000 

;,  la  600 

500 

2,000 
1000 

3,487 
1  443 

6,000 
5000 

nn..    1,800 

2,076 

6,000 

Tiffin 

Urbana  ' 

Massillon  ' 
Lawrenceburg 
Richmond,  la 


The  preceding  table  is  instructive,  showing,  as  it 
does,  the  steady  and  rapidly  increasing  tendency  of 
the  people  of  the  plain  to  seek  a  home  in  cities  and 
villages,  notwithstanding  the  great  temptation  which 
fertile,  cheap,  and  easily -improved  lands  hold  out  to 
become  tillers  of  the  soil  and  growers  of  cattle.  Stock 
farming  is  largely  remunerative,  but  our  western 
people — wild  and  uncultivated  as  they  are  supposed 
to  be  by  those  unacquainted  with  their  true  charac 
ter — prefer  homes  where  the  advantages  of  education 
and  social  intercourse  is  a  constant  enjoyment.  No 
where  in  the  world  are  educational  establishments 
on  a  better  footing  or  more  universally  accessible 
than  in  some  of  the  new  States  of  the  centre,  as  in 
Ohio,  Michigan,  Wisconsin  and  other  States." 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Michigan  Agricultural  Reports  for  1854 — Professor  Thomas's 
Report — Report  of  J.  S.  Dixon — Products  of  States — Climate 
— Army  Meteorological  Reports. 

FROM  the  Agricultural  Reports  of  the  State  of 
Michigan  we  take  the  following : — 

"From  old  Fort  Mackinaw  to  the  Manistee  River,  the 
land  immediately  upon  the  lake  shore,  and  not  un- 
frequently  extending  back  for  many  miles,  is  con 
siderably  elevated,  and  occasionally  rises  very  ab 
ruptly  to  the  height  of  from  one  hundred  to  three 
or  four  hundred  feet.  The  country  (more  particu 
larly  the  northern  portion)  continues  to  rise  as  we 
proceed  into  the  interior,  until  it  attains  an  elevation 
equal  to  any  other  portion  of  the  peninsula. 

"  This  is  more  particularly  the  case  in  the  rear  of 
Traverse  Bay,  where  this  elevation  continues  for  many 
miles  into  the  interior,  giving  to  the  landscape  a 
very  picturesque  appearance  when  viewed  from  some 
of  the  small  lakes,  which  abound  in  this  as  well  as 
in  the  more  southern  portion  of  the  State. 


256  Old  Mackinaw. 

"  The  tract  of  country  under  consideration  is  based 
on  limestone,  sandstone,  and  shales,  which  are  cov 
ered,  excepting  at  a  few  points,  with  a  deposit  of  red 
clay  and  sand,  varying  in  thickness  from  a  few 
inches  to  more  than  four  hundred  feet.  The  interior 
of  the  northern  portion  of  the  peninsula,  west  of  the 
meridian,  is  generally  more  rolling  than  that  on  the 
east.  It  is  interspersed  with  some  extensive  cedar 
swamps  and  marshes,  on  the  alluvial  lands,  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  heads  of  streams  and  some  of  the  lakes. 
The  upland  is  generally  rolling,  has  a  soil  of  clay, 
loam  and  sand,  and  is  clad  with  evergreen  timber, 
intermixed  with  tracts  of  beech,  and  maple,  varying 
in  extent  from  a  few  acres  to  several  townships. 
Several  of  the  most  extensive  of  these  tracts  arc 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cheboygan  and  Tahweegon 
rivers,  their  lakes  and  tributary  streams.  There  are 
also  large  tracts  of  beech  and  maple  timber  lying  be 
tween  the  head  of  Grand  Traverse  Bay,  and  the 
Manistee  and  Muskeegon  rivers. 

"  The  elevated  portion  of  land  on  the  shore  of 
Lake  Michigan,  known  as  the  '  Sleeping  Bear'  as 
well  as  Manitou  Island,  (see  latitude  45)  which, 
when  viewed  from  a  distance,  has  the  appearance 
of  sand,  is  found  to  be  composed  of  alternate  lay 
ers  of  highly  rnarly  clay  and  sand.  The  clay  is  of 


Old  Mackinaw.  257 

a  deep  red  color,  and  in  many  places  its  strata  are 
much  contorted. 

"The  hilly  region,  to  which  allusions  have  been 
made,  is  mostly  heavily  timbered  with  beech,  maple, 
bass,  oak,  ash,  elm,  birch,  etc.,  interspersed  with  an 
occasional  cedar  swamp.  In  the  vicinity  of  Grand 
Traverse  Bay,  this  character  of  country  extends  into 
the  interior  for  many  miles,  bordering  on  a  series  of 
small  and  beautiful  lakes,  which  vary  in  length  from 
two  to  eighteen  miles,  and  are  generally  free  from 
marsh  and  swamp.  This  country,  as  also  that  in  the 
interior  from  Little  Traverse  Bay,  is  well  adapted  to 
the  purposes  of  agriculture. 

"  Passing  south  of  this  rolling  district,  the  country 
becomes  less  elevated  and  more  variable,  the  soil 
assuming  a  more  sandy  character,  and  being  gener 
ally  clad  with  evergreen  timber.  There  are,  how 
ever,  exceptions  to  this  in  some  fine  tracts  of  beech 
and  maple  near  the  lake  coast,  also,  in  the  vicinity 
of  some  of  the  streams  in  the  interior. 

"  It  is  nevertheless  true,  that  there  are  many  ex 
tensive  swamps  and  marshes  in  this  part  of  the  penin 
sula,  but  it  is  doubted  whether,  upon  the  whole,  they 
exceed  the  quantity  or  extent  of  those  of  the  more 
southern  part  of  the  State. 

"  In  point  of  soil  and  timber,  this  portion  of  the 
22* 


2^8  Old   Mackinaw. 

State  is  not  inferior  to  the  more  southern — and 
such  are  the  advantages  it  offers  to  the  settler,  that  the 
day  is  not  distant  when  it  will  be  sought  as  a  place 
of  residence  by  the  agriculturist. 

"  The  beauty  of  its  lakes  and  streams  is  not  any 
where  surpassed.  Such  is  the  transparency  of  their 
waters  as  to  permit  objects  to  be  distinctly  seen  at 
the  depth  of  more  that  thirty  feet. 

"That  part  of  the  peninsula  situate  north  of 
Grand  River  is  usually  regarded  by  many  of  the  in 
habitants  of  the  more  southern  part  of  the  State, 
as  being  either  an  impenetrable  swamp,  or  a  sandy 
barren  waste,  and  as  possessing  too  rigorous  a  cli 
mate  to  admit  of  its  successful  application  to  pur 
poses  of  agriculture. 

"  This  is  an  erroneous  opinion,  and  one  which  will 
most  certainly  be  corrected,  as  the  facts  with  regard 
to  this  part  of  our  State  come  more  fully  to  be 
known.  The  inhabitants  of  Flat,  Royale,  Muske- 
gon  and  White  Rivers,  and  the  Ottawa  Indians, 
living  on  the  Grand  and  Little  Traverse  Bays,  and 
on  the  Manistee  River,  have  extensive  cultivated 
fields,  which  uniformly  produce  abundant  crops. 

"  The  country  on  Flat  and  Royale  Rivers  is  gener 
ally  rolling,  interspersed  with  level  and  knobby  tracts ; 
but  none  is  so  rough  as  to  prevent  it  from  being 


Old   Mackinaw.  259 

successfully  cultivated.  The  timber  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  streams  consists  of  black,  white,  and  burr  oak, 
which  is  scattering,  and  forms  what  is  denominated 
openings  and  plains ;  small  tracts  of  pine  barrens, 
beech,  maple  and  oak  lands,  interspersed  with  tracts 
of  white  pine. 

"Settlements  are  rapidly  advancing  in  this  part 
of  our  State,  and  much  of  the  land  under  cultiva 
tion  produces  excellent  crops  of  wheat,  oats,  corn, 
potatoes,  etc.,  and  so  far  as  experience  has  been 
brought  to  the  test,  is  not  inferior  to,  or  more  sub 
ject  to  early  frosts  in  the  fall,  than  more  southern 
counties  of  the  State. 

11  The  soil  varies  from  a  light  sand  to  a  stiff  clay 
loam. 

"  The  country  on  the  Muskegon  is  rolling,  and 
may  be  considered  as  divided  into  beech  and  maple 
land,  pine  lands,  pine  barrens,  oak  openings,  plains 
and  prairies.  Small  tracts  of  the  latter  are  situated 
near  the  forks  of  the  river,  about  forty-five  miles 
from  its  mouth,  and  between  thirty  and  forty-five 
miles  north  of  the  Grand  Kiver. 

"  Crops  of  corn,  oats,  wheat,  etc.,  were  here  as 
nourishing  as  those  of  the  more  southern  part  of 
State.  The  soil  of  the  prairies  and  openings  is 


260  Old  Mackinaw. 

sandy,  while  that  of  the  beech  and  maple  lands  is  a 
sand  and  clay  loam. 

"  The  Indians  on  Grand  and  Little  Traverse  Bays 
and  vicinity,  also  obtain  good  crops  of  corn,  pota 
toes,  squashes,  etc.  Some  of  the  most  intelligent 
Indians  informed  me  that  they  were  seldom  injured 
by  frosts  in  the  fall  or  spring.  They  also  have 
many  apple  trees  which  produce  fruit  in  consider 
able  quantities. 

"  The  soil  is  strictly  a  warm  one,  and,  exposed  as 
the  whole  country,  bordering  on  Lake  Michigan,  is 
to  the  influence  of  the  southern  winds  during  sum 
mer  and  parts  of  spring  and  fall,  it  seldom  fails  to 
be  productive." 

Professor  Thomas,  Geologist,  has  placed  in  our 
hands  the  following  report  of  the  Geology  of  Macki 
naw,  Michigan : 

"  From  the  site  of  old  Fort  Mackinaw,  at  the  very 
extremity  of  the  peninsula,  south  to  the  Manistee 
Eiver,  a  direct  distance  of  about  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles,  the  immediate  shores  of  the  lake  are 
almost  invariably  considerably  elevated,  sometimes 
rising  abruptly  to  a  height  of  from  three  to  four 
hundred  feet. 

"The  soil  of  the  vicinity,  in  consequence  of  the 
large  amount  of  calcareous  matter  which  enters  into 


Old   Mackinaw.  261 

its  composition,  possesses  a  fertility  that  a  superficial 
observer  would  scarcely  ascribe  to  it. 

"The  limestone  chiefly  consists  of  an.  irregular 
assemblage  of  angular  fragments  united  by  a  tufa- 
ceous  cement.  These  fragments  usually  appear  at 
first  sight  to  have  a  compact  structure,  but  a  more 
minute  examination  shows  them  to  contain  minute 
cells,  sufficiently  large  to  admit  water,  which,  by  the 
action  of  frost,  subjects  the  rock  to  rapid  disintegra 
tion.  Portions  of  the  rock  may,  nevertheless,  be 
selected  partially  free  from  this  difficulty,  and  which 
are  possessed  of  sufficient  compactness  to  render 
them  of  value  as  a  coarse  building  stone ;  horn-stone, 
striped  jasper  (imperfect);  hog-toothed  spar,  calca 
reous  spar,  and  fluor  spar,  are  imbedded  in  the  rock, 
although  the  latter  is  of  rare  occurrence. 

"  Lime  rock  again  occurs  at  the  Straits  of  Macki 
naw,  and  in  the  vicinity,  it  appears  upon  the  Island 
of  Mackinac,  together  with  the  Bois  Blanc,  Eound, 
and  St.  Martin's  Islands,  as  also  upon  the  northern 
peninsula  north  from  Mackinaw. 

"  Gypsum  occurs  on  the  St.  Martin's  group  of 
islands,  and  also  upon  the  northern  peninsula  be 
tween  Green  Bay  and  Mackinac. 

"  MACKINAW  LIMESTONE. — The  rock  is  of  a  light 
color,  and  the  fragments  of  which  it  is  composed 


262  Old  Mackinaw. 

frequently  contain  numberless  minute  cells.  These 
were  undoubtedly  once  filled  with  spar,  which  has 
been  washed  out  of  the  exposed  part  of  the  rock  by 
the  action  of  water.  The  upper  part  is  unfit  for 
building  purposes,  but  the  lower  is  more  compact, 
and  has  marks  of  regular  stratification. 

"  COAL. — The  coal  is  highly  bituminous,  a  charac 
ter  in  common  with  all  that  has  been  seen  in  the 
State,  and  it  may  safely  be  said,  that  none  other 
may  be  looked  for  in  the  peninsula. 

"  From  the  facts  now  before  me,  I  am  led  to  hope 
that  coal  will  be  found  in  the  elevated  hills  of  the 
northern  part  of  the  peninsula,  easterly  from  Little 
Traverse  Bay,  a  circumstance  which,  should  it  prove 
to  be  the  case,  will  add  much  to  the  value  of  that 
portion  of  the  State." — Houghton  Geological  Reports 
of  Michigan. 

"  Foster  and  Whitney,  United  States  Geologists,  in 
their  Eeports  to  the  Government,  laid  down  the  On- 
ondago  Salt  Group  of  rocks  as  extending  over  a  por 
tion  of  the  southern  part  of  the  northern  peninsula 
of  Michigan,  not  a  great  distance  from  Mackinaw, 
and  also  as  existing  on  the  St.  Martin's  and  Macki 
naw  Islands. 

"  ONONDAGA  SALT  GKOUP. — As  a  whole,  it  is  an 
immense  mass  of  argillo-calcareous  shaly  rocks, 


Old  Mackinaw.  263 

inclosing  veins  and  beds  of  gypsum ;  hence  this  has 
been  designated  by  some  as  the  '  gypseous  shales.' 

"Four  divisions  have  been  distinguished  in  the 
description  of  the  Onondaga  Salt  Group,  though 
the  lines  of  separation  are  by  no  means  well  de 
fined. 

"  1.  Eed  and  greenish  shales  below. 

"2.  Green  and  red  marl,  shale,  and  shaly  lime 
stone  with  some  veins  of  gypsum. 

"  Shaly,  compact,  impure  limestone,  with  shale  and 
marl,  embracing  two  ranges  of  plaster  beds  with 
hopper-shaped  cavities  between. 

"  4.  Drab-colored,  impure  limestone  with  fibrous 
cavities ;  the  '  magnesian  deposit  of  Vanuxem.'  Of 
these,  the  third  is  the  only  one  that  has  yielded  gyp 
sum  in  profitable  quantities.  The  included  masses 
of  gypsum,  though,  for  the  most  part,  even-bedded 
at  their  base,  are  usually  very  irregular  at  their 
upper  surface,  often  conical.  The  plaster  beds  are 
supposed  to  be  separations  by  molecular  attraction 
from  the  marl. 

"  This  third  division  contains  not  only  the  gypse 
ous  beds,  but  is  most  probably  the  source  of  all  the 
salt  so  extensively  manufactured  at  Onondaga,  Ca- 
yuga,  and  Madison ;  at  least  Vanuxem  informs  us 
that,  except  in  these  gypseous  beds,  there  is  no  evi- 


264  Old  Mackinaw. 

dence  of  salt  existing  in  the  solid  state  in  any  of 
the  other  divisions  of  the  Onondaga  Salt  Group. 

"The  fourth  division  is  remarkable  for  a  fine 
columnar  structure,  or  needle-formed  cavities,  dis 
persed  through  the  mass. 

"  In  the  middle  counties  of  New  York,  the  entire 
thickness  of  the  Onondaga  Salt  Group  must  be  from 
six  hundred  to  a  thousand  feet.  Notwithstanding 
its  great  thickness,  this  formation  is  very  barren  in 
fossils.  The  corals  and  shells  of  the  Niagara  group 
suddenly  ceased  to  exist,  perhaps,  as  Hall  suggests, 
being  overwhelmed  by  a  sudden  outbreak  of  a  buried 
vulcano  at  the  bottom  of  the  ocean,  by  which  the 
waters  became  surcharged  not  only  with  argillaceous 
sediment,  but  became  contaminated,  either  with  free 
sulphuric  acid,  or  sulphate  of  ma.gnesia  and  soda. 

"The  country  through  which  the  Onondaga 
Salt  Group  extends,  is  usually  marked  by  a  series  of 
low,  gravelly  hills,  and  clayey  valleys,  on  which  a 
stunted  growth  of  timber  prevails,  known  by  the 
name  of  '  Oak  Openings.'  Small  portions  of  sul 
phate  of  strontia,  galena,  and  blende,  with  rhomb 
spar,  occur  in  the  upper  portion  of  the  group.  Gyp 
sum  and  salt  are,  however,  the  only  minerals  of  eco 
nomical  value :  of  the  former  many  thousand  tons 
are  excavated.  Several  acidulous  springs  issuing 


Old  Mackinaw.  265 

from  these  deposits,  have  been  found  to  contain  free 
sulphuric  acid." — D.  D.  Owen's  jReview  of  the  N.  Y. 
Geological  Reports. 

Jules  Marcou,  in  his  Geology  of  the  United  States, 
places  the  northern  portion  of  the  southern  penin 
sula  of  Michigan  in  the  Terrain  Devonian. 

Report  of  J.  S.  Dixon  and  others,  on  Grand  Tra 
verse  Bay,  p.  523,  in  Michigan  Agricultural  Reports 
for  1834,  says : 

"The  atmosphere  is  moist  and  wholesome — no 
disease,  and  healthy  as  any  portion  of  country.  It 
is  a  well  established  fact,  that  water  cools  first  on 
the  surface,  then  sinks  while  the  warm  water  rises, 
and  consequently  ice  never  forms  till  the  whole  body 
of  water  has  been  cooled  to  thirty  degrees.  Now, 
from  this  fact,  the  philosopher  will  at  once  deduce 
the  climate  of  this  region.  Traverse  Bay  is  from 
one  hundred  to  nine  hundred  feet  deep  and  the  water 
never  cools  to  thirty-two  degrees  till  the  middle  of 
February,  and  in  Lake  Michigan  in  the  middle  never, 
and  so  long  as  the  water  in  these  continuous  reser 
voirs  is  warmer  than  the  air,  the  former  must  ob 
viously  warm  the  latter. 

"It  is  accordingly  well  known  that  in  England, 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Atlantic  7°  or  8°  farther 
north  than  Traverse  Bay,  the  climate,  as  it  regards 
23 


266  Old  Mackinaw. 

cold  in  winter,  is  about  equal  to  that  of  Washington 
City,  and  so  it  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  Pacific  ocean, 
in  Oregon.  Hence  it  is  evident  that  the  seasons  on 
the  east  side  of  Lake  Michigan  must  be  uniform. 

"  Around  Traverse  Bay  the  frost  seldom  kills  ve 
getables  till  in  November,  and  seldom  occurs  in 
spring  later  than  the  1st  of  May.  In  November  it 
gets  cold  enough  to  freeze.  The  vapors  arising  from 
the  lake  and  bay  fall  in  snow  and  cover  the  ground 
before  the  frost  has  penetrated  it  at  all ;  it  accumu 
lates  several  months  till  it  is  two  feet  deep,  some 
times  deeper,  and  remains  till  April ;  and  when  it 
goes  off;  cattle  find  enough  to  eat  in  the  woods. 
This  region  is  much  more  sunny  between  the  middle 
of  March  and  December  than  southern  Michigan, 
and  every  vegetable  physiologist  will  at  once  state 
that  the  influence  of  this  on  vegetation  must  be  very 
great,  and  accordingly  spring  crops  grow  with  such 
rapidity  that  corn  is  fit  to  be  cut  by  the  1st  of  Sep 
tember.  From  December  to  March,  as  above,  the 
atmosphere  is  hazy,  cloudy,  and  frosty,  though  the 
thermometer  never  sinks  so  low  as  in  the  south  of 
Michigan  by  ten  or  twelve  degrees  (8  or  10  degrees 
below  zero,  being  the  lowest  yet  known),  and  a  win 
ter  thaw  is  unknown  here.  Hence  we  never  have 
mud  in  winter,  and  but  little  at  any  season. 


Old  Mackinaw.  267 

"With  the  very  defective  cultivation  hitherto 
used  here,  yield  of  crops  are  as  follows : — Potatoes, 
free  of  rot,  150  to  300  bushels  to  the  acre ;  oats  25 
to  60 ;  corn  25  to  50 ;  wheat  (spring)  the  largest  yet 
raised  27  bushels.  Wheat  raised  here  is  much  more 
plump  than  in  southern  Michigan,  and  there  is  no 
instance  of  its  being  smothered  or  injured  by  snow, 
because  the  snow  never  thaws  and  alternately 
freezes  into  a  hard  crust,  or  ice,  so  as  to  exclude  the 
air  from  the  wheat,  as  in  other  places. 

11  We  confidently  predict  that  this  will  become 
the  most  prolific  wheat  region  in  the  west ;  rust  and 
insects  are  unknown.  All  experience  goes  to  prove 
that  this  will  be  a  great  fruit  country.  The  Indian 
apple  and  peach  trees,  although  few  in  number 
bear  well  every  year;  and  as  to  wild  blackber 
ries  and  raspberries,  both  as  to  size  and  flavor, 
there  is  absolutely  no  end.  They  serve  all  the 
inhabitants  and  millions  of  pigeons  for  several 
months." 

United  States  census,  1850,  shows  products  of 
States. 

Average  per  acre  of 
Wheat.  Oats  Corn.    Potatoes. 

Michigan .10  Bushels  26  32  140 

Illinois 11        "  29  33  105 

Indiana 12        "  20  33  100 

Iowa 14        "  36  32  100 


268  Old  Mackinaw. 

Average  per  acre  of 

Wheat.  Oats  Corn.    Potatoes. 

Ohio  ................  12        "  21  36 

Wisconsin  ...........  14        "  35  30 

Pennsylvania  ........  15         "  20 

New  York  ...........  12        "  25  27 


CLIMATE.  —  Council  Bluffs  is  in  latitude  41J°,  Du- 
buque  42  f  °,  Green  Bay  43J°,  and  Mackinaw  City 
about  460.  By  reference  to  the  following  tables  of 
temperature,  it  will  be  seen  that  these  points  are 
about  on  the  same  isothermal  line,  practically  remov 
ing,  by  these  tables,  the  prejudices  generally  exist 
ing  against  the  climate  of  northern  Michigan  —  see 
Blodgett's  Climatology  and  Army  Meteorological 
Reports  of  United  States. 

Quebec,  Canada,   average   in  January  above  zero,  13° 

Montreal,       "         ...........  "  "  16 

Hampden,   Maine  ............  "  "  "  17 

Portland,         "     ............  "  "  "  21 

Cannel,  "     ............  "  "  "  15 

Burlington,  Vt  .............  "  "  "  19 

Deerfield,  Mass  .............  "  "  "  21 

Grariville,  N.  Y  .............  "  "  "  22 

Potsdam,         "     ............  "  "  "  18 

Plattsburgh    "     ............  "  "  "  20 

Gouverneur,    "     ............  "  "  "  20 

Lowville,         "     ............  "  "  "  22 

Oneida,  "     ............  "  "  "  22 

Buffalo,  "     ............  "  "  "  23 

Silver  Lake,  Pa  ......  .......  "  "  "  22 

Concord,  N.  H  .............  "  "  «  22 


Old  Mackinaw.  269 

Boston,  Mass.        average   in   January  above  zero,  28° 

Albany,  N.  Y "  «  "  24 

Chicago,  Illinois    "  "  "  24 

Ottawa,         "         "  "  "  23 

Muscatine,  Iowa "  "  ''  20 

Detroit,  Michigan "  "  "  27 

Pittsburgh,  Pa "  "  «  29 

Philadelphia,  "     "  "  "  32 

Cincinnati,  Ohio   "  "  "  30 

Green  Bay,  Wis "  "  19 

Dubuque,  Iowa, u  "  "  20 

Council  Bluffs      "  «  19 

Mackinaw  City      "  "  "  19 

These  extremes  of  latitude  of  Philadelphia  and 
Mackinaw  include  the  principal  agricultural,  mining, 
manufacturing,  and  commercial  interests  of  America, 
elements  naturally  pertaining  to  Michigan,  and 
second  in  their  variety  and  extent  to  no  State  of  the 
Union. 

Archangel,  Russia,  in  January,  averages  above  zero  6.60° 

St.  Petersburg,  "   "  "  "  15.70 

Christiana,  Norway, "  "  "  21.30 

St.  Bernard,  Switzerland,..  "  "  "  14.40 

Moscow,  Russia, "  "  "  13.60 

Erzeroum,  Turkey, "  "  "  18. 

Taganwa,  Sea  of  Azof, "  "  "  20.70 

Astracan,  Caspian  Sea,...  "  "  "  21.30 

Kasow(  Volga)  Russia,....  "  "  "  3.50 

Stockholm,  Sweden, "  "  "  24.30 

Cracow,  Poland, u  "  "  23.40 

Pekin,  China, "  "  "  26.00 

Odessa,  S.  Russia, "  "  "  25.20 

Berlin,  Prussia, "  "  "  27.70 

23* 


270  Old  Mackinaw. 

Extremes  below  zero,  1835. 

Bangor,  Maine January  4,       below  40° 

Bath            "      "  "40 

Portland,     "      . .  .* "  "21 

Boston,  Mass "  "     15 

Salem,        "       "  "17 

Chicago,  111 February  8,  "     22 

St.  Louis,  Mo "  "     22 

Cincinnati,  0 "  "     18 

Lexington,  Ky "  "     20 

Nashville,  Tenn '10 

Huntsville,  Ala "  •       9 

Philadelphia,  Pa "       6 

Lancaster,  Pa "22 

Washington  City "16 

Clarksville,  Geo "  "15 

Army  Meteorological  Eeports  for  1854. 

January.  Range.  above        below 

Mean.         Max'm.      min'm.      mean.        mean. 

Fort   Hamilton,  N.  Y.    31.49°  50.  12.  18.5  19.5 

Fort   Niagara,        "        25.04  48.  6.  23.  19. 

Alleghany,  Pa 29.08  64.  5.  34.9  24.1 

Fort  Delaware,  Md 32.38  54.  10.  21.6  17.4 

Cincinnati,  Ohio 31.78  54.  1.  22.2  32.8 

Fort  Snelling,  Min 1.30  45.  36.  43.7  37.3 

"     Leavenworth,  Kan.  24.68  67.  8.  32.3  32.7 

"     Mackinaw,  Mich.     13.09  34.  15.  10.9  28.1 

Blodgett's  and  Army  Kain  Charts,  showing  rain 
and  snow  in  inches  for  a  series  of  years. 

Jan.  Feb.          M'ch.  Dec.  Total  in  year. 

Mack'w  Island,  Mich.  1.25        .82        1.14        1.24  23.87 

Fort  Kent, Maine...   3.73      2.60        1.77        3.36          36.46 
Portland,         "     ...  3.37      3.39        2.92        4.17          45.25 


Old  Mackinaw. 


271 


Jan. 

Feb. 

M'ch. 

Dec. 

Total  in  year. 

Charleston,  Mass  

2.66 

2.22 

4.08 

2.27 

35.83 

Montreal,   Canada.  . 

2.84 

1.84 

2.69 

2.58 

47.28 

Fayetteville,  Vt  

3.93 

3.91 

4.07 

3.55 

53.99 

Cincinnati,  Ohio,... 

3.35 

3.51 

3.93 

4.29 

46.89 

Green  Bay,  Wis..  .  . 

1.19 

0-87 

1.70 

1.30 

34.65 

Detroit    Mich  ,  .  .  . 

2.18 

1.38 

2.86 

1.30 

30.07 

St  Louis    Mo  ...... 

1.93 

3.37 

3.82 

1.99 

41.95 

Fort  Hamilton,  N.Y. 

2.98 

3.67 

3.65 

3.84 

43.65 

Pittsburgh     Pa  

2.18 

2.17 

2.70 

3.13 

34.96 

Philadelphia,  Pa  

3.09 

2.94 

3.43 

4.03 

43.56 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Agricultural  interest — Means  of  transportation — Railways  and 
vessels — Lumber — Vessels  cleared— Lake  cities  and  Atlantic 
ports — Home-market — Breadstuffs — Michigan  flour — Mone 
tary  panics — Wheat — Importations  —  Provisions  —  Fruit  — 
Live  stock — Wool— Shipping  business — Railroads  —  Lake 
Superior  trade — Pine  lumber  trade — Copper  interest — Iron 
interest — Fisheries —  Coal  mines — Salt — Plaster  beds. 

We  copy  from  the  Detroit  Tribune  of  1860,  a 
somewhat  elaborate  and  lengthy  article  containing 
recent  and  highly  important  information  in  regard 
to  the  industrial  interests  of  Michigan.  Though 
there  are  portions  of  this  article  which  we  have  to 
some  extent  anticipated  in  some  of  our  previous 
chapters,  we  consider  it  highly  important  to  extract 
largely  from  it,  because  of  its  more  recent  date.  To 
all  interested  in  the  development  and  future  growth 
of  the  Northwest,  it  will  prove  most  valuable.  The 
writer,  Mr.  Kay  Haddock,  commercial  editor  of  the 
Tribune,  says: — 
(272) 


Old  Mackinaw.  273 

"  We  know  of  no  similar  extent  of  country  on  the 
globe  so  highly  favored  by  nature  as  our  own  State, 
which  but  twenty -three  years  since  emerged  from 
the  chrysalis  condition  of  a  territory,  but  which  to 
day,  by  the  quickening  influence  brought  to  bear 
upon  her  natural  advantages  by  an  enterprising  and 
enlightened  people,  possesses  elements  of  wealth  and 
greatness  that  might  well  be  coveted  by  empires. 
The  characteristics  for  which  she  is  pre-eminent  are 
neither  few  in  number  nor  ordinary  in  character. 
She  occupies  the  very  front  rank  in  respect  to  im 
portant  minerals,  as  well  as  in  the  extent  and  quality 
of  her  forest  products,  while  her  fisheries  are  altoge 
ther  unrivaled,  and,  like  her  mines  and  forests,  are 
the  source  of  exhaustless  wealth.  With  regard  to 
the  extent  and  diversity  of  her  natural  resources,  it 
would  indeed  seem  difficult  to  over-estimate  them. 
Predictions  that  seem  visionary  to-day,  are  to-mor 
row  exceeded  by  the  reality,  as  some  new  treasure  is 
revealed.  A  glance  at  the  map  is  of  itself  the  most 
eloquent  commentary  that  could  be  presented  with 
reference  to  her  geographical  position.  As  nature 
does  nothing  in  vain,  the  shipping  facilities  afforded 
by  the  noble  inland  seas  that  clasp  our  shores,  are  a 
sign  and  promise  of  the  commercial  greatness  that 
awaits  us  in  the  future.  We  mav  well  be  proud  of  the 


274  Old  Mackinaw. 

condition  of  our  agricultural  interest — that  great  in 
terest  which  underlies  every  other ;  which  alike 
gives  to  the  wealthy  his  opulence  and  the  beggar  his 
crust.  Our  farmers  have  unmistakably  indicated 
their  determination  to  accept  of  no  secondary 
position  in  the  quality  of  their  wheat,  and  their  wool 
is  not  only  rapidly  gaining  the  first  rank  as  respect 
the  amount  produced,  but  is  sought  for  with  avidity 
for  its  superior  quality  by  all  the  principal  manu 
facturers  of  the  country.  Pomona,  too,  has  thrown 
her  influence  in  the  scale.  The  region  that  has  thus 
far  been  devoted  to  the  culture  of  fruit,  in  propor 
tion  to  its  extent,  cannot  be  surpassed  in  the  Union, 
if  indeed  it  can  be  equaled.  Such  is  a  faint  picture 
of  the  '  Peninsular  State.' 

"  The  snail-like  progress  hitherto  made  in  the  set 
tlement  of  a  large  share  of  the  State,  is  an  enigma  to 
those  not  versed  in  our  early  history.  While  oc 
cupying  the  position  of  a  dependent  of  the  central 
power  at  Washington,  we  were  so  unfortunate  in 
some  instances  as  to  have  men  placed  over  us  with 
whom  personal  interests  were  paramount  to  the  great 
interests  of  the  territory,  which,  at  the  critical  period 
when  the  seeds  of  prosperity  should  have  been  planted, 
was  fatal  to  our  advancement.  Next  came  the  era  of 
Utopian  projects  of  internal  improvement,  by  which 


Old  Mackinaw.  275 

our  people  were  saddled  with  an  onerous  load  of  debt. 
In  the  mean  time  immigrants  were  misled  by  false 
reports  concerning  the  character  of  the  soil  in  the  in 
terior  of  the  State,  and  there  were  no  roads  by  means 
of  which  they  could  satisfy  themselves  of  the  true 
character  of  the  country.  They  therefore  passed  on 
to  find  homes  upon  what  then  seemed  the  most  attrac 
tive  prairies  of  the  far  West.  But  there  is  at  last  a 
great  change  in  the  tide  of  affairs.  The  value  of  our 
timber  is  justly  regarded  as  greatly  overbalancing 
the  doubtful  advantage  of  settling  upon  prairie  land, 
and  the  active  demand  that  has  recently  sprung  up 
for  it  must  constantly  make  a  still  greater  difference 
in  our  favor.  Lands  long  held  in  the  iron  grasp  of 
speculators  are  rapidly  coming  into  the  possession  of 
actual  settlers.  Our  State  is  being  intersected  by  a 
system  of  roads,  which  will  ere  long  demonstrate  the 
necessity  of  an  extension  of  the  system.  Our  course 
is  indeed  onward  and  upward. 

"  Having  seen  a  statement,  given  upon  the  author 
ity  of  some  gazeteer,  to  the  effect  that  about  six  mil 
lion  dollars  were  invested  in  this  State  in  manufac 
turing,  which  we  felt  assured  was  a  libel  upon  the 
State,  we  have  taken  steps  to  procure  statistics  of  the 
more  important  industrial  establishments  throughout 
the  entire  State.  We  find  that  in  the  manufacture 


276  Old  Mackinaw. 

of  pine  lumber  alone,  there  are  about  seven  million 
dollars  invested,  exclusive  of  the  standing  timber  of 
proprietors,  which  perhaps  might  properly  be  in 
cluded  as  part  of  the  capital. 

Such  indications  of  thrift,  enterprise,  and  pros 
perity  in  a  region  that  twenty-four  years  ago  was 
a  howling  wilderness,  it  may  be  safely  said,  is  with 
out  a  parallel.  The  other  counties,  we  are  tolerably 
safe  in  estimating,  will  swell  the  amount  to  $10,000,- 
000,  making,  with  the  lumber  manufactories,  and 
the  $2,148,500,  invested  in  the  iron  manufacture, 
more  than  twenty  million  dollars ! 

The  apathy  of  the  citizens  of  Detroit  in  availing 
themselves  of  the  magnificent  advantages  possessed 
by  the  city  for  prosecuting  manufacturing  upon  an 
extensive  scale,  is  wholly  inexplicable.  There  is  a 
mine  of  unproductive  wealth  in  our  midst  that  might 
at  once  be  placed  at  compound  interest.  It  now  lies 
dormant  in  the  sinewy  arms  of  men  and  the  nimble 
fingers  of  women  and  children.  There  is  thus  a 
moral  aspect  in  this  question  that  addresses  itself 
with  peculiar  earnestness  to  the  philanthropic.  But 
it  were  a  philanthropy  that  would  lay  up  treasures 
on  earth.  Daily,  almost  hourly,  raw  material  takes 
its  departure  from  our  city  destined  to  be  received 
at  eastern  manufactories,  there  to  be  worked  up  and 


Old  Mackinaw.  277 

returned  to  us  for  our  consumption,  by  which  we 
are  taxed  with  the  freight  both  ways,  in  addition  to 
losing  the  profit  of  the  manufacture.  Every  pro 
perty  holder  has  a  direct  interest  at  stake.  If  a 
liberal  sum  were  to  be  subscribed  to-morrow  for  in 
vestment  in  this  important  branch  of  enterprise,  the 
direct  benefit  that  would  accrue  to  the  real  estate  of 
the  city  would  be  at  least  double  the  amount  in 
vested. 

The  Western  States  look  with  deep  interest  to  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  and  are  hopeful  that  it  may 
prove  a  great  benefit  to  them  in  enabling  producers 
to  reach  the  markets  of  European  consumers  at  a 
cheap  rate  for  carriage.  Unquestionably  great  bene 
fits  will  grow  out  of  the  opening  up  of  the  great 
thoroughfare.  At  the  same  time  there  are  questions 
of  grave  importance  to  shippers  which  will  soon 
have  to  be  met,  and  nothing  can  be  lost,  while  some 
thing  may  be  gained,  by  meeting  them  at  the  out 
set. 

We  set  out,  then,  with  the  proposition  that  the 
bulky  products  of  the  West  must  be  carried  by 
water  and  not  by  rail,  and  will  state  a  few  facts  that 
in  our  humble  opinion  will  place  this  proposition  be 
yond  all  cavil.  So  far  as  figures  can  be  obtained,  and 
correct  calculations  made,  it  has  been  demonstrated 
24 


278  Old  Mackinaw, 

that  freight  cannot  be  moved  on  American  railroads 
for  less  than  one  cent  per  ton  per  mile.  This  is  ac 
tually  the  first  cost,  even  in  the  coal  regions  of  Penn 
sylvania.  It  is  therefore  fair  to  presume  that  the 
Grand  Trunk,  with  conceded  advantages  of  superior 
and  economical  management,  cannot  move  freight  at 
a  less  cost,  and  that  the  figure  named  will  yield  no 
thing  to  the  stockholders  in  the  shape  of  dividend. 
It  is  true  that  freight  has  been  carried  at  an  actual 
loss,  and,  as  we  are  about  to  show,  the  same  thing 
will  to  some  extent  be  done  again,  but  if  persevered 
in  this  can  only  result  in  ruin,  and  no  one  will  assert 
that  it  ought  to  be  taken  as  a  legitimate  basis  for 
future  calculations.  It  follows,  then,  that  $8,80  is  the 
lowest  sum  for  which  a  ton  can  be  moved  from  De 
troit  to  Portland,  the  distance  between  the  two  cities 
being  eight  hundred  and  eighty  miles.  This  show 
ing  may  not  be  relished  by  those  most  immediately 
interested  in  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  nor  may  it  be 
palatable  to  the  producers  of  the  West,  who  have 
built  high  hopes  on  this  road  as  an  outlet  to  the  At 
lantic,  but  it  is  useless  to  attempt  to  shut  our  eyes 
to  obvious  facts.  The  West  has  for  years  possessed 
shorter  and  consequently  cheaper  routes  to  the  sea 
board,  and  in  winter  the  cost  of  reaching  the  At 
lantic  cities  has  always  been  and  now  is  from  100  to 


Old  Mackinaw.  279 

200  per  cent,  greater  by  rail  than  during  the  navi 
gation  season  by  the  cheaper  mode.  This  is  easily 
proved.  Let  us  look  at  the  distance  by  the  old  route 
by  the  way  of  Suspension  Bridge : 

Detroit  to  Suspension  Bridge,  is  232  miles;  the 
Bridge  to  Albany,  300;  Albany  to  Boston  200; 
total  732. 

Thus  we  see  that  the  whole  distance  from  Detroit 
to  Boston  is  seven  hundred  and  thirty-two  miles,  or 
one  hundred  and  forty-eight  less  than  from  Detroit 
to  Portland.  As  regards  shipments  from  Detroit  to 
Boston,  via  the  Grand  Trunk,  the  matter  is  worse, 
for  we  have  to  add  one  hundred  and  three  miles  from, 
Portland  to  Boston,  making  the  old  route  two  hun 
dred  and  fifty-three  miles  shorter  to  that  point  than 
by  the  newly  opened  road.  It  is  evident  therefore, 
that  the  West  is  not  likely  to  gain  anything  per 
manently  by  the  new  route,  except  in  so  far  as  it 
may  open  up  some  local  trade,  which,  inconsider 
able  at  first,  may  eventually  assume  considerable 
importance.  Of  course,  what  is  true  regarding  Detroit, 
is  also  true  with  respect  to  every  point  west  of  us. 

Every  one  conversant  with  trade  must  admit  that 
goods  can  be  carried  as  cheap  from  any  port  in 
Europe  to  New  York  as  to  Portland.  The  distance 
from  New  York  to  Detroit,  via  Albany  and  Suspen- 


280  Old  Mackinaw. 

sion  Bridge,  is  six  hundred  and  eighty-two  miles,  or 
one  hundred  and  ninety-eight  miles  less  than  from 
Portland  to  Detroit.  Goods  ought  certainly  to  be 
carried  cheaper  from  New  York  to  Detroit  than  by 
a  route  near  two  hundred  miles  further. 

We  learn  that  the  New  York  Central  Kailroad 
Company  are  now  perfecting  a  plan  for  ticketing 
passengers  and  goods  from  any  point  in  the  Western, 
Southern,  and  Southwestern  States,  and  vice  versa. 
Thus  at  least  one  important  advantage  to  the  West 
is  already  apparent,  growing  out  of  the  comprehen 
sive  action  of  the  Grand  Trunk  managers,  while  the 
action  of  the  New  York  Central  is  the  sure  precur 
sor  of  a  momentous  era  in  railroad  annals.  The  pre 
sent  year  is  likely  to  witness  the  first  battle  in  a  war 
for  the  European  and  domestic  trade  of  the  West, 
that  may  in  the  end  turn  the  entire  current  into 
other  channels.  It  will  be  a  strife  of  giants,  and  the 
prize  the  most  magnificent  ever  battled  for,  either  in 
the  tented  field  or  in  the  nobler  contests  of  nations 
for  commercial  supremacy.  That  prize  is  the  car 
rying  trade  of  an  empire  fast  rising  into  manly 
vigor,  and  destined  to  attain  to  a  point  during  the 
present  generation  that  will  dazzle  the  world  with 
its  vastness  and  grandeur.  On  one  side  will  be 
arrayed  the  Grand  Trunk  Kailway,  with  its  sixty 


Old  Mackinaw.  281 

million  dollars  of  capital,  backed  by  the  government 
of  Canada,  and  sustained  by  every  merchant  of  the 
British  North  American  colonies,  aided  by  powerful 
friends  in  Europe — men  of  character,  standing  and 
capital,  who  will  strain  every  nerve  to  supply 
their  darling  road  with  business,  in  which  they  will 
have  the  sympathy  of  the  whole  English  people — 
for  in  both  England  and  Canada  the  Grand  Trunk 
is  looked  upon  as  a  great  triumph  of  national  engi 
neering  skill,  while  at  the  same  time  it  gratifies  the 
national  pride,  as  it  gives  the  world  one  more  con 
vincing  proof  of  that  indomitable  pluck  that  is  the 
chief  secret  of  the  great  celebrity  attained  by  the 
merchants  of  the  "fast  anchored  isle"  for  commer 
cial  enterprise. 

On  the  other  side  will  be  marshaled  the  forces  of 
the  "  Grand  Trunk"  lines  of  railroad  leading  to  the 
Western  States  from  the  Atlantic  sea-board.  The 
most  prominent  on  the  list  is  the  New  York  Central 
Railroad,  with  her  natural  allies,  the  Great  Western 
of  Canada,  the  Hudson  River  Railroad,  and  the 
Western  Railroad  of  Massachusetts.  Next  in 
order,  as  parties  in  the  struggle,  are  the  New  York 
and  Erie,  the  Pennsylvania  Central,  and  the  Balti 
more  and  Ohio  Railroad,  not  to  speak  of  the  local 
24* 


282  Old  Mackinaw. 

roads  in  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Michigan,  that  will  be 
affected  more  or  less  in  the  contest  for  supremacy. 

The  Grand  Trunk  will  fight  under  one  banner, 
and  that  banner  will  carry  on  its  broad  folds  the 
commercial  prestige  of  the  British  Empire,  and  will 
have  the  sympathy  of  the  British  people.  This, 
which  will  probably  carry  with  it,  as  a  coincident, 
plenty  of  the  "  sinews  of  war,"  will  be  decidedly  a 
vantage  ground  to  stand  upon. 

The  American  interests  will  come  into  the  field 
under  different  leaders,  having  no  unity  of  action, 
and  hating  and  fearing  each  other ;  who  have  never 
had  confidence  in  each  others'  words  or  actions; 
who  have  never  displayed  any  generosity  toward 
each  other;  whose  dealings  with  each  other  have 
been  marked  by  cheating  and  bad  faith,  as  the 
breaking  of  all  convention  treaties  has  proved. 
Under  such  a  load  of  demoralization,  all  of  them 
combined  are  perhaps  not  more  than  a  match  for 
the  Grand  Trunk.  One  of  the  American  roads  will 
have  to  stand  in  the  van  and  sustain  the  first  onset, 
and  the  elected  one  will  be  the  NEW  YORK  CENTRAL. 
In  every  point  of  view  it  is  the  one  best  able  to  d<; 
so.  It  is  managed  and  controlled  by  men  of  large 
experience  and  iron  will — men  who  do  not  know 


Old  Mackinaw.  283 

what  defeat  is,  and  who,  come  what  may,  will  show 
that  their  metal  has  the  true  ring. 

The  result  of  such  a  contest  none  can  foresee; 
albeit  after  the  smoke  of  the  battle  is  cleared  away, 
the  wreck  will  only  show  that  it  has  been  a  costly 
and  useless  fight  for  the  stockholders,  and  the  con 
viction  that  God's  highways  are  superior  to  man's 
will  gain  strength,  insomuch  as  to  assume  far  more 
practical  importance  than  it  has  hitherto  attained. 
The  only  method  of  carrying  on  a  successful  trade 
between  the  Western  States  and  the  seaports  of  Eu 
rope,  is  by  water,  and  to  this  conclusion  all  mus4; 
come,  in  the  end,  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic. 

In  order  to  make  the  trade  productive  of  sub 
stantial  benefit  to  all  interested  in  it,  the  West  must 
have  free  course  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  an  en 
largement  of  the  Canadian  canals,  so  that  vessels  of 
say  eighteen  hundred  tons  can  pass  down  to  the 
ports  of  Montreal  and  Quebec  without  unloading, 
and  continue  on  their  way  to  Europe  without  break 
ing  bulk.  A  depth  of  fourteen  feet  water,  with 
locks  of  corresponding  capacity  on  the  canals 
would  accomplish  this  important  end.  The  multifa 
rious  and  rapidly  increasing  products  of  the  Great 
West,  her  timber,  flour,  wheat,  corn,  oats,  rye,  bar 
ley,  pork,  beef,  butter,  lard,  cheese,  meal,  and  every 


284  Old  Mackinaw. 

description  of  agricultural  produce  could  then  be 
laid  down  in  the  ports  of  England  so  cheaply  that 
it  would  greatly  reduce  the  cost  of  the  necessaries 
of  life,  and  give  a  new  impetus  to  the  manufacturing 
interest  of  Great  Britain.  At  the  same  time  it 
would  directly  tend  to  cheapen  every  article  that 
the  West  requires  to  import,  thus  proving  of  double 
advantage  to  our  producers.  In  both  cases  the  pro 
ducer  and  consumer  would  be  brought  face  to  face, 
to  the  obvious  advantage  of  all  concerned.  The 
manufacturing  prosperity  of  England  depends  upon 
an  unlimited  supply  of  cheap  labor,  and  that  supply 
cannot  be  had  unless  she  can  supply  such  laborers 
with  an  unlimited  supply  of  cheap  food.  The  West 
has  the  capacity  not  only  to  furnish  an  inexhaus 
tible  quantity  of  cheap  food,  but  it  can  purchase 
and  consume  a  larger  amount  of  the  productions  of 
English  skill  and  labor  than  any  other  section  of 
the  world.  Why,  then,  cannot  both  parties  hit  on 
some  scheme  that  will  bring  them  more  closely  into 
the  fellowship  of  trade?  It  can  be  done,  if  both 
will  unite  to  obtain  an  unimpeded  outlet  via  the  St. 
Lawrence  for  vessels  and  steamers  of  heavy  burden. 
So  far  as  Quebec  and  Montreal  are  concerned,  it 
is  very  difficult  to  say  whether  the  consummation 
of  the  proposed  enlargement  would  redound  most 


Old  Mackinaw.  285 

to  their  benefit,  or  to  that  of  our  Western  lake 
cities.  In  both  cases  the  gain  would  be  beyond 
computation.  The  two  important  Canadian  cities 
named  would  become  at  once  important  seaports. 
They  would  become  two  of  the  depots  for  the  vast 
commerce  of  two  continents,  and  would  derive  great 
benefits  from  the  opening  up  of  a  local  traffic  with 
the  West,  which  at  present  amounts  to  but  very 
little,  so  far  as  they  are  concerned.  Our  lake  cities 
would  all  become  large  commercial  centres,  and 
would  supply  the  population  of  the  region  tribu 
tary  to  them,  respectively,  with  dry  goods,  crockery, 
hardware,  paints,  oils,  and  all  kinds  of  imported 
merchandise,  at  a  cheaper  rate  by  a  considerable 
per  centage,  than  they  could  be  purchased  at  New 
York,  or  any  city  on  the  Atlantic.  Detroit  would 
be  much  nearer  Liverpool  than  Buffalo  now  is  by 
the  usual  route,  and  Chicago  and  Milwaukee  would 
be  almost  as  near,  practically. 

A  few  figures  will  show  the  decided  advantage 
of  water  over  rail  as  a  medium  of  transporting  the 
bulky  products  of  the  West  to  market. 

It  has  already  been  shown  that  a  ton  of  any  kind 
of  freight  cannot  be  laid  down  at  Portland  from 
Detroit,  by  rail,  under  $8.80,  without  a  loss  to  the 
stockholders,  nor  to  Boston  under  $9.65,  except 


286  Old    Mackinaw. 

with  the  same  result;  nor  at  New  York  via  the 
Great  Western,  New  York  Central,  and  Hudson 
River  roads  under  $6.82,  without  actual  loss  to 
those  roads,  so  that  the  case  would  stand  thus : — 
Detroit  to  Portland,  per  ton,  via  G.  T.  E.,  $8.80 ; 
Detroit  to  Boston,  do.  do.,  $9.85 ;  Detroit  to  New 
York,  $6.82.  Add  $4,00  per  ton  for  ocean  freights, 
and  we  have  in  each  case  respectively,  $12.80, 
$13.85,  and  $10.82  per  ton  to  Liverpool. 

Now  we  maintain  that  a  screw  steamer  of  1800 
tons  burden,  costing,  when  completed,  $150,000,  can 
carry  much  cheaper  than  a  road  like  the  Grand 
Trunk,  costing  $60,000,000,  or  the  New  York  Cen 
tral  and  its  connections.  A  steamer  of  that  capa 
city  would  carry  1,500  tons  of  freight ;  600  tons  of 
coal  would  run  her  across  the  Atlantic,  and  she 
could  coal  from  Chicago  or  Detroit  to  Newfound 
land,  and  from  the  latter  point  to  Liverpool.  By 
doing  this,  she  could  carry  300  tons  more  freight 
than  if  she  coaled  for  the  entire  voyage  from  Chi 
cago  to  Liverpool.  All  the  principal  exports  and 
imports  of  Michigan,  Indiana,  Western  Ohio,  Ken 
tucky,  &c.,  would  find  their  way  to  Detroit,  and  this 
point  would  of  necessity  become  the  great  centre 
of  the  direct  trade  between  Europe  and  the  States 
above  mentioned. 


Old  Mackinaw.  287 

Two  steamers  per  week  could  be  run  with  profit 
on  the  route  during  the  season  of  navigation ;  each 
steamer  would  make  two  round  trips  and  a  half  per 
season  of  seven  months'  navigation,  allowing  two 
months  for  each  round  trip.  At  this  rate  sixteen 
ocean  steamers  would  be  required  to  make  up  a 
semi-weekly  line,  and  were  the  Canadian  canals  en 
larged  and  ready  for  use  by  the  middle  of  next 
April,  there  would  be  at  once  sufficient  trade  to  sus 
tain  them,  at  much  cheaper  rates  for  freight  and 
passage  than  is  now  charged  by  any  route  or  com 
bination  of  routes  in  existence,  as  the  following  will 
show  conclusively : 

Each  round  trip  would  give  the  following  sums 
for  freight  and  passage  : — 1500  tons  of  freight  at  $6 
per  ton,  $9,000 ;  40  cabin  passengers  at  $50  each, 
§2,000  ;  50  steerage  do.  do.  825  each,  §1,250.  Total 
for  the  trip  out,  §12,250.  Inward  bound  : — 600  tons 
feight  at  §6,  §3,600;  75  cabin  passengers  at  $60, 
§4,500 ;  300  steerage  do.  do.,  $30,  $9.000— $17,100. 
Add  outward  receipts,  $12,250.  Total,  §29,350. 
The  total  cost  of  the  trip,  including  insurance, 
would  not  exceed  §14,000.  Total  net  profits, 
$15,250. 

It  will  be  seen  by  the  above  figures  that  our 
staple  products  can  be  carried  to  England  in  the 


288  Old  Mackinaw. 

right  kind  of  vessels,  at  one  half  the  cost  that  rail 
roads  and  connecting  steamers  can  perform  the 
same  service,  even  when  the  latter  carry  at  a  rate 
that  brings  no  profit  to  the  shareholders,  while  the 
former  would  pay  large  dividends.  At  the  rates 
named  for  passage  (but  little  more  than  one-half  the 
present  cost  of  going  from  Detroit  to  England) 
crowds  of  the  European  settlers  in  this  country 
would  flock  to  the  mother  country  to  see  dear  friends 
and  relatives,  and  tens  of  thousands  of  the  Ameri 
can  people  would  embrace  the  opportunity  to  be 
hold  the  tombs  and  temples  and  wonders  of  the  land 
from  whence  their  ancestors  came.  A  feeling  of 
friendship  of  the  true  stamp  would  spring  up  spon 
taneously  between  the  Anglo-Saxon  races  on  each 
side  of  the  Atlantic  that  never  could  be  severed, 
and  which  would  alternately  shed  the  blessings  of 
Christianity  and  civilization  to  every  corner  of  the 
world.  Such  free  intercourse  would  show  that  to 
be  appreciated  by  each  other  they  only  need  to  be 
better  acquainted.  And  it  is  our  firm  belief,  that 
the  day  that  beholds  the  commencement  of  direct 
trade  between  the  old  world  and  in  the  inland  seas 
of  the  Great  West,  by  vessels  of  the  class  named, 
will  see  a  day  of  glory  and  promise  brighter  and 
greater  than  has  ever  yet  dawned  on  any  efforts  put 


Old  Mackinaw.  289 

forth  to  subdue  the  world  by  human  means,  to  peace 
and  universal  brotherhood. 

Our  readers  are  aware  that  a  trade  of  great  im 
portance  has  sprung  up  within  two  or  three  years 
between  Detroit  and  other  lake  ports,  and  the  lead 
ing  seaports  of  Europe.  The  particulars  of  its  inau 
guration  are  already  familiar  to  the  public.  Of  the 
vessels  which  cleared  hence  in  this  trade  in  1858,  one 
was  owned  and  sent  out  by  a  merchant  of  this  city ; 
another  was  loaded  by  a  Cleveland  house ;  the  others 
were  all  owned  or  chartered  by  Capt.  D.  C.  Pierce, 
the  enterprising  pioneer  of  the  trade.  His  first  ven 
ture  on  the  Kershaw,  notwithstanding  some  few  inci 
dental  circumstances  that  worked  to  his  disadvantage, 
was  productive  of  some  direct  profit,  but  a  much 
greater  profit  inured  to  himself,  and  those  who  fol 
lowed  him  in  this  important  commerce,  by  his  be 
coming  well  versed  in  the  European  trade,  insomuch 
as  to  be  enabled  to  avail  himself  of  the  peculiar  ad 
vantages  offered  by  each  market,  as  well  as  in  determi 
ning  the  character  of  freight  most  profitable  to  carry. 
The  cheapest,  best  and  safest  means  of  transporting 
the  diversified  products  of  the  West,  and  particularly 
the  region  of  which  Detroit  is  the  centre,  to  the  Euro 
pean  markets,  reurning  with  foreign  fabrics  in  ex 
change,  had  long  challenged  the  attention  of  capital- 
25 


290  Old  Mackinaw. 

ists,  who  saw  in  it  the  germ  of  a  mighty  commerce, 
but  seemed  to  lack  the  practical  knowledge  and 
tact  to  put  the  ball  in  motion.  Last  year  twenty-one 
vessels  cleared  from  the  different  lake  ports,  mostly 
from  Detroit. 

Another  important  point  which  is  now  in  a  fair 
way  to  be  gained,  is  the  making  of  European  con 
sumers  acquainted  with  the  fact  that  their  wants 
can  be  supplied  to  any  desired  extent.  When  this 
information  becomes  general  the  consumption  must 
be  vastly  stimulated,  affording  one  of  the  most  in 
viting  fields  for  enterprise  known  in  the  commercial 
annals  of  the  world.  The  resources  of  the  State 
are  amply  sufficient  to  afford  employment  for  half  a 
century  to  a  tenfold  larger  number  of  vessels  than 
have  yet  engaged  in  it.  By  a  carefully  compiled 
estimate,  it  has  been  ascertained  that  in  prosperous 
times  the  annual  product  of  our  pineries  is  hard 
upon  TEN  MILLION  DOLLAES.  Large  as  this  sum  is, 
it  is  the  opinion  of  those  who  are  well  qualified  to 
form  an  estimate,  that  it  may  easily  be  surpassed 
by  the  product  of  our  hard  timber.  Take  for  ex 
ample  the  region  around  Saginaw  Bay,  which  is 
perhaps  the  most  remarkable  locality  in  the  world 
as  respects  the  qiiality  and  variety  of  hard  wood 
timber.  Here,  for  near  a  hundred  miles  in  extent, 


Old  Mackinaw.  291 

upon  streams  debouching  into  the  bay,  are  dense 
forests  of  the  choicest  oak,  with  a  profusion  of  hick 
ory,  black  walnut,  white  ash,  white  wood,  and  other 
desirable  varieties.  The  manufacture  of  agricultu 
ral  implements,  as  well  as  many  other  articles  that 
afford  employment  to  the  toiling  millions  of  the  old 
world,  must  receive  a  new  impetus  when  it  is  found 
that  wood  admirably  adapted  to  their  construction 
can  be  had  direct  from  our  forests  at  the  moderate 
rate  at  which  it  will  bear  transportation.  So  of 
birds-eye  maple  for  cabinet  ware,  red  elm  for  car 
riage  hubs,  and  other  varieties  applicable  to  specific 
uses.  We  have  designated  only  such  as  abound  in 
great  plenty.  The  profusion  of  the  growth  is  in 
fact  equaled  only  by  its  accessibility,  the  whole 
country  being  so  permeated  by  streams  that  it  can 
be  floated  off  with  very  little  trouble. 

The  Saginaw  District,  important  and  extensive  as 
it  is,  comprises  but  a  small  portion  of  our  hard-wood 
lumber  region.  In  addition  to  numerous  almost  in 
terminable  forests  in  the  north,  equally  accessible 
and  almost  equally  valuable,  there  are  extensive  re 
gions  in  the  interior  where  timber  abounds  of  such 
choice  quality  as  to  abundantly  warrant  railroad 
transportation  hither.  Although  some  of  the  ship 
ments  last  season  were  of  the  far-famed  Canada  oak, 


292  Old  Mackinaw. 

shippers  all  concur  in  assuring  us  that  the  Michigan 
timber  was  held  in  as  high  estimation,  if  not  higher, 
than  any  other  offered  in  the  foreign  market.  A 
most  significant  fact,  coming  right  to  the  point,  came 
under  our  observation  a  few  months  since.  In  the 
summer  of  1858,  five  passenger  cars  for  the  Michi 
gan  Southern  Eoad  were  built  at  Adrian,  which  un 
prejudiced  judges  pronounced  the  finest  ever  built 
in  the  United  States.  Every  foot  of  timber  in  them 
— as  well  as  every  pound  of  iron — was  of  Michigan 
production.  Last  spring,  after  being  in  use  some 
twenty  months,  these  cars  were  for  the  first  time 
overhauled  for  repairs,  along  with  a  number  of 
eastern  cars  which  had  been  in  use  for  a  like  period  of 
time,  when  it  was  found  that  the  latter,  owing  to  the 
inferior  quality  of  timber,  cost  for  repairs  nearly  as 
many  dollars  as  the  Michigan  cars  did  cents !  We 
have  the  authority  of  gentlemen  of  the  highest  re- 
spectablity  for  stating  this  as  a  literal  fact. 

The  following  is  a  complete  list  of  the  vessels 
which  cleared  for  European  ports  the  past  year,  to 
gether  with  the  character  of  their  cargoes,  respec 
tively,  and  the  port  to  which  they  sailed  :— 

Bark  D.  C.  Pierce,        Staves,  Liverpool. 

"     Allies,  Lumber  and  staves,  Cork. 

"     "W.  S.  Pierson,     Lumber  and  staves,  Greenock. 


Old  Mackinaw. 


293 


Bark  Massillon, 

Lumber  and  staves,  Liverpool. 

Brig  J.  G.  Deshler, 

Staves,                         Glasgow. 

"     Caroline. 

Lumber  and  staves,  Liverpool. 

"     Black  Hawk, 

Staves,                        London. 

Schr  R.  H.  Harmon, 

Staves,                        Liverpool. 

"     J.  F.  Warner, 

Staves,                        Liverpool. 

"     Gold  Hunter, 

Staves,                        Cork. 

"     Dousman, 

Staves,                        London, 

"     Valeria, 

Lumber  and  staves,  Liverpool. 

;'     Vanguard, 

Staves,                        Liverpool. 

"     Grand  Turk, 

Lumber,  '                     Hamburg. 

"     St.  Helena, 

Lumber  and  staves,  Cork. 

"     Chieftain, 

Lumber  and  staves,  London, 

"     C.  H.  Walker, 

Lumber  and  staves,  Liverpool. 

"     M.  S.  Scott, 

Lumber,                       Hamburg, 

"     E.  Bates, 

Lumber  and  staves,  Liverpool 

"     H.  Barclay, 

Staves,                        London. 

"     Republican, 

Lumber  and  staves,  Cadiz. 

"     Messenger, 

Staves,  &c.                 Calais. 

Of  the  above,  Messenger  cleared  from  Buffalo ;  the 
Pierson  and  Kepublican  hailed  from  Milan,  Ohio; 
the  Massillon  and  Valeria  from  Cleveland  ;  the  Scott 
loaded  at  St.  Joseph,  and  was  sent  out  by  a  Milwaukee 
house ;  all  the  others  either  loaded  at  this  port,  or 
were  owned  or  chartered  here.  Eight  of  the  number 
were  chartered  by  Messrs.  Aspinwall  &  Son,  and  two 
of  the  others  were  owned  here. 

The  following  is  the  aggregate  amount  of  lumber 
and  staves  shipped  to  Europe  the  past  year,  exclusive 
of  the  cargoes  from  Cleveland,  Milan,  and  Buffalo  : — 


294  Old  Mackinaw. 

West  India  staves  No 692,057 

Standard  pipe  staves,  No 142,662 

Lumber,  feet 474,693 

[A  Quebec  standard  pipe  is  equal  to  four  West  India  staves.] 
The  Lily  of  Kingston,  was  the  first  vessel  that 
ever  passed  down  from  the  lakes  to  the  ocean, 
bound  to  an  European  port.  Her  destination  was 
Liverpool.  This  was  about  the  year  1847.  She  after 
ward  sailed  in  the  Quebec  and  Liverpool  trade,  but 
was  lost,  we  believe,  on  her  third  ocean  voyage. 

As  collateral  to  this  trade,  an  important  commerce 
has  sprung  up  between  the  lake  cities  and  the  At 
lantic  ports  which  promise  to  increase  rapidly, 
Prior  to  1857,  the  passage  of  vessels  from  the  Wei- 
land  Canal  to  the  ocean  was  of  very  rare  occurrence. 
As  a  matter  of  curiosity,  we  present  a  complete  state 
ment  of  the  vessels  which  have  passed  through  the 
canal  bound  for  Atlantic  or  European  ports,  with  the 
year  of  sailing,  avoiding  a  repetition  of  the  list  above 
given.  The  Dean  Eichmond,  and  those  clearing  in 
1857  and  1858,  all  sailed  for  Europe.  Those  desig 
nated  in  this  list  as  having  sailed  in  1859,  all  cleared 
for  Atlantic  ports : 

1847. .  .American  steam  revenue  cutter  Dallis. 

"  ...  Canadian  barque  Arabia. 
1848. .  .American  barque  Eureka. 
1850. .  .Canadian  schooner  Scotia. 


Old  Mackinaw.  295 


1854. .  .Canadian  schooner  Cherokee. 
1855. . .  Canadian  bark  Reindeer. 
1856. .  .American  schooner  Dean  Richmond. 
1857. .  .American  barkC.  J.  Kershaw. 

"    . ,  .English  schooner  Madeira  Pet. 
1858. .  .American  brig  Black  Hawk. 

"    . .  .American  schooner  R.  H.  Harmon. 

"    . .  .American  schooner  Col.  Cook. 

"    . .  .American  schooner  Correspondent. 

"    ...  American  bark  D.  C.  Pierce, 

"    ..  .American  schooner  D.  B.  Sexton. 

"    ...  American  schooner  John  E.  Warner. 

"    ...  American  bark  H.  E.  Warner. 

"    . .  .American  bark  C,  J.  Kershaw, 

"    . .  .American  schooner  C.  Reeve. 

"    . .  .American  schooner  Harvest. 

"    ...  American  bark  Parmelia  Flood. 
1859. .  .American  bark  Magenta 

"    . .  .American  brig  Sultan. 

"    . .  .American  brig  Indus. 

"    ...  American  brig  Kate  L.  Bruce. 

"    ..  .Canadian  schooner  Union. 

"    . .  .American  schooner  Kyle  Spangler. 

"    . .  .American  schooner  Muskingum. 

"    . .  .American  schooner  Adda. 

"    . .  .American  schooner  Clifton. 

"    . .  .American  schooner  Metropolis. 

"    . .  .American  schooner  Energy. 

"    .  ..American  schooner  W.  B.  Castle. 

"    ..  .American  schooner  Alida. 

"    ...  American  tug  Uncle  Ben. 

"    . .  .American  tug  Cushman, 

"    . .  .American  schooner  Typhoon. 

"    . .  .American  schooner  Sarah  Hibbert. 


296  Old  Mackinaw. 

Presuming  that  those  who  may  hereafter  become 
interested  in  this  commerce,  would  like  the  benefit 
of  the  experience  of  those  who  have  already  em 
barked  it,  we  have  procured  some  valuable  informa 
tion  for  their  benefit.  First,  as  to  the  kind  of  timber 
most  profitable  to  ship  :  Although  black  walnut  ap 
pears  to  be  growing  in  favor,  and  where  once  it  has 
been  used  is  again  inquired  for,  yet  a  decided  pre 
ference  is  given  to  oak,  with  the  qualities  of  which 
all  are  entirely  familiar.  Choice,  selected  oak  com 
mands  more  money  for  cabinet  purposes  in  all  the 
foreign  markets  than  the  same  quality  of  black  wal 
nut.  Contrary  to  previous  expectation,  it  is  not 
likely  that  the  latter  can  ever  be  brought  into  general 
use  in  Great  Britain.  It  is  the  greatest  mahogany 
market  in  the  world,  and  that  wood  is  in  universal 
use,  particularly  the  common  or  cheap  kind.  If  ever 
so  common,  it  is  not  liable  to  warp,  which  cannot  be 
said  of  black  walnut,  although,  as  we  have  before 
intimated,  those  who  have  worked  it,  praise  it  very 
highly.  Beech,  elm  and  ash,  are  used  for  a  great 
many  purposes,  and  are  in  good  demand,  but  oak 
commands  more  money  than  either  of  them,  and  is 
therefore  the  most  profitable  to  ship  at  present. 

The  fact  is  notg  enerally  known,  but  the  informa 
tion  has  been  purchased  at  a  dear  rate,  that  the  pur- 


Old  Mackinaw  297 

chase  of  lumber  for  the  foreign  market  by  board- 
measure,  instead  of  cubic,  involves  a  heavy  loss. 
In  European  markets  all  lumber  is  sold  by  the  cubic 
foot,  so  that  the  cost  of  sawing  is  completely  thrown 
away.  Black  walnut,  for  example,  cannot  be  laid 
down  in  Detroit,  or  any  lake  port,  under  $18  to  $20 
per  M.,  while  the  lumber  can  be  obtained  for  $125  to 
$150  per  M.  cubic  feet,  1,000  feet  cubic  measure 
being  equal  to  12,000  feet  board  measure.  Thus  in 
purchasing  by  cubic  measure,  the  buyer  pays  only 
$125  to  $150  for  an  amount  that  by  board  measure 
would  cost  $216  to  $240,  making  a  clear  difference 
of  ninety  dollars  upon  only  one  thousand  cubic  feet, 
equal  to  $900  upon  a  cargo  of  some  of  the  vessels 
engaged  in  the  trade  last  year.  The  same  rule 
would  apply  substantially  to  other  kinds  of  lumber. 
Independent  of  this,  a  decided  preference  is  given  to 
lumber  in  the  log.  owing  to  the  good  condition  in 
which  it  can  be  delivered.  There  is  one  more  point 
which  manufacturers  as  well  as  shippers  should  bear 
in  mind.  The  value  of  much  of  the  lumber  sent 
out  was  greatly  impaired  by  being  attached  to  the 
heart,  which  is  the  most  porous  part  of  the  tree,  and 
therefore  most  liable  to  crack.  To  obviate  this  ob 
jection  the  saw  should  pass  upon  each  side  of  the 
heart,  thus  leaving  the  whole  of  it  attached  to  a 


298  Old  Mackinaw. 

single  piece  of  timber,  instead  of  one  or  more  pieces, 
and  thereby  making  only  one  cull.  By  observing 
this  rule  a  difference  will  be  made  in  the  market  of 
thirty  or  forty  per  cent. 

Are  staves  or  lumber  the  more  profitable  to  ship  ? 
This  depends  upon  circumstances.  Last  year  it  was 
very  dull  for  both.  For  staves  especially  the  season 
could  not,  for  various  reasons,  have  been  more  unfa 
vorable.  In  the  first  place,  the  grape  crop  was  a  very 
short  one,  not  only  in  France,  but  in  all  the  vine 
countries,  including  the  Canaries.  This,  of  course, 
greatly  lessened  the  demand  for  staves,  and  there 
were  consequently  very  few  taken  from  England  to 
France,  although  French  vessels  are  in  the  habit  of 
taking  them  for  ballast  at  a  merely  nominal  rate,  ow 
ing  to  the  difficulty  they  experience  in  procuring 
return  freights  from  England.  The  short  crops  in 
Canada  and  the  great  scarcity  of  money,  forced  an 
unusual  number  of  laborers  in  that  country  into  the 
stave  and  lumber  business.  Under  advices  that 
heavy  shipments  were  in  prospect,  coupled  with  the 
general  check  upon  business  on  account  of  the  war, 
prices  became  depressed.  Notwithstanding  all  this, 
the  shipments  hence,  being  early  in  the  market, 
sold  to  advantage,  and  may  therefore  be  considered 
as  a  signal  success,  under  the  circumstances.  The 


Old  Mackinaw.  299 

smallest  vessel  going  out  from  here  netted  a  freight 
of  §3,500. 

The  most  striking  feature  with  -regard  to  Detroit, 
in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  is  her  admirable  loca 
tion,  which  constitutes  her  the  metropolis  of  a  vast 
region,  than  which  no  city  off  the  sea-board  can 
boast  one  equally  grand  or  important.  The  region 
embraces  a  circuit  of  some  three  thousand  miles, 
composed  of  land  and  water,  which  both  seem  to 
vie  with  each  other  in  contributing  to  the  material 
prosperity  of  our  city,  while  every  interest  involved 
is  benefited  in  some  degree  by  her.  In  the  far 
north,  where  the  rugged  coast  of  the  upper  penin 
sula  is  lashed  by  the  waters  of  the  monarch  of  lakes, 
Detroit  enterprise  assists  in  redeeming  the  hidden 
treasures  of  the  earth  from  their  state  of  profitless 
inertion.  There  is  not  a  hardy  delver  in  the  mines 
who  is  not  familiar  with  the  skill  of  Detroit  ma 
chinists,  nor  an  echo  in  all  the  majestic  wilds  skirt 
ing  that  noble  expanse  of  waters,  that  has  not  been 
awakened  by  Detroit  steamers.  Further  down  upon 
the  limpid  waters  of  Lake  Huron,  where  the  army 
or  rather  the  navy  of  fishermen  set  their  nets  for 
the  capture  of  the  finny  tribes,  here,  too,  our  city 
possesses  an  interest  almost  as  direct  as  if  the  canvas 
of  their  tiny  crafts  were  spread  within  sight  of  her 


300  Old  Mackinaw. 

spires,  the  product  comprising  one  of  the  most  im 
portant  staples  in  her  multiform  commerce.  Last, 
but  not  least,  is  the  great  lumber  region  with  which 
the  prosperity  of  Michigan  is  so  largely  identified. 
The  population  of  this  region,  as  well  as  of  the 
others  we  have  referred  to,  raise  almost  literally  no 
thing  for  their  own  consumption,  their  respective 
pursuits  being  inconsistent  with  that  of  tillers  of  the 
soil,  so  that  in  addition  to  the  usual  stores  required 
by  farmers,  they  have  to  purchase  their  breadstuffs 
and  similar  supplies.  The  bulk  of  these  are  bought 
of  our  dealers,  this  being  not  only  the  most  con 
venient,  but  the  cheapest  and  best  market,  as  is 
amply  proven  by  experience. 

Under  the  appropriate  head  will  be  found  a  com 
plete  and  authentic  statement  of  the  commerce  of 
the  Saut  St.  Mary  Canal,  by  which  it  will  be  seen  that 
the  aggregate  value  of  the  up  ward- bound  freight  is 
estimated  at  $5,298,640.  The  up-freight  nearly  all 
carried  by  steamers,  of  which  the  number  running 
the  entire  season  was  seven,  three  from  Detroit,  one 
from  Chicago,  and  three  from  Cleveland.  The-  De 
troit  boats  have  generally  been  loaded  to  their 
utmost  capacity,  while  we  have  the  word  of  the 
Cleveland  captains  to  the  effect  that  two-thirds  of 
their  cargoes  are  usually  taken  on  at  this  port.  We 


Old  Mackinaw.  301 

must  therefore  be  clearly  within  bounds  in  claiming 
that  three-fourths  of  the  above  amount  is  part  and 
parcel  of  the  commerce  of  our  city  which  would 
show  our  Lake  Superior  exports  to  be  $3,960.000. 
In  seasons  in  which  the  crops  of  our  Canadian  neigh 
bors  partially  fail — a  common  occurrence  within  the 
past  few  years,  but  which  we  hope  may  never  occur 
again — they  naturally  become  our  customers;  and 
since  the  partial  destruction  of  the  wheat  crop  in 
Ohio  last  summer  by  frost,  there  have  been_ con 
siderable  shipments  of  breadstuff's  to  Cleveland,  To 
ledo,  Sandusky,  etc.,  which  may  very  properly  be 
included  in  the  home  traffic. 

The  shipments  of  flour  and  grain  for  the  supply 
of  our  home  trade  by  lake  craft,  from  the  opening 
of  navigation  for  the  year  1859,  as  appears  by  the 
books  of  our  Custom  House,  are  as  follows : 


Flour.  Wheat.  Corn. 

Port  Huron 10,885....      253....   6,916 

Saginaw 3,790 30 

Cleveland 6,155. ..  .28,057. ...  1,146 

Thunder  Bay 106 

Green  Bay 175 

Northport 375 

Sandusky 705 

Huron,  0 660 

Toledo 665....      616 

Lake  Superior 11,321 

26 


302  Old  Mackinaw. 

Flour.  Wheat.  Corn. 

Other  Ararican  ports 245 

Maiden 1,289. . . .       160. . .  .14,548 

Chatham 3,671 1,736 

Wallaceburg 705 

Goderich 318....   1,274 

Saugeen 168 

Bayfield 200 

Other  Canadian  ports 1,330....         95....      749 

There  were  also  7,446  bushels  oats  to  Port  Huron, 
and  588  bushels  do.  to  other  ports,  beside  3,400 
bushels  corn,  and  11,962  bushels  oats  which  were 
included  in  the  heavy  shipments  to  Lake  Superior. 
We  give  the  places  for  which  vessels  cleared ;  many 
of  the  shipments  were  for  intermediate  ports.  Be 
sides  the  flour  and  grain  there  were  large  shipments 
of  pork,  butter,  lard,  meal,  etc.,  etc. 

The  above  were  all  by  water.  There  were  in 
addition  large  local  shipments  to  various  points  on 
the  Great  Western,  the  Detroit  and  Milwaukee,  and 
other  roads,  that  may  with  equal  propriety  be  re 
garded  as  pertaining  to  the  home  trade. 

The  article  of  corn  is  one  to  secure  customers,  for 
in  Canada  it  is  not  essential  there  should  be  short 
crops  there.  Large  amounts  are  taken  for  the  sup 
ply  of  the  numerous  distilleries  on  that  side.  A 
single  house  in  our  city  has  sold  the  past  year 
100,000  bushels  for  that  purpose. 


Old  Mackinaw.  303 

During  the  year  commodities  have  been  inter 
changed  by  lake  craft  between  Detroit  and  no  fewer 
than  sixty-three  lake  and  river  ports,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  hundreds  of  towns  and  cities  on  the  various 
railroads  that  are  daily  trading  with  us.  We  have 
not  included  those  ports  to  which  the  bulk  of  our 
surplus  produce  is  forwarded,  but  only  such  as  come 
strictly  within  the  scope  of  our  subject.  There 
are  few  places  where  trade  develops  statistics  of  si 
milar  character,  or  anything  approximating  thereto, 
while  there  are  plenty  of  cities  of  no  inconsiderable 
pretensions,  and  even  great  advantages,  that  would 
think  themselves  made  if  they  possessed  one-fourth 
the  commercial  facilities  we  enjoy. 

Within  the  past  year,  by  the  opening  up  of  new 
and  most  important  channels  of  railway  communi 
cation,  our  position  with  respect  to  the  great  railway 
system  of  the  continent,  is  rendered  all  that  could 
be  desired.  In  that  regard  it  is  indeed  difficult  to 
point  out  how  any  improvement  could  be  made. 
With  respect  to  our  local  advantages,  however, 
admirable  as  they  are,  there  is  yet  much  in  store 
for  us.  The  signs  are  far  more  favorable  than  at 
any  former  period  for  the  rapid  settlement  of  the 
State,  as  well  as  for  the  more  adequate  development 
of  her  resources.  We  are  constantly  receiving  in- 


304  Old  Mackinaw. 

telligence  that  some  new  source  of  wealth  has  been 
revealed  within  our  borders,  or  that  one  previously 
discovered  is  likely  to  surpass  the  expectations  at 
first  entertained.  These  events  must  not  only  tend 
directly  to  hasten  the  settlement  of  the  State,  but 
also  add  in  a  still  greater  ratio  to  her  commercial 
importance  and  her  wealth. 

If  we  were  to  fail  to  refer,  in  this  connection,  to 
the  law  passed  by  our  legislature  last  winter,  pro 
viding  for  the  reclamation  of  the  "swamp  lands," 
technically  so  called,  and  inaugurating  an  admirable 
system  of  State  roads  throughout  all  the  upper  por 
tions  of  the  State,  we  should  be  ignoring  decidedly 
the  most  pregnant  of  the  signs  of  promise.  In 
adopting  so  well-timed  and  beneficent  a  measure, 
our  law-givers  have  proved  themselves  worthy 
guardians  of  a  commonwealth  whose  interests  so 
plainly  bespeak  a  much  greater  degree  of  wise  le 
gislation  than  has  heretofore  been  wielded  for  her 
benefit.  Next  in  importance  to  these  wholesome 
measures,  is  the  law  providing  for  the  appointment 
of  Commissioners  of  Emigration  —  one  resident 
here,  and  the  other  stationed  in  New  York.  Those 
seeking  homes  in  the  West  have  only  to  be  made 
aware  of  the  unequaled  inducements  presented  by 


Old  Mackinaw.  305 

our  State,  to  secure  immense  accessions  to  our  popu 
lation. 

Detroit  does  not  alone  reap  the  benefit  of  her 
advantageous  position.  It  is  shared  by  all  interests, 
but  perhaps  by  none  others  to  so  great  an  extent  as 
the  tillers  of  the  soil.  It  is  a  most  significant  fact 
that  breadstuff's  and  provisions  not  unfrequently 
bring  as  high  prices  here  as  in  New  York,  giving 
producers  all  the  advantages  at  home  of  a  sea-board 
market,  and  virtually  putting  the  cost  of  shipment 
into  their  pockets.  Thus  a  farmer  whose  land  pos 
sesses  a  nominal  value  of  ten  or  twenty  dollars  per 
acre,  can  enjoy  all  the  pecuniary  advantages  of  a 
location  near  one  of  the  largest  eastern  cities,  where 
farms  are  valued  at  one  to  two  hundred  dollars 
per  acre.  This  fact  alone  should  go  very  far  toward 
transforming  our  northern  wilderness  into  cultivated 
fields. 

As  a  matter  of  interest,  and  to  some  extent  of 
curiosity,  we  present  a  comparative  statement  exhi 
biting  the  ruling  prices  of  extra  Michigan  flour 
twice  a  month  throughout  the  year,  in  Detroit,  New 
York  and  Liverpool,  and  also  the  prices  in  the 
latter  market,  for  the  corresponding  dates  in  the 
year  1858 : 
26* 


306 


Old  Mackinaw. 


Liverpool,  '58. 

Liv'l.,  '59. 

N.  York,  '59. 

Detroit,  '59. 

Jan.  1st. 

5  76a6  74 

4  80a5  04 

4  95a5  15 

5  00a5  12 

"  15th. 

5  76a6  24 

4  80a5  04 

5  60a5  85 

5  00a5  12 

Feb.  1st. 

5  76a6  24 

4  80a5  04 

5  90a6  40 

5  75a6  00 

"  15th. 

5  52a6  00 

4  80a5  04 

5  90a6  25 

6  25a6  50 

Mar'h  1st. 

5  52a6  24 

4  80a5  04 

6  30a6  50 

6  25a6  50 

"  15th. 

5  52a6  24 

4  80a5  04 

6  50a6  75 

6  50a6  75 

April  1st. 

5  28a5  52 

4  80a5  04 

6  30a6  75 

a6  75 

"  15th. 

5  28a5  76 

4  80a5  04 

6  00a6  60 

a6  50 

May  1st. 

5  28a5  52 

5  04a5  28 

6  25a6  75 

a650 

"  15th. 

5  28a5  52 

6  00a6  24 

7  30a7  85 

a800 

June  1st. 

5  04a5  28 

a5  76 

7  00a7  40 

a750 

"  15th. 

5  04a5  28 

a5  76 

6  70a7  05 

7  12a7  25 

July  1st. 

5  04a5  28 

a 

6  00a6  50 

a7  25 

"  15th. 

5  08a5  40 

5  04a5  28 

5  45a6  00 

7  00a7  12 

Aug.  1st. 

5  28a5  40 

4  80a5  52 

4  90a5  50 

4  75a4  87 

"  15th. 

5  04a5  28 

5  04a5  52 

4'30a4  65 

4  50a4  75 

Sept.  1st. 

5  16a5  40 

5  04a5  52 

4  40a5  00 

4  62a4  75 

"  15th. 

5  16a5  40 

4  80a5  52 

4  65a4  85 

4  25a4  50 

Oct.  1st. 

5  04a5  28 

5  28a5  76 

4  75a5  10 

4  62a4  75 

"  15th. 

5  04a5  28 

5  28a5  76 

4  80a5  20 

a475 

Nov.  1st. 

5  04a5  28 

5  52a6  00 

5  00a5  30 

a500 

"  15th. 

4  80a5  04 

5  76a6  24 

5  24a5  45 

a512 

Dec.  1st. 

4  80a5  04 

6  76a7  00 

5  45a5  65 

a5  12 

"  15th. 

4  80a5  04 

6  76a7  00 

5  48a5  65 

a512 

The  Detroit  mills  manufacture  excellent  flour, 
and  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  they  are  not  capable 
of  making  a  much  larger  quantity  of  their  well- 
known  brands.  There  are  six  flouring  mills  of  dif 
ferent  capacities  in  the  city,  and  although  they  are 
generally  at  full  work  such  is  the  demand  for  flour 
they  make,  that  they  are  very  often  not  able  to 


Old  Mackinaw.  307 

supply  their  customers.  These  mills  ought  to  be 
enlarged,  or  others  built.  Detroit,  the  commercial 
metropolis  of  a  great  wheat-growing  State,  should 
be  capable  of  manufacturing  an  immense  quantity 
of  flour.  The  increased  expenditure  of  money,  in 
the  purchase  of  wheat,  would  be  very  beneficial  to 
the  trade  of  the  city. 

For  the  last  fifteen  years,  the  exports  of  bread- 
stuffs  from  the  United  States  have  fluctuated  very 
much.  In  1846  they  amounted  to  nearly  twenty- 
eight  millions  of  dollars,  and  rose  in  1847  to  sixty- 
nine  millions.  In  1848  they  fell  to  thirty-seven, 
and  in  1852  to  twenty-six  millions.  In  1853  they 
amounted  to  nearly  thirty-three  millions,  and  in 

1854  they  rose  to   about  sixty-millions,  but  fell  in 

1855  to  about  thirty-nine  millions,  and  again  rose  in 
1857  to  seventy-seven  millions.     In  1858  they  again 
declined  to  about  fifty  millions.     We  cannot  accu 
rately  detail   the  exports  of   1859,  but  they   have 
been  very  light  on  account  of  fall  in  the  European 
market,  after  the  termination  of  the  war  in  Italy. 
During  these  years  there  were  various  causes  for 
the  remarkable  fluctuations  which  we  have  noted ; 
namely,  famine  in  Ireland,  the  Crimean  war,  and 
the  failures  of  the  harvest  at  home  and  abroad,  nor 
have  these  exportations  been  regularly  divided  or 


308  Old  Mackinaw. 

spread  over  the  various  months  of  each  year.  They 
have  increased  or  diminished  according  to  the  Eu 
ropean  demand,  governed  by  the  supply  at  home 
and  regulatecj  by  advices  from  the  other  side  of  the 
Atlantic.  It  is  likely  that  the  export  of  breadstuffs 
in  1860  will  be  very  considerable. 

Michigan  possesses  many  advantages  over  her 
sister  States,  and  these  enable  her  to  bear  up  against 
monetary  panics  better  than  they.  Her  immense 
length  of  lake  coast  is  indented  with  excellent  har 
bors,  which  invite  commerce  from  every  quarter, 
and  furnish  excellent  outlets  for  her  surplus  produce 
or  mineral  wealth.  The  great  and  diversified  re 
sources  of  the  State  support  her  in  the  evil  day,  and 
bring  her  through  a  commercial  crisis  in  safety. 
From  the  ushering  in  of  the  year  to  the  close,  there 
is  not  a  day  in  which  the  marts  of  commerce  are  not 
enlivened  by  the  contributions  of  grain  or  live  stock 
from  our  fields,  fish  from  our  lakes,  lumber  from 
our  forests,  or  ores  of  various  kinds  from  our  inex 
haustible  mines. 

According  to  the  census  returns  of  1840,  the 
State  of  Michigan  produced  2,157,108  bushels  of 
wheat,  there  were  190  flouring  mills  at  work,  em 
ploying  491  hands,  and  producing  202,880  barrels 
of  flour  annually.  In  1853  this  State  produced 


Old  Mackinaw.  309 

7,275,032  bushels  of  wheat,  there  were  245  flouring 
mills  at  work,  employing  604  persons,  and  manu 
facturing  1,000,000  barrels  of  flour  in  a  year.  It 
will  be  seen  that  the  flouring  mills  have  increased 
greatly  both  in  number  and  capacity  since  1840, 
and  that  very  large  quantities  of  flour  are  now  ma 
nufactured  in  the  interior  of  the  State,  a  circum 
stance  which  partly  accounts  for  the  comparatively 
small  quantity  of  wheat  that  is  now  exported.  The 
number  of  flouring  mills  have  doubtless  increased 
since  1853,  and  as  steam  power  has  been  applied  in 
many  instances  their  manufacturing  capacity  must 
now  be  very  great.  Farmers  are  beginning  to  un 
derstand  the  importance  of  disposing  of  their  pro 
duce  near  home,  and  having  the  surplus  exported 
in  a  manufactured  state,  instead  of  sending  away  the 
raw  material ;  the  bran  and  "  shorts"  being  very 
valuable  for  mixing  with  the  food  of  horses,  cattle, 
and  swine.  A  flouring  mill  is  a  great  benefit  in  a 
rural  district,  it  furnishes  the  farmer  with  a  home 
market,  and  when  he  receives  the  price  of  his  pro 
duce,  there  are  many  domestic  wants  which  must  be 
supplied,  and  on  this  account  we  always  see  stores 
and  mechanics'  shops  clustering  around  a  mill,  and 
villages  springing  up  in  places  where  the  solitude 
of  the  forest  was,  until  lately,  unbroken  by  a  sound. 


31  o  Old    Mackinaw. 

It  is  evident  that  the  mill  power  of  Michigan  is  in 
creasing  rapidly,  and  that  in  future  the  greater  part 
of  the  surplus  grain  crop  will  be  exported  in  a  ma 
nufactured  state. 

In  former  years  the  prices  of  grain  in  the  United 
States  were  controlled  by  the  European  markets, 
and  consequently  the  grain  trade  of  the  Western 
States  was  governed  by  the  produce  merchants  in 
the  Atlantic  ports,  but  lately  the  whole  order  of 
things  seems  to  have  been  reversed,  as  breadstuffs 
of  every  kind  were  dearer  in  the  Western  than  in 
the  Eastern  markets.  There  were  several  reasons 
for  this  anomaly.  On  account  of  the  ravages  of 
insects,  and  other  causes  which  we  have  alluded  to, 
farmers  were  induced  to  place  very  little  reliance 
on  the  wheat  crop,  and  many  were  driven  into  other 
branches  of  husbandry,  and  in  some  places  wheat 
became  scarce.  Add  to  this  the  rapid  increase  of 
the  population  which  created  a  local  demand  for  all 
kinds  of  food,  and  caused  immense  quantities  of 
breadstuffs  to  be  required  in  places  where  a  few 
years  before  there  was  no  market  for  anything. 
The  rapid  and  extraordinary  growth  of  Detroit  and 
all  the  Western  cities,  and  the  formation  of  new 
settlements,  created  a  home  market  for  Western 
produce,  for  the  population  of  cities  being  consu- 


Old  Mackinaw.  311 

mers  of  the  fruits  of  the  land,  instead  of  producers, 
have  always  a  wonderful  effect  on  the  markets  of 
their  localities,  and  the  pioneers  in  the  forest  or 
prairie  must  for  a  time  depend  on  the  older  settle 
ments  for  subsistence. 

From  a  defective  system  of  agriculture  the  soil 
of  the  old  States  has  been  deteriorating  for  several 
years.  In  Massachusetts  the  hay  crop  declined  twelve 
per  cent,  from  1840  to  1850,  notwithstanding  the  ad 
dition  of  90,000  acres  of  mowing  lands  and  the  grain 
crop  depreciated  6000  bushels,  although  no  less  than 
6000  acres  had  been  added  to  the  tillage  lands  of  that 
State. 

In  18-40  the  wheat  crop  of  New  York  was  about 
twelve  and  a  quarter  millions  of  bushels,  and  only 
nine  millions  in  1850,  a  decrease  of  25  per  cent., 
while  the  Indian  corn  in  the  same  State  increased 
during  the  same  period  from  about  ten  to  twenty 
millions  of  bushels.  The  harvest  of  1859,  found 
several  parts  of  the  country  entirely  destitute  of 
flour,  and  the  farmers  with  a  fixed  and  firm  deter 
mination  never  again  to  allow  themselves  to  run  out 
of  the  staff  of  life. 

The  number  and  capacity  of  the  flouring  mills  have 
increased  considerably  since  1853,  so  that  it  is  pro 
bable  that  there  are  at  present  more  than  three  hun- 


312  Old  Mackinaw. 

dred  of  them  at  work  in  the  State,  and  the  number 
of  hands  employed  by  them  cannot  be  much  less 
than  twelve  hundred.  It  is  probable  that  they  are 
now  capable  of  manufacturing  1,25,000  barrels  of 
flour  annually,  and  this  quantity  would  require 
5,625,000  bushels  of  wheat.  Add  to  this  the  large 
quantity  of  seed  required  for  sowing  an  increased 
breadth  of  land,  and  the  portion  of  the  crop  kept  for 
domestic  use,  and  the  result  will  be  sufficient  to  ex 
plain  the  reason  why  so  little  wheat  has  been  ex 
ported  from  Michigan  this  season.  There  are  about 
50,000  families  in  this  State  who  depend  on  agri 
culture  for  subsistence  ;  all  of  these  had  suffered  more 
or  less  inconvenience  form  failure  of  the  wheat  crop, 
and  the  high  price  of  flour  for  the  last  few  years,  and 
it  is  no  wonder  that  they  should  endeavor  to  secure 
a  fall  supply  of  wheat  or  flour  of  the  produce  of  the 
late  harvest,  and  a  very  large  portion  of  the  crop 
was  disposed  of  in  this  way. 

Since  the  Reciprocity  Treaty  came  into  operation, 
thre  has  been  considerable  exportation  of  flour  from 
Detroit  to  Canada  on  account  of  the  repeated  failures 
of  the  wheat  crop  in  that  country,  and  thus  a  new 
market  for  Michigan  produce  has  been  opened  near 
home. 

Some  of  these  sources  of  demand  are  trifling  when 


Old  Mackinaw.  313 

standing  alone,  but  the  aggregate  makes  a  very 
large  amount.  It  is  considered  that  about  half 
the  produce  of  the  wheat  crop  still  remains  in  the 
hands  of  the  farmers  and  may  be  expected  to  reach 
the  market  gradually. 

Michigan  wants  woolen  and  cotton,  and  various 
other  factories  to  provide  employment  for  the  over 
crowded  population  of  her  cities  and  villages,  and  to 
open  a  market  for  all  her  produce.  The  farmers  of 
Great  Britain  and  Ireland  could  not  pay  the  high 
rents  and  taxes  which  are  imposed  on  them,  were  it 
not  far  their  proximity  to  the  great  manufacturing 
cities  of  England.  The  cotton  factories  of  Manches 
ter,  the  woolen  factories  of  Leeds  and  Huddersfield, 
the  hardware  works  of  Birmingham  and  Sheffield, 
and  the  potteries  of  Staffordshire,  employ  hundreds 
of  thousands  of  men,  women,  and  children,  who  con 
sume  the  fruits  of  the  soil,  and  create  a  steady  de 
mand  for  the  farmer's  stock  and  grain.  All  these 
manufactures  were  fostered  by  protective  laws  until 
they  had  attained  a  magnitude  and  importance  which 
enabled  them  to  protect  themselves  by  the  wealth  of 
their  proprietors  and  the  excellence  of  their  pro 
ducts.  Large  cities  always  afford  a  market  for 
farm  produce,  and  on  this  account  exert  a  very  bene 
ficial  influence  on  agriculture.  The  population  of 


314  Old    Mackinaw. 

London  is  about  two  and  a  half  millions,  and  they  are 
possessed  of  so  much  wealth,  and  are  so  fastidious  in 
their  requirements,  that  almost  every  part  of  the 
world  contributes  to  supply  them  with  the  necessaries 
or  luxuries  of  life.  The  rapid  growth  of  the  cities  of 
Michigan  afford  a  home  market  for  the  fruits  of  the 
the  soil.  A  great  deal  of  land  in  the  old  settlements 
of  this  State  has  been  exhausted  by  a  too  frequent 
repetition  of  the  wheat  crop,  and  is  now  being  em 
ployed  as  pasture  for  sheep  and  cattle.  After  re 
maining  in  grass  for  a  few  years,  this  land  will  be 
in  excellent  condition  for  producing  wheat,  especi 
ally  when  fertilized  with  that  plentiful  supply  of 
barn-yard  dung  which  the  raising  of  stock  always 
produces. 

There  are  some  varieties  of  wheat  which  are  much 
better  suited  to  the  climate  and  soil  of  Michigan  than 
others,  as  they  are  in  a  great  measure  able  to  with 
stand  the  combined  attacks  of  wheat  insects  and  the 
various  diseases  to  which  the  plant  is  liable.  These 
are  now  fast  supplanting  the  worn  out  grain,  and  as 
every  malady  has  its  cure  or  preventive,  it  is  proba 
ble  that  the  introduction  of  the  best  kind  of  seeds, 
the  alternation  between  grass  and  tillage,  and  the 
supply  of  rich  manure  which  the  raising  of  stock 
creates  will  have  a  very  great  tendency  to  improve 
the  wheat  crop  of  this  State. 


Old   Mackinaw.  315 

It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  although  the  wheat 
crop  has  rather  declined  in  the  majority  of  States, 
the  corn  crop  has  steadily  increased  in  all  of  them. 
Thus  in  1840,  the  entire  corn  crop  of  the  United 
States  amounted  to  400,000,000  of  bushels ;  in  1850 
it  was  nearly  600,000,000  of  bushels.  The  crop  of 
1855  was  between  7  and  800,000,000,  and  that  of 

1858  was  fully  800,000,000  of  bushels.    Taking  into 
consideration  the  large  breadth  of  land  planted  in 

1859  and  the  damage   by  the  frost,  we  might  with 
safety  set  down  the  crop  as  amounting  to  800,000,000 
bushels. 

Last  year  our  importations  from  Indiana  were 
large,  but  since  the  new  crop  came  in,  that  State 
has  been  shipping  largely  toward  the  Ohio  River, 
and  we  get  comparatively  little.  The  immense  dis 
tilleries  of  Cincinnati  consume  a  very  large  quantity 
of  corn  annually,  and  Indiana  is  beginning  to  find  a 
good  market  in  that  quarter.  The  demand  for  Mi 
chigan  corn  is  always  active  on  account  of  its  excel 
lent  milling  qualities,  and  on  this  account  it  gener 
ally  sells  from  wagons  as  high,  or  a  shade  higher 
than  the  outside  figure  for  Western  corn  from  store. 
The  corn  crop  of  Illinois  has  been  much  injured  by 
the  frosts  of  June  and  July,  and  on  this  account  the 
receipts  in  Chicago  up  to  this  date  have  been  much 


316  Old  Mackinaw. 

lighter  than  usual.  The  European  potato  crop  has 
been  greatly  damaged  by  rot,  and  it  is  probable  that 
a  large  export  of  corn  will  take  place  from  this 
country  in  order  to  supply  a  deficiency  occasioned 
by  this  failure.  It  is  said  that  several  New  York 
capitalists  have  gone  west  and  purchased  corn  and 
provisions,  storing  them  up  until  next  spring,  anti 
cipating  at  that  time  a  considerable  advance  in  price. 
The  generality  of  farmers  have  sorted  their  corn 
carefully  this  year  and  used  up  the  unripe  and  infe 
rior  part  for  feeding  hogs  and  cattle  :  there  is  a 
large  quantity  of  very  good  corn  in  the  country, 
which  will  no  doubt  command  a  good  price  in  the 
spring. 

Indian  corn  is  one  of  the  staple  productions  of 
Michigan,  and  can  be  raised  with  success  in  any 
suitable  soil  in  the  lower  peninsula.  According  to 
the  statistics  of  1850  this  State  produced  nearly 
6,000,000  of  bushels  that  year.  It  is  probable  that 
the  census  of  the  present  year  will  show  a  vast 
increase  in  the  amount.  In  1850  the  value  of  this 
crop  in  all  the  States  amounted  to  nearly  $300,000- 
000,  being  about  equal  to  the  tfnited  values  of  the 
wheat,  hay,  and  cotton  crops,  and  it  has  perhaps 
doubled  since  that  date.  In  fact  the  value  of  the 
corn  crop  to  Michigan  and  all  the  other  States  can- 


Old  Mackinaw.  317 

not  be  estimated,  as  it  is  much  used  for  the  food  of 
man  and  all  the  domestic  animals,  and  to  it  the 
American  farmer  is  indebted  for  much  of  his  pros 
perity,  for  without  it  he  would  not  be  able  to  bring 
his  cattle  and  hogs  into  the  market  at  the  right  time 
and  in  proper  condition. 

Heretofore  the  amount  of  pork  packed  has  al 
ways  been  insufficient  to  meet  the  demand,  and  the 
deficiency  has  been  supplied  by  importations  from 
other  cities,  chiefly  from  Cincinnati.  This  season 
not  only  has  there  been  a  considerable  increase  in 
the  number  packed,  but  the  market  opens  a  great 
deal  duller  than  last  year,  when  the  Canada  trade 
and  the  building  of  the  Detroit  and  Port  Huron 
link  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  induced  a  fair 
demand. 

Cincinnati  is  the  greatest  provision  maket  on  the 
continent  or  in  the  world.  At  that  place  specula 
tion  has  been  quite  rife  for  the  past  two  or  three 
years,  operators  obtaining  a  controlling  interest  in 
the  stock  for  the  purpose  of  putting  up  prices.  Last 
year  the  plan  did  not  work  well,  owing  to  various 
causes,  one  of  which  was  the  small  number  of  works 
in  progress,  such  as  railroads,  etc.,  the  supply  of  the 
laborers  upon  such  works,  being  the  life  of  the  provi 
sion  trade.  Heavy  losses  were  sustained,  bat  it  is  said 
27* 


31 8  Old  Mackinaw. 

that  the  sufferers  were  a  different  class  from  that  re 
gularly  engaged  in  the  trade.  This  season  the  specu 
lative  fever  has  again  prevailed.  The  issue  has  yet 
to  be  revealed. 

Last  year  nearly  1,000  head  of  cattle  were  slaugh 
tered  here,  all  of  which  were  forwarded  to  Lake  Su 
perior  as  soon  as  packed.  The  price  of  mess  beef 
has  ranged  from  $8.50  to  $12.00.  About  the  first  of 
July  prices  reached  their  highest  point.  During  the 
fall  the  range  has  been  from  $8.50  to  $10.00. 

When  the  marshy  lands,  skirting  our  water 
courses  in  St.  Clair,  Macomb,  Wayne,  and  Monroe 
counties,  shall  have  been  drained,  (which  will,  no 
doubt,  be  consummated  at  no  distant  day,)  a  large 
tract  will  be  rendered  available  for  grazing,  which 
will  prove  equal  for  that  purpose  to  any  in  the 
Union.  Butter  and  cheese  will  then  become  a  lead 
ing  article  in  our  commerce. 

Potatoes  constitute  another  of  our  staple  products, 
and,  in  seasons  of  scarcity  elsewhere,  large  purchases 
are  made  for  shipment,  but  being  generally  based 
on  present  demand,  they  can  hardly  be  called  specu 
lative.  The  crop  of  1857  was  rather  meagre,  and 
last  spring  and  summer  prices  ruled  high,  going  up 
to  $1.20  for  a  short  time  in  June.  Last  year  we 
had  an  abundant  crop,  since  which,  under  a  limited 


Old  Mackinaw.  319 

export  demand,  prices  have  ruled  low.  The  receipts 
at  this  point,  from  all  sources,  did  not  vary  greatly 
from  175,000  bushels,  of  which  80,500  bushels  were 
exported,  chiefly  to  Ohio  and  the  upper  country. 

It  is  claimed,  that  southern  Michigan  produces 
more  fine  fruit  than  any  other  locality  of  the  same 
extent  in  the  United  States,  if  not  on  the  globe. 
At  the  same  time  almost  every  quarter  of  the  State 
is  constantly  improving  both  in  quality  and  quan 
tity.  This  fact  is  creditable  to  the  sagacity  of  our 
agriculturists,  for  probably  in  nothing  else  can  an 
equal  amount  of  profit  be  realized  with  the  same 
outlay. 

Our  market  is  not  an  important  one  for  live  stock, 
much  of  the  greater  share  of  the  receipts  by  rail 
being  through  freight.  Our  wholesale  market  is 
mainly  governed  by  that  at  the  East,  buyers  for  ship 
ment  are  always  on  the  look-out,  and  whenever  any 
thing  can  be  purchased  that  affords  even  a  moderate 
margin,  it  is  promptly  taken.  Extra  cattle  are  al 
ways  sought  for  by  our  butchers,  and  command  full 
rates.  A  spirit  of  emulation  on  the  subject  of  fine 
stock  is  pervading  the  minds  of  our  farmers,  and,  as 
a  consequence,  its  quality  is  rapidly  improving.  At 
the  last  State  Fair,  the  display  of  cattle  was  such  as 
to  elicit  the  admiration  of  good  judges  from  abroad. 


320  Old  Mackinaw. 

There  are  so  many  interests  claiming  the  attention 
of  our  agriculturists,  that  the  idea  of  becoming 
famous  as  to  quantity,  is  perhaps  precluded ;  if  so, 
they  may  well  rest  content  in  the  attainment  of  high 
rank  in  point  of  quality. 

The  raising  of  fine  sheep  is  constantly  attracting 
more  and  more  attention,  and  from  the  progress 
already  made  by  our  State,  she  bids  fair  at  no  dis 
tant  day  to  take  a  position  in  advance  of  all  her 
sister  States, 

The  year  1859  opened  with  rather  flattering  pros 
pects  for  wool-growers.  The  last  year's  stock  was 
nearly  exhausted  before  the  new  clip  came  into  the 
market.  Prices  of  woolen  fabrics  were  advancing, 
and  bid  fair  to  rule  high.  On  the  eve  of  the  wool 
season  prices  declined  in  the  Eastern  markets,  al 
though  there  was  110  particular  reason  for  this  unfa 
vorable  turn.  It  was  considered  at  the  time,  that 
the  fall  in  prices  was  occasioned  by  a  regular  combi 
nation  among  buyers  to  break  down  the  market. 
The  news  of  the  passage  of  the  Ticino  by  the  Aus- 
trians,  and  the  actual  commencement  of  hostilities 
in  Italy,  arrived  in  this  country  before  the  wool  was 
brought  into  the  market,  and  this  circumstance  was 
seized  on  as  a  pretext  for  lowering  the  price  of  the 
new  clip.  Buvers  were  very  industrious  in  circulat- 


Old  Mackinaw.  321 

ing  reports  that  a  general  European  war  was  com 
mencing,  and,  as  it  was  not  known  how  affairs  would 
terminate,  it  would  be  unsafe  for  American  buyers 
to  make  investments  in  the  wool  trade,  except  at 
prices  that  would  leave  a  large  margin  for  profit. 
It  was  fortunate  that  farmers  did  not  take  the  same 
view  of  transatlantic  complications,  for  they  re 
fused  to  sell  except  at  remunerating  prices,  a  deci 
sion  which  caused  some  of  the  Eastern  buyers  to 
retire  from  the  market  in  disgust.  Almost  the  en 
tire  press  of  Michigan  supported  the  views  of  the 
farmers  on  this  occasion,  and  declared  that  they 
could  see  no  reason  why  the  war  in  Italy  should 
affect  the  prices  of  wool  in  America,  especially  as  all 
the  domestic  clip,  and  a  very  large  quantity  of 
foreign  wool  would  be  manufactured  in  this  country. 
Michigan  produces  excellent  wool.  There  are  nu 
merous  flocks  of  French,  Spanish,  and  Saxon  Meri 
nos  in  this  State,  which  have  been  selected  or  bred 
with  the  greatest  'care,  and  the  wool  produced  by 
them  cannot  be  surpassed  in  any  of  the 'Western 
States.  There  are  also  flocks  of  coarse-wooled  sheep 
which  produce  heavy  fleeces,  and  when  fattened  for 
the  butcher  make  excellent  mutton.  In  1840  the 
wool  clip  of  this  State  was  about  150,000  Ibs.,  in 
1850  something  over  2,000,000  Ibs.,  and  1859  it 


322  Old  Mackinaw. 

amounted  to  nearly  4,000,000  Ibs.  It  will  be  seen 
by  these  figures  that  it  has  nearly  doubled  during 
the  last  nine  years.  There  are  but  few  woolen  ma 
nufactories  in  Michigan,  and  the  most  of  the  wool 
clip  of  this  State  is  purchased  by  Eastern  manufac 
turers.  A  considerable  portion  of  it  goes  to  Boston 
and  other  parts  of  Massachusetts.  We  want  a  large 
woolen  factory  in  Detroit,  where  everything  that  is 
necessary  for  its  operation  can  be  easily  procured. 
We  want  more  manufactories  of  every  kind  in  Mi 
chigan. 

Our  city  is  largely  interested  in  the  shipping  busi 
ness,  and  its  trade  gives  employment  to  a  larger 
number  of  side-wheel  steamboat  lines  than  any  other 
three  cities  on  the  entire  chain  of  lakes.  During  the 
last  season,  the  following  regular  lines  of  steamers 
were  in  successful  operation  : 

Detroit  and  Cleveland,  Detroit,  G.  Bay  and  Buffalo, 

Detroit  and  Toledo.  Detroit,  and  Lake  Superior. 

Detroit  and  Sandusky.  Detroit  .and  Port  Huron. 

Detroit  and  Saginaw.  Detroit  and  Chatham. 

Detroit  and  New  Baltimore.  Detroit  and  Wallaceburg. 

Detroit  and  Maiden.  Detroit  and  Gibraltar. 

Two  of  the  above  routes  sustain  opposition  lines, 
and  to  the  list  might  be  added  the  line  of  lake  stea 
mers  to  Buffalo,  and  the  line  to  Goderich,  which 
though  not  run  last  year,  will  probably  be  in  sue- 


Old  Mackinaw.  323 

cessful  operation  the  coming  season,  making  in  all 
sixteen  lines.  It  is  significant  that  the  late  financial 
revulsion,  which  fell  with  such  crushing  weight  upon 
the  shipping  interest  all  over  the  country  did  not 
occasion  the  withdrawal  of  any  of  our  steamboat  lines, 
save  one.  As  a  still  more  striking  fact,  we  may  state 
that  until  last  season  none  of  the  cities  located  in  the 
vast  region  between  the  foot  of  Lake  Michigan  and 
the  foot  of  Lake  Erie,  has  for  many  years  past  sup 
ported  a  single  line  of  steamers  that  did  not  make 
Detroit  a  terminus.  Last  year  a  line  was  put  in  suc 
cessful  operation  between  Buffalo  and  Cleveland, 
and  another  between  the  latter  place  and  Toledo, 
but  it  ought  to  be  added  that  both  of  these  were  es 
tablished  by  Detroit  enterprise. 

In  addition  to  the  line  above  enumerated,  we  have 
daily  lines  of  propellers  to  Ogdensburg,  Buffalo, 
Dunkirk  and  to  the  Upper  Lakes,  which  do  an  im 
mense  freighting  business. 

"We  are  indebted  to  Captain  J.  H.  Hall,  the  public- 
spirited  proprietor  of  the  Detroit  shipping-office  for 
following  statement  of  the  number  of  vessels  that 
passed  Detroit  in  1859  : 


324 


Old  Mackinaw. 


Number  of   Vessels  passing  Detroit,  1859. 

No.  Times.  No.  Times. 


Steamers  passed  up,  194 

Propellers,            "  492 

Barks,  273 

Brigs                      "  295 

Schooners,            "  1,811 

Total  number  up,  3,065 


Steamers  passed  down,  195 

Propellers,            "  503 

Barks,                    "  284 

Brigs,  314 

Schooners,             "  1,825 

Total  number  down,  3,121 


Cl'd. 

70 

July 

Arrived. 

403 

Cl'd. 

597 

71 

461 

519 

288 

Sept 

.   316 

481 

375 

Oct 

288 

319 

586 

Nov 

294 

316 

568 

Dec.. 

.  45 

71 

Greatest  number  passed  up  in  one  day,  eighty- 
five  ;  greatest  number  down,  seventy-three. 

The  number  of  entries  and  clearances  reported  at 
the  Custom  House  during  the  year  is  as  follows  : 

Arrived. 

Jan 48 

Feb 49 

March 161 

April 334 

May 438 

June 458 

During  the  past  year  the  amount  of  total  losses 
has  been  light,  not  greater,  probably,  than  the  num 
ber  of  vessels  built,  so  that  although  the  classifica 
tion  is  slightly  changed,  there  is  no  material  change 
so  far  as  concerns  the  aggregate  tonnage.  Detroit 
owns,  therefore,  nearly  one-sixth  of  the  entire  tonnage  if* 
the  lakes. 

As  a  matter  of  some  interest  we  present  a  com 
parative  statement  showing  the  tonnage,  steam,  and 


Old  Mackinaw.  325 

total,  of  a  number  of  the  more  important  maritime 
places  in  the  country,  taken  from  the  report  of  the 
Register  of  the  Treasury  on  Commerce  and  Naviga 
tion  : 

Steam  tonnage.  Total  tonnage. 

New  York 118,638  1,432,705 

New  Orleans 70,072  210,411 

Philadelphia 22,892  219,851 

Baltimore 18,821  194,488 

Pittsburg 42,474  56,824 

Cincinnati 23,136  26,541 

Chicago 8,151  67,001 

St.  Louis 55,515  61,266 

Boston 9,452  448,896 

Buffalo 42,640  73,478 

Detroit 35,266  62,485 

Charleston,  S.  C 8,230  60,196 

The  following  exhibits  the  number  and  tonnage 
of  vessels  owned  in  this  district — nearly  all  of  them 
in  this  city — on  the  31st  of  December,  1859  : 

Number  Tons.     95ths 

Steamers 73  29,175  02 

Propellers 32  6,09081 

Barks 4  1,337  08 

Brigs 7  1,877  75 

Schooners 131  19,671  56 

Scows  and  all  others 136  4,322  68 

Total 383  62,485  05 

In  1857 301  52,991  50 


Increase  in  two  years 82  9,493  50 

28 


326  Old  Mackinaw. 

The  following  was  the  aggregate  tonnage  of  the 
lakes  in  December  1858  : 

AMERICAN. 

69  Side-wheel  steamers  register  tons 44,562 

110  Propellers do 45,562 

70  Tugs  (propellers) do 6,880 

46  Barks do 18,788 

79  Brigs do 22,558 

711  Schooners do 166,725 

109  Scows...  do 11,848 


1194         Total 316,923 

CANADIAN. 

67  Side-wheel  steamers,  register  tons 25,966 

16  Propellers do 4,631 

4  Tugs  (propellers) do 388 

19  Barks do 5,697 

16  Brigs. do 2,988 

186  Schooners do 19,311 

13  Scows...                                do.  609 


321         Total 59,580 

The  Michigan  Central  was  the  first  railroad  built 
in  the  State,  and  since  its  completion  has  been  known 
as  one  of  the  best  managed  in  the  West.  Its  bene 
ficial  effects  to  the  region  of  country  through  which 
it  passes,  is  incalculable.  On  its  line,  have  sprung 
up  a  number  of  beautiful  towns  and  villages  as  if  by 
magic,  while  many  of  those  that  had  an  existence 
prior  to  its  construction  have  grown  into  flourishing 
cities.  Ypsilanti,  Ann  Arbor,  Jackson,  Marshall. 


Old  Mackinaw.  327 

Battle  Creek,  Albion,  Kalamazoo,  Niles,  and  others 
that  might  properly  be  included,  all  located  upon  this 
road,  are  beautiful  places,  noted  for  their  thrift  and 
enterprise  as  well  as  for  their  rapid  advances  in  all  that 
pertains  to  well-regulated  cities.  Their  commerce 
is  rapidly  increasing  and  the  country  along  the  en 
tire  route  will  vie  with  that  traversed  by  the  great 
throughfares  of  any  of  the  older  States  along  the  sea 
board. 

The  Central  was  commenced  and  partially  built 
by  the  State,  but  in  1844,  passed  into  the  possession 
of  the  company  now  owning  it,  who  completed  it  to 
Chicago.  A  telegraph  line  has  been  in  use  for  some 
years  past  along  the  entire  line  of  the  road,  with  an 
office  at  each  station,  by  which  means  the  exact  posi 
tion  of  each  train  may  be  at  all  times  known  at  each 
and  every  point.  To  this  admirable  system  may  be 
attributed  in  a  very  great  degree  the  extraordinary 
exemption  of  the  road  from  serious  accidents,  while 
its  advantages  are  very  great  in  every  point  of  view 
respecting  the  general  management.  The  eastern 
terminus  of  the  road  being  at  Detroit,  it  has  the  full 
advantages  of  the  numerous  connections  at  this  point, 
the  Great  Western  and  Grand  Trunk  Kailways,  the 
important  steamboat  route  from  Cleveland,  the  lines 
of  Detroit  and  Buffalo  propellers  with  their  immense 


328  Old  Mackinaw. 

freight  traffic,  as  well  as  the  numerous  other  steam 
boat  routes  of  which  our  city  is  the  nucleus.  At 
Chicago  it  has  the  advantages  of  connection  with 
all  the  roads  radiating  from  that  flourishing  city. 
Freight  is  now  taken  from  Chicago  to  Portland  with 
out  breaking  bulk  but  once.  An  important  "feeder" 
is  the  Joliet  Cut-off,  by  means  of  which  it  has  a 
direct  connection  with  St.  Louis,  via  the  Chicago, 
Alton,  and  St.  Louis  Railroad.  An  important  ar 
rangement  was  consummated  last  summer  with  the 
latter  road,  for  the  direct  transmission  of  freight  be 
tween  this  city  and  St.  Louis.  Fifty  cars  have  been 
diverted  to  this  route,  under  the  name  of  the  "  De 
troit  and  St.  Louis  Through  Freight  Line."  The 
time  between  the  two  cities  is  thirty-eight  hours. 
The  advantages  of  this  line  to  shippers  are  very  con 
siderable,  and  the  arrangement  is  adding,  and  will 
continue  to  add,  materially  to  the  commerce  of  our 
city. 

A  commendable  progressive  spirit  has  latterly 
been  evinced  by  the  managers  generally,  of  our  rail 
roads,  in  the  transmission  of  freight,  especially  live 
stock  and  grain.  The  improvement  is  a  most  grate 
ful  one  to  shippers,  who  have  ordinarily  quite  enough 
anxiety  and  vexation  to  suffer  in  the  fluctuations  of 
the  market  and  subjection  to  unlocked  for  and 


Old  Mackinaw.  329 

onerous  charges,  without  having  superadded  unrea 
sonable  exposure  and  deterioration  of  their  property 
while  en  route  to  market.  In  this  movement  the 
management  of  the  Central  has  fully  sympathized. 
Their  stock  and  grain  cars  have  received  high  com 
mendations  from  those  for  whose  benefit  they  were 
intended.  The  entire  equipment  of  the  road  is  such 
as  to  comport  with  them ;  the  safety,  comfort  and 
convenience  of  the  public,  being  constantly  kept  in 
view,  regardless  of  the  cost  incurred. 

The  three  staunch  and  magnificent  steamers  be 
longing  to  the  company,  the  Plymouth  Bock,  West 
ern  World  and  Mississippi,  owing  to  the  hard  times 
have  been  laid  up  at  their  dock  since  the  fall  of 
1857,  to  the  great  regret  of  the  public  generally,  as 
well  as  to  the  detriment  of  the  business  interest  of 
our  city.  With  the  return  of  a  more  prosperous  era 
they  will  doubtless  be  again  placed  in  commission. 
The  line  formed  by  these  boats  is  the  most  pleasant 
and  expeditious  medium  of  communication  between 
the  East  and  the  West  and  Southwest,  and  cannot 
fail  to  be  well  patronized,  especially  now  that  the 
Dayton  and  Michigan  Kailroad  is  completed,  which 
will  bring  a  large  amount  of  both  freight  and  pas 
senger  traffic  by  way  of  Detroit  that  formerly  sought 
other  routes. 
28* 


330  Old  Mackinaw. 

The  rolling  stock  now  on  the  road  consists  of 
ninty-eight  engines,  seventy  first  class  passenger  cars, 
twelve  second  class  cars ;  twenty-nine  baggage  cars, 
and  two  thousand  seven  hundred  and  seventy-eight 
freight  cars,  making  a  total  of  two  thousand  eight 
hundred  and  eighty-nine  cars  and  all  of  which  were 
built  in  the  company's  own  shops. 

This  road  is  one  hundred  and  eighty -eight  miles 
long,  and  has  been  in  operation  throughout  its  whole 
extent  since  November,  1858.  It  is  deserving  of  the 
distinctive  appellation  of  the  Back  Bone  Road  of 
Michigan,  having  been  of  incalculable  value  in  deve 
loping  the  resources  of  the  region  through  which  it  is 
located,  decidely  one  of  the  richest  and 'most  import 
ant  in  the  West.  The  principal  towns  and  cities 
upon  its  line  are  Pontiac,  Fentonville,  St.  Johns, 
Ionia,  Grand  Rapids  and  Grand  Haven.  The  growth 
of  these  places  has  received  a  great  impetus  since  its 
completion,  while  numerous  villages  have  also  sprung 
into  being  as  if  by  magic  at  various  points  along  the 
line.  These  changes  are  plainly  visible  in  the  im 
proved  trade  of  our  city,  and  the  increase  from  the 
same  cause,  must  continue  to  be  strongly  marked. 
Last  season  over  one-fourth  of  the  wheat  and  wool  re 
ceived  here  was  by  this  new  route,  and  a  number  of 


Old  Mackinaw.  331 

vessels  loaded  at  the  company's  noble  and  spacious 
wharf  for  European  ports  direct. 

Within  the  year  past,  the  company  have  com 
pleted  one  of  the  finest  railway  wharves  in  the  world. 
It  is  1,500  feet  long  by  90  broad,  the  west  end  of 
which  is  occupied  by  the  freight  house,  the  dimen 
sions  of  which  are  450  by  132  feet. 

One  of  the  most  important  events  to  Detroit 
and  the  entire  West,  that  has  transpired  for  many 
years,  is  the  completion  of  this  great  thoroughfare. 
The  link  from  Port  Huron  to  this  city  was  opened 
to  traffic  on  the  21st  of  November,  since  which  date 
the  businesss  crowding  upon  it  has  fully  equaled 
its  capacity.  It  is  the  Minerva  of  railways,  having 
reached  at  a  single  bound  a  condition  of  prosperity 
outrivaling  many  of  the  oldest  established  roads  on 
the  continent. 

It  possesses  important  advantages  over  any  other 
road  both  for  freight  and  passenger  traffic.  Being  of 
uniform  guage,  no  change  of  cars  will  be  necessary 
from  Sarnia  to  Portland ;  and  being  also  under  the 
management  of  one  corporation,  it  affords  better 
facilities  for  the  protection  of  passengers  and  the 
preservation  of  their  baggage  than  where  they  are 
required  to  pass  over  lines  under  the  control  of  dif 
ferent  and  perhaps  conflicting  corporations.  Having 


332  Old  Mackinaw. 

only  one  set  of  officers  quartered  upon  its  ex 
chequer,  it  can  afford  to  do  business  at  lower  pro 
portionate  rates,  than  a  number  of  shorter  lines,  each 
having  a  different  set  to  salary,  while  the  delay  and 
vexation  which  not  unfrequently  arise  from  short 
routes,  being  compelled  to  wait  upon  each  other's 
movements,  will  all  be  avoided,  which  is  certainly 
no  small  consideration  both. to  passengers  and  ship 
pers. 

The  harbor  of  Portland  is  one  of  the  finest  and 
most  eligible  in  the  world,  and  our  immediate  con 
nection  with  a  point  of  such  importance  is  of  itself 
a  matter  deserving  particular  mention.  Portland 
district,  as  appears  by  the  official  statement  of  the 
tonnage  of  the  United  States,  made  to  June,  1857, 
then  owned  145,242  tons  of  shipping,  being  the 
ninth  port  in  the  Union  in  point  of  tonnage ;  she  is 
very  largely  interested  in  the  West  India  trade,  her 
annual  imports  of  molasses  exceeding  those  of  any 
port  in  the  United  States.  She  offers,  therefore,  to 
the  Western  States,  peculiar  facilities  for  procur 
ing  at  a  cheap  rate  the  products  of  the  West  Indies. 
The  harbor  is  without  any  bar,  and  so  easy  of  ac 
cess  that  no  pilots  are  required,  and  strangers,  with 
the  sailing  directions  given  in  the  American  Coast 
Pilot,  have  brought  their  ships  into  it  with  safety. 


Old  Mackinaw.  333 

There  are  no  port  charges,  harbor  dues,  or  light 
house  fees,  excepting  the  official  custom  house  fees. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Kail  way  is  likely  to  become  the 
avenue  through  which  an  immense  tide  of  immigra 
tion  will  pour  into  Michigan.  It  will  be  a  favorite 
route  for  emigrants,  who  will  thus  avoid  the  rascally 
impositions  of  the  swindlers  and  Peter  Funks  of 
New  York,  who  have  given  that  city  an  unenviable 
notoriety  throughout  the  world.  It  is  predicted  that 
more  immigrants  will  hereafter  come  by  the  new 
route  than  by  all  others  put  together.  There  is 
no  valid  reason  why  this  prediction  should  not 
prove  strictly  true.  This  is  therefore  a  matter  likely 
to  be  of  vast  importance  to  our  State,  with  a  large 
share  of  her  territory  as  yet  an  unbroken  wild,  offer 
ing  tempting  inducements  to  the  hardy  settler. 

The  completion  of  this  stupendous  bond  of  con 
nection  between  the  Eastern  and  Western  States, 
Canada  and  Europe,  will  render  markets  available 
which  were  before  difficult  of  access,  and  enable  far- 
distant  countries  to  exchange  their  products  at  all 
seasons.  The  Grand  Trunk  may  be  called  the  first 
section  of  the  PACIFIC  RAILROAD,  as  it  already 
communicates  with  the  Mississippi  through  Michi 
gan,  Illinois  and  Wisconsin  Railroads,  and  we  ex 
pect  to  see  the  line  completed  from  the  Mississippi 


334  Old  Mackinaw. 

to  California.  It  is  not  easy  to  form  an  estimate  of 
the  amount  of  traffic  and  intercourse  that  the  1,150 
miles  of  Grand  Trunk  Railway  will  bring  to  Michi 
gan  and  the  neighboring  States.  A  junction  has 
been  already  formed  with  that  model  of  western 
lines  the  Michigan  Central  by  which  freight  and 
passengers  reach  Chicago  and  the  numerous  lines 
which  diverge  from  that  great  commercial  city.  It 
is  probable  that  another  junction  will  be  made  with 
the  Detroit  and  Milwaukee  Railway  by  means  of  a 
branch  from  Port  Huron  to  Owasso.  In  this  case 
there  will  be  a  direct  line  across  Michigan  connect 
ing  with  the  Milwaukee  railroads  by  the  ferry  across 
the  lake,  and  penetrating  into  Iowa,  Minnesota,  Ne 
braska,  and  Oregon  by  lines  which  have  not  yet 
been  traced  on  the  railway  maps  of  the  United 
States. 

The  ostensible  western  terminus  of  this  road  is 
at  Windsor,  opposite  our  city,  but  it  is  practically 
as  much  a  Detroit  road  as  any  that  can  be  named. 
The  connections  with  the  other  routes  centering  here 
is  made  by  a  number  of  ferry  boats  of  the  most 
staunch  and  powerful  description.  The  receipts  by 
this  route  of  general  merchandise  consigned  to  the 
cities  and  points  westward  of  us  is  immense,  and  it 
enjoys  a  large  and  growing  local  traffic 


Old  Mackinaw.  335 

The  main  line  of  the  Southern  Michigan  and 
Northern  Indiana  Railroad,  which  taps  a  rich  and 
important  portion  of  Michigan,  is  461  miles  in 
length.  The  business  on  this  line  has  recently  shown 
a  decided  improvement. 

The  D.  and  T.  Road,  which  is  65  miles  in  length, 
was  opened  to  traffic  in  January  1857.  It  was  built 
by  the  '•  Detroit,  Monroe,  and  Toledo  Eailroad  Com 
pany,"  who  leased  it  to  the  Michigan  Southern  Koad. 
It  is  now  an  important  link  in  the  great  railway 
system  extending  from  the  East  to  the  Great  South 
west,  of  which  system,  Detroit,  from  its  favorable 
position,  has  become  the  centre  and  soul.  Since  the 
opening  of  the  Grand  Trunk,  in  November,  a  large 
amount  of  freight  has  passed  through,  billed  for 
Liverpool  direct,  a  species  of  freight  which  must 
steadily  increase. 

L.  P.  Knight  is  agent  at  Detroit.  The  office  is  in 
the  depot  building  of  the  Detroit  and  Milwaukee 
Railway. 

The  Dayton  and  Michigan  Eailroad  was  completed 
last  fall,  placing  us  within  a  few  hours'  ride  of  the 
Queen  City  of  the  West.  This  is  justly  regarded 
as  a  most  important  route  to  our  city,  and  will  de 
velop  new  features  to  some  of  our  leading  business 
interests.  The  consumer  of  our  State  will  have  the 


Old  Mackinaw. 

benefit  of  lower  prices  for  the  products  of  Kentucky, 
Tennessee,  Louisiana,  and  the  "West  Indies.  The 
want  of  direct  communication  between  Detroit  and 
New  Orleans  has  long  been  felt.  Sugars  and  mo 
lasses  can  now  be  laid  down  here  for  fifty  cents  per 
100  Ibs.,  including  all  charges  from  New  Orleans, 
via  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio  Rivers,  and  D.  and  M. 
Railway,  giving  us,  in  a  word,  the  benefits  of  as 
low  freights  in  winter  as  in  summer.  With  the  cost 
of  transportation  thus  reduced  to  a  merely  nominal 
standard,  prices  of  Southern  products  will  be  upon 
an  average  no  higher  here  than  in  Louisville.  It  is 
more  than  probable,  nay,  quite  certain,  that  the  ad 
vantages  which  must  ultimately  accrue  to  the  State 
from  our  connection  with  Cincinnati  per  se,  if  not  so 
general,  will  be  even  more  marked  and  important 
than  those  to  which  we  have  above  referred.  The 
prices  of  provisions  will  be  equalized,  giving  our 
lumbermen  and  miners  the  benefit  of  reduced  rates 
throughout  most  of  the  year,  and  when  speculation 
is  rampant,  and  the  price  of  pork,  the  great  staple 
of  our  neighbors,  reaches  an  extreme  figure — as  has 
been  the  case  for  two  successive  seasons,  and  will  be 
the  case  again — our  farmers  will  reap  the  benefit  of 
the  movement.  The  growth  of  Cincinnati  is  alto 
gether  without  parallel  in  the  world,  taking  into  ac- 


Old  Mackinaw.  337 

count  the  character  of  that  growth — its  quality,  so  to 
speak.  All  its  great  interests,  particularly  its  manu 
factures,  have  kept  pace  with  its  numerical  increase. 
It  is  indeed  difficult  to  determine  whether  manufac 
tures  or  commerce  is  most  intimately  identified  with 
its  prosperity.  The  connection  with  her  will  give 
us  new  and  desirable  customers  for  some  of  our  sur 
plus  products,  particularly  our  choice  lumber. 

The  entire  line  of  the  Flint  and  Pere  Marquette 
Railroad,  as  located,  is  172J  miles;  track  laid  and 
completed.  7|-  miles ;  additional  length  graded  24  J 
miles,  the  ties  for  which  have  all  been  delivered. 

It  is  thought  that  hereafter  twenty  miles  per  year 
will  be  completed  without  difficulty  until  the  whole 
is  completed.  This  road  will  be  important  in  de 
veloping  the  resources  of  a  very  rich  tract  of  coun 
try. 

On  the  line  of  Amboy,  Lansing,  and  Grand  Tra 
verse  Railroad,  the  entire  distance  from  Owasso  to 
Lansing,  twenty-six  miles,  is  ready  for  the  iron,  ex 
cept  three  miles.  On  the  division  from  Lansing  to 
to  Albion,  thirty-six  miles,  the  work  of  grading  and 
furnishing  ties  is  progressing,  and  some  one  hundred 
men  at  work.  Between  Owasso  and  Saginaw,  thirty- 
three  miles,  arrangements  are  nearly  completed  to 
start  the  work.  The  work  of  grading  and  prepar- 
29 


338  Old    Mackinaw. 

ing  for  the  iron  is  done  by  local  subscriptions,  of 
which  $3,000  per  mile  has  been  subscribed  and  is 
being  paid. 

The  existence  of  copper  on  the  shores  of  Lake 
Superior  appears  to  have  been  known  to  the  earliest 
travelers,  but  it  has  been  only  a  few  years  since  it 
has  entered  largely  into  Western  commerce.  But 
the  country  had  long  been  a  favorite  resort  for  fur 
traders,  and  as  long  ago  as  1809,  and  perhaps  still 
further  back,  the  Northwest  Company  (British) 
owned  vessels  on  Lake  Superior.  This  organization 
was  at  that  period  the  great  trading  company  of  the 
region  in  question,  the  operations  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  being  confined  chiefly  to  the  region 
further  north.  At  the  period  of  which  we  speak, 
the  bulk  of  the  trading  was  done  by  means  of  birch 
canoes,  some  of  them  large  enough  to  carry  two  or 
three  tons.  With  these,  the  traders  passed  up  to 
the  Indian  settlements  in  the  fall,  with  goods,  provi 
sions,  and  trinkets,  usually  returning  to  the  trading- 
posts  during  the  month  of  June  with  the  furs  which 
they  had  procured  in  exchange.  Mackinac  and  the 
Saut  were  trading  posts  at  an  early  day.  At  a 
somewhat  later  period,  the  Northwest  Company  had 
an  agency  on  an  island  in  Lake  Huron,  not  far  from 
the  mouth  of  Saut  river.  The  formation  of  the 


339  Old  Mackinaw. 

American  Fur  Company  was  of  more  recent  date, 
that  company  dating  its  origin  during  the  war  of 
1812,  or  soon  after. 

Prior  to  the  building  of  the  ganal,  a  number  of 
steamers  had  been  taken  over  the  portage  to  Lake 
Superior,  but  so  far  as  our  knowledge  extends, 
only  one  or  two  craft  larger  than  a  canoe  were  ever 
taken  over  the  rapids,  one  of  which  was  the  schooner 
Mink.  She  was  built  of  red  cedar,  on  Lake  Su 
perior,  about  the  year  1816,  and  was  of  some  forty 
tons  burden.  She  became  the  property  of  Mack  & 
Conant,  who  had  her  brought  down  the  rapids.  In 
making  the  descent  she  suffered  some  injury  by 
striking  against  a  rock,  but,  notwithstanding  this 
mishap,  she  lived  long  enough  to  ride  out  many  a 
stormy  sea,  running  for  several  years  in  the  trade 
between  Buffalo  and  the  City  of  the  Straits.  Shu- 
bael  Conant,  Esq.,  at  this  day  an  honored  citizen  of 
Detroit,  was  one  of  the  firm  that  purchased  the 
Mink. 

In  the  spring  of  1845,  the  fleet  on  Lake  Superior 
consisted  of  the  schooner  White  Fish,  belonging  to 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the  Siscowit,  belonging 
to  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  the  Algonquin, 
owned  by  a  Mr.  Mendenhall.  The  same  year  the 
schooners  Napoleon.  Swallow,  Uncle  Tom,  Mer- 


340  Old  Mackinaw. 

chant,  Chippewa,  Ocean,  and  Fur  Trader,  were  all 
added.  In  1845,  the  propeller  Independence,  the  first 
steamer  that  ever  floated  on  Lake  Superior,  was  taken 
across  the  portage,  and  the  next  year  the  Julia  Palmer 
followed  her,  she  being  the  first  side-wheel  steamer. 
In  the  winter  of  1848-9,  the  schooner  Napoleon  was 
converted  into  a  propeller.  In  1850,  the  propeller 
Manhattan  was  hauled  over  by  the  Messrs.  Turner, 
and  the  Monticello  in  1851,  by  Col.  McKnight.  The 
latter  was  lost  the  same  fall,  and  Col.  McK.  supplied 
her  place  the  next  winter  with  the  Baltimore.  In  1853 
or  1854,  E.  B.  Ward  took  over  the  Sam  Ward,  and 
Col.  McKnight  took  the  propeller  Peninsula  over 
in  the  winter  of  1852  or  1853. 

In  the  spring  of  1855,  the  Saut  Canal  was  com 
pleted,  since  which  date  the  trade  with  that  important 
region  has  rapidly  grown  into  commanding  impor 
tance.  It  will  be  seen  by  the  table  below  that  the 
importations  of  machinery,  provisions,  supplies,  and 
merchandise,  for  the  past  year  amounted  to  $5,298,- 
640,  while  the  exports  of  copper,  iron,  fur  and  fish 
amount  to  $3,071,069. 

The  following  are  the  names  of  the  steam  craft 
now  regularly  employed  in  this  trade  : 

S.  B.  Illinois.  Prop.  Mineral  Eock. 

S.  B.  Lady  Elgin.  Prop.  Montgomery. 


Old   Mackinaw.  341 

S.  B.  North  Star.  Prop.  Northern  Light. 

Prop.  Marquette.  Prop.  Iron  City. 

A  number  of  other  steam-craft  made  occasional 
trips  last  year,  and  next  season  it  is  expected  that 
another  line  will  be  placed  on  the  route  permanently. 
The  Detroit  shipping-office  has  published  the  names 
of  ninety-six  sail  vessels  that  have  been  engaged  in 
the  iron  trade  the  past  year. 

Rapid  as  this  trade  has  increased,  it  is  destined,  no 
doubt,  to  yet  undergo  a  still  greater  transformation. 
The  latent  resources  of  the  Upper  Peninsula  are  of  a 
character  and  magnitude  that  defy  all  estimates  of 
their  future  greatness.  With  regard  to  the  import 
ance  of  the  trade  to  our  city,  and  the  steps  to  be 
taken  to  retain  it,  ample  comments  have  already  ap 
peared  in  the  Tribune,  both  editorially  and  in  the  form 
of  communications,  to  which  we  can  add  nothing. 

The  aggregate  amount  of  tolls  collected  in  May, 
July,  August  and  September,  was  $10,374.18,  a  large 
increase  over  the  corresponding  months  last  year. 
Including  the  probable  amount  for  the  months  not 
reported,  and  we  have  at  the  lowest  not  less  proba 
bly  than  $16,000,  as  the  tolls  for  1859. 

Number  of  passengers  :  May,  2,493  ;  June,  1,764; 
July,,  2,116;  August,  2,617;  September,  1,538;  Oc 
tober,  1,015. 
29* 


342  Old   Mackinaw. 

It  is  noiv  almost  universally  admitted  that  the 
State  of  Michigan  possesses  in  her  soil  and  timber 
the  material  source  of  immense  wealth.  "While  in 
years  past  it  has  been  difficult  to  obtain  satisfactory 
information  concerning  the  real  condition  and  na 
tural  resources  of  a  large  portion  of  the  surface  of  the 
Lower  Peninsula,  the  re-survey  of  portions  of  the 
government  land,  the  exploration  of  the  country  by 
parties  in  search  of  pine,  the  developments  made  by 
the  exploring  and  surveying  parties  along  the  lines 
of  the  Land  Grant  Eailroads,  and  the  more  recent 
examinations  by  the  different  commissions  for  lay 
ing  out  the  several  State  roads  under  the  Acts  passed 
by  the  last  Legislature,  have  removed  every  doubt 
in  reference  to  the  subject.  The  universal  testimony 
from  all  the  sources  above  mentioned,  seems  to  be  that 
in  all  the  natural  elements  of  wealth  the  whole  of 
the  northern  part  of  the  Peninsula  abounds. 

The  pine  lands  of  the  State,  which  are  a  reliable 
source  of  present  and  future  wealth,  are  so  located 
and  distributed  as  to  bring  almost  every  portion  of 
the  State,  sooner  or  later  in  connection  with  the 
commerce  of  the  lakes.  The  pine  timber  of  Michi 
gan  is  generally  interspersed  with  other  varieties  of 
timber,  such  as  beech,  maple,  white-ash,  oak,  cherry, 
etc.,  and  in  most  cases  the  soil  is  suited  to  agricul 


Old  Mackinaw.  343 

tural  purposes.  This  is  particularly  the  case  on  the 
western  slope  of  the  Peninsula,  on  the  waters  of 
Lake  Michigan  and  along  the  central  portion  of  the 
State.  On  the  east  and  near  Lake  Huron,  the  pine 
districts  are  more  extensively  covered  with  pine 
timber,  and  generally  not  so  desirable  for  farming 
purposes.  There  are  good  farming  lands,  however, 
all  along  the  coast  of  Lake  Huron  and  extending 
back  into  the  interior. 

A  large  proportion  of  the  pine  lands  of  the  State 
are  in  the  hands  of  the  Canal  Company,  and  indivi 
duals  who  are  holding  them  as  an  investment,  and  it 
is  no  detriment  to  this  great  interest,  that  the  whole 
State  has  been  thus  explored  and  the  choicest  of  the 
lands  secured.  The  developments  which  have  thus 
been  made  of  the  quality  and  extent  of  the  pine  dis 
tricts,  have  given  stability  and  confidence  to  the 
lumbering  interest,  And  these  lands  are  not  held 
at  exorbitant  prices,  but  are  sold  upon  fair  and  rea 
sonable  terms,  such  as  practical  business  men  and 
lumber  men  will  not  usually  object  to. 

It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  almost  every  stream 
of  water  in  the  State,  north  of  Grand  Eiver,  pene 
trates  a  district  of  pine  lands,  and  the  mouths  of 
nearly  all  these  streams  are  already  occupied  witi 
lumbering  establishments  of  greater  or  less  magni 


344  Old  Mackinaw 

tude.  Those  lumber  colonies  are  the  pioneers,  and 
generally  attract  around  them  others  who  engage  in 
agriculture,  and  thus  almost  impreceptibly  the  agri 
cultural  interests  of  the  State  are  spreading  and  deve 
loping  in  every  direction.  The  want  of  suitable 
means  of  access  alone  prevents  the  rapid  settlement 
of  large  and  fertile  districts  of  our  State,  which  are  not 
unknown  to  the  more  enterprising  and  persevering 
pioneers,  who  have  led  the  way  through  the  wilder 
ness,  and  are  now  engaged  almost  single-handed  in 
their  labors,  not  shrinking  from  the  privations  and 
sufferings  which  are  sure  to  surround  these  first  settle 
ments  in  our  new  districts. 

The  Grand  Traverse  region,  with  its  excellent  soil, 
comparatively  mild  climate,  and  abundance  of  tim 
ber  of  every  description,  is  attracting  much  attention, 
and  extensive  settlements  have  already  commenced 
in  many  localities  in  that  region.  The  coast  of  Lake 
Michigan,  from  Grand  Eiver  north,  for  upward  of 
one  hundred  miles  to  Manistee  Eiver,  presents  gene 
rally  a  barren,  sandy  appearance,  the  sand  hills  of 
that  coast  almost  invariably  shutting  out  from  the 
view  the  surrounding  country. 

North  of  the  Manistee,  however,  this  characteristic 
of  the  coast  changes,  and  the  hard  timber  comes  out 
to  the  lake  and  presents  a  fine  region  of  country  ex- 


Old  Mackinaw. 

tending  from  Lake  Michigan  to  Grand  Traverse  Bay 
and  beyond,  embracing  the  head  waters  of  the  Man- 
istee  River.  This  large  tract  of  agricultural  land  is 
one  of  the  richest  portions  of  the  State,  and  having 
throughout  its  whole  extent  extensive  groves  of 
excellent  pine  timber  interspersed,  it  is  one  of  the 
most  desirable  portions  of  the  Peninsula.  Grand 
Traverse  Bay,  the  Manistee  and  the  River  Aux 
Bees  Scies  are  the  outlets  for  the  pine  timber,  and 
afford  ample  means  of  communication  between  the 
interior  and  the  lake  for  such  purposes.  The  pro 
posed  State  roads  will,  if  built,  do  much  toward 
the  settlement  of  this  region. 

A  natural  harbor,  which  is  being  improved  by 
private  enterprise,  is  found  at  the  mouth  of  the  River 
Aux  Bees  Scies,  and  a  new  settlement  and  town  has 
been  started  at  this  point.  This  is  a  natural  outlet 
for  a  consideration  portion  of  the  region  just  de 
scribed. 

The  lands  here,  as  in  other  localities  in  the  new 
portions  of  the  State,  are  such  as  must  induce  a  rapid 
settlement  whenever  the  means  of  communication 
shall  be  opened. 

The  valley  of  the  Muskegon  embraces  every  variety 
of  soil  and  timber,  and  is  one  of  the  most  attractive 
portions  of  the  Peninsula.  The  pine  lands  upon  this 


346  Old  Mackinaw. 

river  are  scattered  all  along  the  valley  in  groups  or 
tracts  containing  several  thousand  acres  each,  inter 
spersed  with  bard  timber  and  surrounded  by  fine 
agricultural  lands. 

The  Pere  Marquette  Eiver  and  White  Eiver,  large 
streams  emptying  into  Lake  Michigan,  pass  through 
a  region  possessing  much  the  same  characteristics. 
This  whole  region  is  underlaid  with  lime  rocks,  a 
rich  soil,  well  watered  with  living  springs,  resembling 
in  many  features  the  Grand  River  Valley.  Beds  of 
gypsum  have  been  discovered  on  the  head  waters  of 
the  Pere  Marquette. 

The  unsettled  counties  in  the  northern  portion  of 
the  State,  the  northern  portion  of  Montcalm  and 
Gratiot,  Isabella,  Gladwin,  Clare  and  a  portion  of 
Midland,  are  not  inferior  to  any  other  portion.  There 
is  a  magnificent  body  of  pine  stretching  from  the 
head  of  Flat  Eiver  in  Moncalm  county  to  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Tettibiwassee,  and  growing  upon  a  fine 
soil  well  adapted  to  agriculture. 

This  embraces  a  portion  of  the  Saginaw  Valley, 
and  covers  the  high  ground  dividing  the  waters  of 
Lakes  Huron  and  Michigan.  The  eastern  slope  of 
the  Peninsula  embraces  a  variety  of  soil  and  timber 
somewhat  different  in  its  general  features  from  other 
portions  of  the  State.  The  pine  lands  of  this  region 


Old  Mackinaw  347 

are  near  the  coast  of  the  lake,  and  lie  in  large  tracts 
but  with  good  agricultural  land  adjoining.  There  are 
in  the  Lower  Peninsula,  in  round  numbers,  about 
24,000,000  acres  of  land. 

Taking  Houghton  Lake,  near  the  centre  of  the 
State,  as  a  point  of  view,  the  general  surface  may  be 
comprehended  as  follows:  The  Muskegon  Valley 
to  the  southwest  following  the  Muskegon  Kiver  in 
its  course  to  lake  Michigan.  The  western  slope  of 
the  Peninsula  directly  west,  embracing  the  pine  and 
agriculture  districts  along  the  valleys  of  several 
large  streams  emptying  into  Lake  Michigan.  The 
large  and  beautiful  region  to  the  northwest  embrac 
ing  the  valley  of  the  Manistee  and  the  undulating- 
lands  around  the  Grand  Traverse  Bay.  Northward, 
the  region  embraces  the  head- waters  of  the  Manistee 
and  Au  Sauble,  with  the  large  tracts  of  excellent 
pine  in  that  locality,  and  beyond,  the  agricultural 
region  extending  to  Little  Traverse  Bay  and  the 
Straights  of  Mackinaw.  To  the  northeast,  the  val 
ley  of  the  Au  Sauble,  and  the  pine  region  of  Thun 
der  Bay.  To  the  east,  the  pine  and  hard  timber  ex 
tending  to  Saginaw  Bay.  To  the  southeast,  the 
Saginaw  Valley  ;  and  to  the  south,  the  high  lands 
before  described  in  the  central  counties. 

That  portion  of  the  State  south  of  Saginaw  and 


348  Old  Mackinaw. 

the  Grand  Eiver  Valley  is  so  well  known  that  a  de 
scription  here  would  be  unnecessary. 

Thus  we  have  yet  undeveloped  over  half  the  sur 
face  of  this  Peninsula,  embracing,  certainly,  12,000,- 
000  to  15,000,000  of  acres,  possessing  stores  of  wealth 
in  the  timber  upon  its  surface,  reserving  soil  for  the 
benefit  of  those,  who,  as  the  means  of  communica 
tion  are  opened,  will  come  in  and  possess  it,  and 
thus  introduce  industry  and  prosperity  into  our 
waste  places. 

We  have  not  the  figures  at  hand,  but  it  is  proba 
ble  that  at  least  one- tenth  of  the  area  north  of  the 
Grand  River  is  embraced  in  the  pine  region.  The 
swamp  lands  granted  to  the  State  will  probably  cover 
nearly  double  the  area  of  the  pine  lands  proper 
The  remainder  for  the  most  part  is  covered  with  a 
magnificent  growth  of  hard  timber  suited  to  the  neces 
sities  of  our  growing  population  and  commerce. 

The  statistics  herein  furnished  will  give  some  idea 
of  the  importance  and  value  of  the  lumber  traffic  in 
this  States.  The  trade  in  pine  timber,  lumber, 
shingles  and  other  varieties  of  lumber,  with  the  traf 
fic  in  staves  form  one  of  the  most  important  branches 
of  manufacture  and  commerce  in  our  own  State,  and 
this  trade  alone  is  now  accomplishing  more  for  the 


349  Old  Mackinaw. 

development  and  settlement  of  the  country  than  all 
other  causes  in  operation. 

The  lumber  manufactories  in  Detroit  and  its 
suburbs  are  eleven  in  number.  The  following  are 
the  names  of  the  proprietors  and  the  amount  cut  last 
year  by  each : 

FT.  LUMBER.  PCS.  LATH. 

H.  A.  &  S.  G.  Wight 6,500,000        2,220,000 

Samuel  Pills 3,500,000  482,000 

-  Moffat  (est) 1,500,000 

H.  B.  Benson 3,254,029 

W.  Warner  &  Co., 194,370 

Brooks  &  Adams 3,800,000 

Baughman,  Hubbard  &  Co 3,378,080         1,043,300 

Kibbee,  Fox  &  Co 3,000,000  800,000 

N.  Reeve 800,000  20,0000 

Davis  &  David 2,000,000 

Copeland 1,000,000 

Total 29,426,479       4,745,300 

The  aggregate  of  capital  employed  by  these  mills 
is  $1,440,000.  The  above  amount  is  no  criterion  of 
their  capacity.  The  same  mills  cut  46,000,000  feet 
in  1856,  and  nearly  the  same  in  1857,  and  their  pro* 
bable  capacity  is  54,000,000.  Warner  &  Co.,  run 
their  mill  ODly  about  five  weeks  last  year,  and  are 
now  about  retiring  from  business.  One  of  the  others 
sustained  a  temporary  loss  of  business  by  fire.  The 
product  will  in  the  aggregate  be  doubled  next  season. 
The  logs  sawed  in  Detroit  are  procured  from  St. 
30 


350  Old  Mackinaw. 

Clair  Kiver,  Black  Kiver,  Mill  Creek  and,  Belle 
Eiver.  As  a  large  share  of  that  sold  here  has  been 
on  contract,  there  has  been  no  great  fluctuation  in  the 
market  at  this  point.  On  the  first  of  July  the  rates 
by  the  cargo  were  $25a$26  for  clear  and  $19a20  for 
second  clear  ;  on  the  first  of  October,  $24  for  clear, 
and  $18  for  second  clear. 

Last  winter  and  spring  were  very  unfavorable  for 
lumbering.  Owing  to  the  small  quantity  of  snow, 
but  few  logs  were  got  out,  and  many  of  them  being 
on  small  streams,  owing  to  the  failure  of  the  usual 
spring  freshets,  were  not  sawed,  so  that  upon  the 
whole  the  mills  of  the  State  turned  out  only  about 
half  the  amount  of  their  capacity. 

The  market  opened  in  the  spring  with  flattering 
prospects.  Buyers  from  a  number  of  important 
points  in  the  Eastern  States,  previously  deriving 
their  supplies  from  Maine,  visited  our  State,  anxious 
to  secure  contracts  for  choice  lumber,  and  the  opin 
ion  prevailed  that  the  demand  would  exceed  the 
supply.  The  prospect  encouraged  manufacturers  to 
make  unwonted  exertions  in  turning  out  all  the 
stock  that  could  be  rendered  available,  which  in 
volved  increased  expense.  In  some  places,  as  was 
the  case  at  Saginaw,  a  very  large  amount  was 
got  out  in  the  early  part  of  the  summer.  About 


Old  Mackinaw.  351 

the  close  of  June,  the  market  experienced  a  sudden 
and  unlooked-for  depression,  after  which  prices 
tended  speedily  downward,  falling  to  such  a  low  point 
before  the  close  of  the  season  that  manufacturers  on 
the  west  coast  generally  suspended  their  shipments. 
Those  on  the  east  coast  continued  to  ship,  but  their 
shipments  to  a  very  great  extent  still  remain  unsold. 
We  are  cognizant  of  7,000,000  feet  held  in  that  way 
by  only  four  manufacturers. 

The  accounts  this  winter  are  very  favorable,  but 
the  idea  that  obtains,  fixing  the  amount  at  a  very 
high  figure,  is  vague  and  erroneous.  The  true  state 
of  the  case  is,  that  manufactures,  as  a  general  thing, 
in  view  of  the  depressed  condition  of  the  trade,  have 
been  making  calculations  to  do  a  light  business,  and 
got  out  their  logs  sooner  than  they  expected,  and 
will  on  the  whole  do  rather  more  than  they  had 
anticipated,  having  gone  into  the  woods  lighthanded. 
The  most  experienced  judges  concur  in  fixing  the 
amount  of  logs  got  out  this  winter  on  River  St.  Clair, 
at  Port  Huron  and  Saginaw  Bay,  but  not  including 
the  rivers  above,  at  175,000,000  feet.  In  the  Sagi- 
naws,  it  is  ascertained  that  about  100,000,000  will 
be  got  out.  Taking  the  entire  east  coast,  it  is  thought 
the  logs  this  winter  would  exceed  those  of  last  by 
fifteen  to  twenty  per  cent. 


352  Old  Mackinaw. 

By  Custom  House  statements  of  shipments,  added 
to  actual  receipts  at  one  of  the  receiving  points — 
Chicago — it  will  be  seen  below  that  for  1859  a  little 
over  269,000,000  feet  is  the  amount  of  shipments  ar 
rived  at.  These  figures,  taken  in  connection  with  the 
estimates  of  those  competent  to  judge,  render  it  cer 
tain  that  the  actual  amount  shipped  out  of  the  State 
did  not  vary  materially  from  400,000,000  feet.  There 
being  no  penalty  involved  in  the  failure  of  masters  of 
vessels  to  report,  there  is  great  carelessness  in  the 
matter.  The  Cleveland,  Toledo  and  Sandusky  ship 
ments,  are  at  the  outside,  not  more  than  half  reported. 
Those  reported  to  Buffalo,  Oswego  etc.,  are  a  little 
nearer  the  truth,  but  they  fall,  considerably  below 
the  mark. 

The  amount  made  in  1859,  did  not  vary  materially 
from  that  shipped.  In  the  district  embracing  the 
River  St.  Clair,  Port  Huron  and  the  Lake  Shore, 
6,000,000  feet  more  were  wintered  over  last  year 
than  this.  On  the  west  coast  it  was  different  gene 
rally,  so  that  the  variation  in  the  aggregate  cannot 
be  much  either  way.  The  capacity  of  the  mills  in 
the  pine  lumber  region  is  900,000,000  feet,  or  pos 
sibly  a  little  more. 

As  regards  the  amount  of  shingles  made,  even 
dealers  are  much  in  the  dark.  To  add  50  per  cent, 
to  the  Custom  House  returns  would  certainly  be 


Old  Mackinaw.  3^3 

within  bounds  for  the  eastern  coast.  This  would 
give  120,000,000  as  the  amount.  For  the  west  coast, 
if  we  take  the  amount  received  at  Chicago,  say  165,- 
000,000,  with  an  additional  twenty-five  per  cent, 
for  that  received  at  Milwaukee,  and  then  estimate 
that  two-thirds  of  the  whole  amount  were  from  the 
west  coast  of  Michigan,  which  is  doubtless  true,  we 
have  137,500,000  as  the  amount  shipped  by  the  coast, 
making  267,500,000  for  the  whole  State. 

The  improved  demand  for  staves  has  greatly 
stimulated  the  production,  and  in  localities  where  the 
production  of  pine  lumber  is  decreasing,  that  of  staves 
is  taking  its  place.  At  Saginaw  2,500,000  were  got 
out  last  year,  and  this  year  there  will  be  full  as  much, 
or  more.  The  greatest  activity  prevails,  and  dres 
sing  by  machine^  has  been  started.  At  Lakeport, 
Burchville,  Lexington,  Port  Sanilac,  Forester,  Point 
aux  Barque,  and  Foresterville,  850,000  were  got  out 
last  year ;  from  Port  Huron  and  St.  Clair  750,000. 
The  amount  turned  out  in  the  whole  State  could  not 
have  been  short  of  20,000,000. 

An  immense  amount  of  lath  were  turned  out.  A 
mill  that  can  turn  out  three  millions  of  lumber,  gene 
rally  makes  one  million  of  lath.  On  this  basis  about 
133,000,000  must  have  been  turned  out.  The  sup 
ply  generally  exceeds  the  demand. 
30* 


Mackinaw. 

The  lumber  on  the  east  coast  is  worth  at  the  mills 
$9  per  M. ;  that  on  the  west  coast  $7.  At  the  average 
of  $8,  the  amount  made  last  year  would  be  worth 
$3/200,000.  The  value  of  shingles  at  $2  per  M.,  was 
$515,000,  and  the  lath  at  $1  per  M.,  are  worth  $133- 
000. 

We  are  enabled  to  present  a  nearly  complete  list 
of  names  of  owners,  with  the  amount  of  capital  re 
spectively,  which  will  be  of  some  interest,  both  at 
home  and  abroad.  So  far  as  the  east  coast  is  con 
cerned,  the  figures  are  in  the  main  entirely  reliable, 
being  upon  the  authority  of  one  of  the  best  men  in 
the  State  who  knows  whereof  he  advises.  Those  for 
the  west  coast,  thought  not  perhaps  so  strictly  correct 
as  the  others,  will  as  a  general  thing  be  found  within 
bounds.  We  hope  the  statistics  will  prove  an  incen 
tive  to  lumbermen  to  be  more  particular  hereafter 
in  furnishing  information : 

BLACK    RIVER. 

Name.  Capital.          Name.  Capital. 

J.  &  J.  Bayard $15,000     Davis'  mill $  8,000 

Sweetser  &  Bayard...       7,000     R.  Wadham's  mills..   10,000 
Comstock  mill 7,000     

MILL     CREEK. 

Bunce's  mill 4,000    John  H.  Westbrook .     4,000 

L.  Brockway  2  mills 5,000 


Old  Mackinaw.  355 

PORT  HURON. 

Name.  Capital.          Name.  Capital. 

G.  S.  Lester 24,000  Avery 75,000 

Haynes  &  Baird 24,000  Bunce 24,000 

Eoward  &  Bachelor. .  15,000  Hibbard 40,000 

Fish,  two  mills 35,000  Black  Eiver  mill 35,000 

Welles 24,000 

LOCKPORT. 

Farrand 10,000 

BURCHVILLE. 

Woods,   two  mills.-...     30,000     John  S.  Minor 7,000 

LEXINGTON. 

Hubbard 8,000     Stevens  &  Davis ....    10,000 

Jenks  &  Co 20,000    Hitchcock  &  Co 30,000 

BARK  SHANTY. 

Oldfield 10,000 

FORESTER. 

Emely 50,000 

GIBRALTAR. 

Colin  Campbell 10,000 

ALGONAC. 

Daniels  &  Kipley 15,000     Smith 24,000 

NEWPORT. 

E.  B.  Ward 20,000    B.    S.  Horton 10,000 

Bust 10,000 

ST.  CLAIR. 

Moore  &  Scott 20,000  Oaks  &  Holland,  two 

W.  Truesdale  2  mills .  60,000        mills 40,000 

E.  Smith 15,000     St.  Clair 30,000 

Smith  &  Chamberlwr. .  5,000 


356  Old    Mackinaw. 

FORESTVILLE. 
Name,  Capital.         Name.  Capital. 

E.  B.  Ward 50,000     Breckinridge 2,000 

VICKSBURG, 

Williams  &  Mills,  three  mills 55,000 

CHEAOYGAN. 

Three  mills 100,000 

CHERRY  CREEK. 

Peninsular  Bank 15,000 

HURON  COUNTY. 

Luddington 12,000  Smith  &  Co 50.000 

Hubbard  &  Co 50,000  W.K.Stafford....     15,000 

Donahue 30,000  Ft  Austin  Company  100,000 

Armstrong  &  Co 10,000  Crawford  &  Co 10,000 

BAY  CITY. 

Clark,  Ball  ou  &  Co...  35,000  McEwing  &  Brother  30,000 

Moore  &  Smith 30,000  Bangor  mills 35,000 

Geo.  Lord  &  Co 24,000  Drake  mills 24,000 

Saml.  Pitts 30,000  Henry  Kaymond . . .  30,000 

Beeson  &  Wheeler. . .  24,000  Catlin  &  Jennison..  10,000 

Beebe  &  Atwood 10,000  Miller  &  Butterfield  14,000 

Henry  Doty 35,000  Frost  &  Bradley. ..  35,000 

PORTSMOUTH. 

J.  J.   McCormick 10,000     Partridge  mill 24,000 

Portsmouth  mill 15,000    H  D  Braddack  &  Co     14,000 

Budd's  mill 14,000     Watson  &  Southard     14,000 

ZILWAUKEE. 

J.  J.  Westervelt 35,000 

CARROLLTON. 

Name  Unknown. . ,  . .  35,000 


Old  Mackinaw. 


357 


EAST  SAGINAW. 

Name.                                     Capital.           Name.  Capital. 

Garrison  &  Co 24,000        Gushing  <fc  Co 36,000 

I.  Hill 20,000        L.B.Curtis 24,000 

Holland 10,000         Wm.  Gallagher. ..  14,000 

Copeland  &  Co 10,000         Atwater  mill 30,000 

SAGINAW  CITY. 

Y.A.Payne 30,000         G  D  Williams  &  Son  20,000 

Curtis  &  King 30,000         D.  Rust  &  Brother  50,000 

New  mill 20,000 

TITTIBIWASSEE,  PINE    RIVER  AND  SWAN  CREEK. 

Eight  mills 65,000 

CASS,  BAD,  AND    SHIAWASSEE  RIVERS. 

Seven    mills 50,000 

LAPEER 

D.  Farrer 8,000        N.  H.  Hart 21,000 

W.  Williams 15,000         Rogers  &  Jenness.  24,000 

Crofoot  &  Baldwin.. .   15,000         Smith  &  Jenness..  15,000 

Manwaring  &  Co 21,000         Smith 14,000 

Wm.  Peters 14,000         J.  B.  Wilson 14,000 

Thorp's  mill 14,000         James  Farrell 10,000 

H.  D.  Tomer 8,000        White  &  Peter. ..  10,000 

Lawrence  £  M' Arthur     7,000        W.  H.  Crapo 60,000 

Wm.  Peter 30,000        H.L.  Hemingway. .  6,000 

Sixteen  small  mills.. .   85,000 

PINE  RUN. 

McFarren , 20,000 

MONTROSE. 

Name  unknown 30,000 

ALPENA    AND  VICINITY. 

G.  N.  Fletcher  &  Co.     35,000     Smith  &  Chamberlain  15,000 

Lockwood  &  Miner. . .     25,000     D.  D.  Oliver 5,000 

Harris  &  Co 35,000    Whitmore  &  Co 25,000 


358  Old  Mackinaw 

SANILAC    COUNTY. 
Name.  Capital.        Name.  Capital. 

J.  L.  Woods  &  Co 5,000     Stevenson  &  Davis . . .   20,000 

Mason  &  Luce 17,500 

AU  SAUBLE  HIGHLANDS. 

Harris's  mill 24,000 

RIFLE  RIVER,  SAGANIN,  COQUALIN,  AND  SAND  BEACH. 

Six  mills 85,000 

TUSCOLA    COUNTY. 

A.  Watson 10,000  Edmunds  &  North . . .  14,000 

W.  A.  Hart 10,000  Richardson  &  Bro. . . .  14,000 

Perry 5,000  Holmes 5,000 

Others 30,000 

FLINT  AND  VICINITY. 

Eleven  mills 715,000 

There  are  also  others  on  the  east  slope  of  the 
lower  peninsula,  representing  a  capital  of  say — 
$120,000. 

Beyond  the  lower  peninsula,  there  are  some  very 
heavy  manufactories,  particularly  around  Green  Bay, 
(Michigan)  generally  estimated  at  $1,000,000,  but 
which  it  would  be  safe  to  put  at — $750,000. 

Total  capital,  including  Detroit,   -          $5,360,000 

WESTERN  SLOPE — OTTAWA  COUNTY. 
Name.  Capital,  Name.  Capital. 

Ferry  &  Co 50,000         Plugger  &  Nyn 24,000 

W.  M.  Ferry,  Jr 50,000         Howard  &  Co 14,000 

Joseph  Weld  &  Co....  30,000  Eyerson    &    Morris,  2 

T.  W.  White  &  Co. . .  50,000  mills 65,000 

Becker  &  Spoons 40,000  Chapin,  Marsh  &  Foss  50,000 

Richard  Roberts 24,000  Smith,  Forbes  &  Co. . .  35,000 

Jno.  Haire 24,000  Trowbridge,    Way    & 

E.  Jewitt 15,000  Son 65,000 


Old  Mackinaw. 


359 


Name.  Capital. 

J.  B.  Bailey 14,000 

Porter  &  Slyfield....  14,000 

C.  Davies  &  Co 50,000 

Durkee,    Truesdell    & 

Co 40,000 

George  Ruddmain 40,000 

Lewis  £  Davis 24,000 

Eldridge  &  Co 24,000 

Carletou  &  Co. ..24,000 

Ferry  &  Son 40,000 

Lind  &  Slater 50,000 

Young-,  Savedge  &  Co.30,000 

Amos  Norton 40,000 

Benj.  Smith 30,000 

Rhodes,  Cloyn  &  Co.. 24,000 

Hatch  &  Merritt 15,000 

C.Hart 10,000 


Name.  Capital. 

L.  G.  Mason  &  Co.... 35,000 

Beidler  &  Co 40,000 

Hears  &  Co 24,000 

Hill  &  Co 24,000 

Colgrove  &  Co 18,000 

Wm.   Thompson 14,000 

Harris  &  Co 8,000 

Jno.  Ford 8,000 

Denton  &  Co 14,000 

Carleton  &  Co 10,000 

Jos.  Dalton  &  Bro...  .10,000 

S.  Lawrence 12,000 

Edward  Dalton 8,000 

E.  W.  Merrill  &  Co...  14,000 

Reed  &  Co 10,000 

Brown  &  Grist 8,000 


KENT  COUNTY. 


Jennison  &  Bro 14,000 

W.  T.  Powers 2,000 

Seymour 24,000 

Gooch  &  Webber 5,000 

A.  McFarland 4,000 

Thos.    Myers 21,000 

George  Funck 8,000 

S.  Lapham 5,000 

A.  House 5,000 

Farrell  &  Sons 10,000 

J.  C.  Clements 15,000 

T.  Spencer 8,000 

Dewey  &  Co 14,000 


Reed  &  Plum- 5,000 

N.  H.  Withey 5,000 

Knickerbuck 4,000 

Robert  Konkle 10,000 

A.  Roberts  &  Son... 25,000 
White,  Worden  &  Co.  25,000 

C.  C.  Comstock 9,500 

D.  Porter 5,000 

Chase,  Harris  &  Co..   8,000 

C.  W.Taylor 6,000 

D.  Caswell 12,000 

Hubbard,     Hitchcock 

&Co 16,000 


NEWAYOO  COUNTY. 


Newaygo  Company. . .  80,000 
Name  unknown 24,000 


J.  M.  Wood,  2  mills.  .25,000 
James   Botchford 10,000 


360  Old  Mackinaw. 

Name.  Capital.  Name.  Capital. 

E.  P.  Mitchell 5,000        Amos  Bigelow, 4,000 

Weaver 3,000 

STONY  CREEK,  OCEANA  COUNTY. 

Campbell,  Wheeler  &  Co 25,000 

PERE  MARQUETTE,  BLACK  CREEK  AND  BIG  SAUBLE. 

C.  Hears  &  Co.,  3  mills 95,000 

SPRING  CREEK. 

Hopkins  &  Co 24,000 

MANISTEE. 

Coles 80,000        John  C.  Haines 55,000 

Me  Yicker  &Ingleman.24,000        John  Stranch 40,000 

One  near  Manistee. .  .24,000 

GRAND  TRAVERSE. 

Hanna,  Lay  &  Co 32,000         A.  S.  Wadsworth ....  15,000 

WHITE  RIVER. 

Amos  Eathbone 24,000 

MECOSTA. 

Leonard,  Ives,  &  Co 20,000 

MONTCALM  COUNTY. 

Bruce 10,000        E.  Gregory  &  Co 20,000 

Slaght 14,000 

LELANAW  COUN*TY. 

Averill  &  Son 2,000 

EEC  SCEE'S  RIVER. 

E.  Gardner 15,000        Name  unknown 2,000 

Chamberlin  &  Co 20,000        Harris  &  Co 10,000 

IONIA  COUNTY. 

Estimated  Aggregate 100,000 

All  others,  on  West  Slope,  estimated 350,000 

Capital  Western  Slope 2,669,500 

Total  Capital  of  State $8,029,5000 


Old  Mackinaw.  361 

An  intelligent  gentleman  who,  at  our  instance, 
visited  all  the  establishments  around  Saginaw,  and 
procured  statistics,  reports  the  amount  of  lumber 
manufactured  as  follows : 

Place.  No.  of  Mills.  Feet. 

Bay  City 11   20,000,000 

Portsmouth 4 5,000,000 

Zilwaukee 1   3,000,000 

Carrollton 1   2,800,000 

East  Saginaw 8  19,750,000 

Saginaw  City 4 14,000,000 

Bad  River 2   4,500,000 

Rafted  Lumber 4,000,000 


Total 73,050,000 

Valuation,  at  $8.50  per  M.  $620,925 

Of  the  above  lumber,  63,000,000  has  been  ship- 
ped ;  the  rest  is  now  on  the  docks. 

Shingles  manufactured  25,000,000  at    $2.50 $62,500 

Lath  5,000,000  at      1.00 5,000 

Oak  Staves     " 

and  shipped 2,000,000  at     30.00 60,000 

Add  Lumber 620,925 


Total $748,425 

The  supply  of  pine  in  some  few  localities  is  be 
coming  exhausted,  and  some  few  mills  have  ceased 
operating.  This  is  the  case  at  Lexington,  but  the 
machinery  and  capital  have  been  taken  elsewhere. 
At  the  present  ratio  of  consumption,  the  supply  of 
31 


362  Old  Mackinaw. 

pine  must  rapidly  become  diminished,  but  profitable 
employment  will  then  be  found  in  the  manufacture 
of  hemlock  and  hard-wood.  Some  little  has  already 
been  done  in  the  way  of  turning  out  hemlock.  The 
manufacture  of  hard-wood  lumber  is  increasing  very 
rapidly. 

The  copper  interest  of  Michigan  was  first  brought 
into  public  notice  by  the  enormous  speculations  and 
the  mad  fever  of  1845.  The  large  spur  of  country 
which  projects  far  out  into  the  lake,  having  its  base 
resting  on  a  line  drawn  across  from  L'Anse  Bay  to 
Ontonagon,  and  the  Porcupine  Mountains  for  its 
spine,  became  the  El  Dorado  of  all  copperdom  of 
that  day.  In  this  year  the  first  active  operations 
were  commenced  at  the  Cliff  Mine,  just  back  of 
Eagle  Eiver  harbor.  Three  years  later,  in  1848, 
work  was  undertaken  at  the  Minnesota,  some  fifteen 
miles  back  from  the  lake  at  Ontonagon. 

The  history  of  the  copper  mines  on  Lake  Superior 
shows  that  even  the  best  mines  disappointed  the 
owners  in  the  beginning.  "We  give  the  facts  relative 
to  the  three  mines  at  present  in  the  Lake  Superior 
region  to  illustrate  this.  The  Cliff  Mine  was  dis 
covered  in  1845,  and  worked  three  years  without 
much  sign  of  success ;  it  changed  hands  at  the  very 
moment  when  the  vein  was  opened  wliic-li  proved 


Old  Mackinaw.  363 

afterward  to  be  so  exceedingly  rich  in  copper  and 
silver,  producing  now  on  an  average  1,500  tons  of 
stamp,  barrel,  and  mass  copper  per  annum. 

The  Minnesota  Mine  was  discovered  in  1848,  and 
for  the  first  three  years  gave  no  very  encouraging 
results.  The  first  large  mass  of  native  copper  of 
about  seven  tons  was  found  in  a  pit  made  by  an  an 
cient  race.  After  that  discovery  much  money  was 
spent  before  any  other  further  indications  of  copper 
were  found.  This  mine  yields  now  about  2,000  tons 
of  copper  per  annum,  and  declared,  for  the  year  1858, 
a  net  dividend  of  §300,000.  The  dividends  paid 
since  1852  amount  to  upward  of  $1,500,000  on  a 
paid-up  capital  of  $66,000. 

The  same  has  been  experienced  at  the  Pewabic 
Mine.  That  mine  commenced  operations  in  the 
year  1855,  with  an  expenditure  of  $26,357,  which 
produced  $1,080  worth  of  copper ;  the  second  year 
it  expended  $40,820,  and  produced  $31,492  of  cop 
per  ;  in  1857  $24,484  of  expenses  produced  $44,058 
worth  of  copper ;  1858,  the  amount  expended  was 
§109,152,  and  the  receipts  for  copper  $76,538;  the 
total  expense  amounts  to  $235,816,  and  the  total  re 
ceipts  for  copper -to  $153,168,  leaving  an  excess  of 
expenses  amounting  to  §82,648,  which  is,  however, 


364  Old  Mackinaw. 

amply  covered  by  the  extensive  works  established 
above  and  below  ground  at  the  mine. 

The  Pewabic  will  undoubtedly  take  its  place 
among  the  dividend-paying  mines  of  the  present 
year. 

It  is  scarcely  ten  years  that  mining  has  been  prop 
erly  commenced  in  that  remote  region.  At  that  time 
it  was  difficult,  on  account  of  the  rapids  of  St.  Mary's 
River,  to  approach  it  by  water  with  large  craft.  Being 
more  than  a  thousand  miles  distant  from  the  centre 
of  the  Union,  destitute  of  all  the  requirements  for 
the  development  of  mines ;  every  tool,  every  part 
of  machinery,  every  mouthful  of  provisions  had  to 
be  hauled  over  the  rapids,  boated  along  the  shores 
for  hundreds  of  miles  to  the  copper  region,  and 
there  often  carried  on  the  back  of  man  and  beast  to 
the  place  where  copper  was  believed  to  exist.  Every 
stroke  of  the  pick  cost  tenfold  more  than  in  popu 
lated  districts ;  every  disaster  delayed  the  operations 
for  weeks  and  months. 

The  opening  of  the  Saut  Canal  has  changed  all 
this  and  added  a  wonderful  impetus  to  the  busi 
ness,  the  mining  interests,  and  the  development 
of  the  Lake  Superior  country.  Nearly  one  hundred 
different  vessels,  steam  and  sail,  have  been  engaged 
the  past  season  in  its  trade,  and  the  number  of 


Old  Mackinaw.  365 

these  is  destined  largely  to  increase  year  by  year, 
an  indication  of  the  growth  of  business  and  the 
opening  up  of  the  country.  For  the  growth  in  the 
copper  interest  we  have  only  to  refer  to  the  ship 
ments  from  that  region  year  by  year.  These,  in 
gross,  are  as  follows  : 

1853 2,535  tons. 

1854 3,500  " 

1855 4,544  " 

1856 5,357  " 

1857 6,094  " 

1858 6,025  " 

1859 6,245  " 

The  same  facts  of  development  would  hold  gener 
ally  true,  with  regard  to  the  other  industrial  interests 
of  that  vast  country. 

It  remains  yet  almost  wholly  "  a  waste,  howling 
wilderness."  At  Marquette,  Portage  Lake,  Copper 
Harbor,  Eagle  River,  Eagle  Harbor,  and  Ontonagon, 
and  the  mines  adjacent,  are  the  only  places  where 
the  primeval  forests  have  given  place  to  the  enter 
prise  of  man,  and  these  in  comparison  with  the 
whole  extent  of  territory  embraced  in  this  region, 
are  but  mere  insignificant  patches.  What  this  coun 
try  may  become  years  hence,  it  would  defy  all  spe 
culations  now  to  predict,  but  there  seems  no  reason 
31* 


366  Old  Mackinaw. 

to  doubt  that  it  will  exceed  the  most  sanguine  ex 
pectations. 

The  copper  region  is  divided  into  three  districts, 
viz.,  the  Ontonagon,  the  most  northern,  the  Kewee- 
naw  Point,  the  most  eastern,  and  the  Portage  Lake, 
lying  mostly  below  and  partially  between  the  range 
of  the  two.  In  the  first  are  situated  the  Minne 
sota,  the  Kockland,  the  National,  and  a  multitude 
of  other  mines  of  lesser  note,  profit,  or  promise.  In 
the  Cliff,  the  Copper  Falls,  and  others.  In  the  last 
are  the  Pewabic,  Quincy,  Isle  Koyale,  Portage, 
Franklin,  and  numerous  others.  Each  district  has 
some  peculiarities  of  product,  the  first  developing 
the  masses,  while  the  latter  are  more  prolific  in 
vein-rock,  the  copper  being  scattered  throughout  the 
rock. 

There  have  been  since  1845  no  less  than  116  cop 
per-mining  companies  organized  under  the  general 
law  of  our  State.  The  amount  of  capital  invested 
and  now  in  use,  or  which  has  been  paid  out  in  ex 
plorations  and  improvements,  and  lost,  is  estimated 
by  good  judges  at  $6,000,000.  The  nominal  amount 
of  capital  stock  invested  in  all  the  companies  which 
have  charters  would  reach  an  indefinite  number  of 
millions.  As  an  offset  to  this,  it  may  be  stated  that 
the  Cliff  and  Minnesota  mines  have  returned  over 


Old  Mackinaw.  367 

$2,000,000  in  dividends  from  the  beginning  of  their 
operations,  and  the  value  of  these  two  mines  will 
more  than  cover  the  whole  amount  spent  in  mining, 
and  for  all  the  extravagant  undertakings  which 
have  been  entered  upon  and  abandoned.  While 
success  has  been  the  exception  and  failure  the  rule 
in  copper  speculations,  yet  it  must  be  admitted  that 
these  exceptions  are  remarkably  tempting  ones. 
Doubtless  there  is  immense  wealth  still  to  be  devel 
oped  in  these  enterprises,  and  this  element  of  wealth 
in  the  Lake  Superior  region  is  yet  to  assume  a  mag 
nitude  now  unthought  of. 

The  copper  is  smelted  mainly  in  this  city,  Cleve 
land,  and  Boston,  the  works  in  this  city  being  the 
largest.  There  is  one  establishment  at  Pittsburg 
which  does  most  of  the  smelting  for  the  Cliff  Mine, 
we  believe ;  one  at  Bergen,  N.  Y.,  and  one  at  New 
Haven,  Conn.  There  are  two  at  Baltimore,  but 
they  are  engaged  on  South  American  Mineral.  The 
Bruce  Mines  on  the  Canada  side  of  Lake  Huron  have 
recently  put  smelting  works  in  operation  on  their 
location.  Prior  to  this  the  mineral  was  barreled  up 
and  shipped  to  London,  being  taken  over  as  ballast, 
in  packet  ships,  at  low  rates. 

The  amount  of  copper  smelted  in  this  city  we  can 
only  judge  by  the  amount  landed  here,  but  this  will 


368  Old  Mackinaw. 

afford  a  pretty  accurate  estimate.  The  number  of 
tons  landed  here,  in  1859;  was  3,088.  The  copper 
yield  of  Lake  Superior  will  produce  between  60  and 
70  per  cent,  of  ingot  copper,  which  is  remarkably 
pure.  The  net  product  of  the  mines  for  1859,  is 
worth  in  the  markets  of  the  world  nearly  or  quite 
§2,000,000.  This  large  total  shows  the  capabilities 
of  this  region  and  affords  us  some  basis  of  calculation 
as  to  the  value  and  probable  extent  of  future  deve 
lopment. 

Beside  the  amount  already  noticed  as  landed 
here  there  were  1,268  tons  brought  to  this  city  from 
the  Bruce  Mines,  and  sent  on  to  London.  The 
mineral  of  this  location  is  of  a  different  quality  from 
that  of  Lake  Superior  and  not  near  so  productive  of 
pure  copper.  The  price  of  ingot  copper  in  New 
York  the  past  season  has  arranged  from  20J  to  23J 
cents  per  pound,  averaging  full  22J  cents. 

There  are  indications  that  Michigan  is  slowly  but 
surely  taking  the  rank  to  which  she  is  entitled  in  the 
manufacture  as  well  as  production  of  iron.  The  first 
shipment  of  pig  iron  of  any  consequence  was  made  by 
the  Pioneer  Company  in  the  fall  of  1858.  Dr.  Rus 
sell,  of  this  city,  is  turning  out  large  quantities.  His 
works  went  into  operation  about  two  years  and  a 
half  ago,  but  were  burned  after  running  sixty  days. 


Old  Mackinaw.  369 

They  were  immediately  rebuilt  by  the  enterprising 
proprietor. 

The  Lake  Superior  iron  has  been  proclaimed  the 
best  in  the  world,  a  proposition  that  none  can  suc 
cessfully  refute.  Its  qualities  are  becoming  known 
in  quarters  where  it  would  naturally  be  expected  its 
superiorit}7-  would  be  admitted  reluctantly,  if  at  all. 
It  is  now  sent  to  New  York  and  Ohio,  and  even  to 
Pennsylvania — an  agency  for  its  sale  having  been 
established  in  Pittsburg.  For  gearing,  shafting, 
cranks,  flanges,  and,  we  ought  by  all  means,  to  add, 
car-wheels,  no  other  should  be  used,  provided  it  can 
be  obtained. 

A  large  amount  of  capital  is  invested  in  the  iron 
interest  in  Michigan,  as  the  following  figures  prove : 

Pioneer $150,000 

Jackson 300,000 

Collins 150,000 

Cleveland 300,000 

Lake  Superior  and  Iron  Mountain  R.  R.  Co....  700,000 

Northern  Michigan  Iron  Company 110,000 

Wyandotte  Rolling  Mills 236,000 

Eureka  Iron  Company 117,000 

Dr.  G.  B.  Russell's 60,000 

Ford  &  Philbrick's  Steam  Forge 25,000 

2,148,000 
Marquette  is  the   only  point  on   Lake  Superior 


370  Old  Mackinaw. 

where  the  iron  ore  deposits  have  been  worked. 
There  are  deposits  of  iron  in  the  mountains  back  of 
L'Anse,  but  this  wonderful  region  leaves  nothing 
more  to  be  desired  for  the  present.  At  a  distance 
of  eighteen  miles  from  the  lake,  are  to  be  found  iron 
mountains  named  the  Sharon,  Burt,  Lake  Superior, 
Cleveland,  Collins,  and  Barlow,  while  eight  miles 
further  back  lie  the  Ely  and  St.  Clair  mountains. 
Three  of  these  mountains  are  at  present  worked,  the 
Sharon,  the  Cleveland,  and  the  Lake  Superior,  and 
contain  enough  ore  to  supply  the  world  for  genera 
tions  to  come.  The  mountains  farther  back  embrace 
tracts  of  hundreds  of  acres  rising  to  a  height  of  from 
four  to  six  hundred  feet,  which,  there  is  every  reason 
to  believe,  from  the  explorations  made,  are  solid  iron 
ore.  The  extent  of  the  contents  of  these  mountains 
is  perfectly  fabulous,  in  fact,  so  enormous  as  almost 
to  baffle  computation.  The  ore,  too  is  remarkably 
rich,  yielding  about  seventy  per  cent,  of  pure  metal. 
There  are  now  in  operation  at  Marquette  three  Iron 
Mining  Companies,  and  two  blast  furnaces  for  mak 
ing  charcoal  pig  iron,  the  Pioneer  and  Meigs.  The 
Pioneer  has  two  stacks  and  a  capacity  of  twenty  tons 
of  pig  iron  per  day ;  the  Meig  sone  stack,  capable 
of  turning  out  about  eleven  tons.  The  Northern 
Iron  Company  is  building  a  large  bituminous  coal 


Old    Mackinaw.  37 1 

furnace  at  the  month  of  the  Chocolate  Kiver,  three 
miles  south  of  Marquette,  which  will  be  in  opera 
tion  early  in  the  summer. 

Each  of  the  mining  companies,  the  Jackson, 
Cleveland  and  Lake  Superior,  have  docks  at  the  har 
bor  for  shipment,  extending  out  into  the  spacious 
and  beautiful  bay  which  lies  in  front  of  Marquette 
to  a  sufficient  length  to  enable  vessels  of  the  largest 
dimension  to  lie  by  their  side  and  to  be  loaded 
directly  from  the  cars,  which  are  run  over  the  vessels 
and  dumped  into  shutes,  which  are  made  to  empty  di 
rectly  into  the  holds.  The  process  of  loading  is 
therefore  very  expeditious  and  easy. 

The  amount  of  shipments  of  ore  for  1859,  from 
Marquette  to  the  ports  below,  reaches  75,000  gross 
tons  in  round  numbers,  and  the  shipments  of  pig  iron, 
6,000  gross  tons  more.  To  this  must  be  added  the 
amount  at  Marquette  when  navigation  closed,  the 
amount  at  the  mines  ready  to  be  brought  down,  and 
the  amount  used  on  the  spot.  This  will  give  a  total 
product  of  the  iron  mines  of  Michigan  for  the  past 
year  of  between  ninety  and  one  hundred  thousand  tons. 
These  mining  companies  simply  mine  and  ship  the 
ore  and  sell  it.  Their  profit  ranges  between  seventy- 
five  cents  and  one  dollar  per  ton. 

The  quality  of  the  iron  of  Lake  Superior  is  COT?- 


372  Old  Mackinaw. 

ceded  by  all  to  be  the  best  in  the  world,  as  the 
analysis  of  Prof.  Johnson,  which  we  reproduce,  shows. 
The  table  shows  the  relative  strength  per  square  inch 
in  pounds. 

Salisbury,  Conn.,  iron 58,009 

Swedish  (best) 58,184 

English  cable 59,105 

Centre  county,  Pa 59,400 

Essex  county,  N.  Y., 59,962 

Lancaster  county,  Pa 58,661 

Russia  (best) 76,069 

Common  English  and  American 30,000 

Lake  Superior 89,582 

The  manufacture  of  pig  iron  at  Marquette  will 
probably  be  carried  on  even  more  extensively  as  the 
attention  of  capitalists  is  directed  to  it.  The  follow 
ing  may  be  considered  a  fair  statement  of  the  cost  of 
producing  one  ton  of  pig  iron  at  the  Pioneer  Iron 
Co.'s  works : 

1£  tons  iron  ore,  at  $1.50  per  ton $2  50 

125  bushels  charcoal  at  7  cents  per  bushel 8  75 

Fluxing 50 

Labor 2  50 

Incidental  expenses 1  00 

Cost  at  the  works 15  00 

Freight  on  R.  R.  and  dockage 137 


Cost  on  board  vessel $16  36 

The  quantity  of  wood  required  for  charcoal  for 


Old  Mackinaw.  373 

both  furnaces,  is  immense.  The  pioneer  furnace 
requires  2,500  bushels  of  coal  in  twenty -four  hours ; 
and  in  blast  as  they  are,  day  and  night,  for  six 
months,  and  at  a  yield  of  forty  bushels  of  coal  to  a 
cord  of  wood,  it  would  require  15,000  cords  of  wood 
to  keep  them  going.  The  company  has  had  120,000 
cords  chopped  this  season.  This  vast  consumption 
of  wood  will  soon  cause  the  country  to  be  completely 
stripped  of  its  timber.  Coal  will  then  come  into  use. 
The  business  of  manufacturing  pig  iron  may  be  ex 
tended  indefinitely,  as  the  material  is  without  limit, 
and  the  demand,  thus  far,  leaving  nothing  on  hand. 

These  facts  exhibit  the  untold  wealth  of  Michigan 
in  iron  alone,  and  point  with  certainty  to  an  extent 
of  business  that  will  add  millions  to  our  invested 
capital,  dot  our  State  with  iron  manufactories  of  all 
kinds,  and  furnish  regular  employment  to  tens  of 
thousands  of  our  citizens,  while  our  raw  material  and 
our  wares  shall  be  found  in  all  the  principal  markets 
of  the  world. 

The  superior  fish,  found  in  such  profusion  in  our 
noble  lakes  and  rivers,  while  they  afford  a  highly- 
prized  luxury  for  immediate  consumption,  from  one 
of  our  leading  articles  of  export,  and  are  very  justly 
regarded  as  constituting  one  of  our  greatest  interests. 

It  is  estimated  by  men  of  intelligence  that  the 
32 


374  Old  Mackinaw. 

value  of  our  yearly  catch  of  fish  is  greater  than  that 
of  all  taken  in  fresh  waters  in  the  thirty-two  remain 
ing  States  of  the  Union.  This  may  at  first  blush 
seem  like  a  broad  assertion,  but  it  is  no  doubt  strictly 
within  bounds.  If  the  claim  be  not  too  much  of  the 
nature  of  a  truism,  we  may  add  that  so  far  as  quality 
is  concerned  the  superiority  of  our  finny  tribes  is 
even  more  strongly  marked  than  in  regard  to  quan 
tity.  In  the  sluggish  streams  that  abound  in  "  ten 
degrees  of  more  effulgent  clime,"  the  fish  partake 
of  the  slimy  properties  of  their  native  element ;  it  is 
only  in  the  limpid  waters  of  the  North  that  they  are 
found  of  flavor  so  unexceptionable  as  to  please  an 
epicurean  taste,  or  exalt  them  to  the  dignity  of  a 
staple  of  commerce.  Fish  possess  peculiar  qualities 
to  commend  them  as  an  article  of  food,  independent 
of  the  arbitrary  preference  of  the  epicure.  They  are 
universally  esteemed  as  a  wholesome  and  nutritious 
diet.  In  that  pleasant  work,  living's  "  Astoria,"  a 
tribe  of  Indians  are  described  who  subsisted  entirely 
on  fish,  whose  rotund  appearance  contrasted  strongly 
with  the  physique  of  their  brethren  of  the  forest. 
The  profusion  with  which  the  finny  tribes  propagate 
their  species  is  a  peculiarity  said  to  be  imparted  to 
those  who  partake  freely  and  regularly  of  them  for 
food,  a  supposition  which  would  seem  to  be  strongly 


Old  Mackinaw.  375 

supported  by  facts.  Fishermen  are  proverbial  for 
the  number  of  their  descendants.  One  of  the  tribe 
who  dries  his  nets  in  Sarnia,  is  the  happy  father  of 
nineteen  children,  and  we  can  cite  numerous  proofs 
almost  equally  striking  in  support  of  this  theory. 

The  fisheries  have  always  been  a  leading  subject  in 
the  government  policy  of  sea-board  nations.  They  are 
a  prime  source  of  revenue,  and  have  been  the  cause  of 
numerous  wars.  The  serious  controversy  between 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  concerning  the 
Newfoundland  fisheries,  is  still  fresh  in  the  memory 
of  our  readers.  Recently  the  earnest  attention  of  the 
French  government  has  been  directed  to  propositions 
for  the  artificial  propagation  of  fish,  as  a  means  of 
affording  good  and  cheap  food  to  the  people  at  a 
merely  nominal  cost.  The  gradual  diminution  of 
the  species,  as  well  as  the  ultimate  extinction  of  the 
large  birds  and  quadrupeds,  is  everywhere  a  condi 
tion  of  advanced  civilization  and  the  increase  and 
spread  of  an  industrial  population.  To  provide  a 
remedy  for  the  evil,  the  science  of  pisciculture  has 
latterly  attracted  no  small  degree  of  attention,  and, 
at  this  time,  gentlemen  prominently  identified  with 
our  fishing  interest  have  it  in  contemplation  to  stock 
lakes  in  the  interior  of  Michigan  with  a  view  to  the 
prosecution  of  the  science. 


376  Old  Mackinaw. 

Most  of  the  fish  packed  on  Lake  Huron,  and  riv 
ers  St.  Glair  and  Detroit,  find  their  way  into  the  Ohio 
market.  The  trade  with  that  State  has  rapidly  in 
creased,  but  in  its  early  stages  it  had  some  difficul 
ties  to  contend  with,  to  one  of  which  we  will  briefly 
allude.  Some  twelve  or  fourteen  years  ago,  a  large 
quantity  of  fish,  not  less  than  8,000  to  10,000  barrels, 
which  had  been  caught  in  Lake  Superior,  were  in 
the  possession  of  a  single  dealer,  who  had  them 
stored  in  the  large  warehouse  recently  torn  down  at 
the  Detroit  and  Milwaukee  Eailway  depot.  He  had 
oportunities  to  dispose  of  them  at  $8  per  barrel,  but 
refused  to  sell  them  for  less  than  $10,  and  the  result 
was  that  they  were  kept  so  long  that  many  of  them 
spoiled.  They  were  complained  of  as  a  nuisance, 
and  1,500  barrels  were  turned  out  into  the  river  at 
one  time.  Part  of  the  lot  was,  however,  sent  to  Ohio, 
and  the  effect  was,  for  a  time,  extremely  prejudicial 
to  our  trade,  requiring  a  great  deal  of  explanation 
before  the  Cincinnati  dealers  could  be  again  induced 
to  stand  in  the  position  of  customers.  But  when 
confidence  once  more  became  fairly  restored,  the 
circumstance  seemed  to  have  the  effect  to  precipitate 
the  trade  between  the  two  cities.  At  least  it  grew 
rapidly  from  that  day,  our  neighbors  purchasing 
freely  of  our  staple  articles  and  sending  us  sugar  and 


Old  Mackinaw.  377 

molasses  in  return.  Thus,  as  in  Samson's  time,  honey 
was  gathered  from  the  carcass  of  the  dead  lion.  Ohio 
has  become  a  very  large  consumer  of  our  fish,  and 
her  influence  is  being  extended  rapidly  into  Indiana. 

The  habits  of  fish  are  as  interesting  as  anything 
in  the  animal  economy,  constituting  a  beautiful  study 
for  the  lover  of  nature ;  but  this  branch  does  not 
come  within  the  scope  of  our  article,  and  we  must 
content  ourselves  with  a  brief  description  of  the  prin 
cipal  varieties,  particularly  such  as  are  held  in 
highest  repute  for  packing,  with  such  statistics  as  we 
have  been  able  to  procure. 

White-fish  are  more  highly  prized  than  any  other 
kind  found  in  our  waters,  being  decidedly  the  most 
delicious  in  a  fresh  state,  and  when  packed  command 
a  higher  price  than  any  other  by  $1  per  bbl.  They 
are  found  in  the  Straits  and  all  the  Lakes.  They  spawn 
in  the  fall,  in  the  Straits,  and  in  shoals  and  on  reefs 
about  the  Lakes.  They  are  caught  in  seines,  gill 
nets,  trap  nets,  and  with  spears ;  never  with  hooks. 
Those  found  in  Detroit  river  come  up  from  Lake 
Erie  regularly  in  the  fall  to  deposit  their  spawn. 
They  were  found  in  our  lakes  and  rivers  in  vast  quan 
tities  when  the  white  men  first  visited  their  shores. 
They  constituted,  with  other  kinds,  the  principal 
food  of  the  white  and  Indian  voyagers  as  they  coasted 
82* 


378  Old  Mackinaw. 

around  the  lakes,  and  were  invaluable  to  the  first 
settlers  of  the  country,  who,  perhaps  in  some  cases, 
but  for  the  assistance  they  afforded,  would  have  been 
compelled  to  relinquish  their  settlements.  They 
could  catch  a  supply  at  any  time,  and  they  then  had 
an  unfailing  resort  when  their  crops  failed.  White- 
fish  were  a  great  favorite  with  the  Indians.  They 
would  give  many  times  their  weight  in  trout  or  any 
other  species  in  exchange  for  them.  It  is  said  that 
a  person  can  subsist  longer  upon  them  than  upon 
any  other  kind. 

Their  ordinary  weight  is  from  3  to  5  Ibs,  length  15 
inches,  though  some  have  been  caught  weighing  not 
less  than  18  Ibs.  They  are  a  beautiful  fish,  and 
when  first  taken  out  of  the  water  and  struggle  and 
flounder  in  the  sun,  they  exhibit  all  the  colors  of  the 
rainbow,  but  they  soon  expire,  and  when  dead  they 
are  of  a  delicate  white  color.  The  trout,  pike,  and 
muscalonge  devour  them  without  mercy.  Some  of 
these  voracious  kinds  have  been  caught  with  the  re 
mains  of  six  white-fish  in  them. 

The  Detroit  Eiver  white-fish  are  more  juicy  and 
better  flavored  than  those  caught  in  the  upper  lakes, 
probably  from  the  fact  that  they  feed  on  more 
delicate  food,  but  those  found  in  Lake  Superior  sur 
pass  all  others  in  size.  They  were  once  so  numer- 


Old  Mackinaw.  379 

ous  that  eight  thousand  were  taken  at  a  single  haul. 
At  present  a  haul  of  one  or  two  thousand  is  thought 
a  very  good  one.  In  all  the  rivers  they  are  growing 
scarce  very  gradually,  but  surely.  The  ratio  of  de 
crease  cannot  be  arrived  at  with  any  degree  of  pre 
cision.  A  few  years  ago  they  were  mostly  taken 
with  gill  nets,  and  when  they  fell  of  in  one  place,  a 
corresponding  increase  would  be  found  in  another. 
Now  they  are  taken  with  trap  nets  along  the  shore. 
The  trap  nets  are  a  decided  advantage  over  gill  nets. 
They  allow  the  fish  to  be  kept  alive,  and  they  are 
taken  out  at  leisure;  they  are  therefore  of  better 
quality. 

Pickerel  are  also  held  in  high  esteem.  They  are 
good  either  fresh,  or  salted  and  dried,  and  for  pack 
ing,  rank  next  in  value  to  white,  although  held 
nominally  at  the  same  price  as  trout  when  packed. 
They  generally  run  up  the  rivers  and  lakes  in  the 
spring  to  spawn,  where  they  are  caught  in  consider 
able  numbers.  Average  weight,  2  Ibs ;  large,  20  Ibs ; 
common  length,  15  inches. 

Lake  or  Mackinaw  trout  are  as  voracious  as  pike. 
They  are  chiefly  caught  on  Lake  Huron  with  gill 
nets  and  hooks.  Saginaw  Bay  appears  to  be  a 
favorite  resort  with  them.  Some  winters  large 
quantities  are  caught  in  the  Bay  through  the  ice, 


380  Old  Mackinaw. 

with  a  decoy  fish  and  spear.  They  spawn  in  the 
fall,  generally  in  the  bays  and  inlets.  Average 
weight  5  Ibs ;  large  751bs. 

Siscowits  are  mostly  found  in  Lake  Superior,  and 
are  preferred  by  some  to  any  other  kind.  They  are  of 
the  trout  family,  and  for  fat  are  unequaled ;  they  are 
mostly  taken  in  gill  nets.  They  spawn  in  the  fall, 
and  are  very  superior  for  packing.  They  are  also 
of  some  value  for  their  oil.  Common  weight  4 
pounds,  length  16  inches. 

Large  herrings  are  very  good  fish,  found  only  in 
the  straits  and  large  lakes.  They  spawn  in  the  fall ; 
but  few  are  caught.  Average  weight  If  pounds ; 
common  length  10  inches. 

In  addition  to  the  above  the  muskelonge— a  large 
and  delicious  variety — black  and  white  bass,  rock 
bass,  perch,  sturgeon,  and  at  least  twenty  other 
kinds,  abound  in  our  waters ;  a  minute  description 
of  which  we  are  compelled  to  forego.  White-fish 
are  taken  both  spring  and  fall,  chiefly  the  latter ; 
spring  is  the  season  for  pickerel ;  trout  are  taken  at 
all  seasons. 

Something  over  a  year  since  some  excitement  was 
occasioned  by  a  mode  of  fishing  adopted  by  a  party 
of  fishermen  on  Detroit  river,  who  stationed  nets  over 
a  mile  and  a  half  in  extent  across  the  mouth  of  the 


Old  Mackinaw.  381 

stream,  a  proceeding  that  was  not  only  calculated  to 
destroy  the  value  of  the  seine  fisheries  above,  but 
which  would  ultimately  have  driven  the  fish  oat  of 
the  river  altogether.  A  formidable  opposition  was  of 
course  arrayed  against  this  unusual  and  unwarrant 
able  proceeding,  and  the  party  found  it  expedient  to 
desist,  but  the  Legislature,  which  met  shortly  after, 
failed  to  pass  an  inhibitive  measure.  This  action,  or 
rather  want  of  action,  would  have  been  considered 
extraordinary  in  a  State  less  favored  by  nature. 

We  have  fortunately  been  able  to  procure  esti 
mates  of  the  amount  of  the  catch  at  all  the  various 
fisheries,  together  with  other  leading  statistics ;  and 
with  the  view  of  imparting  to  the  subject  a  more 
general  interest,  we  include  two  or  three  points  be 
yond  the  limits  of  the  State.  The  estimates  are 
furnished  by  gentlemen  of  intelligence  and  expe 
rience,  and  may  be  relied  on  as  substantially  cor 
rect  : 

Sandusky  fisheries,  catch  mostly  sold  fresh : 

Whitefish,  valuation $50,000 

Pickerel,  bass,  etc 40,000 

Value  of  seines  and  fixtures 16.000 

Paid  for  wages 37,000 

Maumee  Kiver,  pickerel,  white  bass,  etc.,  etc.,  mostly 
^old  fresh. 

^luation $50,000 


382  Old  Mackinaw. 

Seines  and  fixtures $15,000 

Paid  for  wages 12,000 

Maumee  Bay  and  Monroe  County,  Michigan,  white 
fish  and  pickerel : 

Valuation $20,000 

Pounds,  seines,  and  fixtures 9,000 

Paid  for  wages 10,000 

Detroit  River,  nearly  all  white : 

Valuation $75,000 

Seines,  fishing  grounds,  and  fixtures 40,000 

Paid  for  wages 20,000 

St.  Clair  River  and  Rapids,  mostly  pickerel : 

Valuation $11,000 

Cost  of  fixtures 2,000 

Paid  for  wages 1,200 

Port    Huron  to    Point   au   Barque,  3,000   barrels, 
mostly  white : 
Valuation $25,000 

Au  Sauble  6,000,  barrels,  j  white,  the  rest  trout : 

Valuation $50,000 

Boats,  nets,  etc 13,000 

Paid  for  wages 7,000 

Thunder   Bay  and   vicinity,   above   Sauble   River, 
6,000  barrels,  mostly  white  : 

Valuation $50,000 

Saginaw  Bay  and  River,  2,000  barrels  pickerel  and 
1,500  white  and  trout. 

Valuation $32,000 

Tawas,  600  barrels,  mostly  white. 

Valuation $5,000 


Old  Mackinaw.  383 

Between  Thunder  Bay  and  Mackinac,  500  barrels, 
mostly  white : 

Valuation $4,500 

Mackinac,  including  all  brought  there,  7,500  barrels, 
|  or  -J  white : 
Valuation $62,000 

Beaver   Islands   and   neighborhood,  7,000   barrels, 
nearly  all  white : 
Valuation $59,000 

Green  Bay  in  Michigan,  3,000  barrels,  all  white : 

Valuation $25,500 

Island  between  De  Tour  and  the  Saut,  1,000  barrels, 
§  white,  the  rest  trout : 
Valuation $8,000 

Green   Bay  in  Wisconsin,  2,500  barrels  white  and 

500  barrels  pickerel,  all  packed : 
Valuation $25,000 

Of  the  catch  of  Lake  Huron,  only  an  inconsider 
able  amount  are  sold  fresh.  On  Detroit  River  about 
4,000  barrels  were  packed  last  year. 

Having  procured  specific  information  of  the  cost 
of  outfit  and  amount  paid  for  wages  at  the  Sauble 
fisheries,  we  have  taken  such  expenditures  as  the 
basis  for  those  of  all  the  upper  lake  fisheries  in  pro 
portion  to  the  catch,  which  in  the  main  will  doubt 
less  prove  substantially  correct.  At  the  Sauble  last 


384  Old  Mackinaw. 

season  there  were  sixteen  boats  employed  for  two 
months,  and  eight  for  the  rest  of  the  season.  The 
value  of  the  boats  was  $200  each,  and  the  nets,  etc., 
cost  an  additional  sum  of  $600  for  each,  making  the 
aggregate  value  of  the  boats  and  their  outfit  about 
$13,000.  About  forty  men  were  employed  on  an 
average  during  the  season,  receiving  a  probable  ag 
gregate  of  $7,000  for  wages.  Taking  these  outlays, 
etc.,  as  a  fair  average,  and  we  have  the  following 
result : 

From  Port  Huron  to  the  Beavers,  inclusive,  to 
gether  with  Green  Bay  in  Michigan,  and  the  Saut 
Islands : 

Cost  of  outfit $83,500 

Amount  paid  for  wages 45,000 

Average  number  of  men 300 

The  amount  shipped  from  Lake  Superior,  as  ap 
pears  from  the  report  of  the  Superintendent  of  the 
Saut  canal  is  4,000  barrels.  This  is  probably  not  a 
tithe  of  what  might  be  done.  The  mouth  of  almost 
every  stream  in  that  region  affords  good  fishing 
grounds,  which  is  also  true  of  most  of  the  islands,  par 
ticularly  Isle  Royale,  where  the  siscowit  is  very 
abundant. 

The  fisheries  on  the  east  coast  of  Lake  Michigan 
have  for  about  six  years  past  increased  very  rapidly 


Old  Mackinaw.  385 

in  importance,  some  years  gaining  100  per  cent,  on 
the  year  preceding.  A  few  years  since  a  party  of 
Norwegians  came  on  and  embarked  in  the  business, 
which  they  have  prosecuted  ever  since  with  advan 
tage  and  profit.  Trained  in  the  severe  school  of 
their  rugged  northern  home,  they  exhibit  the  great 
est  daring,  going  out  in  their  tiny  craft  during  the 
heaviest  gales.  They  frequently  venture  out  twenty- 
five  miles  from  shore,  almost  meeting  their  country 
men  from  the  Wisconsin  side  of  the  lake,  who  are 
engaged  in  the  same  hazardous  calling.  We  have 
the  following  returns : 

Little  Traverse,  600  barrels  : 

Valuation $4,000 

300  nets  and  6  boats,  worth 1,800 

Paid  for  wages 575 

Big  Point  Sauble,  1,500  barrels : 

Valuation $12,000 

GOO  nets  and  8  boats 3,600 

Paid  for  wages 1,700 

Little  Point  Sauble,  2,000  barrels: 

Valuation $16,500 

750  nets  and  10  boats 4,500 

Paid  for  wages 2,000 

White  Lake,  1,500  barrels : 

Valuation $12,000 

500  nets  and  5  boats 3,000 

Paid  for  wages 1,600 

33 


386  Old  Mackinaw. 

Grand  Haven,  4,000  barrels : 

Valuation $32,800 

800  nets  and  8  boats 4,000 

Paid  for  wages 5,000 

Saugatuck,  2,000  barrels : 

Valuation $16,000 

600  nets  and  6  boats 3,600 

Paid  for  wages 2,500 

South  Haven,  2,100  barrels  : 

Valuation. . $16,800 

600  nets  and  6  boats 1,200 

Paid  for  wages 2,500 

St.  Joseph's  3,500  barrels  : 

Valuation $28,000 

1,200  nets  and  9  boats 7,500 

Paid  for  wages 

New  Buffalo,  300  barrels : 

Valuation $3,000 

400  nets  and  5  boats 2,600 

Paid  for  wages 450 

Michigan  City,  3,000  barrels: 

Valuation $30,000 

1,020  nets  and  18  boats 8,000 

Paid  for  wages 4,400 

Showing  an  aggregate  of  21,000  barrels,  of  which 
about  18,000 barrels  are  salted;  valuation  $169,800; 
value  of  fixtures  $43,600 ;  estimated  amount  paid  for 
wages,  $22,000. 

The  fishing  grounds  of  Michigan  City  are  almost 


Old  Mackinaw.  387 

entirely  within  our  State.  The  number  of  barrels 
include  those  sold  fresh  as  well  as  salted,  there  being 
a  considerable  quantity  of  the  former,  in  some  of  the 
fisheries  last  named,  Michigan  City  and  New  Buffalo 
especially,  from  whence  they  are  sent  packed  in  ice 
to  the  different  towns  in  Michigan ;  also  to  Lafayette 
and  Indianapolis,  Indiana,  to  Louisville,  Kentucky, 
to  Cincinnati,  and  also  to  Chicago,  where  they  are 
repacked  in  ice,  and  some  of  them  find  their  way  to 
St.  Louis,  Cairo,  etc.  From  St.  Joseph  and  Grand 
Haven  there  are  large  quantities  sent  fresh  to  Chi 
cago  and  Milwaukee,  where  they  are  repacked  in 
ice. 

At  a  fair  estimate  for  the  few  small  fisheries  on 
this  coast  from  which  we  have  no  return,  together 
with  those  on  the  west  coast  of  Lake  Michigan,  they 
are  worth  at  least  $60,000,  but  we  have  no  data  by 
which  to  form  an  estimate  of  the  proportion  packed. 

The  number  of  men  employed,  and  the  consequent 
expense,  varies  according  to  the  method  employed. 
With  seines  the  occupation  is  very  laborious,  and 
requires  a  much  stronger  force  than  pound  nets. 
One  set  of  hands  can  manage  a  number  of  the  latter. 
Some  of  the  fisheries  on  Detroit  and  St.  Clair  rivers 
use  seines  altogether,  to  draw  which,  horse-power  is 
brought  into  requisition  in  some  cases.  A  double 
27* 


388  Old  Mackinaw. 

set  of  men  are  employed,  working  alternately  day 
and  night,  and  the  exposure  is  a  most  disagree 
able  feature  of  the  business,  particularly  in  bad 
weather.  The  great  bulk  of  the  aggregate  catch 
continues  to  be  taken  with  seines  or  gill  nets,  but 
pound  (or  trap)  nets  are  on  the  increase.  They  have 
been  in  use  below  Lake  Huron  more  or  less  for  the 
past  four  or  five  years,  but  it  is  only  about  two 
years  since  their  introduction  in  the  upper  lakes. 
With  these  nets  100  barrels  of  white-fish  have  been 
taken  at  a  single  haul.  Of  course  their  general  use 
must  produce  a  material  diminution  in  the  supply. 

As  regards  capital  invested,  there  is  in  particular 
instances  a  wide  difference.  Greorge  Clark,  Esq., 
nine  miles  below  Detroit,  has  $12,000  invested  in 
his  grounds,  owing  mostly  to  the  cost  of  removing 
obstructions.  But  this  is  an  exception. 

The  barrels  for  packing  constitute  no  inconsider 
able  item  of  this  vast  and  important  trade.  Their 
manufacture  is  a  regular  branch  in  Port  Huron,  but 
most  of  them  are  made  by  the  fishermen  when  not 
engaged  in  their  regular  vocation.  They  are  made 
at  all  the  villages  and  fishing  stations  on  Lake 
Huron,  pine  being  generally  easy  of  access.  The 
barrels  are  worth  62  J-  cents  each ;  half- barrels,  50 
cents.  Over  two-thirds  of  the  packages  used  are 


Old  Mackinaw.  389 

halves,  but  our  estimated  totals  of  the  catch  repre 
sent  wholes. 

Formerly  the  nets  used  also  to  be  made  almost 
entirely  by  the  fishermen,  who  usually  procured  the 
twine  from  Detroit.  Latterly,  many  of  them  have 
been  brought  from  Boston  already  made. 

Salt  is  another  large  item.  For  packing  and  re 
packing,  about  one-fourth  of  a  barrel  is  used  to  each 
barrel  of  fish.  For  the  amount  packed,  therefore, 
in  the  fisheries  we  have  described,  about  20,000 
barrels  are  used. 

Total  proceeds  of  Michigan  fisheries $620,000 

Total  proceeds  of  all  enumerated 900,000 

Total  capital  invested 252,000 

Paid  for  wages 171,000 

Aggregate  of  barrels  salted,  say 80,000  bbls. 

Cost  of  packages 70,000 

Cost  of  salt 22,000 

The  catch  at  the  Sauble  and  Thunder  Bay  showed 
a  falling  off  last  season,  owing  not  to  the  want  of 
fish,  but  to  the  unfavorable  weather.  At  these 
points  they  congregate  only  from  October  to  the 
close,  and  the  weather  being  very  rough  last  fall, 
the  catch  was  comparatively  light. 

Mackinac  has  been  famous  as  the  greatest  fishing 
point  on  the  lakes.  Gill  nets  are  mostly  in  vogue. 
The  work  in  that  locality  is  mostly  done  by  half- 
33* 


390  Old  Mackinaw. 

breeds,  in  the  employ  of  the  merchants,  the  latter 
furnishes  the  salt,  and  paying  them  in  trade,  of 
which  the  outfit  generally  constitutes  a  part.  But 
with  the  late  general  depression,  prices  declined 
some  thirty  or  forty  per  cent.,  and  consequently  the 
business,  previously  quite  lucrative,  lost  its  attrac 
tion  for  the  time  being.  The  merchants  advanced  the 
means  in  summer,  and  could  not  realize  until  the 
ensuing  year.  Small  holders  were  obliged  to  sell, 
some  of  the  time  by  forcing  the  market,  and  this 
added  to  the  difficulty  experienced  by  large  holders 
in  obtaining  returns. 

Much  has  been  said  in  reference  to  the  coal  fields 
of  Michigan,  and  within  the  past  two  or  three  years, 
explorations,  with  a  view  of  developing  these  depo 
sits,  have  been  conducted  in  different  portions  of 
the  State.  There  is  no  longer  any  doubt  of  the  exist 
ence  of  a  valuable  field  of  coal  in  central  Michigan. 
There  have  been  openings  at  different  points  in  the 
State ;  at  Jackson  and  Sandstone,  in  Jackson  county ; 
at  Owasso  and  Corunna  in  Shiawassee  county;  at 
Flint  in  Genesee  county,  and  at  Lansing,  coal  has 
been  found  deposited  in  veins  of  from  twenty  inches 
to  four  feet  in  thickness.  Most  of  the  openings 
have  been  upon  veins  outcropping  at  the  surface  of 
the  ground,  and  there  has  been  little  difficulty  in 


Old  Mackinaw. 

procuring  samples  of  coal  from  these  veins  in  many 
localities  in  the  State.  These  deposits  of  coal  found 
at,  and  near  the  surface,  are  producing  coal  in 
limited  quantities  in  different  localities,  but  no 
works  have  been  prosecuted  with  a  view  to  supply 
ing  any  but  a  limited  local  demand.  From  the  sur 
face  evidences  of  a  coal  field  on  the  line  of  the  De 
troit  and  Milwaukee  Eoad  near  Owasso,  and  from 
explorations  and  developments  already  made,  some 
specimens  of  the  coal  having  been  produced  and 
shipped  to  Detroit,  it  has  been  determined  to  prose 
cute  the  work  at  that  point. 

In  Jackson  county,  however,  the  matter  of  mining 
has  become  an  enterprise  of  some  magnitude,  and 
we  are  enabled  to  give  some  facts  and  figures  which 
exhibit  in  some  measure  the  importance  to  the  State 
of  this  new  branch  of  industry.  There  are  several 
"  workings11  of  coal  in  the  vicinity  of  Jackson,  and 
several  companies  have  been  formed  for  the  purpose 
of  mining  coal.  Considerable  coal  has  been  mined  and 
sold  from  these  different  workings  and  mines.  The 
principal  mine,  and  one  which  in  all  its  arrange 
ments  and  provisions  is  equal  to  any  mine  in  the 
country,  is  that  of  the  Detroit  and  Jackson  Coal  and 
Mining  Company.  The  works  of  this  Company  are 
at  Woodville  station  on  the  line  of  the  Michigan 


392  Old  Mackinaw. 

Central  Railroad,  about  three  and  a  half  miles  west 
of  Jackson  city. 

The  mine  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Railroad  and  about  half  a  mile  from  the  main  track. 
The  Coal  Company  have  built  a  side  track  from  the 
Central  Road  to  the  mouth  of  their  shaft.  The 
shaft  from  which  the  coal  is  taken  is  ninety  feet 
deep,  and  at  the  bottom  passes  through  a  vein  of 
coal  about  four  feet  in  thickness.  This  vein  has 
been  opened  in  different  directions  for  several  hun 
dred  feet  from  the  shaft,  and  with  a  tram-road 
through  the  different  entries  the  coal  is  reached  and 
brought  from  the  rooms  to  the  shaft,  and  then  lifted 
by  steam  to  the  surface.  This  coal  has  been  trans 
ported  to  different  points  in  the  State  and  is  rapidly 
coming  into  use  for  all  ordinary  purposes,  taking 
the  place  of  many  of  the  Ohio  coals  and  at  a  re 
duced  cost.  The  mine  to  which  reference  is  made  is 
within  four  hours'  ride  of  Detroit,  on  the  Central 
Road,  and  a  visit  of  two  hours  (which  can  be  ac 
complished  any  day,  by  taking  the  morning  train, 
leaving  the  city  at  9  45  and  returning  so  as  to  reach 
here  at  half  past  six  in  the  evening,)  will  repay  any 
one  for  the  trouble.  The  station  is  called  "Wood- 
ville,  and  is  only  three  and  a  half  miles  west  of 
Jackson. 


Old  Mackinaw.  393 

Michigan,  hitherto  a  heavy  importer  of  salt,  is  in 
a  fair  way  not  only  to  have  amply  sufficient  for  her 
own  wants,  but  something  perhaps  to  spare.  To  aid 
in  developing  our  saline  resources,  the  Legislature 
wisely  provided  a  bounty  upon  the  production, 
which  has  already  brought  forth  good  fruits.  At 
Grand  Rapids,  salt  water  has  been  discovered 
much  stronger  than  that  of  the  Syracuse  springs, 
requiring  only  twenty-nine  gallons  to  produce  a 
bushel. — Arrangements  have  been  almost  perfected 
for  commencing  the  manufacture  upon  a  very  exten 
sive  scale. 

At  Saginaw,  within  a  few  days,  at  the  depth  of  620 
feet,  copious  volumes  of  brine  were  revealed.  This 
is  also  stronger  than  any  in  New  York.  From  some 
cause,  it  is  sought  to  keep  this  information  a  secret, 
but  it  is  fair  to  presume  it  would  soon  have  leaked 
out.  The  salt  both  at  Grand  Eapids  and  Saginaw, 
is  a  beautiful  article,  of  great  purity. 

When  Nature  formed  the  Grand  River  and  Sagi 
naw  valleys,  she  seems  to  have  been  engaged  in  an 
animated  contest  with  herself.  The  developments 
are  such  as  to  warrant  the  conviction  that  other  and 
perhaps  equally  valuable  salt  springs  lie  hidden  in 
the  intervening  space  between  those  valleys.  These 
and  other  discoveries  plainly  indicate  that  the  em- 


394  Old  Mackinaw. 

ployment  of  a  large  amount  of  capital  in  develop 
ing  the  latent  resources  of  Michigan  would  amply 
"  pay." 

The  inexhaustible  plaster  beds  of  Grand  Eapids 
constitute  one  of  the  prime  sources  of  prosperity  of 
that  enterprising  metropolis  of  the  Grand  Eiver 
Delta.  Our  whole  State  has  also  a  great  interest  in 
the  trade,  the  material  being,  it  is  admitted,  a  better 
fertilizer  than  the  imported  article. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Desirableness  of  a  trip  to  the  Lakes — Routes  of  travel — In 
teresting  localities — Scenery — Southern  coast — Portage  Lake 
— Dr.  Houghton  —  Ontonagon  —  Apostles'  Islands — Return 
trip — Points  of  interest — St.  Mary's  River — Lake  St.  George 
— Point  de  Tour  —  Lake  Michigan  —  Points  of  interest  — 
Chicago. 

A  trip  to  the  northern  lakes,  for  variety  and 
beauty  of  scenery  to  such  as  are  seeking  enjoyment 
and  pleasure,  possesses  advantages  over  every  other 
route  of  travel  in  the  United  States,  and  with  the  ex 
ception  of  the  works  of  art  and  the  classical  associa 
tions  of  the  old  world,  is  unsurpassed  by  any  on  the 
globe.  To  such  as  are  in  quest  of  health,  no  compari 
son  can  be  instituted,  as  it  has  been  demonstrated  that 
the  Northwest,  especially  in  the  region  of  the  lakes, 
possesses  the  most  invigorating  climate  in  the  world. 
A  reference  to  the  mortuary  tables  removes  all  doubt 
on  this  point.  In  the  town  of  Marquette,  on  Lake 
Superior,  containing  a  population  of  over  three 
thousand,  there  were  during  the  last  year  but  eight 

(395) 


Old  Mackinaw.  396 

deaths,  and  only  a  portion  of  that  number  was  from 
disease. 

Our  object  in  this  chapter  is  to  notice  the  various 
routes  of  travel  to  the  interesting  localities  in  the 
Northwest.  During  the  summer  months  the  most 
pleasant  mode  of  conveyance  is  by  water.  The 
Hudson  Kiver  boats,  compared  with  which  no  inland 
steamers  are  superior,  leave,  every  day,  the  foot  of 
Courtland  street  for  Albany.  By  taking  passage  on 
an  evening  boat,  after  a  quiet  night's  rest  the  traveler 
will  find  himself  at  Albany  the  next  morning,  where 
he  can  take  the  cars  for  Buffalo,  at  which  point  he 
will  be  able  to  take  a  steamer  for  Detroit.  From 
thence  he  can  take  a  steamer  for  Superior  City,  pas 
sing  through  Lakes  St.  Glair  and  Huron,  and  up  the 
Saut  St.  Mary  to  Lake  Superior.  On  the  route 
from  the  Saut  he  will  pass  the  following  points, 
Point  Iroquois,  White -Fish  Point,  Point  Au  Sable, 
Pictured  Kocks,  Grand  Island,  Marquette,  Manitou 
Island,  Copper  Harbor,  Eagle  Harbor,  Eagle  River, 
Ontonagon,  La  Point,  Bay  field  and  Point  De  Tour. 
The  usual  time  occupied  in  passing  over  this  route 
is  about  twenty-four  hours.  In  leaving  the  Saut 
above  the  Rapids  the  steamer  enters  Lequamenon, 
passing  Iroquois  Point  fifteen  miles  distant  on  the 
southern  shore,  while  Gros  Cap,  on  the  Canada  shore, 


Old  Mackinaw.  397 

can  be  seen  about  four  miles  distant.  The  porphyry 
hills,  of  which  this  point  is  composed,  rise  to  a  height 
of  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  lake,  and  present  a 
grand  appearance.  North  of  Gros  Cap  is  Gou- 
lais  Bay,  and  in  the  distance  a  bold  headland  named 
Goulais  Point  can  be  seen.  Indeed  the  whole  north 
shore  presents  a  scene  of  wild  grandeur.  Near  the 
middle  of  Lequamenon  Bay  is  Parisien  Island  which 
belongs  to  Canada ;  opposite  to  this  island  on  the  north 
is  seen  Croulee  Point,  an  interesting  locality  in  the 
vicinity  of  which  are  numerous  islands.  Still  further 
on  the  steamer  passes  Mamainse  Point,  another  bold 
headland  once  the  seat  of  the  works  of  the  Quebec 
Copper  Mining  Company,  but  now  abandoned  in  con 
sequence  of  their  unproductiveness  ;  some  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles  further  north,  is  located  the  Montreal 
Company's  copper  mine.  The  traveler  has  now 
fairly  entered  the  vast  mineral  region  of  Lake  Super 
ior,  and  passes  along  a  coast  hundreds  of  miles  in 
extent,  "  abounding  in  geological  phenomena,  varied 
mineral  wealth,  agates,  cornelian,  jasper,  opal,  and 
other  precious  stones,  with  its  rivers,  bays,  estuaries, 
islands,  presque  isles,  peninsulas,  capes,  pictured 
rocks,  transparent  waters,  leaping  cascades,  and  bold 
highlands,  lined  with  pure  veins  of  quartz,  spar  and 
amethystine  crystals,  full  to  repletion  with  mineral 


398  Old  Mackinaw. 

riches,  reflecting  in  gorgeous  majesty  the  sun's  bright 
rays,  and  the  moon's  mellow  blush ;  overtopped  with 
ever  verdant  groves  of  fir,  cedar,  and  mountain  ash, 
while  the  back  ground  is  filled  up  with  moutain  upon 
mountain,  until,  rising  in  majesty  to  the  clouds,  dis 
tance  loses  their  inequality  resting  against  the  clear 
vault  of  Heaven." 

On  the  southern  shore,  beyond  White  Fish  Point, 
immense  sand  hills  can  be  seen  rising  from  four  hun 
dred  to  one  thousand  feet  in  height.  After  passing 
Pictured  Eocks,  which  we  have  elsewhere  described, 
the  steamer  approaches  Grand  Island,  the  shores  of 
which  present  a  magnificent  appearance.  This 
island  is  about  one  hundred  twenty-five  miles  from 
the  Saut  and  is  about  ten  miles  long  and  five  wide.  It 
is  wild  and  romantic.  The  cliffs  of  sandstone  bro 
ken  into  by  the  waves  form  picturesque  caverns, 
pillars,  and  arches  of  great  dimensions.  Forty -five 
miles  further  is  the  town  of  Marquette  one  of  the 
most  flourishing  places  on  the  borders  of  the  lake, 
and  the  entrepot  of  the  vast  mineral  wealth  in  that 
region.  Near  this  place  are  the  Carp  and  Dead 
rivers,  both  which  have  rapids  and  falls  of  great 
beauty.  Sailing  in  a  northwestern  direction  the 
steamer  passes  Standards  Kock,  a  solitary  and  dan 
gerous  projection,  rising  out  of  the  lake  at  the  en- 


Old  Mackinaw. 


399 


trance  of  Keweenaw  Bay.  At  the  head  of  this  bay 
stands  the  harbor  of  L'Anse  a  short  distance  from 
which  are  located  a  Roman  Catholic  and  Methodist 
mission  house  and  church,  both  of  which,  on  each 
sides  of  the  bay  where  they  are  located,  are  sur 
rounded  by  Indian  tribes  and  settlements. 

Passing  along,  the  steamer  enters  Portage  Lake 
an  extensive  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water  extending 
nearly  the  entire  breadth  of  the  peninsula  of  Ke 
weenaw  Point,  which  is  a  large  extent  of  land  jut 
ting  out  into  Lake  Superior,  from  ten  to  twenty 
miles  wide'and  sixty  in  length.  This  whole  section 
abounds  in  silver  and  copper  ores.  After  passing 
Manitou  Island,  Copper  Harbor,  one  of  the  best  on 
the  lake  is  reached.  At  this  place  there  is  a  flourish 
ing  village.  The  next  points  are  Agate  Harbor, 
Eagle  Harbor,  and  Eagle  Eiver  Harbor.  It  was  at 
this  point  that  the  lamented  Dr.  Houghton  was 
drowned  in  October  1845.  He  was  the  State  Geo 
logist  of  Michigan,  and  while  coming  down  from  a 
portage  to  Copper  Harbor,  with  his  four  Indian  com 
panions  du  voyage,  the  boat  was  swamped  in  a  storm 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Eagle  River.  Two  of 
the  voyageurs  were  saved  by  being  thrown  by  the 
waves  upon  the  rocks  ten  feet  above  the  usual  level 
of  the  waters. 


4-OO  Old  Mackinaw. 

The  next  point,  three  hundred  and  thirty-six  miles 
from  the  Saut,  is  Ontonagon  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  a  river  of  the  same  name.  A  flourishing  town  is 
located  here  having  several  churches.  In  its  vicinity 
are  the  Minnesota,  Norwich,  National,  Rockland,  and 
several  other  copper  mines  of  great  productiveness ; 
silver  is  also  found  intermixed  with  the  copper  ore, 
which  abounds  in  great  masses.  La  Point,  four  hun 
dred  and  ten  miles  from  the  Saut  and  eighty-three 
from  Superior  City,  which  is  next  reached,  is  situated 
on  Madeline  Island,  one  of  the  group  of  the  Twelve 
Apostles.  It  was  settled  at  an  early  day  by  the 
Jesuit  Missionaries  and  the  American  Fur  Traders. 
The  population  is  mixed,  consisting  of  Indians, 
French,  Canadians  and  Americans.  It  has  long  been 
the  favorite  resort  of  the  "  red  man"  as  well  as  the 
"pale  face,"  and  possesses  a  historic  interest  to 
travelers.  The  adjacent  islands  of  the  Twelve  Apos 
tles  grouped  together  a  short  distance  from  the  main 
land,  present  during  the  summer  months  a  most 
lovely  and  beautiful  appearance.  Cliffs  from  one  to 
two  hundred  feet,  may  be  seen  rising  above  the  wa 
ters,  crowned  with  the  richest  foliage.  Passing  Rajr- 
field,  a  village  on  the  mainland,  and  Ashland,  a  set 
tlement  at  the  head  of  Chag-wamegon  Bay,  and  the 
Maskeg  and  Montreal  Rivers,  the  steamer,  after  round- 


Old  Mackinaw.  401 

ing  Point  de  Tour,  enters  Fon  du  Lac,  a  noble  bay 
at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior,  twenty  miles  in  width 
and  fifty  miles  in  length,  on  the  shore  of  which  stands 
Superior  City,  near  the  mouth  of  St.  Louis  Biver. 
This  is  a  flourishing  place,  possessing  great  com 
mercial  importance,  and  which,  at  no  distant  day, 
must  be  connected  with  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
River  and  Puget  Sound.  On  the  return  trip  coast 
ing  along  the  northwest,  the  steamer  passes  numer 
ous  points  of  interest.  At  the  extreme  west  end  of 
Lake  Superior,  seven  miles  northwest  from  Superior 
City,  stands  the  village  of  Portland.  Along  the  shore 
northward  are  bold  sandy  bluffs  and  highlands  which 
are  supposed  to  be  rich  in  mineral  wealth.  Encamp 
ment,  the  name  of  a  river,  island,  and  village,  is  a 
romantic  spot.  Immense  cliffs  of  greenstone  are  to 
be  seen  rising  from  two  hundred  to  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  water's  edge ;  northward  along  the 
shore  porphyry  abounds  in  great  quantity.  This 
point  is  noted  for  the  singular  agitation  of  the  mag 
netic  needle.  Hiawatha,  Grand  Portage,  Pigeon 
Bay,  Pie  Island,  Thunder  Cape,  and  Thunder  Bay, 
surrounded  by  grand  scenery ;  Isle  Roy  ale,  Fort 
William,  a  strong  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. 
Black  Bay,  Nepigon  Bay,  on  the  extreme  north 
of  the  lake.  St.  Ignace  Island,  State  Islands,  Pic 
34* 


Old  Mackinaw.  402 

Island  Michipicoten  Island,  formely  the  seat  of  Lake 
Superior  Silver  Mining  Company  of  Canada.  Mon 
treal  Island,  Carabon  Island  and  other  points  of  in 
terest. 

Re-entering  the  Saut  the  steamer  shapes  her 
course  for  Mackinaw.  The  Garden  River  settlement, 
an  Indian  village  ten  miles  below  the  Saut,  is  on  the 
Canada  shore.  A  mission  church  and  several 
dwellings  occupied  by  Chippewa  Indians  may  be 
found  here.  The  St.  Mary's  River  presents  the 
finest  scenery.  A  traveler  in  describing  it  says, 
"  There  is  a  delicious  freshness  in  the  countless  ever 
green  islands  that  dot  the  river  in  every  direction 
from  the  Falls  to  Lake  Huron."  The  next  point  is 
Church's  Landing  on  Sugar  Island,  opposite  to  which 
is  Squirrel  Island  belonging  to  the  Canadians.  Lake 
George  twenty  miles  below  the  Saut  is  an  expansion 
of  the  River  which  at  this  point  is  five  miles  wide. 
The  steamer  soon  enters  the  JSTebish  Rapids,  after 
passing  Lake  George,  and  the  main  land  of  Canada, 
stretching  out  to  the  north  in  a  dreary  wilderness,  is 
lost  sight  of.  Sugar  Island  which  is  a  large  body  of 
fertile  land  belonging  to  the  United  States,  near  the 
head  of  St.  Joseph's  Island  is  next  reached,  and  then 
in  succession,  Nebish  Island,  Mud  Lake,  another  ex 
pansion  of  the  river,  Lime  Island,  Carltonville,  St. 


Old  Mackinaw.  403 

Joseph's  Island,  a  large  and  fertile  body  of  land  belong 
ing  to  Canada,  once  the  site  of  a  fort ;  Drummond  Is 
land,  belonging  to  the  United  States,  and  Point  De 
Tour,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the  site  of  a  light 
house  and  settlement.  The  other  points  of  interest 
are  Eound  Island,  Bois  Blanc,  at  the  head  of  Lakes 
Huron  and  Mackinac,  all  of  which  we  have  else 
where  described.  At  east  the  steamer  enters 
the  Straits  of  Mackinaw,  and  the  site  of  the  old 
fort  and  town  heave  in  view.  These  straits  are  from 
four  to  twenty  miles  in  width,  and  extend  east  and 
west  about  twenty  miles. 

Lake  Michigan  now  spreads  out  its  beautiful  sheet 
of  water,  second  in  size  to  Superior,  and  invites  the 
traveler  to  sail  along  its  shores  and  among  its 
islands.  The  points  of  interest  are,  La  Gros  Cap,  a 
picturesque  headland;  Garden  and  Hog  Islands, 
Great  and  Little  Beaver  Islands,  Fox  Island,  on  the 
west  of  which  is  the  entrance  to  Green  Bay,  and  on 
the  east  the  entrance  to  Grand  Traverse  Bay,  the 
Great  or  north  Manitou,  and  the  Little  or  south 
Manitou  Islands,  Kewawnee,  Two  Eivers,  Manitoulin 
and  Sheboygan,  Port  Washington,  Milwaukee,  Ea- 
cine,  Waukegan  and  other  places  of  minor  import 
ance.  After  passing  the  localities  on  the  western 
shore,  at  length  Chicago  is  seen  in  the  distance, 


404  Old  Mackinaw. 

stretching  along  for  miles  and  presenting  a  fine  ap 
pearance.  From  this  point  the  traveler  can  return 
to  New  York,  by  way  of  Detroit,  through  Canada  on 
the  railroad,  or  he  may  if  he  chooses  take  a  southern 
route.  Such  are  the  facilities  for  travel  that  the 
tourist  will  be  at  no  loss  during  the  entire  season  in 
finding  excellent  steamers  and  good  accommodations. 
Steamers  of  the  first  class  leave  Cleveland  on  Mon 
days,  Tuesdays,  Thursdays  and  Fridays  of  each  week, 
for  Lake  Superior,  touching  at  the  various  ports  on 
the  route.  Persons  in  the  West  or  South,  who  may 
desire  to  visit  the  lakes  can  thus  be  at  any  time 
accommodated. 

Should  the  tourist  prefer  taking  another  route 
from  Buffalo,  instead  of  passing  over  Lake  Erie  and 
up  the  Detroit  Kiver,  he  can  go  direct  to  Colling- 
wood  at  the  foot  of  Georgian  Bay,  and  from  thence 
can  take  steamer  for  Saut  St.  Mary,  Chicago  or  any 
other  point  he  may  desire  in  the  Northwest. 


UN 

0 

THE   END. 


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